Seeking advice on newly acquired '08 Puma

[TM86]

Hi All,
I have just bought a '08 Puma Defender (2.4L), which is my return to Land Rover ownership after a 15-year hiatus (had a '93 200tdi Defender until 2009). The vehicle has something of a sketchy maintenance history, so I am looking for advice on things to look out for. Based on the receipts that were included in the vehicle, this is what has been documented to have occurred over its life:


2008 build - Purchased 23/1/09 at Southern 4WD Authority (Cannington, WA)

1. 6/7/09 – 10 283 km
- Service
- Oil = MAG PROFF C3 5W/40

2. 26/3/10 – 10 309 km
- Service
- Driver’s exterior door handle replaced
- Recall – Engine Q068 (unsure what this was for - maybe REC-003266 - Jaguar Land Rover Australia trading as Land Rover Australia - LAND ROVER Defender | Vehicle Recalls (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/rec-003266) ?)
- Oil = MAG PROFF B4 5W/40

3. 28/1/11 – 21 520 km
- Service
- Vacuum pump and gasket replaced
- Replaced leaking pinion seal on rear diff
- Oil = MAG PROFF C3 5W/40

8.5 Year interval, no history – 154 807km added, including 4500km drive from WA to QLD

1st owner = 170 000km in 10 years (approx.) – unknown servicing and maintenance, though told Owner 2 that fuel additive (injector cleaner) was used with each re-fuel, and owner performed own servicing / maintenance

------------------------


Purchased in 2019 privately by Owner 2 who drove it from WA to Brisbane. He had it serviced regularly at a mechanic in Moorooka, as follows:

4. 16/8/19 – 176 327 km
- Service
- Oil = Penrite enviro plus 5W/30 C1 Synthetic ($18.61/L)

5. 29/9/20 – 183 332 km
- Replace vacuum pump

6. 3/3/21 – 187 066 km
- Service
- Replace vacuum pump (again? – appears on both invoices – perhaps first was faulty?)
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($15.06/L)

7. 14/7/22 – 197 971 km
- Service
- New front brakes
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($15.06/L)

8. 17/4/23 – 206 864 km
- Service
- New starter motor
- New ignition switch
- New heater tap
- A/C Service (basic service)
- Coolant added (Holden long life red coolant)
- New wiper inserts
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($15.06/L)

9. 8/7/24 – 217 724 km
- Service
- New rear brakes
- A-Frame ball joint
- New wiper inserts
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($17.34/L)

Owner 2 = 45 000 km in 5 years (approx.), with regular servicing and maintenance

----------------------

I am Owner 3 (purchased on 11/12/24 (218 018 km). In the last couple of weeks I have refuelled once and added the diesel injector cleaner sold at the Ampol service station. I have also given it a good wash and sprayed the underbody and chassis with 2 litres of Penetrol.

In these inspections there doesn't seem to be any major sign of wear or rust, though there is severe clear coat disintegration in the paint over the body (particularly bad on the bonnet and all curved parts of the body panels).

The major issue I have encountered is that the air-conditioning is blowing only hot air, so have booked in with an auto-electrician in the second week of January to have it looked at.

I have also booked it in for a service / maintenance look-over in May at David Lawrence Landy in Capalaba.

I've read quite a few threads on here to gain some understanding of the Puma Defenders, but still have a couple of questions, which are:

a) Is there anything I should keep a close eye on between now and May, considering I know nothing about the maintenance history between 20 k and 170 k?
b) Is there anything obviously wrong with the known maintenance history (ie. has the incorrect engine oil been used)?
c) Having read that injectors can be a common issue on Puma engines, I plan on continuing the use of fuel additives at each tank fill, but I'm not sure what would be best to use; I'm leaning towards a CEM product, but unsure of the CRD Fuel Enhancer or the FTC Decarbonizer, or both at the same time (or something else)?
d) Is the A/C problem something that could have an easy fix before the 8th Jan?

Thanks so much for anyone who takes the time to read and respond to such a lengthy post!

Travis

[travelrover]

Hi All,
I have just bought a '08 Puma Defender (2.4L), which is my return to Land Rover ownership after a 15-year hiatus (had a '93 200tdi Defender until 2009). The vehicle has something of a sketchy maintenance history, so I am looking for advice on things to look out for. Based on the receipts that were included in the vehicle, this is what has been documented to have occurred over its life:


2008 build - Purchased 23/1/09 at Southern 4WD Authority (Cannington, WA)

1. 6/7/09 – 10 283 km
- Service
- Oil = MAG PROFF C3 5W/40

2. 26/3/10 – 10 309 km
- Service
- Driver’s exterior door handle replaced
- Recall – Engine Q068 (unsure what this was for - maybe REC-003266 - Jaguar Land Rover Australia trading as Land Rover Australia - LAND ROVER Defender | Vehicle Recalls (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/rec-003266) ?)
- Oil = MAG PROFF B4 5W/40

