Turbo/boost problems?

[V8Ian]

When I bought my D2a, seven or eight years ago, it was a slug. It hasn't improved since, despite minor fiddling with the wastegate adjustment, new silicone hoses, new MAF and MAP and the regular fuel and air filter replacements.
Full noise it struggles to push .7 bar of boost, according to the Nanocom.
I have a brand new 191594, apart from the bracketry and fancy anodized finish, is there any difference between them. In other words, are they model specific?

Some time ago Discorevy (?) recommended an upgraded turbo core, was it this one?
Enhanced Turbo Land Rover Defender Discovery TD5 452239 Hybrid Turbocharger CHRA Cartridge (https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/enhanced-turbo-land-rover-defender-discovery-td5-452239-hybrid-turbocharger-chra-cartridge)
Can they be fitted in the home shed, or do they need specialist fitting and balancing?

[Graeme]

Has the wastegate modulator ever been replaced?

[V8Ian]

wastegate modulator, being the anodized diaphragm thingy pictured? Not to my knowledge. Or any other major bits.

[shack]

Has the wastegate modulator ever been replaced?Good call.

The upgraded turbo core won't really make much (if any) extra boost than the stock one.

If you have a nanocom, post a log of it under performing, and someone (possibly even me), will take a look.

Cheers

[V8Ian]

Good call.

The upgraded turbo core won't really make much (if any) extra boost than the stock one.

If you have a nanocom, post a log of it under performing, and someone (possibly even me), will take a look.

Cheers
[bigrolf] I'll ask Chook if he can help me.

[shack]

The item Graeme was referring to is the electronic gizmo bolted (from memory) onto the A/C compressor. Has 3 little hoses going to it, one runs to the thing you put a picture up of.

[V8Ian]

Good call.

The upgraded turbo core won't really make much (if any) extra boost than the stock one.

If you have a nanocom, post a log of it under performing, and someone (possibly even me), will take a look.

Cheers
That actually leads into my next question, if I replace the turbo, where do I get a sensible remap? Definitely not looking to be the first away from the lights, but would appreciate a bit more low and midrange torque.

[V8Ian]

The item Graeme was referring to is the electronic gizmo bolted (from memory) onto the A/C compressor. Has 3 little hoses going to it, one runs to the thing you put a picture up of.

I'll look over the weekend, but doubt it's ever been changed. Heck, the car only clicked over 250,000 km this week. Is nothing made to last, any more? [wink11]

[discorevy]

[bigrolf] I'll ask Chook if he can help me.

Ask him if he can check that the actual wastegate isn't stuck partially open when he's there.

James is the one for your "sensible" remap, after the problem has been addressed.

Happily, apart from minor niggles, the rest of the Car is made to last. If it has been properly serviced, you can expect at least 700 000 odd kilometres from that engine before a rebuild is on the cards.

[Graeme]

Heck, the car only clicked over 250,000 km this week. Is nothing made to last, any more? [wink11]The one in my new '99 failed within a couple of months, just slightly less than your 250K. However its failure was to not limit boost at all which caused fuel cut-out under any sort of load.

[Discofender]

Just replaced my boost modulator a month ago, but I was logging overboost which was then cutting fuel and making it hesitate and surge. A quick job to change if your boost lines aren't too brittle.

I'm running a hybrid core but didn't notice any real difference when I changed it a few years ago.Thought it might help with lag, but only changing to VGT or VNT turbo will really do that I have a VGT in the Td5 Deafner that has no lag.

