Td5 losing power but not completely

[Markf]

Hi all,
It's a 2002 Td5 Auto which is bog standard apart from EGR delete.

Yesterday it started losing power followed by an almighty shudder. I was going uphill in top gear with the TC locked at about 110 kph when it started to lose power to the extent that it could only manage about 70 kph. Normally this hill is doable with the cruise control engaged and is able to maintain (just) 110 kph. Immediately I thought front prop shaft but that's fine as is the rear rubber donut. After a bit of messing around and reading I think the shudder is due to one or more cylinders misfiring. After a bit more reading I figured that there may be a load of oil in the notorious red plug but that's as clean as a whistle.

Today I broke out the nanocom and could see that the injector values, which are normally between -2 and +2, started to go crazy - values of up to 40 on all five injectors when it started losing power. After stopping and restarting the values went back to normal and it appeared normal service resumed until the next hill. So it seems that the issue only becomes apparent in top gear under load at a decent speed.

Injector seals and washers were changed less than 3,000 km's ago so I don't believe it's them. Same with the air bleed valve.

My last assumption is that it could be the injector loom which is about 70,000 km's old.

So, am I on the right track or should I be looking elsewhere.

[PhilipA]

KISS. Look at the turbo to intercooler hose or the hose from the intercooler to inlet manifold.
if it is a stock hose they can delaminate inside and close up under boost.
Regards PhilipA

[V8Ian]

Loosing power alludes to having power in the first place. As the enquiry is in reference to a Td5, I think Mark is having a lend. [wink11]

[Markf]

Loosing power alludes to having power in the first place. As the enquiry is in reference to a Td5, I think Mark is having a lend. [wink11]

Oi... It must have some power. It would need a fair bit to make as much clattering and rattling noise as it does...[bigsmile1] I reckon if I could turn the noise into forward motion it'd rival an F1 car in acceleration...[bigsmile]

[Markf]

KISS. Look at the turbo to intercooler hose or the hose from the intercooler to inlet manifold.
if it is a stock hose they can delaminate inside and close up under boost.
Regards PhilipA

I haven't looked at the hoses yet. It has developed a bit of hissing at the gear change points 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd - approx 2250 rpm. Could that account for the injector values being so high or the horrible shuddering misfire though ? I can understand the power loss. I'll get rid of the current hoses and put my spare original hoses on and see how I go. The previous owner put pretty blue silicone hoses on it.

[PhilipA]

It could be that the clamp on the turbo or the intercooler is a bit loose and slips off. happened to me with silicon hoses. It is helpful to rough up the inside of a silicon hose with sandpaper to help the clamps to clamp.
Regards PhilipA

[shack]

The turbo hoses could well have delaminated, they should be checked.

However, if the injector balances are as far out as you say, it's probably injector washers and o rings... again.

There could be some crud at the bottom of an injector hole in the head that got missed.

[Tins]

Pretty blue silicone hoses

I thought the point of silicone hoses was to prevent the delaminating issue. I guess the quality may vary though. Does the nanocom show proper boost?

[V8Ian]

Define proper boost.

[shack]

I thought the point of silicone hoses was to prevent the delaminating issue. I guess the quality may vary though. Does the nanocom show proper boost?Sorry, didn't see that it already had silicone, they shouldn't delaminate.

It COULD be the injector loom, but the usual is injector seals.

Maybe do a purge cycle and see if it's noisy at all, that will give some clues as to what it might be, could even be the fuel pump failing.

[shack]

Define proper boost.On a stock TD5, 1.2 - 1.3 bar.

[Tins]

On a stock TD5, 1.2 - 1.3 bar.

I must check. I’m not sure mine is getting that much.

[sierrafery]

Check the ECU red plug, if it's full of oil you have the answer

[V8Ian]

I must check. I’m not sure mine is getting that much.
I'm pretty sure mine's not.

[Markf]

Check the ECU red plug, if it's full of oil you have the answer


Thanks Sierrafery. Unfortunately the red plug is as clean as a whistle. I was rather hoping it'd be oily as that would be an easy fix but, alas it's clean...

Today I'm gonna change the boost hoses and see if that makes any difference. Failing that I'll try running it without the air bleed valve and see how it goes. Failing that, I guess I'll be doing the injector seals again.

When I take it for a run later I'll stick an SD card in the Nanocom and record it all and see what it shows up, if anything.

