Trans cooler connector woes

[DCOA]

Recently replaced the radiator in my TD5, no biggie but in the process the barb on the old trans cooler split and started leaking.

So I have replaced the trans cooler with an aftermarket one: Transmission Oil Cooler suitable for Discovery 2 Td5 Diesel Automatic (https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Transmission-Oil-Cooler-suitable-for-Discovery-2-Td5-Diesel-Automatic-Gearbox-PFZ100020/)

I managed to get the high pressure side to clip back on (It seems on at least)

But no matter what I cannot get the return line to clip on, I have fully cleaned up the push fitting and it all moves smoothly and freely. It just will not clip on.
I can get it to clip on to the old cooler though.

Is this likely just because it's new or has anyone else had bad experiences with these aftermarket coolers?

[Slunnie]

My feeling are that those lines are single connection only. Once disturbed they become prone to coming off sometime down the track.

I'd replace it.

[Tins]

Once disturbed they become prone to coming off sometime down the track.

I'd replace it.

Yes. You'd be amazed at how quickly you can purge the trans of all its fluid, and the ensuing mess is biblical. Not to mention the potential damage to the trans.

[Slunnie]

Yes. You'd be amazed at how quickly you can purge the trans of all its fluid, and the ensuing mess is biblical. Not to mention the potential damage to the trans.

Absolutely! I've done that a few times! Despite what other transmissions run, I'd always recommend these ones have proper high pressure fittings too - none of these hose clamp jobs.

[DCOA]

OK might have to bite the bullet and get new ones.

UBP101601 (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/17472/17476) and UBP101610 (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/17472/17478) correct?

[AK83]

Might pay to measure diameter of pipes.

Weird that it fits on old one but new one. I'd say diameter issue

[DCOA]

Thanks everyone for your help, naturally you were right.

I did manage to get it on, and it did manage to pop off the second it got up to highway speeds.

New lines on the way $$$

Bright side is underbody is now thoroughly rust protected.

[Slunnie]

Thanks everyone for your help, naturally you were right.

I did manage to get it on, and it did manage to pop off the second it got up to highway speeds.

New lines on the way $$$

Bright side is underbody is now thoroughly rust protected.

The Disco2 seems to run abnormally high ATF pressures when compared to other auto transmissions, which is why the majority of ATF coolers and fittings don't work with them. It probably popped off on the highway because when the torque converter is locked up the line pressure goes high. Sadly new lines needed, I was suprised at how much they cost now on your link.

[Tins]

Absolutely! I've done that a few times! Despite what other transmissions run, I'd always recommend these ones have proper high pressure fittings too - none of these hose clamp jobs.

I got Pirtek to make new lines and ditched the quick connect. Had too many hassles.

[AK83]

I got Pirtek to make new lines and ditched the quick connect. Had too many hassles.

it's weird reading comments like that from my perspective.

Every time I've had to deal with the quick connects, always a massive headache in them being immovable. The release moves, and the plug moves, but not both at the same time, and it's usually a lot of expletives and gorilla tactics that does it in the end.

Had to do again on nephews upcoming D2a, just a few days ago, and all we ended up doing was stressing the crimps to the point of leakage .. so had to then work to get that side fixed.
he did good, got a hydraulic crimp tool, had the correct die, crimped the lazily crimped bodge job that came loose whilst gorilla me trying to remove the quick connect .. crimp no longer leaking.

When mine let go a couple years back, hose came off at the crimp, but the quick connect was a hard nut to get off the pipe. In the end I gave up and pulled the rad again(I think I've already said it's one my most hated jobs on a D2) and used a spare cooler I had.

But back to the OPs issue. I'm worried(for him) that new lines may not resolve the non connecting old pipes on the new cooler.
Strange that it connects to the old cooler, but not the new cooler. From that description, I'd have been sus on the cooler.

[DCOA]

But back to the OPs issue. I'm worried(for him) that new lines may not resolve the non connecting old pipes on the new cooler.
Strange that it connects to the old cooler, but not the new cooler. From that description, I'd have been sus on the cooler.

Did eventually get both sides connected to the new cooler, It just took many attempts and eventually leaving it in the sun for a bit before it eventually clicked on, It just didn't last under highway lockup pressure but stayed on fine at local speeds.

