Diff installation queries.

[Bohica]

I have acquired a diff. A few queries.

Use RTV or paper gasket?
How do you get the half shafts back into the diff? Just jiggle and pray?

[Tins]

I have acquired a diff. A few queries.

Use RTV or paper gasket?
How do you get the half shafts back into the diff? Just jiggle and pray?

RTV. Something like Permatex Blue.
Yes, but be careful of the seal... ask me how I know. If you can find something to support the shaft so it is sort of central to the seal it's better. They go in fairly easily.
No need to remove the hub from the axle, just be careful of the ABS sensor.

[Bohica]

RTV. Something like Permatex Blue.
Yes, but be careful of the seal... ask me how I know. If you can find something to support the shaft so it is sort of central to the seal it's better. They go in fairly easily.
No need to remove the hub from the axle, just be careful of the ABS sensor.

Ta for the RTV

I was thinking of changing the seals. The oil went out somewhere.
There is enough movement to remove the front diff? I though the CV joint would get in the way.

[Tins]

Ta for the RTV

I was thinking of changing the seals. The oil went out somewhere.
There is enough movement to remove the front diff? I thought the CV joint would get in the way.
The CVs fit out through the hub carrier, but I repeat the caution about the ABS sensor. I found it best to pass that through behind before pulling the axles out.
It’s not a difficult job. Calliper off, disk off, undo the four bolts that hold the hub carrier on, Allen bolts for the ABS sensor and slide the axles out.
The seals are also easy enough if you have a tool to knock them back in square. It’s very easy to damage them if you just try to knock them in with a hammer. If you have a ball joint tool set there’s a good substitute in that.
Bit of loctite on the bolts and done. Hardest bit for me was undoing the screws on the disks.

[Tins]

Oh yeah, pay attention to the tiny O ring on the ABS sensor. Easy to damage it if you don’t know it’s there, and you need it.

[FNQLR]

Some of the second hand diffs are a bit loosie goosy.
Setting the crown to pinion backlash / contact patch is not too hard. (i've never done pinion height though)

If it feels a bit rubbish - have a go.

[Tins]

Some of the second hand diffs are a bit loosie goosy.
Setting the crown to pinion backlash / contact patch is not too hard. (i've never done pinion height though)

If it feels a bit rubbish - have a go.
Yes. The one I got seems to have set up a bit of a vibration. I guess I’ll be pulling it out again when the weather gets better.

[James NZ]

Hi

I've just recently done the seals, so would like to add...
Disassemble as Tins said but I didn't remove the abs sensor. The hub & sensor does come out of the steering knuckle in one piece if your careful. If you do remove the abs sensor a little bit of copper coat before reinstalling works wonders, don't ask me why. I can tell you that installing them dry will lead to replacing it later in my experience.

To install my seals I used a 6 sided 52mm socket that I have for doing series/Disco1 front hub nuts. The seal fits perfectly using the mud shield part of the seal to hold it in place. A 1/2" drive 300mm extension and your favourite hammer completes the job. Hopefully the pics help with the explanation.

Cheers, James NZ

[Tins]

It's likely I'm a little clumsier than you, I damaged the seal with a socket. I used this from my cheap ball joint kit:

190813

[Bohica]

It's likely I'm a little clumsier than you, I damaged the seal with a socket. I used this from my cheap ball joint kit:

190813

Clumsier than I? That I doubt. I have a mate who can make a 3d printed part to push the seal in.

[Tins]

Clumsier than I? That I doubt. I have a mate who can make a 3d printed part to push the seal in.
I tried that. I would suggest making it with the print set to solid. The honeycomb structure doesn’t seem to be strong enough. Or maybe I don’t know how to use my printer 😂

[James NZ]

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth. I think at AUD$202, its a rather expensive chunk of plastic. I've not had anything to do with 3d printing but the attached picture might give you an idea, I guess you've probably seen what it looks like already. I would be interested in a 3d printed one if it provides a better view when installing the seal. 2nd pic shows the universal handle that is used as well.

cheers, James NZ

[Bohica]

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth. I think at AUD$202, its a rather expensive chunk of plastic. I've not had anything to do with 3d printing but the attached picture might give you an idea, I guess you've probably seen what it looks like already. I would be interested in a 3d printed one if it provides a better view when installing the seal. 2nd pic shows the universal handle that is used as well.

cheers, James NZ

Bingo Range Rover P38 LRT-54-012 Tool by SCKStef - Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223995)
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/fe/5e/1f/83/2c/665b886d6cdce29aef2817338b309502_display_large.jpg


190817

[Tins]

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth.