[Markf]

On a stock TD5, 1.2 - 1.3 bar.

That's something I haven't checked yet but I will tiday.

[Markf]

On a stock TD5, 1.2 - 1.3 bar.

Hmmm. I can only get around 1.1. Coupled with the hissing noise at around 2300 rpm I'm thinking that I have a significant boost leak. Hose replacement time methinks...

The MAF is also reading low - around 47 at idle rising to about 350 at full noise.

[Tins]

I must check. I’m not sure mine is getting that much.

Operating temp. fairly steep climb, full noise, best mine can manage is 0.87 bar. And yet it goes reasonably well... Hmm, I guess a fe tweaks might surprise. No play in the turbo shaft etc, so some checks might be in order.

Sorry for the hijack.

[Tins]

Quick tweak of the wastegate and I have 1.15

[shack]

Quick tweak of the wastegate and I have 1.15I'd have another quick tweak..

In reality you possibly have a failing/leaking WGM, but adjusting it will negate that to some degree.

If I'm doing "high performance" tunes with a VGT, the WGM needs to be bang on.

[sierrafery]

Without any tuning boost below 1.3 bar is low, that was the factory setting with wastegate at 13 threads and overboost limit at 1.42 . Running with low boost even if it seems OK it's not... especially if you dont have EGT gauge.

[Tins]

I'd have another quick tweak..

In reality you possibly have a failing/leaking WGM, but adjusting it will negate that to some degree.

If I'm doing "high performance" tunes with a VGT, the WGM needs to be bang on.
It was a very quick tweak. But point taken. The WGM has always been a little sus I think.

[Tins]

Without any tuning boost below 1.3 bar is low, that was the factory setting with wastegate at 13 threads and overboost limit at 1.42 . Running with low boost even if it seems OK it's not... especially if you dont have EGT gauge.
No EGT gauge on this car. Does the ECU limit overboost through fuelling?

[shack]

No EGT gauge on this car. Does the ECU limit overboost through fuelling?No, but once you have hit an overboost situation, fuelling is reduced until an engine restart occurs.

[Tins]

No, but once you have hit an overboost situation, fuelling is reduced until an engine restart occurs.

Sorta what I meant, but that clears it up for me.

[Graeme]

My 99's boost modulator failed open allowing unlimited boost. The ecm repeatedly temporarily cut fuel on hills due to the excessive boost.

[Markf]

Well, yesterday I replaced all of the boost hoses and the horrible hissing still occurs so I reckon that among other things I have a split intercooler...[bawl]

The other thing that's suspect is the air bleed valve. I've had dramas with this in the past and the symptoms are similar. This leads me to a new question.

Can a Td5 run OK without the air bleed valve ? That is, just remove the plastic insert and run like that. I don't have a spare aid bleed valve so if I can run without it for a few days, until I can get a new one, that'd be good. If the air bleed valve is clogged that very firmly calls out the injector seals and washers. I s'pose I'd better order them (genuine of course) as I used my two sets last time I had dramas...

[shack]

Well, yesterday I replaced all of the boost hoses and the horrible hissing still occurs so I reckon that among other things I have a split intercooler...[bawl]

If you post up or send me a recording log from the instruments screen on the nanocom, I can possibly tell you if you have a leak .... Only Possibly though as your MAF may be failing.

[Markf]

If you post up or send me a recording log from the instruments screen on the nanocom, I can possibly tell you if you have a leak .... Only Possibly though as your MAF may be failing.

I tried to get a recording yesterday but my SD card failed after it wrote a few lines... Bugger. I'll do it again today with another card.

I've got a leak alright - I can hear it at around 2300 rpm. It doesn't even have to be at much power. It's most notable at the change from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. It's an auto and I assume that 2300 rpm is around max boost depending on load.

Do you have any clues as to how it'd go with the air bleed valve removed ?

[Markf]

OK. Here we go - some lovely data from the Nanocom. From a quick look I'm betting on seals and washers...[bawl] A new MAF wouldn't hurt either...

