Anderson plug direct to battery

[chuck]

Afternoon All

Need to fit an anderson plug to power my portable ARB compressor prior to a trip to Carpenters Rocks on Sunday

Was just going to wire direct to batter under drivers seat using existing connections.

Will put a fuseable link in.

Anyone see a potential problem with this methodology given the complexity of these things?

Thanks for the advice.

[V8Ian]

Have you got heavy enough cabling, under the seat?

[chuck]

We will put in enough to get out the door & then plug in compressor.

There seems to be enough room to put in small coil .

[V8Ian]

Why not run an Anderson plug to the towbar and a convenient spot on the front of the car.
You then end up with a caravan connection and an easy jump start/charging connection.

[one_iota]

No need to fiddle with the battery. Land Rover has got us covered.

In the engine compartment there is a positive post connected to the battery and an earthed negative post. The positive post is in the red box (lid open) on the left and the negative to the right with a substantial cable attached.

192201

I use the original compressor alligator clamps that attach to the posts on a shot length of cable with an anderson plug attached and anderson plug on the compressor cable. More than enough current to run my heavy duty compressor.

I also use those posts for solar and 240 volt charging. They can be used for jump starting as well.

[Old Farang]

Most modern cars, probably all of them by now, have smart alternators. If you look at the negative battery terminal there will be a small device clamped to the battery post, and the negative "earth" lead is then clamped to a terminal on that device, not to the battery post.

Its function briefly, is to monitor the load on the cars total electrical system via the earth cable. If you are adding whatever to the electrical system that requires an "earth", then DO NOT connect the new earthing connection to that device. The connection should be made directly to the negative battery post before the monitoring device. Or if your battery has an additional set of connection pads, usually on the side of the battery, then use those points.

I have no idea how these new Land Rovers are wired, but if it is fitted as posted by one_iota, then that is where any additional connection should be made. There MAY be a fuse already included in that circuit, so that should also be looked into.

[drivesafe]

Most modern cars, probably all of them by now, have smart alternators. If you look at the negative battery terminal there will be a small device clamped to the battery post, and the negative "earth" lead is then clamped to a terminal on that device, not to the battery post.

Its function briefly, is to monitor the load on the cars total electrical system via the earth cable. If you are adding whatever to the electrical system that requires an "earth", then DO NOT connect the new earthing connection to that device. The connection should be made directly to the negative battery post before the monitoring device. Or if your battery has an additional set of connection pads, usually on the side of the battery, then use those points.

I have no idea how these new Land Rovers are wired, but if it is fitted as posted by one_iota, then that is where any additional connection should be made. There MAY be a fuse already included in that circuit, so that should also be looked into.

Sorry Old Farang, but NOTHING should be connected to the Negative ( - ) terminal of any vehicle with SMART alternator function.

one_iotas post is the way to go.

These terminals in the engine bay are specifically designed to be used for Jump Starting and as such, means they will safely handle any current load required.

[Old Farang]

Yes, I thought that this might produce some disagreement!

A connection made direct to the negative battery post BEFORE the smart sensor, is not a connection to the rest of vehicles electrical system via the sensor. Any load taken from such a connection will not interfere with the vehicles system.

I have no idea how many modern vehicles that may have separate terminals, as apparently fitted to the Land Rover in question, but I would suggest that it is not very many.

I posted this because it would appear that there are people unaware of the requirement.

I have even seen posted arguments concerning which direction the electrons flow in such a circuit aimed at disputing how, why, and where an extra connection to earth should be made!

So, where are the connections made to the auxiliary post connections, and is there a fuse or other current limiter?

[jwb]

The positive post in the engine bay is of course fused. But there's also 2 built in positive terminals as well that just need a midi fuse of whatever size you need for auxiliaries. I use one of these for my compressor permanently mounted in the engine bay.

And any auxiliary circuit you add needs to pick up it's earth from any of the earthing points in the car; there are plenty and many unused as well. This means any current draw is measured by the shunt on the battery negative and the system responds accordingly.

BTW the L663 does not have an alternator it has a starter-generator but it acts like a smart alternator.

[drivesafe]

Yes, I thought that this might produce some disagreement!

A connection made direct to the negative battery post BEFORE the smart sensor, is not a connection to the rest of vehicles electrical system via the sensor. Any load taken from such a connection will not interfere with the vehicles system.