Discofender

[sierrafery]

Full noise it struggles to push .7 bar of boost, according to the Nanocom.That's very low, how many threads are left out from the wastegate actuator's rod? ... from factory there should be 13 threads from the locknut for 1.3 bar boost. A well working engine can accept 2 to 3 threads tighter before going to overboost but at so low boost i doubt it has much effect as the wastegate should start opening at around 1 bar so at 0.7 the actuator would not even move... make sure that the wastegate is not stuck open

IMO in your case it might be a boost leak, intake or exhaust restriction or fuelling issue... as already mentioned by mr @shack better save an "inputs fuelling" log on SD card as to catch some "full noise" moments and post it here

a simple check if you can afford some noise where you are would be to undo partially the exhaust downpipe from the turbo as to release some flow there and see how it goes that way cos a quite common issue on facelifts is clogged catalyst then the boost can't rise

you must fix it to run as it left the factory(at least 1.3 bar boost) before a remap otherwise you'll just "boost up" an existing issue

[V8Ian]

I've had a quick look, to my knowledge the modulator has not been changed. Are they a generic part, or Land Rover specific?
I'm getting various amounts of boost, today it was reading .9 and driving much better. Later the boost fell to .8. There is no missing/surging.

I'll post this video for anyone doing a search, in future.


https://youtu.be/YXhd2f11ZRk'si=UnkwNFUnjwS0uAhH

[Graeme]

The modulator can be bypassed by connecting a hose from the turbo outlet to the wastegate actuator to have base boost of 1 bar if the actuator is adjusted to factory specs. The 3rd hose to the modulator should be blocked.

[discorevy]

I've had a quick look, to my knowledge the modulator has not been changed. Are they a generic part, or Land Rover specific?
I'm getting various amounts of boost, today it was reading .9 and driving much better. Later the boost fell to .8. There is no missing/surging.

I'll post this video for anyone doing a search, in future.

Defenders don't have modulators, only the Disco Td5's.

The vid is showing ( and making a meal out of it ) him removing the actuator, not the modulator.

FWIW, I have not seen a modulator fail in this way, they have all failed by causing over boost.

You don't drill the rivets out unless the Bracket Bolt is seized ( or butchered previously )

10 seconds of time to remove the air box top and intake pipe would have made his life easier.

No need to undo the 10mm head lock nut on the actuator rod shaft either.

If your wastegate is stuck open you wont get the "surging" from ECU boost cut, just low performance.

The fault shown in the vid would have been from the wastegate being stuck partially closed.

I'm not saying this is definitely the problem, but that it could be. We'll wait for "Chook" to post a log.

[sierrafery]

When the modulator fails it usually creates overboost as nothing passes through it to the actuator, if you unplug it's electrical connector it should be like bypassed as it's N/O. When the ignition is turned on the modulator closes as no boost to be wasted untill 1 bar is reached then the ECU starts to deliver PWM pulses to open it as to manage an optimal boost curve untill the set limit which is adjustable with the threaded rod... Though as long as you don't get more than 1 bar boost the wastegate is no factor as long as it's not stuck open. Clamp the hose to the actuator and go for a ride then, it should go to overboost on first kickdown and if it doesnt the problem is not in that area but there is not enough boost for other reason(leak, restriction or fuelling)

[V8Ian]

I was going to drill the rivets and replace them with rivnuts, spring washers and bolts.

[discorevy]

I was going to drill the rivets and replace them with rivnuts, spring washers and bolts.

Yep, it'd work, I've only had dramas when the bracket bolt has been butchered, usually use a 10mm ratchet spanner and fingers get it out in seconds, but leave out the spring washers and use hex serrated flange bolts if you're going to Rivnut it.

[Discofender]

Here's a link to one of the better videos on the modulator, runs through the how and why it operates, and then changes one. I'm not sure it's as important as he says for protecting the engine as my Defender Td5 seems to do ok without one.

https://youtu.be/hPnhG5-_MoI'si=Mwf6rNXY4abs-XPc

Discofender

[sierrafery]

Here's a link to one of the better videos on the modulator, runs through the how and why it operates, and then changes one. I'm not sure it's as important as he says for protecting the engine as my Defender Td5 seems to do ok without one.
https://youtu.be/hPnhG5-_MoI?feature=shared

Discofender
I'm 100% sure that it has nothing to do with engine protection, especially not to protect the engine from overboost as the man states in the video, on the contrary it's there to improve the boost curve by not letting the wastegate to open at lower revs and controll the amount of wasted boost at higher. If it fails there's no way to damage the engine whatsoever. Unfortunately Youtube is full of all kind of "experts" who dont really know what they are talking about.

