too good to be true? Chain Saw sharpening.

[NavyDiver]

My file work is usually good yet a bit slow. I tool to hold the file helps. Saw this on a click bait and had to wonder if its me doing it all wrong or is it just Click bait for the boys?

(A little battery powered round sharpener is now my tool of choice)


Pick of the OUT SIdE idea in the link[biggrin] Brains trust thoughts?

https://images.loox.io/uploads/2024/1/3/iZbg7Ecx9_mid.jpg





UltraSaw™ - chain sharpener for every chainsaw
– My-Garden-Oasis.com (https://my-garden-oasis.com/products/ultrasaw?variant=47421304635686)

[grey_ghost]

Hi,

I bought something very similar to this. I thought "it's cheap and if it works - then why not! I will give anything a go once."

Anyway - it didn't fit my saw. The unit that I purchased had a fixed point that you put in the hole at the end of your saw, and it wasn't adjustable.. I had a mate look at it (it case I was missing something) and he agreed - it simply wouldn't work with my chainsaw... In the bin it went.

Just make sure that it fits is the only advice that I can give...

Cheers,
Grey Ghost.

[Tins]

If your filing is good enough, then be like your local butcher... if you still have one that is. Notice how every time he goes to cut he will give a couple of passes with his steel. Ok, obviously that would be tedious when chainsawing, but the idea is to not wait until it is blunt before sharpening.

BTW, I also bought a miracle sharpener. Not quite the same as that one. IMO a total waste of time and money.

[NavyDiver]

I do have one a little like this with is very quick.

The file that came with mine was not so good. I cut up a better round file sized specific to my teeth size and that made it work much faster and better[thumbsupbig] Mine is battery powered for remote location use it tended to be used at.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81HhjSQlL7L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com.au/EzzDoo-Electric-Sharpener-Sharpening-Accessories/dp/B08TTWYN73/ref=asc_df_B08TTWYN73/'tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=612100499033&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17065472102333999819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9071363&hvtargid=pla-1424610262712&psc=1&mcid=08f9356eb72e32b0877ef7bd1a5523b4

[Tombie]

My solution was simpler, if not a little more expensive…

I just fit a new chain and toss the old one :)

[AK83]

start with a high quality chain which should last longer and won't dull easily.

Best Chainsaw Chain Brand? (10 BRANDS), Stihl vs Oregon, Husqvarna, Carlton, Forester - YouTube (https://youtu.be/7_tsY2abJes'si=kdATPrf-fZip967z)

Then have a look at his sharpener review too.

Which Chainsaw Sharpener is Best? Let's find out! Stihl, Granberg, Chicago Electric, Oregon - YouTube (https://youtu.be/BzmKwxfqjjQ'si=x_fnPGIX8B-jvAX6)

He picked the two Grandberg tools, and also the Stihl file, which made the chain sharper than a new one, but the Oregon file also did well too.
Important point in his video for the sharpener is to take time to use the tool 'more correctly' and get ideal grinds for the profile of the chain teeth, and the improvements are noticeable.
If you don't follow Project Farm, I suggest watch some of his testing vids ... [thumbsupbig]

[V8Ian]

I give mine a touch up, with the correct file, every few cuts, more frequently for hardwood, less for for softwood and before packing it up.

[DoubleChevron]

My file work is usually good yet a bit slow. I tool to hold the file helps. Saw this on a click bait and had to wonder if its me doing it all wrong or is it just Click bait for the boys?

(A little battery powered round sharpener is now my tool of choice)


Pick of the OUT SIdE idea in the link[biggrin] Brains trust thoughts?

https://images.loox.io/uploads/2024/1/3/iZbg7Ecx9_mid.jpg





UltraSaw™ - chain sharpener for every chainsaw
– My-Garden-Oasis.com (https://my-garden-oasis.com/products/ultrasaw?variant=47421304635686)


I don't see how that could possibly work. Does it need a special chain? All its going to do is grind the cutters and rakers down , while not sharpening the cutting edge.

[DoubleChevron]

I like attempting (badly) to file my own. It cuts better than one of the cheap sharpeners.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13XgB-BVvx0

This guy is awesome

[POD]

I can't see how that gimmick that grinds the outside of the tooth could be any use, even if it did achieve an edge on the first couple of uses, the tooth would be the wrong shape before long and would not be able to be sharpened again without extensive work on the tooth gullet. I'm thinking yes, too good to be true. It will probably do what it is designed to do- sell several thousand units and make money for the designer.
I've revolutionised my chainsaw experience by learning to use a file properly, after using one of those drop-saw type sharpeners for many years with mixed results.