3. 28/1/11 – 21 520 km
- Service
- Vacuum pump and gasket replaced
- Replaced leaking pinion seal on rear diff
- Oil = MAG PROFF C3 5W/40

8.5 Year interval, no history – 154 807km added, including 4500km drive from WA to QLD

1st owner = 170 000km in 10 years (approx.) – unknown servicing and maintenance, though told Owner 2 that fuel additive (injector cleaner) was used with each re-fuel, and owner performed own servicing / maintenance

------------------------


Purchased in 2019 privately by Owner 2 who drove it from WA to Brisbane. He had it serviced regularly at a mechanic in Moorooka, as follows:

4. 16/8/19 – 176 327 km
- Service
- Oil = Penrite enviro plus 5W/30 C1 Synthetic ($18.61/L)

5. 29/9/20 – 183 332 km
- Replace vacuum pump

6. 3/3/21 – 187 066 km
- Service
- Replace vacuum pump (again? – appears on both invoices – perhaps first was faulty?)
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($15.06/L)

7. 14/7/22 – 197 971 km
- Service
- New front brakes
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($15.06/L)

8. 17/4/23 – 206 864 km
- Service
- New starter motor
- New ignition switch
- New heater tap
- A/C Service (basic service)
- Coolant added (Holden long life red coolant)
- New wiper inserts
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($15.06/L)

9. 8/7/24 – 217 724 km
- Service
- New rear brakes
- A-Frame ball joint
- New wiper inserts
- Oil = Penrite HPR5 5W/40 Full Synthetic ($17.34/L)

Owner 2 = 45 000 km in 5 years (approx.), with regular servicing and maintenance

----------------------

I am Owner 3 (purchased on 11/12/24 (218 018 km). In the last couple of weeks I have refuelled once and added the diesel injector cleaner sold at the Ampol service station. I have also given it a good wash and sprayed the underbody and chassis with 2 litres of Penetrol.

In these inspections there doesn't seem to be any major sign of wear or rust, though there is severe clear coat disintegration in the paint over the body (particularly bad on the bonnet and all curved parts of the body panels).

The major issue I have encountered is that the air-conditioning is blowing only hot air, so have booked in with an auto-electrician in the second week of January to have it looked at.

I have also booked it in for a service / maintenance look-over in May at David Lawrence Landy in Capalaba.

I've read quite a few threads on here to gain some understanding of the Puma Defenders, but still have a couple of questions, which are:

a) Is there anything I should keep a close eye on between now and May, considering I know nothing about the maintenance history between 20 k and 170 k?
b) Is there anything obviously wrong with the known maintenance history (ie. has the incorrect engine oil been used)?
c) Having read that injectors can be a common issue on Puma engines, I plan on continuing the use of fuel additives at each tank fill, but I'm not sure what would be best to use; I'm leaning towards a CEM product, but unsure of the CRD Fuel Enhancer or the FTC Decarbonizer, or both at the same time (or something else)?
d) Is the A/C problem something that could have an easy fix before the 8th Jan?

Thanks so much for anyone who takes the time to read and respond to such a lengthy post!

Travis

Hi Travis

We have a 2012 2.2 90 but some similar issues, the heater tap, ignition switch (now running a Perentie one) paintwork is crap (Santorini black) and we had corrosion around the sun roof and safari windows. Also had an output shaft failure (now Ashcroft unit) the transfer box **** itself around 150k.
The a/c hot air issue may be contributed to by the fresh air ducting into the heater having a gynormouse gap where the two parts )sort of) join and it is sucking in hot air from the engine bay. Gear knob delaminated replaced with billet aluminum one. Throwing P2263 code, replaced turbo, intercooler, MAF and sensors but code still shows up every now and then. On advice from the team (thanks Dazza) on here I use FTC decarbonizer fuel additive in all my defenders and it has made a noticeable difference in smooth running in all and eliminating smoke in our Td5 & 300Tdi.
Also we do oil/filter changes at 5k kms. There are two schools of thought on the injector failure issues. I hear the horror stories too but it was in for service last week and there is little more I can do from a preventative maintenance perspective.

Other than that it’s a great little vehicle and my wife’s daily drive!

Good luck
Cheers Simon

[TM86]

Thanks Simon, I really appreciate that! I am hopeful that jobs such as the transfer case (or any driveline issues for that matter) were seen to during the first owner's time with the vehicle! While I'm still perfecting the subtle art of nursing the gear changes, most of the driveline noise is user error, rather than red flags. In regards to the a/c issue you mentioned, can the huge gap be addressed? I guess I'll find out in a couple of weeks if there is anything more sinister at play.