[V8Ian]

Yep, it'd work, I've only had dramas when the bracket bolt has been butchered, usually use a 10mm ratchet spanner and fingers get it out in seconds, but leave out the spring washers and use hex serrated flange bolts if you're going to Rivnut it.
Mine looks like it's never been removed.

[V8Ian]

Is the wastegate actuator vehicle specific, or can I use the new (Subaru) one I have here?

[sierrafery]

Is the wastegate actuator vehicle specific, or can I use the new (Subaru) one I have here?
They are turbo specific though it might work if you test it first to be boost not vacuum valve with similar power spring and the rod has the same "travel", if you apply pressure with a pump or compressor to it's port the rod must be pushed out the same as the original.... though i must insist that as long as you dont get overboost with clamped actuator pipe that valve would have no effect at all

[Tins]

Mine looks like it's never been removed.

At 350,000km, neither does mine. Be careful you don't get tunnel vision on this, Ian. You've been given some good pointers.

[shack]

I'd suggest that nothing needs doing until we can see a log, there are many reasons for low boost.

Strangely enough the least likely causes of low boost are faulty turbo or actuator and WGM... But it could be one of those for sure.

The log will help isolate it without spending time and money loading the parts cannon.

Only a suggestion though.

[V8Ian]

I'll try to work out how to do a log, then check the wastegate is free. Then spend money, I don't have, as required.

[V8Ian]

Right, there's half a day just to format the SD card. How do I now record the data, then transfer it to here?

[FNQLR]

Right, there's half a day just to format the SD card. How do I now record the data, then transfer it to here?


I'd take it for a spin with the air box cover off and filter removed and the cat converter down pipe removed as well.
Both of these were boost issues on mine (restrictive snorkle and clogged cat)

More fun than formatting an sd card

[sierrafery]

Right, there's half a day just to format the SD card. How do I now record the data, then transfer it to here?
Start the engine, go to "inputs fuelling", click on the card icon bottom right, name it and follow the steps untill it starts recording, go for a ride, at the end save then downolad the data from SD card to laptop, convert to excel(or use CSV viewer) and attach the file to forum

[shack]

I think the nanocom saves the file as a CSV, so no converting is needed, just upload it.

If you can't attach it here, PM me and I'll help upload it.

[d2dave]

My modulator failed many years ago at about 160,000 km.

I drove it to Melb with Nanocom connected. Every so often ECU would would reduce power.

Whilst driving I would clear the fault and get power back.

I got a new one and fitted it out the front of the stealer.

[V8Ian]

191635

Where do I go from here?

[shack]

191635

Where do I go from here?That looks like the sbl folder on an SD card that has been formatted with the black box software for canbus vehicle compatibility.

The file you saved (if you did it successfully) would be one folder back from that, i.e the main folder.

What did you name the file when you saved the recording?

[V8Ian]

Thats what appeared when I opened D drive.When I formatted the card, there were two options to format, I chose the not canbus one.When trying to create the log, I don't recall an option to name the file.I might put the card back in the Nanocom and see if I can read it from there, tomorrow. I've been struggling with dodgy internet and power this week. Oh the joys of not living in Queen Street.

[Tins]

191640

[Tins]

191641

[V8Ian]

I think I've found the problem, not the one with low boost, the one with the Nanocom. The Nanocom can only use a 4gb card, I've been using a 16gb. 4 seems to be ancient tech and unobtainable.

[shack]

I think I've found the problem, not the one with low boost, the one with the Nanocom. The Nanocom can only use a 4gb card, I've been using a 16gb. 4 seems to be ancient tech and unobtainable.I'm not sure that's strictly true, however not all cards - irrespective of size will work.

