Td5 Auto slow to get going first thing

[00quattro00]

When starting my td5 disco for the first time from cold the auto takes a few seconds to start moving in both forwards and reverse, almost feels like it needs to build up pressure before it starts to move, if I give it throttle it revs up a bit. Other than that it seems fine, once driven its fine for the rest of the day

[shack]

When starting my td5 disco for the first time from cold the auto takes a few seconds to start moving in both forwards and reverse, almost feels like it needs to build up pressure before it starts to move, if I give it throttle it revs up a bit. Other than that it seems fine, once driven its fine for the rest of the dayI'd say there's an oil leak internally in the Auto.
Discorevy will have some insight as to what if he sees the post.

[Slunnie]

Mine does that too. I'm not sure why. I idle it in N for a short period before driving off and that seems to get the fluid to whereever it is meant to be.

[AK83]

Me too.
Mine specifically when cold .. cold.
eg. overnight if it's been high teens or say 20 degrees .. no problem.
But if it's been low teens, maybe mid teens, does the same thing ... idle for 30sec in park or N .. and then no slipping sluggishness.
If I idle it in Drive, it seems to build up it's pressure a bit quicker ... maybe 15 sec or so.

If I go to work, and have it parked up for eg. 10 hours, weirdly, no problem again.
But if I get home at say 12 or 1 am, then start it up again first thing in the morning (say 6 or 7 am) .. sluggish again.

So it seems to be temp(cold) dependent or 'an overnight' thing???

The other possibility of this strangeness is that my drive is on a very slight incline, maybe 5 degree, and I park it facing up the incline.
At work my parking is usually pretty much flat.
This is the only other anomaly that comes to mind in the differences in how it sits for a time and has this intermittent issue.

[Tins]

Mine too, on two different autos.

[RobMichelle]

Me too.
Mine specifically when cold .. cold.
eg. overnight if it's been high teens or say 20 degrees .. no problem.
But if it's been low teens, maybe mid teens, does the same thing ... idle for 30sec in park or N .. and then no slipping sluggishness.
If I idle it in Drive, it seems to build up it's pressure a bit quicker ... maybe 15 sec or so.

If I go to work, and have it parked up for eg. 10 hours, weirdly, no problem again.
But if I get home at say 12 or 1 am, then start it up again first thing in the morning (say 6 or 7 am) .. sluggish again.

So it seems to be temp(cold) dependent or 'an overnight' thing???

The other possibility of this strangeness is that my drive is on a very slight incline, maybe 5 degree, and I park it facing up the incline.
At work my parking is usually pretty much flat.
This is the only other anomaly that comes to mind in the differences in how it sits for a time and has this intermittent issue.

It needs more sleep [emoji99]

[simonmelb]

When cold the fluid takes longer to drain back to the transmission sump so you don’t get drive.

Once warmed up fluid flows back quicker and life is good.

So have you checked the fluid level?

[V8Ian]

Mine does the same, I've been told it's a weak t/c seal, also known as a lazy converter.

[sierrafery]

That seems very common issue but might be even normal in some cases cos first of all the Td5 is supposed to stay at idle after cold start for 15 seconds anyway, auto or not, i suppose that by analogy a similar theory like for the turbo applies to the autobox too:

(from the WSM)
"The engine should be allowed to idle for 15 seconds following engine start up and before the engine is switched off
to protect the turbocharger by maintaining oil supply to the turbine bearings."

Another thing is that if there is any current fault code which might not affect the driveability but it's there the ECUs need few seconds to restore a partially optimal default strategy(provided the fault is "compatible" with such thing)

I've seen this symptom at some friends and it seems more common on the de-EGR'd vehicles which were not remapped for that and EGR fault codes are always there, in some cases resetting the TCU's addaptive values with nanocom or similar can help as well but at the end IMO it's something to live with as long as everything else works fine

[shack]

As discorevy hasn't dropped by....

I believe one of the main reasons for slow get away, is a damaged/scored fluid pump in the trans.

Also the age of the seals used throughout the box.

If the box is taking excessively long to pickup fluid, I'd say a rebuild of some sort is coming up.

It's a pain, but on the plus side they can be rebuilt "better than new".

One design flaw of the box is the lack of temperature sensor and pressure sensor.

The failings of a lack of temp sensor are obvious.

The lack of pressure sensor delivers slightly more obscure problems.

[Tins]

I'm perfectly happy letting mine idle for a bit before taking off. It's always seemed like good practice to me to get the lifeblood circulating, and has been a very much enforced habit from driving trucks with air systems.
Mine has done this since I got it at around 215k up until maybe 310k when the ( AFAIK unrelated ) trans failure. The one in it now is S/H, Ks unknown, and it's the same. I don't want to talk about the two in between:bat::wallbash::mad:[bigsad]

Poor man pays thrice, it seems.

[AK83]

The 'issue' has been from day one when bro bought the TD5.
Trans has been rebuilt 5K prior to purchase, but on the invoice they didn't spec that the torque converter had been renewed in any way(new or rebuilt).
Just the trans being rebuilt.
Bro had the torque converter rebuilt not that long ago too, was slipping/vibrating/not locking up as expected. But since rebuild, working fine too.
So AFAIK, trans is 99% thought to be OK.

I don't know actual build differences between the D1 HP22 and the D2 HP22E in terms of mechanicals, obviously the electronic differences, but D1 doesn't do this in the same scenarios as the D2 does.

Also I'm like JT, in that I always idle before moving off anyhow(hot or cold) .. usually 15 sec sometimes more(being a smoker I roll 'em up, and can take some time).

[Tins]

.. usually 15 sec sometimes more(being a smoker I roll 'em up, and can take some time).

Strewth! When I smoked I would have run out of diesel by the time I did that. Not in my skillset.

[00quattro00]

Mine had the torque converter done by the previous owner, it has a lower stall speed and better clutches. The car has 360,000km on it and I have no idea whats been done to it. Im going to drop the pan and do an oil and filter on it this weekend.

I do have a complete parts donor like any self respecting landy owner so will just see what happens to it.

Wouldnt mind picking up another trans to do a proper upgrade/rebuild on

[Gee101]

Found this on Ashcrofts's site. Might be useful.

When I start my Automatic Range Rover in the mornings it takes a while to engage drive, it has not always done this. This has become worse in the cold weather. Why?
It sounds like you need to change the filter. In the cold weather, i.e when the oil is cold and more viscous, if the filter is partially blocked it will take some time for the pump to draw oil through it. Once the oil becomes warm it flows more freely and can pass through the filter more easily. Hence the problem only occurs when the oil is cold. To remedy this problem your filter needs to be changed. This should be done sooner rather later to reduce the possibility of damage to the autobox, by the clutches 'slipping' during this slow engagement.