[sierrafery]

On first watch without even going into the data it's obvious that you have to replace the MAP/IAT sensor cos it's IAT side is fubar(120*C) and the engine runs like crap with that input cos the addaptive strategy for acceleration is mixed up. That's the main issue, the others are complementary for the symptom you described

[Markf]

On first watch without even going into the data it's obvious that you have to replace the MAP/IAT sensor cos it's IAT side is fubar(120*C) and the engine runs like crap with that input cos the addaptive strategy for acceleration is mixed up. That's the main issue, the others are complementary for the symptom you described

I didn't notice that before - I was concentrating on the Cylinder 1 to 5 readings and correlating them with revs and road speed. A new MAP/IAT is ordered.

Thanks for that. All I really need now is to find some genuine and local injector seals and washers. I know the MAF is also FUBAR but I can run with that unplugged without screwing the drive-ability up too much. I'm still tempted to remove the air bleed valve and see how it goes....

[sierrafery]

The air bleed valve would cause starting issues first but you can drive without it without probs... i'd not touch the seals at this point if i was you

[Markf]

The air bleed valve would cause starting issues first but you can drive without it without probs... i'd not touch the seals at this point if i was you

The reason I asked is that the symptoms are the same as when the air bleed valve was blocked a few thousand km's ago. When I cut that one open it was full of black gunk which would indicate the injector washers (or at least one of them) were leaking so I changed them then. At the moment I don't have a spare air bleed valve (one is ordered) and nor do I have a set of seals and washers so I can't change them...[bigsmile1] I'll give it a try without the air bleed valve tomorrow and report back.[bigsmile1]

[sierrafery]

The reason I asked is that the symptoms are the same as when the air bleed valve was blocked a few thousand km's ago. When I cut that one open it was full of black gunk which would indicate the injector washers (or at least one of them) were leaking so I changed them then. At the moment I don't have a spare air bleed valve (one is ordered) and nor do I have a set of seals and washers so I can't change them...[bigsmile1] I'll give it a try without the air bleed valve tomorrow and report back.[bigsmile1] Yes, when it's gunked up bad means that the copper washers were leaking combustion gas into the fuel return but in most cases it comes with hard starting as well, new copper washers should not leak so soon or if they were not replaced well the symptom should come sooner IMO... better wait untill you fit the new MAP sensor before you go for the washers again, the o-rings have nothing to do with this, if they are leaking you get fuel in the sump that's all.

[Markf]

OK today I removed the little plastic air bleed valve and gave the MAP/IAT a good clean. The air bleed valve (ABV) seems pretty black when you look at closely. The MAP/IAT was pretty grungy so I gave it a good spray with MAF cleaner and let it dry for a while before I put it back.
Anyway, here's the data from today's run plus a couple of pics of the ABV
To my way of thinking the only place the black gunk in the ABV could come from is a leaking injector washer so it looks like I'll have to get around to doing them again. Oh well, such is life in the D2 lane..[bigsmile1] So until a new ABV arrives I'll continue to put up with hard starting and running without one.

I've had a quick look at the data and I'll need a new MAF sooner rather than later too. I also need to find the source of the boost leak and rectify that as well.

[sierrafery]

Seing that the IAT reading is restored i'd say that it was a bad contact in the plug or within the sensor cos the 120 reading is the default for open or short circuit, if it was about dirty sensor it should have read lower but still some normal(ish) values so keep watching that input.

[shack]

Now that you've cleaned the map/iat it seems to be reading ok.

I can't tell you anything as regards the leak as your MAF is cactus, you could try cleaning it as well.

If that changes nothing, I'd unhook it, the car should go fine using the map sensor, and unhooking the MAF will stop fuelling switching between mass air and speed density (it'll be nicer to drive).

As regards the boost leak and dirty air bleed valve, they obviously need investigating.

[Markf]

Now that you've cleaned the map/iat it seems to be reading ok.

I can't tell you anything as regards the leak as your MAF is cactus, you could try cleaning it as well.

If that changes nothing, I'd unhook it, the car should go fine using the map sensor, and unhooking the MAF will stop fuelling switching between mass air and speed density (it'll be nicer to drive).

I've given the MAF a good clean. No change so I've just disconnected it and will run like that until I can afford a decent quality new one. I should have a new (genuine) MAP/IAT by tomorrow so I can eliminate that.


As regards the boost leak and dirty air bleed valve, they obviously need investigating.

