Oil pressure warning light intermittent

[Tinggu]

At 400K the oil warning light sometimes fails go out. Likely the sender? Can't find it [bighmmm] ha ha!

Seems to run fine and next time I start her up the light goes out as it should.

I'd been led to believe that the Nanocom would display oil pressure but have not found that either.

Could someone please me (idiot) steps to navigate the Nanocom to oil pressure. Not where I would expect to find it in "Instruments".

Thanks!

Pete

[PhilipA]

The sender is under the turbo on the back of the engine. Do not be fooled that there are two wires. There is only one. LR must have got a discount on 2 wire looms but one is not connected to anything.
Regards PhilipA

[Tins]

Like Philip said. Mine did this, and I found the wire that goes around the back of the head to be chafed, and touching earth occasionally.

190120

As for the Nanocom, I'm not at all sure it will display oil press.

[FNQLR]

At 400K the oil warning light sometimes fails go out. Likely the sender? Can't find it [bighmmm] ha ha!

Seems to run fine and next time I start her up the light goes out as it should.

I'd been led to believe that the Nanocom would display oil pressure but have not found that either.

Could someone please me (idiot) steps to navigate the Nanocom to oil pressure. Not where I would expect to find it in "Instruments".

Thanks!

Pete

Nanocom wont display oil pressure. The sender is only a switch output.

Does it flicker only at idle?

[Tins]

Does it flicker only at idle?

Yes, idle will be when the pressure is lowest. But the symptoms would be more regular I would think.

[FNQLR]

Yes, idle will be when the pressure is lowest. But the symptoms would be more regular I would think.

My oil light used to flicker at idle, I ended up putting in a proper gauge so I could see what was going on. Idle psi was a constant 8+psi.

I now only run 10w40 - it now never drops below 15. Never going back to 5w30

[Tins]

My oil light used to flicker at idle, I ended up putting in a proper gauge so I could see what was going on. Idle psi was a constant 8+psi.

I now only run 10w40 - it now never drops below 15. Never going back to 5w30

What our German friend calls 5W Dumbass.... I run Penrite HPR 10W40, Won't go back either. Reminds me, due for a change soon.

[Tinggu]

Nanocom wont display oil pressure. The sender is only a switch output.

Does it flicker only at idle?

Thanks for your reply.
No, it doesn't flicker. It either stays firmly on at any revs or firmly off as she starts.
I think that's a failing of the Nanocom. Plenty of info I have no understanding of but this basic need is not addressed.
"No Faults found in ECU"

[Tinggu]

Like Philip said. Mine did this, and I found the wire that goes around the back of the head to be chafed, and touching earth occasionally.

190120

As for the Nanocom, I'm not at all sure it will display oil press.

Thanks for the illustration. I'll have a look.
Under and behind the turbo. I have an embarrassing oil leak whose source I have not been able to locate, but in that vicinity. I am leaning towards the idea of the oil pressure switch physically leaking. Had that years ago in an HQ.

[FNQLR]

Thanks for your reply.
No, it doesn't flicker. It either stays firmly on at any revs or firmly off as she starts.
I think that's a failing of the Nanocom. Plenty of info I have no understanding of but this basic need is not addressed.
"No Faults found in ECU"


yeah nah - you cant blame nanocom for this. The LR bean counters are the ones who decided to only fit a switch.

Aftermarket gauges are pretty cheap, the one I fitted has an inbuilt alarm that has a settable trigger level.

[Tins]

I think that's a failing of the Nanocom.

Nope. As FNQLR says, the oil switch is just that. On/off. Nanocom can't display what it can't see.

It's relatively easy to fit an oil pressure gauge. I'd do a temp gauge and low coolant alarm while you're at it. LR cheaped out on those as well. TD5 temp gauge only tells you there's something wrong after it's too late, ask me how I know.

[Bohica]

Nope. As FNQLR says, the oil switch is just that. On/off. Nanocom can't display what it can't see.

