Td5 harmonic balancer.

[V8Ian]

Any brand recommendations? I'm a bit disappointed in the Ross I fitted less than 50k km ago.

[thai_tiger]

Any brand recommendations? I'm a bit disappointed in the Ross I fitted less than 50k km ago.

Wow thats a surprise you dont hear of many failures, how has it failed.

[V8Ian]

It's been noisy for a while, now it's shredded the belt. [bigsad]

[thai_tiger]

It's been noisy for a while, now it's shredded the belt. [bigsad]

That really is a surprise...but saying that I have noticed a little tail tail squeak on shut down from mine.

50k is way too early, may be worth chatting to Ross performance

[V8Ian]

That really is a surprise...but saying that I have noticed a little tail tail squeak on shut down from mine.

50k is way too early, may be worth chatting to Ross performance
IIRC you fitted yours not long after I fitted mine.

[thai_tiger]

IIRC you fitted yours not long after I fitted mine.

early 2019 ish.....and about 40k klms

[laney]

I have a ross on mt td5 as to date no problems I did have to go down one belt size as the original serpentine belt was just a fraction to big.

[V8Ian]

Righto, fan and belt off. It's patently obvious that the failure is the tensioner. New tensioner on it's way from Karcraft.
The water pump is not leaking, but showing signs of imminent failure, I have a water pump in stock. Is the water pump a doable job on the driveway? Is it in contact with the cam chain? If so, I'm considering a new chain and guides while I'm there. Opinions and advice muchly appreciated

[discorevy]

I'll have a guess the water pump is probably OK, and you've been feeling the slack between the drive dogs, before the power steering pump resistance is felt.

It's pretty hard to tell the bearing state of the water pump without removing the P/S pump first.
If the telltale in the header tank isn't blocked and is pumping coolant out in a small stream beneath the header tank cap at idle, and it's not leaking coolant out the drain hole in front of the pump then it's probably fine.

Timing chain is a totally separate job. you can check that and the guides by removing the cam cover.

[V8Ian]

Thanks discorevy, that makes the job easier. Is the pump a major job? Is it worth doing as preventive maintenance?
Are any special tools needed?

[thai_tiger]

Righto, fan and belt off. It's patently obvious that the failure is the tensioner. New tensioner on it's way from Karcraft.
The water pump is not leaking, but showing signs of imminent failure, I have a water pump in stock. Is the water pump a doable job on the driveway? Is it in contact with the cam chain? If so, I'm considering a new chain and guides while I'm there. Opinions and advice muchly appreciated

This explain how to www.discovery2.co.uk - Workshop TD5 Water Pump Replacement. (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/waterpump.html)

[AK83]

Your swear jar will be overflowing about 1 hr into doing waterpump.
AC out makes it a bit easier, and then you have very restricted access to a couple of the bolts on the rear cover. IIRC 1/4" drive and ratcheting spanner helps(can't remember if 8mm or 10mm), but not a lot of room to swing spanner back there.

The less lazy and much easier method is to remove the waterpump bracket off the block and a lot easier to then get to the hard to get at rear cover bolts ... and the bonus is you get to change the o-ring that can potentially leak, between block and waterpump bracket.

The lazy guys way is to not remove the bracket .. but as said, swear jar will fill up in quick time.
removing the housing bracket means removing pwr stg pump, not disconnecting hydraulics, just get it off to remove the housing).
If you have ACE has to come off too, AC should come off just for better access to rear of pump anyhow, so already off.

Pump isn't like a regular pump you may be used too.
There is a pump body, that sits in the recess of the large pump housing/bracket. On the back of the pump is a cover that has to be removed for the pump to slide out.
It uses O-rings and not gaskets as such, in many ways a bit easier than ye olde style pumps, where you may need an hour of cleaning old stuck on gasket off the mating faces.
If you choose the non lazy much easier way, and you need the o-ring, part number is : ERR6711

Some folks prefer to remove the centrifugal filter housing to get better access to the pump cover bolts and just do the pump.
But I reckon it'd be better to remove the pump housing instead, and do the small o-ring between housing and block. That hardens, flattens and eventually can leak.

Pump itself may feel fine, not have any engagement issues with the power stg pump, but as my nephew found out a few months back, could be really badly gummed up with masses of grungy rusted goop.