15/16th Inch Wheel Nut Socket

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I just bought what seemed the closes fit to either a Series 2 or a 2A rear set of wheel nuts. The closest size felt like a 15/16th of an Inch hex impact socket. Was my estimate an accurate estimated size for these vehicle's wheel nuts?

Were these size wheel nuts restricted to the Series 2 or 2A or did the earlier Series have 15/16 " wheel nuts as well?

Kind regards
Lionel

[cjc_td5]

I presume there was a change from BSF to UNF or Metric somewhere in there, but I don't know how or if the hex size changed...

[p38arover]

KLR says 15/16"

Double Chamfer Wheel Nut, Series 1, 2 and 2A – 217361 (https://klr.com.au/store/land-rover/series-land-rover/axles/double-chamfer-wheel-nut-series-1-2-and-2a/)


Double ended wheel nut for all Series 1, 2 and 2A models. Takes a 15/16” socket.

[Lionelgee]

KLR says 15/16"

Double Chamfer Wheel Nut, Series 1, 2 and 2A – 217361 (https://klr.com.au/store/land-rover/series-land-rover/axles/double-chamfer-wheel-nut-series-1-2-and-2a/)

Hello Ron,

You answered two questions with one link. I did pick the right size and the wheel nuts encompassed Series 1 all the way up to include Series 2A. Thank you.

Kind regards
Lionel

[AK83]

KLR says 15/16".....

But these guys say 59/64ths ...

single chamfer (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/19452)

double chamfer (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/19451)

ps. dunno anything about them if that 1/64ths (compared the 15/16ths) makes any difference, just found the info.

[B.S.F.]

.w.

[JDNSW]

The correct size is 9/16"BSF socket. Obtainable from your friendly OP shop or garage or clearing sale.

23mm works quite well!

The same wheel nuts (double sided 9/16"BSF) were used from 1948 to late Series 2a, when they were replaced by single sided nuts, still 9/16"BSF thread, but 27mm hex (these are very rare), replaced in turn on very late 2a by 16mm nuts with 27mm hex, which remained in use until the end of Landrover 90/110/130 production. These are the same as Rangerover classic and Disco 1. (Alloy wheels have different nuts, but I think the hex is the same)

[Killer]

But these guys say 59/64ths ...

single chamfer (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/19452)

double chamfer (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/19451)

ps. dunno anything about them if that 1/64ths (compared the 15/16ths) makes any difference, just found the info.

59/64" is the size of a 9/16 BS spanner. who would have thought that a 9/16 BSF nut would require a 9/16 BS spanner?

[p38arover]

The correct size is 9/16"BSF socket.

I'll let KLR know so they can amend their website.

[JDNSW]

I'll let KLR know so they can amend their website.

The spanner is usually labelled "9/16BSF-1/2W".

The standard spanner size for BSF is a size smaller than Whitworth, but note that during WW2, as a material saving wartime economy, nearly all Whitworth hexagons were made to BSF sizes, and this continued post war, so you will rarely find the larger Whitworth hexagons on either bolts or nuts, although you will sometimes find the larger size on square nuts - these continued being produced a lot longer.

The spanner sizes for Whitworth were originally designed to be optimum for fasteners made in wrought iron, with enough space from the fastener diameter so the corners of the (then always square) nut were not likely to be damaged by the torque. By the time BSF threads were specified, the tougher steel was a lot cheaper, and it was assumed that the fasteners would be made of steel, so they went down a size.

[p38arover]

The hex on a Joseph Whitworth bolt/nut is root 3 x diameter, i.e., 1.732 x diameter.

[B.S.F.]

I'll let KLR know so they can amend their website.

I've found that some replacement wheel nuts are not made to original specifications and an original 9/16" BSF socket or wheel brace wont fit. but a 24mm 0r 15/16" AF will.
.W.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

One of the many things that I am not trained as is my being a mechanical engineer. So, I am left wondering since the wheel nuts I want to take off have not been touched for possibly decades, it is going to take a substantial effort to loosen the nuts. Subsequently the risk of rounding the nuts off is high. I have used heat and lanolin penetrant and a long breaker bar. All to achieve a nil result. Since the nuts and I are a very similar vintage and they have been doing their job very effectively for a long time, I do not want to ruin them by lack of my preparation that can bring poor results around very quickly.

Could some more learned person confirm how much tolerance makes a sound fit within things like sockets for removing wheel nuts? Especially since it is going to need a lot of leverage effort to get the wheel nuts to even start to undo.

A quick online sourced conversion of 15/16 of an inch equals 23.8125 millimetres.

I did buy a 15/16 of an inch hex impact socket.

To be able to reduce the risk of rounding over the nuts while applying significant amounts of leverage - what is the best sized hex impact socket to buy?

Since I was never taught Imperial measurements at school - I can only say no wonder they went over to Metric!

Kind regards
Lionel

[V8Ian]

15/16th single hex should be fine. Do yo have an impact gun?

[JDNSW]

An impact driver is definitely the right tool. Far better than the breaker bar.

The risk with these is the stud turning in the hub. These studs screw into the hub and the inner end is hollow and the thin edge is peened over into a groove round the inside of the hub. The issue is that there is a very good chance that if the stud starts to turn, it will unscrew from the hub, with the peened over bit on inside destroying the thread in the hub as it comes out. When this is done, the hub is effectively unserviceable, although it is not uncommon to find hubs with one or more studs welded in place. Studs that press in, in the more conventional manner do exist, although I have not actually seen any. These would require the hole to be drilled out for fitting, and should have all studs replaced to preserve balance.

I would use heat, penetrating oil, and an impact driver to loosen the nuts. If unsuccessful, I would use a nut splitter to break the nut - replacing the nut is easier than replacing the stud and perhaps the hub. But repeated heat followed by penetrating oil and a rattle gun should work.

(And always keep the threads oiled and clean to avoid future problems - I use nickel based antiseize.)

Edit:- makes more sense with the missing word restored!

[Lionelgee]

15/16th single hex should be fine. Do yo have an impact gun?

Hello Ian,

Yes, I do have an impact gun. It laughed at my battery powered one. Therefore, I will be moving the vehicle closer to my air compressor so I can utilise my larger pneumatic impact gun.

Kind regards
Lionel

[oka374]

Just make sure the impact socket is single hex and a good snug fit on the nut before you attack it with a more powerful rattle gun.

[p38arover]

I suggest a flank drive socket, e.g., Metrinch, to avoid rounding off the corners of the nuts.

[gromit]

Subsequently the risk of rounding the nuts off is high.



As JDNSW mentioned, you're likely to get the stud to turn in the hub. This is much more likely than rounding off the nuts (unless the socket is the wrong size !)
Try some heat on the nut.
I usually heat with a blowtorch & add more penetrating oil, the oil catches fire but quickly burns off.

If it doesn't come undone leave it and try again another day using the same process.

Colin

[JDNSW]

I have found an electric heat gun is quite effective for this sort of thing, and less likely to have undesired side effects (fire) than a blowtorch.