I've changed all the boost hoses and a few weeks ago I changed the exhaust manifold gasket when it lost the first stud and started leaking. I also changed all the turbo and other exhaust gaskets at the time. I'm still trying to track down the leak but it's looking increasingly like the intercooler. Oh joy...
The grunge in the air bleed valve can only come from one place (I think) - leaking injector washers. I've ordered a new and genuine set which'll take a couple of weeks to get here. I'll run without the air bleed valve until I change the washers to save gunking up a new one.

[Markf]

Early this morning I got notification from Aust Post that my new injector washers and seals would arrive today so I had a quick brekky and started pulling the injectors out. After about and hour and a half this is what cylinder 2 and 3 injector wells looked like. I guess I now know why the air bleed valve gunks up so quickly and why I'm having trouble with it losing power. Of course the seals and washers failed to make an appearance so I s'pose I've got plenty of time to get everything nice and clean. [bigsmile1] The matching injector washers match... I guess that this is what happens when you use non-genuine parts... I knew they were cheap for a reason [bigsad]
191038191039

[Tins]

I guess that this is what happens when you use non-genuine parts... I knew they were cheap for a reason [bigsad]


Poor man pays twice... Ask me how I know.

[Markf]

Poor man pays twice... Ask me how I know.

At the time we were in the middle of WA and I got what I could get in a suitable time frame....

Anyway. Yesterday I changed them for a brand new set of o-rings and washers which are genuine.

Today I managed to be able to take it for a drive along the freeway and around town and it feels like it's running as well as it ever did. Upon examination of the recorded data from the Nanocom it looks like there may still be some slight concerns. Nothing obvious while driving though. Amway here's the data.... I sincerely hope it's fixed as we need to take our daughter and grandson to Melbourne tomorrow which is about a 200km round trip and a breakdown would be well, unthinkable....

[discorevy]

Hi Mark

I haven't read through the thread, but you either have a disconnected MAF or it's no good.

Also don't know if Nanocom misrepresents the EGR inlet as maybe the boost modulator from the looks of it ( James? ) but if you have the EGR blanked it wouldn't matter.

I can't see anything else amiss, except possibly a slightly restricted air filter.

[Markf]

Hi Mark

I haven't read through the thread, but you either have a disconnected MAF or it's no good.

The MAF is disconnected because it's no good. It, according to Nanocom, reads far too low.



Also don't know if Nanocom misrepresents the EGR inlet as maybe the boost modulator from the looks of it ( James? ) but if you have the EGR blanked it wouldn't matter.

I can't see anything else amiss, except possibly a slightly restricted air filter.

The EGR is blanked off and the air filter could probably use being replaced.

If you get rid of the clear anomalies in the cylinder balance columns it appears pretty good apart from a few small areas where it seems a bit all over the place on all cylinders. I'm guessing that these are anomalies as well. Of course not having an air bleed valve installed may be having an effect.

[shack]

Hi Mark

I haven't read through the thread, but you either have a disconnected MAF or it's no good.

Also don't know if Nanocom misrepresents the EGR inlet as maybe the boost modulator from the looks of it ( James? ) but if you have the EGR blanked it wouldn't matter.

I can't see anything else amiss, except possibly a slightly restricted air filter.The MAF is unhooked, I think that has just been replied too, and yes the nanocom does misreport some EGR values, but naturally I can't remember which one is incorrect!

[sierrafery]

I'd tighten the wastegate rod one thread at a time untill it goes to overboost then one back cos it's a bit low on boost IMO... the rest looks OK, the cylinder balance is relevant only at idle and no probs in that area.

[Markf]

I'd tighten the wastegate rod one thread at a time untill it goes to overboost then one back cos it's a bit low on boost IMO...

I believe I have a boost leak somewhere - I can hear it at about 2200 rpm.The boost hoses are all good so I think it's he intercooler. I'll investigate it over the weekend.

the rest looks OK, the cylinder balance is relevant only at idle and no probs in that area.

Thanks very much for that. You've been a fantastic help throughput this exercise.
Thanks again...[biggrin][biggrin]

[Tins]

At the time we were in the middle of WA and I got what I could get in a suitable time ..

I hear you.

[Discofender]

[QUOTE=Markf;3232508]I believe I have a boost leak somewhere - I can hear it at about 2200 rpm.

I assume you've confirmed the hissing/leaking sound is not from the exhaust manifold i.e. broken stud, warped manifold..... could explain why the turbo isn't spooling up to pressure.