I have no idea how many modern vehicles that may have separate terminals, as apparently fitted to the Land Rover in question, but I would suggest that it is not very many.

I posted this because it would appear that there are people unaware of the requirement.

I have even seen posted arguments concerning which direction the electrons flow in such a circuit aimed at disputing how, why, and where an extra connection to earth should be made!

So, where are the connections made to the auxiliary post connections, and is there a fuse or other current limiter?

This type of connection will not directly harm the battery itself while the motor is off ( No alternator charging ) but it will play havoc with a vehicles BMS while the motor is running, which can lead to over charging or under charging of the cranking battery and is a common cause of vehicles going into LIMP mode for no apparent reason.

The BMS thinks the battery is taking more charge than it should be ( and therefore thinks the battery is failing ), and something as simple as trailer brakes being connected this way have regularly caused this situation to occur.

[eno]

...
BTW the L663 does not have an alternator it has a starter-generator but it acts like a smart alternator.

Isn't that only the MHEV, and possibly PHEV engines? I was under the impression that the P300 / P5xx engines had alternators, albeit smart or otherwise.

[jwb]

Isn't that only the MHEV, and possibly PHEV engines? I was under the impression that the P300 / P5xx engines had alternators, albeit smart or otherwise.


Yes, correct. I should have clarified that. Mine is a D300 MHEV.

[chuck]

Anderson plug installed.

Thanks for help on here, used points under bonnet as suggested.

Compressor is working.

Much appreciated.

[GobiOne]

Thanks for good discussion gents, but I’m still somewhat unsure. I pick up a new D350 110 SE at the end of Feb and need to install an Anderson plug to the rear for Tvan battery charging.
Can I safely use the “jump-start” terminals in the engine bay (positive via 50A fuse and the negative to the ground post) then run a pair to the rear of the vehicle?
And is there a recommended path for the 8B&S twin core to the rear??
Appreciate all tips and tricks as I haven’t found any definitive guide… yet.
Cheers,
Gobi1

[jwb]

Thanks for good discussion gents, but I’m still somewhat unsure. I pick up a new D350 110 SE at the end of Feb and need to install an Anderson plug to the rear for Tvan battery charging.
Can I safely use the “jump-start” terminals in the engine bay (positive via 50A fuse and the negative to the ground post) then run a pair to the rear of the vehicle?
And is there a recommended path for the 8B&S twin core to the rear??
Appreciate all tips and tricks as I haven’t found any definitive guide… yet.
Cheers,
Gobi1

while you could do that it’s easy to connect to the 12volt side of the DCDC unit under the cargo area. Plenty of examples of doing this and I pick up my auxiliary battery charge from here. Also plenty of earth points nearby. Keeps cable runs to a minimum. Have a trawl through the 2 Australian New Defender groups on FB and you’ll find poeple’s project write ups. I like this one Australian All New Defender Owners Group. (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1891561444279987/permalink/7614527425316665/?)
And will do this when I need an Anderson outlet.

[GobiOne]

Thanks for the tip JWB, that looks much easier than running wire from the front. I’ll have a look at mine once it arrives and see how well I can do it. I hadn’t realised there was sufficient power in the boot area already.
I have a 40Amp Redarc DCDC in the Tvan.
Cheers, GobiOne

[jwb]

I run a 50A dcdc to the aux battery in the cargo area. I've read of people pulling 70A off the car.
That connection is the supply direct to the 12volt battery under the driver's seat so plenty of cable size.
It's all empirical as noone has been able to get a published capacity of the charging system - starter generator in MHEV vehicles.

[mclifo]

i then guess the question of connecting to the 12V system in the back of the L663 (110 MHEV) is can we tap off the *12 V in the back of the vehicle, and earth it via one of the many earth studs without affecting the vehicle's BMS?

[drivesafe]

i then guess the question of connecting to the 12V system in the back of the L663 (110 MHEV) is can we tap off the *12 V in the back of the vehicle, and earth it via one of the many earth studs without affecting the vehicle's BMS?
That will be fine.

+12v can be sourced from the cranking battery's positive ( + ) terminal, and as you posted as long as you do NOT go near the cranking battery's negative ( - ) terminal and pick up your negative at an earth stud, the vehicle will never know there is an auxiliary battery connected.