[DoubleChevron]

I can't see how that gimmick that grinds the outside of the tooth could be any use, even if it did achieve an edge on the first couple of uses, the tooth would be the wrong shape before long and would not be able to be sharpened again without extensive work on the tooth gullet. I'm thinking yes, too good to be true. It will probably do what it is designed to do- sell several thousand units and make money for the designer.
I've revolutionised my chainsaw experience by learning to use a file properly, after using one of those drop-saw type sharpeners for many years with mixed results.

"The gullet" ... Yep, you've been watching buckin billy too. That guy sure does know which way the merde flows :)

[goingbush]

I put the bar in a vice & go around the saw freehand with a cordless angle grinder using a disc that i have suitably profiled & knock off the depth guages as required , Takes about a minuite per side.

works a treat.

[cuppabillytea]

Used to sharpen them with a file when they came off hire. It's therapeutic when you're being paid by the hour.[tonguewink]

[sharmy]

Some chains sharpen from the top as in the Oregon cs300. I take one of these when I go bush, it has its own inbuilt sharpening stone, you just lift up a leaver for a couple of seconds while it is running and just keep on cutting--great for firewood.

[DoubleChevron]

Some chains sharpen from the top as in the Oregon cs300. I take one of these when I go bush, it has its own inbuilt sharpening stone, you just lift up a leaver for a couple of seconds while it is running and just keep on cutting--great for firewood.

I'm guessing this sharpener needs you to buy specific chains with it then :)

[sharmy]

I'm guessing this sharpener needs you to buy specific chains with it then :)
Yes you do and each new chain comes with a sharpening stone. they are not badly priced if you shop around. I have got a couple out of the UK. There are a number of different ones so I gather other saws use the same set up.

[Saitch]

I can't see how that gimmick that grinds the outside of the tooth could be any use, even if it did achieve an edge on the first couple of uses, the tooth would be the wrong shape before long and would not be able to be sharpened again without extensive work on the tooth gullet. I'm thinking yes, too good to be true. It will probably do what it is designed to do- sell several thousand units and make money for the designer.
I've revolutionised my chainsaw experience by learning to use a file properly, after using one of those drop-saw type sharpeners for many years with mixed results.

I use one of the flat, file holders, with the relevant angles marked on it. I was given a Stihl 'Raise and Lower' type sharpener, but prefer the flat, file holder. I normally give the chain teeth a three-pass touch every tank refill, unless cutting seasoned hardwood, such as old fence posts, power poles etc.
The only issue I have is that i have three saws, with different sized teeth.
One thing I have done is line marked both 45° angles on the top of the work bench, vice jaws. This makes it a little easier when sharpening, as well.

As Tombie said, a new chain is easy, but more expensive. When cutting for a living, quite often a chain roll is available to facilitate production.

[DoubleChevron]

I use one of the flat, file holders, with the relevant angles marked on it. I was given a Stihl 'Raise and Lower' type sharpener, but prefer the flat, file holder. I normally give the chain teeth a three-pass touch every tank refill, unless cutting seasoned hardwood, such as old fence posts, power poles etc.
The only issue I have is that i have three saws, with different sized teeth.
One thing I have done is line marked both 45° angles on the top of the work bench, vice jaws. This makes it a little easier when sharpening, as well.

As Tombie said, a new chain is easy, but more expensive. When cutting for a living, quite often a chain roll is available to facilitate production.

I just tinker and use the saws aruond the yard. its no big deal to use a file to sharpen my own chains (given its a very rare event .... And I quite enjoy it). My saws are all old junk though. that I'd probably struggle to find chains for.

I picked up a couple of old Italian mccollochs. last one was $10 and appeared to be brand new. the needle and seat were just stuck ... and probably had been from assembly at the factory. I have an ancient old Pro-mac 650 and picked up this little rippa for $50 bucks a few weeks back.

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?attachments/20231223_115719-jpg.232931/


Its one heavy little beast oleo-mac 284F for $50 bucks. I did get it running, she one grunty little saw. I'm going to throw a carby kit through it before I try cutting wood. so 5 junky old saws here... the only thing they have in common is none share chains or bars ... sigh ....