Lithium Aux Battery?

[John_D4]

I’m aware that generally lithium doesn’t like being under bonnets, but I’m thinking about replacing my under bonnet SSB dry cell with one of these lithiums. I already have a Projecta IDC25X DCDC’s, and I’ve thought about making an aluminium surround for the aux to give it some heat protection.

No, I’m not moving my battery into the rear of my car!

iTECH54 12v 54Ah Lithium Ion Battery - LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Camping RV S (https://itechworld.com.au/collections/lithium-batteries/products/itech054-12v-54ah-lithium-ion-battery-lifepo4-deep-cycle-recycle-camping-rv-solar-slim-line)

[Parso]

I’m aware that generally lithium doesn’t like being under bonnets, but I’m thinking about replacing my under bonnet SSB dry cell with one of these lithiums. I already have a Projecta IDC25X DCDC’s, and I’ve thought about making an aluminium surround for the aux to give it some heat protection.

No, I’m not moving my battery into the rear of my car!

iTECH54 12v 54Ah Lithium Ion Battery - LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Camping RV S (https://itechworld.com.au/collections/lithium-batteries/products/itech054-12v-54ah-lithium-ion-battery-lifepo4-deep-cycle-recycle-camping-rv-solar-slim-line)Do they work with Traxide?

[John_D4]

Do they work with Traxide?

I removed my Traxxide aux battery controller in favour of the IDC25X as I’ve been planning a lithium upgrade and adding solar. A good solar controller was going to set me back about the same price as the IDC25X with the benefit of it being an all in one DCDC and solar controller

[John_D4]

Not sure if you’re aware or not, but lithium needs a constant high charge rate which Traxxide cannot do

[SeanC]

I’m aware that generally lithium doesn’t like being under bonnets, but I’m thinking about replacing my under bonnet SSB dry cell with one of these lithiums. I already have a Projecta IDC25X DCDC’s, and I’ve thought about making an aluminium surround for the aux to give it some heat protection.

No, I’m not moving my battery into the rear of my car!

iTECH54 12v 54Ah Lithium Ion Battery - LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Camping RV S (https://itechworld.com.au/collections/lithium-batteries/products/itech054-12v-54ah-lithium-ion-battery-lifepo4-deep-cycle-recycle-camping-rv-solar-slim-line)

Rather than an aluminium surround you could use one of the adhesive heat blankets. Should give better insulation than aluminium but would have to re-do for each battery.

[Tombie]

I’m aware that generally lithium doesn’t like being under bonnets, but I’m thinking about replacing my under bonnet SSB dry cell with one of these lithiums. I already have a Projecta IDC25X DCDC’s, and I’ve thought about making an aluminium surround for the aux to give it some heat protection.

No, I’m not moving my battery into the rear of my car!

iTECH54 12v 54Ah Lithium Ion Battery - LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Camping RV S (https://itechworld.com.au/collections/lithium-batteries/products/itech054-12v-54ah-lithium-ion-battery-lifepo4-deep-cycle-recycle-camping-rv-solar-slim-line)


NOPE!!! Thats not rated to go under there, the BMS wont handle it....

I have their 120X under the nose of the nose of the D4 its rated for it...

[John_D4]

As an aux battery Tombie, not a starting battery. It’ll be on a Traxxide aux battery mount where the European diesel heater space is.

[loanrangie]

As an aux battery Tombie, not a starting battery. It’ll be on a Traxxide aux battery mount where the European diesel heater space is.

Thats probably even worse a location than the aux compartment, box will need to be well insulated and maybe even ducted with fresh air.

[drivesafe]

Hi John and first off, your Traxide isolator is NOT the limiting factor when trying to charge lithium batteries directly from a D4 alternator.

The D4 comes with a SMART alternator operation and will stop charging a lithium battery and the BMS in a D4 will actually cause the D4 to run its electric off the lithium battery while your are driving.

In D3s and the original defenders, you can charge lithium batteries directly off the alternator through a Traxide isolator.

Next, your idea of an aluminium battery box is far superior to a thermal blanket, because any heat that will get to the battery, particularly on long drives, will keep in battery hot, long after the motor has stopped.

An aluminium box, fitted no closer to the battery than 10mm, will reflect the radiated heat coming from the motor but will allow any heat in the battery to quickly vent off once the motor stops.

[John_D4]

Thanks for your advice Tim. It’s appreciated. I do still have my usi160, I’m thinking of using it too charge my camper batteries. Thinking of:

Alternator—-maxi fuse—-USI160—6 or 4 AWG to tow bar-etc to camper batteries (going to be replaced with maybe about 200amp or so liPo4)

Haven’t decided on a camper BMS yet. Besides the 2000w Redarc inverter, I’m redoing the rest.

[DiscoDB]

Car Builders sell aluminium heat shield that can be formed into shape as needed.

Still needs an air gap and ideally if you could feed some fresh air into the box you could create a space which is at near ambient temperature. Find a way to duct some tubing to direct cool air into the battery box.

Aluminium Heat Shield - Quality Materials to Keep Your Ride Cool (https://www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-embossed-heat-shield)

[Parso]

Hi John and first off, your Traxide isolator is NOT the limiting factor when trying to charge lithium batteries directly from a D4 alternator.

The D4 comes with a SMART alternator operation and will stop charging a lithium battery and the BMS in a D4 will actually cause the D4 to run its electric off the lithium battery while your are driving.