Seal depth sets itself in the housing in this case.

[biggin]

I’m reading this thread with interest as I recently buggered up a seal installation. I’m still unclear exactly how far the seal needs to be inserted.

[Tins]

I’m reading this thread with interest as I recently buggered up a seal installation. I’m still unclear exactly how far the seal needs to be inserted.
Seal (FTC4822) will sit a couple of mill proud. It will bottom out on a shoulder so you can't insert it too far. You need to take a little care as the slinger ( looks a little like a speedy sleeve, you can remove it to change the CV boot ) can catch on the lip of the seal and fold it back. It's a bugger to see this if it happens. It's why I suggest using something to hold the axle as nearly central as you can when you push it in that last bit.

[Bohica]

190828

Made at work.
Now to build a Spigot removal tool or a large socket and washers

[biggin]

Seal (FTC4822) will sit a couple of mill proud. It will bottom out on a shoulder so you can't insert it too far. You need to take a little care as the slinger ( looks a little like a speedy sleeve, you can remove it to change the CV boot ) can catch on the lip of the seal and fold it back. It's a bugger to see this if it happens. It's why I suggest using something to hold the axle as nearly central as you can when you push it in that last bit.

Cheers Tins, I’ve actually had the axle out a few times without a problem, then the one time I replace the seal……

[Tins]

Cheers Tins, I’ve actually had the axle out a few times without a problem, then the one time I replace the seal……

Bugger.....

[V8Ian]

190828

Made at work.
Now to build a Spigot removal tool or a large socket and washers
Good to see our tax dollars spent well. [tonguewink][bigrolf]

[d2dave]

I have acquired a diff. A few queries.

Use RTV or paper gasket?


I have had the diffs in and out of my D1 and D2 numerous times.

I have just used plumbers roof and gutter silicone and never had a leak.

Can get a cartridge for around $5.

[Bohica]

A big thank you for all the advice on this topic, I had a look at RAVE, the procedure there follows the advice, Odd as RAVE tends to complicate matters. One query, RAVE states to lubricate the oil seal lip and the running surface, the oil seal lip is the outer part? It make sense to ease fitting, but I haven't done one of these so I am just checking.

[Tins]

A big thank you for all the advice on this topic, I had a look at RAVE, the procedure there follows the advice, Odd as RAVE tends to complicate matters. One query, RAVE states to lubricate the oil seal lip and the running surface, the oil seal lip is the outer part? It make sense to ease fitting, but I haven't done one of these so I am just checking.

Little bit won't hurt. I sprayed the sleeve with a little ATF second time I did mine. I wanted to stop the lip from folding back. And yes, the lip is the bit you'd think it is.

[Bohica]

Little bit won't hurt. I sprayed the sleeve with a little ATF second time I did mine. I wanted to stop the lip from folding back. And yes, the lip is the bit you'd think it is.


ok, I get the lip part, what is the running surface? the bit next to the lip?

[Bohica]

The seal on the tool. lip folding not possible.

190837

[V8Ian]

Where the lip contacts.

[Tins]

The seal on the tool. lip folding not possible.

190837

The lip was folded by the axle, not the tool.

The lip can catch here, but don't overthink it. I've done a lot of this sort of thing, and the folding over thing has only happened once. It's just a PITA cos you don't expect it.

190838

[d2dave]

If I was doing this job I would put a big smear of grease around the seal contact area.

[Bohica]

The lip was folded by the axle, not the tool.

The lip can catch here, but don't overthink it. I've done a lot of this sort of thing, and the folding over thing has only happened once. It's just a PITA cos you don't expect it.



You put the seal in backwards?

[Tins]

You put the seal in backwards?

No.

[Tins]

No.

The lip of the seal folded back over maybe 25% of the circumference. The elastic nature of a new seal meant that it held this shape, and thus didn't seal. This is impossible to see with the axle in place, and it may or may not fix itself. It didn't in my case. Like I said I have never had this happen before, although it would be easy to replicate.

BTW, Dave Fare has a neat trick to protect seals on installation, although it wouldn't work here. ( you might know him as Blknight (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/13085.html) , a guy to listen to ).


https://youtu.be/QAPDqnA7PuQ'si=nsGuqXp4OomqNWqZ