I usually use any old micro SD card I can find and put it in an adaptor.

[V8Ian]

I'm not sure that's strictly true, however not all cards - irrespective of size will work.

I usually use any old micro SD card I can find and put it in an adaptor.

Maybe if I file a bit off my 16gb. [bigwhistle]

[Tins]

Mine is happy with 16. But perhaps that's why it can get sullen sometimes and want reformatting...

[sierrafery]

IIRC(but it was very long time ago) i pushed a Kingston 16gb into nanocom out of the box without any formatting it and it worked without probs

[V8Ian]

Is there any downside to this bodge?


https://youtu.be/XxvBERA8C8s'si=970kDjM06Evbwjn6

[sierrafery]

I should charge that guy for using my "invention":woot: How to completely get rid of MAF on de-EGR'd TD5 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/201719-how-completely-get-rid-maf-de-egrd-td5.html) ...so i thought it's a good ideea 10 years ago when i knew too little about Td5 EMS(kind'a like the guy in the video) but now after 10 years of hard study and experience i can tell that it's not a good ideea for Eu3 engines(albeit it worked well for some competition defenders) and for Eu2 is useless....i still have it on mine cos it keeps me free of air flow fault codes as i have a straight through pipe to the turbo with no MAF at all but i dont see other benefits of it

[V8Ian]

Revisiting this as I can barely afford the fuel bills. I'm using about 25-30% more fuel than usual.
The big memory card upset the Nanocom, to the point that the screen wants to reboot. I have no idea how to do that, so i approached the issue from a mechanical point of view.
Without disconnecting the waste gate from the vacuum controller, I undid the latter from its bracket. I couldn't get enought free play to properly lift it out, but could move it against the spring. The waste gate lever wouldn't move, so I removed the heat shield and with some difficulty due to the tension from the vacuum controller, disconnected the actuation lever. The waste gate moved freely. I'm wondering if the arm is too short. Surely, if anything that would prevent the waste gate opening.
First question, what type of valve is the waste gate and can it leak in the closed position?
Second question, how is the gate to actuator adjusted?

EDIT: Performance is almost acceptable, except when climbing Toowoomba Range, if sport mode is selected.

[sierrafery]

.....The waste gate lever wouldn't move, so I removed the heat shield and with some difficulty due to the tension from the vacuum controller, disconnected the actuation lever. The waste gate moved freely. I'm wondering if the arm is too short. Surely, if anything that would prevent the waste gate opening.
First question, what type of valve is the waste gate and can it leak in the closed position?
Second question, how is the gate to actuator adjusted?


Hi, i'll try in some order the best way i can:
1. the wastegate actuator rod doesnt move too easy cos it has a strong spring inside, you need some force to move it
2. it's no vacuum there only boost which pushes the rod out as to open the wastegate(the description in RAVE in this particular case is wrong)
3. the wastegate is like in the attached pic(completely open there), that "flap" is normally closed as the arrow shows and when the boost is rising the actuator opens it gradually... long time ago i saw one which leaked there due to deposits which didnt let the flap to close completely but in your case i'd rather suspect the cartridge to be worn if a fuelling issue was completely ruled out.

4. if you have much bigger than standard tyres and no remap for that it can be the root of your issue

[V8Ian]

So there is a possibility that the waste gate does not seal due to carbon build up on the seat or a burnt closure.
I think the root problem is low boost. I have never seen better than .9 bar, when it's running well. The boost is eratic, fluctuating from .5 to .9. It could be something other than a mechanical issue, of course.
I've owned this car for 8ish years. When I first drove it I thought it was a slug, but put that down to stepping from a 4 litre Barra petrol powered sedan, into a 2½ litre diesel 4x4.
It was embarrassing when Jerry's Tdi 200 left me in the dust.