In D3s and the original defenders, you can charge lithium batteries directly off the alternator through a Traxide isolator.

Next, your idea of an aluminium battery box is far superior to a thermal blanket, because any heat that will get to the battery, particularly on long drives, will keep in battery hot, long after the motor has stopped.

An aluminium box, fitted no closer to the battery than 10mm, will reflect the radiated heat coming from the motor but will allow any heat in the battery to quickly vent off once the motor stops.So my D3 Traxide could utilize something like this? Or is there a lithium you recommend?

[John_D4]

Car Builders sell aluminium heat shield that can be formed into shape as needed.

Still needs an air gap and ideally if you could feed some fresh air into the box you could create a space which is at near ambient temperature. Find a way to duct some tubing to direct cool air into the battery box.

Aluminium Heat Shield - Quality Materials to Keep Your Ride Cool (https://www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-embossed-heat-shield)

Thanks. I didn’t know that. Will look into it

[drivesafe]

So my D3 Traxide could utilize something like this? Or is there a lithium you recommend?
Hi Parso and yes, your D3 will charge lithium batteries direct from your alternator,.

D3 alternators charge at no lower than 13.5v, so D3 will never run on the lithium battery while the motor is running.

You need a minimum of 13.8v to fully charge a lithium battery.

When ever you start your D3, it will run at a much higher voltage for at least 30 minutes. This will allow bulk recharging of the lithium battery during this period.

But should the alternator voltage drop down to 13.5v, it will not discharge the lithium battery while driving ( something that a D4 will do ).

If you have Traxide isolator, it will need to be one of th e newer versions, one supplied in the last 5 or so years.

Then when the auxiliary battery is a lithium, set the Traxide isolator to IGNITION/STORAGE mode and leave it there at all times.

[drivesafe]

Hi again John, and you do not need a BOX.

Just a reflective panel placed at the engine side of the battery will do what you are after.

Also, I would use a thin sheet of polished stainless steel instead of aluminium.

A little experiment for you.

If you want to see how hot it gets where you want to locate the battery, after a long drive, measure the temperature of the fluid in the reservoir, located just behind your headlight.

[ytt105]

Drivesafe

How goes your investigation into a Traxide system for D4s to charge a lithium battery.

Also, while I've got you, I presume I can use your system for an AGM dual battery in a diesel VW Touareg , 2015.

Regards
Trevor

[John_D4]

Hi again John, and you do not need a BOX.

Just a reflective panel placed at the engine side of the battery will do what you are after.

Also, I would use a thin sheet of polished stainless steel instead of aluminium.

A little experiment for you.

If you want to see how hot it gets where you want to locate the battery, after a long drive, measure the temperature of the fluid in the reservoir, located just behind your headlight.

Things are getting easier and easier! Thanks Tim, I’ll try that

[John_D4]

Why stainless and not aluminium?

[drivesafe]

Why stainless and not aluminium?
A polished surface is best as it reflects the radiated heat coming from the motor.

Polished aluminium will not keep its polished finish for long, while stainless remains polished and is easy to clean.

[Bohica]

As well as an aluminium box, multi layer insulation, MLI, could be the go.

My Kings LiFeP04 battery in the D2 charges via a Traxide. No problems there.

[John_D4]

As well as an aluminium box, multi layer insulation, MLI, could be the go.

My Kings LiFeP04 battery in the D2 charges via a Traxide. No problems there.

What’s MLI?

[DiscoJeffster]

What’s MLI?

Multi layer insulation

[Bohica]

What’s MLI?

Lots of layers of a thin insulator, each insulator rejects say 90% of the heat, very little gets through. On a large scale the James Webb Space Telescope, I think the heat shield on that is the size of a tennis court.
Works better if the layers do not touch or have minmal touching.

[John_D4]

Oh right. That makes perfect sense. Just need to find time to made the box. Thanks

[DiscoDB]

John you are still going to get a lot of heat soak when parked up, even with a heat shield / box.

May pay to get a wireless temp sensor/gauge to see what sort of under bonnet temps you will be dealing with.

[Desilendjinn]

Hi John and first off, your Traxide isolator is NOT the limiting factor when trying to charge lithium batteries directly from a D4 alternator.

The D4 comes with a SMART alternator operation and will stop charging a lithium battery and the BMS in a D4 will actually cause the D4 to run its electric off the lithium battery while your are driving.

In D3s and the original defenders, you can charge lithium batteries directly off the alternator through a Traxide isolator.

Next, your idea of an aluminium battery box is far superior to a thermal blanket, because any heat that will get to the battery, particularly on long drives, will keep in battery hot, long after the motor has stopped.

An aluminium box, fitted no closer to the battery than 10mm, will reflect the radiated heat coming from the motor but will allow any heat in the battery to quickly vent off once the motor stops.

Drivesafe - can you confirm that you can use a LiFePO4 aux battery with a traxide system. I have a SC80 i am looking at migrating from my D4 and would like to use a lithium for this.

[drivesafe]

Drivesafe - can you confirm that you can use a LiFePO4 aux battery with a traxide system. I have a SC80 i am looking at migrating from my D4 and would like to use a lithium for this.
Hi mate and sorry, you can NOT use it to charge a Lithium Battery in a new Land Rover ( D4 or Later ) but you can use it in an original Defender or Series or D3.