Front up n down while driving

[Disclarkery4]

Hi guys, I am 99% certain there's no air leaks any more, yet I still have the front go up and down intermittently... would it be the sensors? They've never been replaced

[BradC]

Do you have a diagnostic tool? When I had an issue with my front valve block, it was incredibly helpful to be able to display the 4 sensors on the screen in "real time" to watch what was going on.

Mine is a 2008 and still on its first set of sensors. They are electro-mechanical potentiometers, so I'm sure they wear out but it's not something I've seen as a common issue.

[Disclarkery4]

Yes I've got the iidgap tool. I'll take it for a drive with it connected and see if I can pin point it

[Eric SDV6SE]

They may still be ok but need recalibrating. There's set dimensions from the ground to the top of each wheel arch that you need to aim for, by adjusting the offset in each corner.

[Disclarkery4]

Yep yep, I did the calibration to measurement on each corner.
It's probably because the ball joints and 2 of the lower control ambushes are worn, so much so that the ball joints click sometimes...

[Tins]

Yep yep, I did the calibration to measurement on each corner.
It's probably because the ball joints and 2 of the lower control ambushes are worn, so much so that the ball joints click sometimes...
Sounds like you have bigger issues than just ride height. Reckon you could fix those first.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Yep yep, I did the calibration to measurement on each corner.
It's probably because the ball joints and 2 of the lower control ambushes are worn, so much so that the ball joints click sometimes...

Probably the #1reason then, the sensors doesn't know where to set the height as it's constantly changing geometry of the upper and lower arms.

Get the Mehle HD replacement arms, complete with bushes and ball joints, easier to change out than removing bushes and splitting ball joints from the arms.

[DieselLSE]

Get the Mehle HD replacement arms, complete with bushes and ball joints, easier to change out than removing bushes and splitting ball joints from the arms.
Yes. You could do this. Or you could get genuine arms which would be my recommendation. In either event, make sure you have the ability, workshop manual and tools to change them over. And that you can get it to a wheel alignment place that understands that the suspension needs to be placed into TTL mode.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Yes, can do that, however the mehle kit has oversized ball joints (35mm over 32mm from memory) and the bushes in the lower arm are better as not being the prone to failure hydra-bush. So a better solution imho.

[discomatt69]

Are the heavy duty arms mentioned rubber or poly bushings?

[Disclarkery4]

Just black rubber ones mate

[Disclarkery4]

Eric , diesel and tins,
I have the arms to install.
I'll see how that goes

[Disclarkery4]

Thanks everyone

[Tombie]

Yes, can do that, however the mehle kit has oversized ball joints (35mm over 32mm from memory) and the bushes in the lower arm are better as not being the prone to failure hydra-bush. So a better solution imho.

Only if its a mall crawler...

The hydrobush is design such that the vehicles articulation is excellent. Anything stiffer reduces articulation and places added stress to the rear bush mount.
The extreme end of this is urethane bushes, which have on multiple occasions, split the bushing mount completely.

[loanrangie]

Only if its a mall crawler...

The hydrobush is design such that the vehicles articulation is excellent. Anything stiffer reduces articulation and places added stress to the rear bush mount.
The extreme end of this is urethane bushes, which have on multiple occasions, split the bushing mount completely.


Being that the its only the rear bush that is different you would never know the difference, about to do my second set of bushes on genuine arms after 5 years 80k and fitting meyle hd again.

[Tombie]

Being that the its only the rear bush that is different you would never know the difference, about to do my second set of bushes on genuine arms after 5 years 80k and fitting meyle hd again.

The rear bush is the key flex point - it’s noticeable.
I’m only on my 2nd replacement hydra-bushes in 210,000km.

Driven a friends D4 with MHD and ride and offroad is notably different.

[discomatt69]

When I had the dreaded clunk my mechanic advised poly bush as a replacement and said his other customers were happy with them, against my better judgment I went ahead with them.
Felt great around town and just slow local driving, did one decent length trip and they are crap at speed, crap on rough roads, worse on dirt corrugated roads, atrocious off road
went back and got new arms with hydro bushes, now it’s back to how it should be and how LR designed it to be
who cares how long they last

[loanrangie]

I would never use poly but the Meyle rubber are good and dont restrict flex at all, i highly doubt you could tell the difference since its only the rear bush that has a different construction.
Maybe using the complete meyle hd arms but these would still be no different to factory armoured or HD arms, anyway each to their own.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Agree on poly being no good, I had them in for a short while on the front sway bar, took them out quick smart as it was just too harsh
Never noticed any change in off road behaviour between JLR and Meyhle LCA's.

Imho Adjustable sway bar linkages made the most difference, being able to adjust that side to side flex was great.