Does the error code you experience flash up on the dash? I'm hoping not to have to worry about it, but it's good to keep an eye out for.

Travis

[travelrover]

Thanks Simon, I really appreciate that! I am hopeful that jobs such as the transfer case (or any driveline issues for that matter) were seen to during the first owner's time with the vehicle! While I'm still perfecting the subtle art of nursing the gear changes, most of the driveline noise is user error, rather than red flags. In regards to the a/c issue you mentioned, can the huge gap be addressed? I guess I'll find out in a couple of weeks if there is anything more sinister at play.

Does the error code you experience flash up on the dash? I'm hoping not to have to worry about it, but it's good to keep an eye out for.

Travis

No worries, pleased to contribute. Yes gear changing is a little different. I should have mentioned that we have replaced axles and hubs with HD ones and this has reduced the backlash considerably.
The A/c gap can be ‘fixed’ by installing an extra foam gasket in the gap.. apparently this impacts around 80% of Pumas. I have a couple of photos but am unable to insert them here.
The P code just throws up the orange check engine light, you need to have an ODB scanner. This will enable you to read and clear the faults. You can find cheap scanners on eBay for $25 which is probably all you need to start with.
If I can figure out how to load the photos which are archived I will do so.

Cheers Simon

[jasonk]

Hi Travis.
My 2009 Defender also had an issue with the A/C. Mine had lost all the gas & the leak found to be in the evaporator. It's a dash out job ($$$). Hope yours isn't the same, but be prepared. Trying to find a silver lining, the repairer also found a leak in the heater matrix and replaced it at the same time.

All the best with your Defender ownership. Cheers, Jason

[travelrover]

Thanks Simon, I really appreciate that! I am hopeful that jobs such as the transfer case (or any driveline issues for that matter) were seen to during the first owner's time with the vehicle! While I'm still perfecting the subtle art of nursing the gear changes, most of the driveline noise is user error, rather than red flags. In regards to the a/c issue you mentioned, can the huge gap be addressed? I guess I'll find out in a couple of weeks if there is anything more sinister at play.

Does the error code you experience flash up on the dash? I'm hoping not to have to worry about it, but it's good to keep an eye out for.

Travis

Ok here are some photos that may help with finding the gap in the heater cowling... you may need to orient them 90%. The first is the check engine warning and the second the cheap ODB scanner i carry in the vehicle to read and clear faults on the go. I use the ODB Facile Plus Edition app.

.192174 192170

In the photos below the first is the heater tap, if you look below this (photo 2) you will see where the two parts of the cowling join (supposed to join anyway). The third photo is a close up of the gap showing the foam gasket, this is the one you need to install two of (or this was the solution in my case). I did read on a ZA site that you can wrap duct tape around the gap but this is quite difficult to do from all accounts.

Have a look at this link Genuine Blower Assembly ((v)from7a000001) For Land Rover Defender 2007 - 2016 (l316) | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/10.55842.56357.61490/brand/land-rover/)
192171192172192173

Hope that helps!

[TM86]

Thanks Simon and Jason, that is really helpful! I'll have a look at the A/C a little more closely in a couple of days.

[TM86]

Happy New Year All!

I investigated the gap between the cowling, as suggested by Simon and it appears that this has already been addressed:

192214

While inspecting all of the usual fluid levels, I found that the coolant overflow reservoir was empty, and that the bottom hose linking the engine to the radiator looked to be heat-affected / melted onto various things that it was touching:

192215
192216

I have not experienced any over-heating, and the temperature gauge has stayed on middle when driving, so I'm hopeful that no damage has been done, or that the coolant level hasn't been low for long (although I haven't done too much driving in it). According to the service receipts, in April of 2023 the heater tap was replaced, coolant was topped up and the A/C was serviced.

To me, this suggests that there has been an issue with the cooling system (and potentially the A/C) that has been managed but not fixed. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Because I can't completely trust / know what coolant has been used, my plan is to drain the coolant and replace with a Penrite pre-mix (their website suggested this:
192217

Although the Haynes manual doesn't suggest this, is there any need to flush the system, or replace the thermostat while I am doing this? Also, should I replace the above-mentioned hose? If so, what is the correct part?

As always, thank you for any guidance!

Travis

[DazzaTD5]

*The sticky hose is a intercooler hose and is leaking. Replace that hose and the one on the other side with a silicone set.
*If the coolant is red/pink then drain and refill with another red/pink.
*I would use Penrite PREMIX oem red

TF724 - terrafirma silicone hose set for intercooler
Tridon hose clamps (you will need good hose clamps for the silicone jobs)

[TM86]

Thanks so much for this Daz. I shall order and replace as soon as possible.

