Settings?

[Tins]

Amateur hour.

I have made a number of things on my printer. Most seem ok. Couple of things, not so much. They tend to be brittle. I might add the .stl files ( nope, they don't want to attach.) . Using the standard settings in the slicer works fine with PLA for something static, for example a D2 window switch panel ( yes, I know about the temp issue, I just wanted to see the results ). Printed a couple of these and they seem robust and not brittle. Printing one in PETG was disastrous. Hardly any integrity at all.

I have printed a number of those stoopid headlight clips. In PLA they turn out well, but fail after some time. I would expect that. The PETG ones fail as soon as they are fitted. The lugs just snap off.
Question is, with the PETG is this likely to be a layer adhesion issue? I also printed some RRC headrest holder tubes in PETG, and the results were unusable. Right shape and size, but...

I have some ABS which I am yet to try, so I will print some headlight clips first as they take no time.

Machine is a FlashForge Creator Pro 2. Uses a proprietary slicer, currently FlashPrint 5. I have a hack to use Cura, but it's difficult to get it to work with the dual extruders of my machine. Will look for alternatives. FlashPrint isn't very user friendly.

Default settings for ABS:
188985188986
Default for PETG:
188987188988

Oh yeah, the FF CP is an enclosed printer, but it is not heated. Warmth for ABS would come from the bed and the hot end.

[johnp38]

I have a Creality Ender 3 V2 I bought 2 years ago still in box and out of warranty, came with extra motor kit to raise extruder supposedly more evenly and an auto leveler attachment.

It will probably be dead from disuse before I get to it.

You're doing fine, you will work it out, or work out you need a different brand / model with better software support.

I bought the Ender coz there is so much of a community out there to learn from.

[Tombie]

Ender has a huge community because so much needs to be done to make them behave [emoji41]

A true enthusiasts platform [emoji23]

[Tombie]

I’m currently enjoying breakfast here in Thailand before hopping a flight to Singapore.

I’ll be back home next weekend Tins and will check my settings and let you know.

If you flick the link to the model in a PM, I’ll print a few and see how they turn out.

Here’s a hint to try and strengthen models - minimum 3 walls and where possible, print on an angle - it gives a different shearing plane

[Tins]

Sawasdee krab!

[workingonit]

Ender has a huge community because so much needs to be done to make them behave [emoji41]

A true enthusiasts platform [emoji23]

...sorry, got confused for a moment thinking you were talking short hand for the Def-Ender or other Rover - the sentiment is similar.[biggrin]

[Tins]

Ender has a huge community because so much needs to be done to make them behave [emoji41]

A true enthusiasts platform [emoji23]

Edit: Oops, bad word.... so youtube_share;k4Cc_3G4mpc]https. ://youtu.be/k4Cc_3G4mpc'si=iU9BoXh-7K-tYpg2

[Tins]

So, more... I don't understand bed adhesion and temp. I'm printing some cable holder things in PLA. They are warping and it seems like it's an adhesion issue. Printed them before with no issue and I believe the same settings, but I can't swear to that.

Previous print:
189806

Today:
189807

Settings:
189808

These prints will work, I can use them... but other things would be a waste of filament if they did this. I don't get it, do I need higher or lower bed temps? The settings here are the slicer default for PLA.

[Tins]

So, more... I don't understand bed adhesion and temp. I'm printing some cable holder things in PLA. They are warping and it seems like it's an adhesion issue. Printed them before with no issue and I believe the same settings, but I can't swear to that.

Previous print:
189806

Today:
189807

Settings:
189808

These prints will work, I can use them... but other things would be a waste of filament if they did this. I don't get it, do I need higher or lower bed temps? The settings here are the slicer default for PLA.

Well der... Looked at the pic of the settings.... Bed temp 40°?? Idiot. Move along, nothing to see here.

[Tins]

Well der... Looked at the pic of the settings.... Bed temp 40°?? Idiot. Move along, nothing to see here.

Hmm.. Not so fast. 40° should work.

[Tombie]

Hmm.. Not so fast. 40° should work.

No way...

PLA
= Extruder ~210c - 215c (depending on brand of filament)
= Bed ~ 60c

[Tins]

Thanks, , Mike. the reason I backpedalled on what I said was that the Overture filament I was using said 25°-60°. The FlashPrint Slicer put 40° in, but that probably was my fault, not its.

[cjc_td5]

Does your printer sit in an enclosure? Warping can be minimised by slowing the cooling of the model after printing. The smallest air movement will whip the temperature out of the hot print, making it cool faster and exacerbate any warping. Of course cooler ambient winter temps make things worse again. My printer sits in a coreflute enclosure, which the printer itself keeps nice and warm inside when operating.

Chris

[Tins]

Does your printer sit in an enclosure? Warping can be minimised by slowing the cooling of the model after printing. The smallest air movement will whip the temperature out of the hot print, making it cool faster and exacerbate any warping. Of course cooler ambient winter temps make things worse again. My printer sits in a coreflute enclosure, which the printer itself keeps nice and warm inside when operating.

Chris

My printer has its own enclosure.

[Tins]

FlashForge CreatorPro 2, IDEX.

[Tins]

Same stl, different settings
190121190122
Seems straight so far..

[Tombie]

Thats looking better

[Tins]

Thats looking better

Except, when I came down this morning I found that the filament had bound on the spool, snapped, and the thing had been printing fresh air for around ten hours... ☹️
The FF does not have a filament out switch, it does not have a pause/restart function, and it is infamously untinkerable... It's a bit like a D2, so many things you don't know you need until you own one.

[Tombie]

Bugger!

I just upgraded my Prusa Mk3s+ to 3.5.
I’ve been running a Revo print head for a while and 3.5+Revo is a lovely combination.

Whilst I had to pull it apart to upgrade, I figured a change of colour was in order.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240705/fab2d060aafd233595f09e7eb4e56eb6.jpg

Then printed this (manually swapping the filament took a total of 3.5 hours - it was proof of concept though, so the MMU is now on its way.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240705/242392ba213fb1c6a4144687ede83c74.jpg