Disco 4 tdv6 2.7 year 2011 looking for crankshaft sensor location

[Borja Valls]

Hi everyone, I just traveled from Sydney to Darwin and have started to have lots of issues. Its a long way and there were days that temperature got up to 47 degrees C. First problem was that the old water tank splitted and for the lat 300km i had to stop every 50 and refill. In Darwin I replaced the water tank and sensor and seems ok.
The big issue now is that the car enters in limp mode and lots of system fails after running for 10 minutes. HDC, gear, etc systems all fail and i have to drive slowly and park. I wait 10 minutes and everything works fine again. A mechanic has looked at the trouble code. It seems that he receives the trouble code for crankshaft sensor and other codes after. He has spent hours looking for the sensor. It seems like the position is different depending on the model, year, etc. He has looked everywhere and came back to me saying that It has to be inside the gear box. This means that we would have to remove the gear box to find the sensor inside and change it hoping that it was the one creating the problem. I cant find enough evidence online that the sensor is there and stressed because even if it is, I could not be the original issue. Anyway, I would appreciate if anyone can confirm that the sensor could be in the gear box and whether there are other things to check that could be triggering the limp mode before doing that big job?

[woko]

The sensor is behind the flex plate. You don't need to remove the gearbox. You can access it through a hole in the LH side in front of the bell housing. It's not an easy job but can be done

[Graeme]

The mechanic obviously doesn't know Land Rovers. The fault may not be the sensor itself if there are other fault codes and because that sensor rarely fails with fault codes, instead just intermittently stops working which is usually seen as the engine has stopped.
What are all the codes, not just the description from the mechanic's diagnostic device?

[Narangga]

Hi everyone, I just traveled from Sydney to Darwin and have started to have lots of issues. Its a long way and there were days that temperature got up to 47 degrees C. First problem was that the old water tank splitted and for the lat 300km i had to stop every 50 and refill. In Darwin I replaced the water tank and sensor and seems ok.
The big issue now is that the car enters in limp mode and lots of system fails after running for 10 minutes. HDC, gear, etc systems all fail and i have to drive slowly and park. I wait 10 minutes and everything works fine again. A mechanic has looked at the trouble code. It seems that he receives the trouble code for crankshaft sensor and other codes after. He has spent hours looking for the sensor. It seems like the position is different depending on the model, year, etc. He has looked everywhere and came back to me saying that It has to be inside the gear box. This means that we would have to remove the gear box to find the sensor inside and change it hoping that it was the one creating the problem. I cant find enough evidence online that the sensor is there and stressed because even if it is, I could not be the original issue. Anyway, I would appreciate if anyone can confirm that the sensor could be in the gear box and whether there are other things to check that could be triggering the limp mode before doing that big job?

Welcome to the Top End!

You obviously did not take it to Darwin Land Rover - 54 Albatross St Winnellie 8948 2352. Leigh is the Land Rover warranty service agent (and an excellent, knowledgeable mechanic) and will be able to assist you.

[PerthDisco]

Sounds very much like a dying high pressure fuel pump symptoms. Could be as simple as a blocked fuel filter though. The codes will help.

[DazzaTD5]

I would suggest:
*if it has any sort of duel battery system or any added electrical, i'd disconnect it all, clear the codes and try again.
*ensure the positive cable from the battery to the fuse box is secure, also check both terminal clamps are secure.
*ensure all the fuses and relays are pressed in and not lose.

[Borja Valls]

Welcome to the Top End!

You obviously did not take it to Darwin Land Rover - 54 Albatross St Winnellie 8948 2352. Leigh is the Land Rover warranty service agent (and an excellent, knowledgeable mechanic) and will be able to assist you.

Hi, thanks for the respond. Well, I actually did go to Land Rover but unfortunately they told me they were very busy and wouldnt even start looking at the car in a month. It was Xmas. I wasnt sure how bad was the problem so i found another mechanic that claimed he was a "Land Rover specialist". Obviously not. Leigh would have definitely be the right person and it would be sorted now. however, i am still stuck without a car. The mechanic i found only just managed to change the sensor. And as some of you predicted, the problem still seems to be there. Apparently he turned the car on once he changed the sensor but 10 minutes after it shut down again and cant turn it o again. He did register the sensor which is:

P0336- 31 crankshaft position sensor a circuit range - performance no signal

To me it seems like the crankshaft sensor again but how can it be? Did he buy a faulty one or is there any reason?

THanks so much everybody. And yes, I have told/threaten the mechanics that i would like to take it to Leigh but the car is half dismantled still and I dont know how Leigh is going to take the mess that we have created on it. Anyway, if anyone has any idea on what might be happening, I would really appreciate.

