Which Loctite?

[Tins]

Trying to fix a ride on mower. The diff pulley is knackered, the whole is flogged out and the woodruff key is so worn you could shave with it.
Ok, I have sourced a new pulley but I don’t have anything to measure the shaft for damage. It looks fine but… There is nothing securing the pulley to the shaft except the key and gravity. So I thought of using a retaining Loctite. Would 660 be appropriate?

[V8Ian]

Trying to fix a ride on mower. The diff pulley is knackered, the whole is flogged out and the woodruff key is so worn you could shave with it.
Ok, I have sourced a new pulley but I don’t have anything to measure the shaft for damage. It looks fine but… There is nothing securing the pulley to the shaft except the key and gravity. So I thought of using a retaining Loctite. Would 660 be appropriate?
Did you mean "the hole is wholly flogged out"?
660 would be good, but hope like hell, you're not going to be the next bloke to visit the assembly.
I use 263 on Rivnuts, a different application granted, but I reckon it should suffice in your situation.

[Tins]

This is on an old, US built Masport. The pulley drives a Dana Spicer diff ( bit smaller than the ones in the OKA ). But the pulley is approx 250mm in diameter, and the boss is around 19mm. Thus the leverage is quite a lot. Bloke said that it kept throwing belts. With around 30mm deflection or wobble I'm not surprised. People kept telling me to just weld it, but that would ruin it for later. It's quite a good machine for its age, and I hate throwing stuff away over what is really a bit of poor design, this pulley was always a point of potential failure. The pulley cannot be removed without removing the diff first, so access to use some heat on it, if it ever needs to come out again, is ok. I want it to be solid. But, I've got some 263 so I'll try that. I'd even use JB weld if the shaft is worn so the new pulley isn't a push fit.

Surprisingly, the new pulley is only $60, and can be obtained. It's not a standard V pulley, of course.

[Old Farang]

One way would be to either have the shaft metal sprayed, another way would be to build it up with a MIG welder and machine it down to size after.

A cheaper way would be to use a knurling tool to roughen up the shaft along with using Loctite.

[Tins]

Thanks. I think the shaft is harder than the pulley and the key. All the damage "seems" to be confined to those. I suppose the thing to do is wait for the new pulley to arrive and see if it's a good fit. Certainly it can't be worse than what I took off.

[eddy]

I have used Loctite Quick Metal []404 Not Found | Total Tools (https://www.totaltools.com.au/9519-loctite-50ml-quick-metal-press-fit-repair-66050ml) on a whipper snipper keyway, with success but lighter/smaller components....could be worth a try?

[loanrangie]

Drill and tap the pulley and loctite a grub screw into to, maybe even drill a shallow recess or flat for the screw to sit in so it cant fly off.

[350RRC]

I had an XW Fairmont wagon with a 302W in it.

Wouldn't start after filling it with petrol at my local garage, who used to service it. Left it with them.

After a few days they called to say they'd fixed it.

Turned out to be a worn keyway on the crank for the sprocket for the timing chain. Key was munted.

They just cleaned it up and used a new key and some sort of locktite. No probs after that.

DL

[Tins]

Drill and tap the pulley and loctite a grub screw into to, maybe even drill a shallow recess or flat for the screw to sit in so it cant fly off.

When I cleaned it up I found there was one broken E clip on the bottom and one totally missing on the top, no doubt due to the 'lateral' movement of the worn pulley. It's all back together and working fine.