[TM86]

I have now replaced the intercooler hose that was leaking (image below). I went to do the driver's side one, however it looks very awkward and I am not confident in replacing it; is there an easy way to do this? I have the car booked for an annual maintenance service in May; would it be ok to wait until then and have the mechanic replace the other hose?

Also, I attempted to drain the coolant and replace, however only one of the clamps attaching the two hoses to the fuel cooler would undo, so I could only drain from one end. I ended up draining about 2.5 litres and topped up with 5 litres. Again, this is something I may just need to manage until May, unless there is better advice out there.

192281

[DazzaTD5]

I have now replaced the intercooler hose that was leaking (image below). I went to do the driver's side one, however it looks very awkward and I am not confident in replacing it; is there an easy way to do this? I have the car booked for an annual maintenance service in May; would it be ok to wait until then and have the mechanic replace the other hose?

Also, I attempted to drain the coolant and replace, however only one of the clamps attaching the two hoses to the fuel cooler would undo, so I could only drain from one end. I ended up draining about 2.5 litres and topped up with 5 litres. Again, this is something I may just need to manage until May, unless there is better advice out there.

192281

to replace drivers side:
*remove viscous fan
*dis-connect top coolant hose from radiator and bleed line (take care not to break plastic bleed line and spigot on radiator).
*remove lower plastic fan cowling. (lower coolant hose is attached to it, you will see how when underside of vehicle)
*use a long screwdriver to undo clamps
*you may also see a bracket off the alternator, undo 10mm nuts.
*the rest and reverse is pretty self explanatory.

cooling system drain:
while all the above is out, you will see that the bottom hose has a plastic line on a t-piece, press clip on the side of it and it unplugs thus allowing the cooling system (with rad cap off) to drain.

Yes all can be done by your mechanic...

[TM86]

Well, I decided to hold off on replacing the other inter-cooler hose for fear of damaging the plastic bleed line and spigot, however new events will see it happens after all.

Firstly, I had the A/C seen to and they couldn't find any leaks or faults, so simply re-gassed / serviced and it is now blowing cold air without drama, which is great.

Unfortunately, I have done a couple of drives since then and upon inspection of the engine bay this afternoon, saw fresh coolant leak all around the passenger side of the radiator (this stood out particularly well on the new, blue silicone intercooler hose). As I was planning on travelling to K'gari (Fraser Is.) for a few days from tomorrow, I decided to take it the local Landy mechanic for a quick look over because I couldn't see anything obvious and nothing was leaking when it was idling in the driveway. He has diagnosed a leak in the top of the radiator. It appears the top left bolt had probably been tightened too much and ruptured the plastic underneath.

He has ordered a new radiator for me, which should arrive on Monday. I suspect that I'll have to install this myself, but have had a read of the Haynes manual and am put off by having to remove the condenser (involving a trip back to the A/C people to discharge the system, thus wasting the $350 just spent). Is there a non-condenser removal way of replacing the radiator?

As a silver lining, at least I'll be able to drain and replace the coolant and replace the other intercooler hose easily, with the radiator out...

[MLD]

For the drivers side intercooler hose, i tackle it from underneath. I remove the top section of radiator cowling and undo the clamp at intercooler and pull hose off the port. Undo clamp at turbo and remove hose. From underneath i pull the hose in the middle so it folds into a V and just wrangle it out. Install is a little tricky but generally the reverse of the removal. I have done an intercooler hose swap in work clothes on the side of the road more times that i care for. Had a problem with the intercooler hose blowing off the turbo for about 15 months. No clamp could hold it on for an extended time. I got into a routine to fix it down to 7 minutes. The problem was the chinese knock off turbo outlet OD was machined too small for the intercooler hose.

[DazzaTD5]

the 2 screws on top of the radiator that hold the fan cowling in place is an old Defender TD5 and Discovery 2 TD5 issue. If you screw them in too tight they put a hole in the top tanks.

I always fit a flat washer and a spring washer, the spring washer is only for the thickness.

its covered here: https://youtu.be/EaIObLLWv8c?feature=shared

[TM86]

Thanks Daz! The video was very informative. A quick question - when the radiator comes out (with the intercooler attached), what happens with the condenser cooling fan and the A/C connections?

Here's where the leak is:

192384

[DazzaTD5]

Thanks Daz! The video was very informative. A quick question - when the radiator comes out (with the intercooler attached), what happens with the condenser cooling fan and the A/C connections?

Here's where the leak is:

192384

there are 3 bolts that hold it in place, the top one attaches to the rad slam panel (so the air con doesnt get disconnected or removed)