[sierrafery]

So there is a possibility that the waste gate does not seal due to carbon build up on the seat or a burnt closure.

In theory it's possible... also ONLY in theory it's possible that the flap has somehow lost the connection with the external lever and it's freely flopping inside(would be a big surprise to see such thing but not impossible)

[AK83]

I should have replied yesterday to what I did:

My recently acquired D2a had issue with low boost too.
Stupid me didn't notice it until a few days later, but on the nanocom in gauge mode, clearly easy to see.
Most of the time it was running about 0.2 to 0.3 Bar.
I had two thoughts, either WGM or stuck/sticking wastegate.
sticking waste gate is easy to find.
if you have access to compressed air, doesn't need to be shop air(ie. 100psi) but any way to create about 15 psi(1 bar) ... disconnect the small hose on the can and connect the air supply to that.
If you use shop air, be gentle, just give it a small dose. I got one of those air blower thingies ... blow out blocked ports and stuff ... small hose on the end connected to the can on the wastegate actuator. the waste gate will pop open.
if you supply too much air, the hose will pop off the can or the air gun device. when it pops off the wastegate should snap shut with force.

Mine didn't .. ie. stuck open, hence exhaust gasses not building up to provide boost.

Spray the wastegate spindle with lube spray(INOX/WD/whatever) .. then use gun with hose again a few times. give it some berries allow the hose to pop off, give it more, hose pops again .. etc. repeat a few times just to be sure.

Now I see around 0.6-0.7 on a steady cruise(on the gauges on nanocom), sometimes into headwind, with tailwind I'm getting (for example) 0.4-ish. a slight incline will see close to 0.8-0.9 or bang on 1 bar .. obviously depends on the conditions.

I still have a wee bit of an issue in that I have yet to see more than 1.2bar(I thought 1.4bar was a normal max) .. so still got some chasing to do, but I haven't yet driven the hills up to Bendigo since the lube spray on the wastegate spindle, but I think it's good for now.

But I had the same 'lame' issue driving to and from, where I had trucks flying past me where I was struggling at 60-70k/h on the Bendigo-Melb run.

I've been used to both a remapped TD5(that's killing it's torque converter! [bawl]) and Tdi that struggles(new turbo cartridge fitting soon) .. and I just put it down to an unmapped TD5.
Still not as strong as the mapped TD5, this is very obvious at low engine revs, but at about 2500rpm, now they feel less dissimilar(D2 vs D2a).
I say that, but I'm very granma-ish with the slipping TC on the D2.(plans for a V8 TC for that one soon too).

If you dont' see low 1.2 - 1.4 bar on the nanocom for high boost situations(eg. 3000+rpm lots of right pedal) .. then just because it's easy to do spray spindle on wastegate, annd if you don't have air to move it a few times, hope it comes good on it's own when driving along.

[discorevy]

This messes with my head, it affects the possibly slightly OCD trait I have that all vehicles that I know about should run as they are meant to[tonguewink].

Even a stock TD5 running well isn't the quickest car by a fair margin ( easily sorted with good mapping ) but if .5-.9 bar is all you're getting, I reckon even an old 2.2 litre diesel hilux would seem sporty.

I hope someone who lives close to Ian and can drive a nanocom would please post a log so we can sort this, if not, then maybe take it to someone who knows their way around a TD5.

Eight and a half years..... My god, for me, this'd be like being strapped to a chair with a cobweb dangling over my eyelid.

[shack]

for me, this'd be like being strapped to a chair with a cobweb dangling over my eyelid.

What sort of chair?

[discorevy]

What sort of chair?

Chair man Mao's chair

[V8Ian]

How many intercooler hoses are there supposed to be? I bought a silicon set from Mario, it had three hoses. When I asked an "expert" to fit them, there was one left over. He said it was a multi fit kit and the third one was excess. Possible, but judging by the ability and quality of other work he undertook, I'm not confident.