[Tins]

OK. Mine were fine. Didn't even really know of their existence... Until I had a trans die ( failure had nothing to do with these connectors ). I had the trans "rebuilt" by someone who will remain nameless due to the "Name and shame" policy. 800k later the pipe popped off, high power situation. Cleaned it, refitted and refilled. Blew again next day. Had it towed back to 'see above'. "All fixed".... yeah, right. blew again, only this time it lunched the A clutch. Admittedly, this wasn't fixed right in the first place. This began a whole saga I have no intention of going into again. Another trans was sourced and fitted by a different indie. Blew again. Trans failed, again. So, I sourced a trans myself, fitted it myself. Connector blew off after maybe ten k. That did it. Removed pipes. Pirtek tigged new connector and hose to my pipes, refitted and never looked back. Fitting the hoses to the cooler was a PITA, but I did it without removing the rad. I did one on the side of the road where it had stopped.

I will never trust those kwik connectors ever again. This whole excursion left a very sour taste. And many trails of ATF.

[RRT]

OK. Mine were fine. Didn't even really know of their existence... Until I had a trans die ( failure had nothing to do with these connectors ). I had the trans "rebuilt" by someone who will remain nameless due to the "Name and shame" policy. 800k later the pipe popped off, high power situation. Cleaned it, refitted and refilled. Blew again next day. Had it towed back to 'see above'. "All fixed".... yeah, right. blew again, only this time it lunched the A clutch. Admittedly, this wasn't fixed right in the first place. This began a whole saga I have no intention of going into again. Another trans was sourced and fitted by a different indie. Blew again. Trans failed, again. So, I sourced a trans myself, fitted it myself. Connector blew off after maybe ten k. That did it. Removed pipes. Pirtek tigged new connector and hose to my pipes, refitted and never looked back. Fitting the hoses to the cooler was a PITA, but I did it without removing the rad. I did one on the side of the road where it had stopped.

I will never trust those kwik connectors ever again. This whole excursion left a very sour taste. And many trails of ATF.

The other option with this is using the larger P38 cooler, which is screwed not pushed on. This is larger but will fit with modification for the attachement. For this did change the attachement on the cooler pipes from the transmission as well.

[Slunnie]

The other option with this is using the larger P38 cooler, which is screwed not pushed on. This is larger but will fit with modification for the attachement. For this did change the attachement on the cooler pipes from the transmission as well.

With that conversion, do you modify the D2 lines or run the P38 lines?

[Tins]

With that conversion, do you modify the D2 lines or run the P38 lines?

I'm not sure it would matter if you did what I did. I could have had any length/fitting flex hose combo I wanted fitted by the hose mob. Of course, my arrangement could cause issues down the track, as I will always need to use the hose mobs for any future repairs. Not sure I care though. Reckon it will see me out.

[RRT]

With that conversion, do you modify the D2 lines or run the P38 lines?

New lines from the previous push attachments and due to ths tightness of the area, 90 degree bends at the cooler, the only modification needed was the small plate for attachment, really simple.

191530

191531

191532

191533

[DCOA]

New hoses arrived today and installed, Too scared to take it up to highway speed again just yet but a good blast around town and new hoses stayed on.

I can already tell for the next few weeks I will be playing the "oh no is it leaking or is this still just residue from when i pumped 10l of atf into the radiator fins" game.

[Slunnie]

New hoses arrived today and installed, Too scared to take it up to highway speed again just yet but a good blast around town and new hoses stayed on.

I can already tell for the next few weeks I will be playing the "oh no is it leaking or is this still just residue from when i pumped 10l of atf into the radiator fins" game.

Sure will! :lol2:

Your biggest risk will be when the torque converter is locked up.

[Tins]

I can already tell for the next few weeks I will be playing the "oh no is it leaking or is this still just residue from when i pumped 10l of atf into the radiator fins" game.

It stays in the back of my mind even now...[bigsad]

[AK83]

LOL! same here when mine popped at the crimp ... are these ones going to fail soon, take it easy everywhere ... took the D1 on any highway trips, and D2 only for getting to work through city only.

I think this is normal reaction.

[ross_coupland]

I have a manual model, and it also has the trans cooler up the front. I've bought a genuine cooler and had the fittings changed to screw-on. I had Enzed make up two new lines with correct fittings on the end. I actually bought a set of old lines from a wrecker to do this. In all, it was a bit of a nightmare getting it all sorted tbh, and I haven't dared install them yet.

[Epic_Dragon]

Those transmission lines are a discos kryptonite i swear [emoji28]
I run an allisort transmission cooler now, but had to barb where transmission lines attach, and double hose clamp. the old one with the factory lines just never stayed. I'm sure there's some really good fittings options but the big barb and double hose clamp has solved it for me :)