It's relatively easy to fit an oil pressure gauge. I'd do a temp gauge and low coolant alarm while you're at it. LR cheaped out on those as well. TD5 temp gauge only tells you there's something wrong after it's too late, ask me how I know.

I dodged a bullet, my son rang to tell em that the temp gauge shot up and the red light came on driving home from Geelong. I replaced the oil cooler hose blank and refilled with coolant and all is good, this was about 3 years ago.

[Tins]

I dodged a bullet, .

I didn't, and the bullet was a head gasket[bigsad]

To be fair, even a fancy temp alarm wasn't going to save me, the car still had the infamous plastic dowels.

[Bohica]

I didn't, and the bullet was a head gasket[bigsad]

To be fair, even a fancy temp alarm wasn't going to save me, the car still had the infamous plastic dowels.

My head gasket went in 2015 ithat head gasket was repaired with the steel dowels, maybe that saved it this time.

[sierrafery]

Thanks for the illustration. I'll have a look.
Under and behind the turbo. I have an embarrassing oil leak whose source I have not been able to locate, but in that vicinity. I am leaning towards the idea of the oil pressure switch physically leaking. Had that years ago in an HQ.
To be simpler, it's connected to the oil cooler housing

[Tins]

I am leaning towards the idea of the oil pressure switch physically leaking. Had that years ago in an HQ.

That could probably do it.. Far easier to get at than it looks, but wait until it's at least cool enough to touch. Obviously..

Here's one (https://www.4wdindustries.com.au/switch-oil-pressure-switch-land-rover-discovery-2) That's not a recommendation as such, but I've had good service from them.

[PhilipA]

Just a heads up. If the sender is flickering on idle either do an oil pressure test with a gauge or replace the sender.
In my long life I have replaced/rebuilt 2 engines when it was the sender all along. You cannot imagine the angst after rebuilding a RRC engine to see the oil light come on at idle after new bearings etc only to extinguish with a new sender.
Regards PhilipA

[Tins]

Just a heads up. If the sender is flickering on idle either do an oil pressure test with a gauge or replace the sender.
In my long life I have replaced/rebuilt 2 engines when it was the sender all along. You cannot imagine the angst after rebuilding a RRC engine to see the oil light come on at idle after new bearings etc only to extinguish with a new sender.
Regards PhilipA

Ha! I've usually approached it the other way, i.e. it's probably the sender.... Cost me a B Series engine to a failed big end. Long time ago, and lesson learned. But the OP says that that's not the behaviour. If it comes on it stays on, no flickering at idle. Prolly not a lack of oil pressure in that case.

[Tinggu]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I took off the heat shield and there was a very leaky oil pressure switch. Have blocked the hole in the switch with a screw thread and Araldite so I can drive around while I'm waiting for the new one. One of the wires broke, behind the cylinder head so I need to chase that back to where it comes from. Found another manifold stud sheared off. I knew I had one missing so she's a bit sooty round there. What are my chances of getting the stubs out with an easyout? What ****y little studs for an important job. No wonder they fail.

[FNQLR]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I took off the heat shield and there was a very leaky oil pressure switch. Have blocked the hole in the switch with a screw thread and Araldite so I can drive around while I'm waiting for the new one. One of the wires broke, behind the cylinder head so I need to chase that back to where it comes from. Found another manifold stud sheared off. I knew I had one missing so she's a bit sooty round there. What are my chances of getting the stubs out with an easyout? What ****y little studs for an important job. No wonder they fail.

I had zero dramas getting mine out.

Spend the money and buy cobalt / super good drill bits. a fresh one for each stud.
Spend the time and remove all the crap hanging off the engine so you have good access as well.

[Tins]

What are my chances of getting the stubs out with an easyout?

Not great[bigsad]. And you need to be careful as you aren't far from the water jacket. Better to take the manifold right off and work at it slowly. You can go up a stud size, and you can elongate the holes in the manifold to help cope with the warping. I think you'll find quite a few threads on here, cos you ain't the first to come across this....:bat:

[Tinggu]

Sounds like good advice. Thank you.