[V8Ian]

This messes with my head, it affects the possibly slightly OCD trait I have that all vehicles that I know about should run as they are meant to[tonguewink].

Even a stock TD5 running well isn't the quickest car by a fair margin ( easily sorted with good mapping ) but if .5-.9 bar is all you're getting, I reckon even an old 2.2 litre diesel hilux would seem sporty.

I hope someone who lives close to Ian and can drive a nanocom would please post a log so we can sort this, if not, then maybe take it to someone who knows their way around a TD5.

Eight and a half years..... My god, for me, this'd be like being strapped to a chair with a cobweb dangling over my eyelid.

I must admit it gets a bit embarrassing when road trains I've overtaken on the Gatton Bypass catch and pass me climbing Toowoomba Range. One learns to assume a look of deliberately slowing down, to admire the view. [bigrolf]

[shack]

How many intercooler hoses are there supposed to be? I bought a silicon set from Mario, it had three hoses. When I asked an "expert" to fit them, there was one left over. He said it was a multi fit kit and the third one was excess. Possible, but judging by the ability and quality of other work he undertook, I'm not confident.I think the 4th hose is for vehicles with ace.

[shack]

Chair man Mao's chairQuite comfy apart from the cobweb...

[V8Ian]

I think the 4th hose is for vehicles with ace.
4th or 3rd?

[shack]

I THINK it's the 4th...

One hose from the intercooler to the inlet manifold, one from the turbo to the steel intercooler feed in pipe, one from that pipe to the intercooler.

That makes 3.

Number 4 is to route it around the ace pump if you have one.

[discorevy]

Quite comfy apart from the cobweb...

Yes, that, and 6 of his Mauser laden henchmen, about to blow the cobweb away.

[discorevy]

4th or 3rd?

The "multi fit kits" as James said, came with the 4 hoses ( 1 longer intermediate hose was for ACE vehicles) , the 1st hose from the turbo was usually the one to delaminate.

so many variables, EGR if fitted, head work ( or other ) being done with incorrect cam timing, Injector clearances, boost leaks, turbo faults etc, and that's just some of the hardware stuff, however, a log can help zero in on stuff.

You won't know the car when it's fixed. Pulling past the same road trains on that Gatton bypass, passenger window down, giving it the bird.

[V8Ian]

I THINK it's the 4th...

One hose from the intercooler to the inlet manifold, one from the turbo to the steel intercooler feed in pipe, one from that pipe to the intercooler.

That makes 3.

Number 4 is to route it around the ace pump if you have one.

My car has ACE, yet I have a hose left over. I'll have a look around tomorrow. It must have been too hard for my "expert" to find. He forgot to tighten the hose off the turbo. :bat:

[hankdusty]

ive got ace also and only got three hoses from allisport, cant see where a 4th would go?



One hose from the intercooler to the inlet manifold, one from the turbo to the steel intercooler feed in pipe, one from that pipe to the intercooler.

[shack]

I think you only ever use 3 hoses.

2 of the hoses always get used, 3 and 4 get interchanged depending on whether the car has ace or not.

[V8Ian]

After confirming the w/g was operating freely I roughly reassembled the car, so
I could go to the big smoke for new hardware to bolt the heat shield on properly.
I had to lengthen the actuation rod 12~14 mm, to reconnect. It has not been adjusted since reassembly.
It is definitely running better and revving freely, in comparison to the earlier, short rod. From (a somewhat dodgy) memory, there should be 8 +/- threads exposed, correct? Is the count from the adjuster or locknut?
I'm not claiming victory yet, as everything I've tried thus far has resulted in a slight but temporary improvement.

[shack]

I think 12 threads was factory.

If you shorten the rod it will make higher boost from around 2000rpm and up.

[V8Ian]

I'm wondering if the rod was too short, overboosting forcing the ECU to cut fuel. To contradict that theory, I never saw boost reach 1 bar and even when running poorly, it ran smoothly but struggled to rev above 3,000.
When the motor has cooled down I'll go and tidy up the heat shield and fiddle with the adjustment.