Discofender

[sierrafery]

[QUOTE=Markf;3232508]I believe I have a boost leak somewhere - I can hear it at about 2200 rpm.

I assume you've confirmed the hissing/leaking sound is not from the exhaust manifold i.e. broken stud, warped manifold..... could explain why the turbo isn't spooling up to pressure.

Discofender

I'd suspect that too cos if it was a leak between the turbo and inlet manifold it should blow some black smoke under load

[Markf]

[QUOTE=Discofender;3232515]

I'd suspect that too cos if it was a leak between the turbo and inlet manifold it should blow some black smoke under load

About 1,000 km ago I lost an exhaust manifold stud so I decided to take the manifold off and check it out. It's as flat as flat can be so I cleaned everything up and replaced the studs, the manifold gasket and the turbo gasket. Since then I've checked the studs for tightness and the turbo gasket bolts a few times and they've remained tight. I suspect a split intercooler with only a small hole given the manifold and turbo gaskets are good and there are no visible signs of leakage. eg. Soot marks around the place.

[Discofender]

[QUOTE=Markf;3231981] I've changed all the boost hoses and a few weeks ago I changed the exhaust manifold gasket when it lost the first stud and started leaking. I also changed all the turbo and other exhaust gaskets at the time.

Apologies, just re-read some your thread and you had checked/worked on the manifold to head seal.....

Beginning to suspect your turbo might need a rebuild, is the output side showing much black stuff? I.e. leaking across from exhaust.....

[Markf]

Yesterday I had to play taxi of mum and dad for about 1,000km and apart from the boost leak it behaved perfectly. There is no oil leak around the rocker gasket, there is no fuel leaking into the oil, the air bleed valve is still nice and white and it flies up hills where it would previously drop out of TC lockup. Fuel consumption was good too at around high 9's l/100km.
Now all I need to do is stop the boost leak. The hoses are all good, the exhaust gaskets are all good which leaves the intercooler. I'm not looking forward to tackling that so it can wait a week or so...

Thanks to everyone for your help in getting this latest episode done with.[bigsmile1]

[AK83]

..... The hoses are all good, the exhaust gaskets are all good which leaves the intercooler. I'm not looking forward to tackling that so it can wait a week or so...

Thanks to everyone for your help in getting this latest episode done with.[bigsmile1]


Hmmm radiator ... D2 ... my experience with this is to burn down car before it drives you to insanity.

Why are cars radiator remval/intall so damned idiotic nowadays???
Just compleetely madly stupid. D2 is maybe more so than even more modern cars too(which are deliberately made stupidly idiotic).

My Peugeot 307 is stupidly odd, and the other day I watched The Car Wizard(Youtube) referring to an Audi of some kind and it's stupid radiator engineering.

For me, the D1 ... really quite simple in real terms ... it's far too much drama, where old Holdens and even semi modern Rodeo and Frontera radiator were a breeze to remove and refit by comparison.

If I were you, before I committing to doing the rad removal/IC job, I'd be looking to either buy, rent or make a smoke tester to confirm where the leak is exactly.

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

which leaves the intercooler. I'm not looking forward to tackling that so it can wait a week or so...
Could you perhaps pressure test the intercooler in situ to confirm it is leaking before ripping it out? I'm thinking a suitably sized can or other object clamped in the IC hose ends and a tyre pressure gauge + valve rigged up to the little WGM hose? We are only talking around 21 psi. Of course, soapy water test all joints to make sure it is sealed.

This thread is a bit of a master class in TD5 diagnostics and thanks to all the contributors as well as the OP for bothering to report back. Much appreciated.

[discorevy]

Shining a torch onto the intercooler core (usually where it meets the tanks, and also usually the hot alloy side ) will reveal any evidence of leaking as there are normally signs of oil stains on the leaky ones I have seen (only 2 TD5 discos).

I'm aware I might have R+R'd more than some, but it really isn't that big a job if you need to do it (takes me around 40 minutes if I don't need to remove the radiator or coolant for any other reason) and if it is leaking, then it's a good time for an upgrade, as well as to blow all the crap out of the radiator/ A/C condenser/ trans cooler cores.

I also usually take the time to strengthen the alloy pipe (even with Devcon etc if you don't want to remove and weld ) that enters the Transmission cooler as they are prone to cracking around there if lots of rough roads are on the agenda.

[Markf]

Hmmm radiator ... D2 ... my experience with this is to burn down car before it drives you to insanity.