[shack]

1.42 bar boost is the factory limit.

It should log a fault if this was reached

[V8Ian]

Where does the boost signal come from, the gadget on the other end of the line into the actuator? It has never been replaced in my ownership. Are they still available?
If that dohicky was underreading the boost, obviously giving the Nano a low reading via the ECU, wouldn't that make the car go like a cut snake, or would the ECU starve the motor for fuel?

[shack]

Boost is measured in the inlet manifold on the drivers side of the car (AU).

The other thing you may be looking at is the wastegate modulator, it has 3 hoses hooked up to it and a 2 pin electric plug. That blends boost air and ambient air to operate the wastegate as the ECU decides.

[shack]

If that dohicky was underreading the boost, obviously giving the Nano a low reading via the ECU, wouldn't that make the car go like a cut snake, or would the ECU starve the motor for fuel?

On an early (EU2) engine, if it was under reading, the car would be pretty slow, on an EU3 it would go fine as the MAF is used for fuelling, but you would lose correct operation of your turbo and from memory... your EGT protection routines.

[sierrafery]

IMO the discussion went all over the place in this long topic and seems that two simple tests i recommended at the beginning(page 2) were missed while i think it's relevant:
1. clamp(or undo and clog) the hose coming from the wastegate modulator to the actuator and go for a ride then, it should go to overboost on first kickdown and if it doesnt the problem is not in the wastegate area but there is low boost for other reason(leak, restriction or fuelling)... for overboost it accelerates well up to around 2500rpm then the ECU cuts the fuelling and logs an overboost fault code...if that doesnt happen everything discussed about the wastegate is futile cos no boost is wastead being low
2. if no overboost a simple check if you can afford some noise where you live would be to undo partially the exhaust downpipe from the turbo as to release some flow there and see how it goes that way cos a quite common issue on facelifts is clogged catalyst then the boost can't rise due to the exhaust's restricted flow

[V8Ian]

Noise is my second name! I might cut the cat out and weld a plain pipe in there. Bonus, the cat would be worth a bit as scrap. [biggrin]

[V8Ian]

Checked, mine does have a cat. I'm away for a couple of weeks, when I get back I'll make some noise.

[Graeme]

...it ran smoothly but struggled to rev above 3,000.
From memory, 3000 is maximum rpm when the injectors haven't been coded correctly or haven't been coded at all. Can this be checked?

[V8Ian]

Not by me, my Nanocom seems to have died. But on the way east this morning it did seem to be improved, revving to almost 3500 rpm, but I wasn't pushing hard. Still doesn't like hills.

[shack]

From memory, 3000 is maximum rpm when the injectors haven't been coded correctly or haven't been coded at all. Can this be checked?Correct, if they haven't been coded at all you should get a pretty hard cut at 3k rpm.

[V8Ian]

Obviously that's not the problem then. I've also been running a diesel fuel system cleaner, for the last ~8 refills. That has made no difference.

[Tins]

SF has probably nailed it. I was going to suggest a blocked exhaust or a failed turbo next. Decat it.

[Tins]

Oh, and I thought all your names were 'noise'.

[d2dave]

IMO the discussion went all over the place in this long topic and seems that two simple tests i recommended at the beginning(page 2) were missed while i think it's relevant:

2. if no overboost a simple check if you can afford some noise where you live would be to undo partially the exhaust downpipe from the turbo as to release some flometimes the rattle would stoow there and see how it goes that way cos a quite common issue on facelifts is clogged catalyst then the boost can't rise due to the exhaust's restricted flow


This jogged my memory. I had an issue many years ago with intermitent power loss. I could hear a bit of a rattle in the cat. Some times the rattle would stop and I would be low on power.
In my case it was turn off engine alowing what was causing the blockage to fall away.
Some times it needed a good kick to dislodge it.