Why are cars radiator remval/intall so damned idiotic nowadays???
Just compleetely madly stupid. D2 is maybe more so than even more modern cars too(which are deliberately made stupidly idiotic).

Oh I know about radiator stupidity. Many, many moons ago I had a Morris Cooper S Mk 1. In order to replace the fan belt you had to remove the fan shroud. In order to remove the fan shroud you had to remove the radiator. In order to remove the radiator you needed to either remove the engine or remove the body from the front sub-frame. My old Cooper S Mk 2 and my 997cc Cooper at least had two piece shrouds...

[deletia]




If I were you, before I committing to doing the rad removal/IC job, I'd be looking to either buy, rent or make a smoke tester to confirm where the leak is exactly.

Yep, for sure some method of leak detecting is the way to go rather than just trying to eyeball it.

[Tins]

Oh I know about radiator stupidity. Many, many moons ago I had a Morris Cooper S Mk 1. In order to replace the fan belt you had to remove the fan shroud. In order to remove the fan shroud you had to remove the radiator. In order to remove the radiator you needed to either remove the engine or remove the body from the front sub-frame.

Now, that's a memory hole I wish you hadn't opened.

[TonyC]

Given the oily residue in an intercooler, it will be quite obvious were it's leaking.
How is the TD5 cooling pack arranged?
Is the intercooler sandwiched between the radiator and AC condenser or oil cooler?
Can you see down between them?

Tony

[Tins]

Given the oily residue in an intercooler, it will be quite obvious were it's leaking.
How is the TD5 cooling pack arranged?
Is the intercooler sandwiched between the radiator and AC condenser or oil cooler?
Can you see down between them?

Tony
Not really. From the front you have the condenser, intercooler and transmission cooler ( IC on top) and then the rad. They are very close together. I reckon it’s a smoke tester or something has to come out, and the condenser can’t come out unless the other three do first. Rad and both coolers are a pack that come out as a unit in most cases. Got one sitting here on a shelf.

[V8Ian]

Anyone used one of these?

CRC 2.5oz Smoke Test - Bunnings New Zealand (https://www.bunnings.co.nz/crc-2-5oz-smoke-test_p0258168'srsltid=AfmBOoriqKyKIVuUXjnE1jokGLbZ TLDJ1DVue1CN7XJyB7HFHnZxqDcm)

[V8Ian]

Half the price in Australia. [tonguewink]

https://www.totaltools.com.au/207974-crc-71g-smoke-detector-spray-2105?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign={CampaignName}~{AdGroupName}&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrKu2BhDkARIsAD7GBouYUvlpkFMR_EeEgSrd gJ2XjHK88CJkAuSTZqDUOTe2DokDiVaclNAaAn3jEALw_wcB

[discorevy]

Given the oily residue in an intercooler, it will be quite obvious were it's leaking.
How is the TD5 cooling pack arranged?
Is the intercooler sandwiched between the radiator and AC condenser or oil cooler?
Can you see down between them?

Tony

Yes, as you say, it's quite obvious if it's leaking,

Yes also to the 2nd question

and for the sake of accuracy and fact in place of opinion:

A smoke machine in this case would be a waste of time unless there is a large crack, as both of the failed units I found, were leaking ( as stated before ) from the seal between the tank and core which would only let go under pressure.

Yes, you can see oil stains from these spots, yes, you can also see into the gap between the rad and cooler and even if the leak was from the front of the intercooler the oil stain would be obvious.

I don't understand the reluctance to just have a look.

Smoke machines have their place, I've used them to diagnose a myriad of TD/SDV6 issues ( and if you think it's too hard to pull an intercooler on a TD5, don't think about buying and DIYing an old D3/4 RRS.

You don't even need to drop the coolant or remove the radiator to replace the intercooler if you didn't want to.

[Markf]

A bit feedback. Since doing the washers and seals it’s running as it should. Hooray :-). The noise that sounds like a boost leak is in fact coming from a split catalytic converter. I have to say that putting in a decat pipe is not a heap of fun.

[Discofender]

Good, you've found the source of the 'leaking' gas, planning to a decat delete soon..... having recently taken the dump pipe to get access to the clutch slave cylinder I know what you mean about how difficult it is to remove..... might just get a whole new exhaust set up done by the professionals.

Discofender