[Borja Valls]

Hi, thanks for the respond. Well, I actually did go to Land Rover but unfortunately they told me they were very busy and wouldnt even start looking at the car in a month. It was Xmas. I wasnt sure how bad was the problem so i found another mechanic that claimed he was a "Land Rover specialist". Obviously not. Leigh would have definitely be the right person and it would be sorted now. however, i am still stuck without a car. The mechanic i found only just managed to change the sensor. And as some of you predicted, the problem still seems to be there. Apparently he turned the car on once he changed the sensor but 10 minutes after it shut down again and cant turn it o again. He did register the code which is:

P0336- 31 crankshaft position sensor a circuit range - performance no signal

To me it seems like the crankshaft sensor again but how can it be? Did he buy a faulty one or is there any reason?

Thanks so much everybody. And yes, I have told/threaten the mechanics that i would like to take it to Leigh but the car is half dismantled still and I dont know how Leigh is going to take the mess that we have created on it. Anyway, if anyone has any idea on what might be happening, I would really appreciate.

[Borja Valls]

The sensor is new but, as mentioned, he didn't buy a genuine land rover one. He bought a Borsch one. Do you think this could be a problem? Both, the old sensor and this borsch one have provoked the same reaction. Car turns on, runs for 10 mins and then turns off and it seems we can't turn it on again. To me that means two things: Or both sensors are faulty, or both are ok and there is some other problem. Now that the car is stripped and is not hard to change the sensor , should we buy a genuine land rover one just in case? Anyone knows what is the part code or if there is any specific sensor that is very reliable. It also took us a while ti find out what is the exact model that we need. The brooch we got, looks exactly the same as the old one but wondering whether there is something different. Sorry guys, yeah I'm a total ignorant and this sooo frustrating. And I miss my Land Rover sooo much!!!!
My plan is to solve this genuine/off market sensor situation and ask the mechanics to put everything back in order to send to Leigh at Land Rover. Mechanics is starting to be onboard wth this even that he understands that he probably wouldn't get much money for all the time he is put on it. I dont know what you guys think but, should i pay anything if he s made it all very complicated and i ve been 2 months without car, renting cars, etc. and nothing is solved?

[shack]

The sensor is new but, as mentioned, he didn't buy a genuine land rover one. He bought a Borsch one. Do you think this could be a problem? Both, the old sensor and this borsch one have provoked the same reaction. Car turns on, runs for 10 mins and then turns off and it seems we can't turn it on again. To me that means two things: Or both sensors are faulty, or both are ok and there is some other problem. Now that the car is stripped and is not hard to change the sensor , should we buy a genuine land rover one just in case? Anyone knows what is the part code or if there is any specific sensor that is very reliable. It also took us a while ti find out what is the exact model that we need. The brooch we got, looks exactly the same as the old one but wondering whether there is something different. Sorry guys, yeah I'm a total ignorant and this sooo frustrating. And I miss my Land Rover sooo much!!!!
My plan is to solve this genuine/off market sensor situation and ask the mechanics to put everything back in order to send to Leigh at Land Rover. Mechanics is starting to be onboard wth this even that he understands that he probably wouldn't get much money for all the time he is put on it. I dont know what you guys think but, should i pay anything if he s made it all very complicated and i ve been 2 months without car, renting cars, etc. and nothing is solved? It's possible but unlikely that both sensors are faulty.

I'm guessing by "borsch" you actually mean a "Bosch" sensor, if so then you would think it would be ok.

If it is actually branded "borsch" I wouldn't trust it at all.

Have you run the vehicle with any diagnostic gear and captured it cutting out?

That would obviously be the first move from my perspective.

Hopefully you would record a log of this and then check the data on a laptop, of you do this you might see what the issue is.

Other than that, take it to someone who knows them backwards, as you've indicated you will do.

[Borja Valls]

It's possible but unlikely that both sensors are faulty.

I'm guessing by "borsch" you actually mean a "Bosch" sensor, if so then you would think it would be ok.

If it is actually branded "borsch" I wouldn't trust it at all.

Have you run the vehicle with any diagnostic gear and captured it cutting out?

That would obviously be the first move from my perspective.

Hopefully you would record a log of this and then check the data on a laptop, of you do this you might see what the issue is.

Other than that, take it to someone who knows them backwards, as you've indicated you will do.



Thanks Shack!

Sorry, yes the sensor is branded Bosch which i believe should be good but wondering whether it could be a different model.

The mechanics thinks that his computer might not be the most recent model but the code he has registered is: P0336- 31 crankshaft position sensor a circuit range - performance no signal

So yeah, if the new sensor is right, then there must be some other problem but is also giving the the code for crankshaft sensor. Dont know what this means. But yeah, i m looking at whether i should leave the Bosch sensor and make sure is the right one, putting all bits back together and then towing the cart Land Rover. This sensor things is confusing because there is lots of after market brands and codes. Within this Bosch looks the same but wondering how could we make sure it is the one. Anyway, thanks a lot for your help

[Graeme]

Are you stating that the engine runs for 10 minutes?

[shack]

Thanks Shack!

Sorry, yes the sensor is branded Bosch which i believe should be good but wondering whether it could be a different model.

The mechanics thinks that his computer might not be the most recent model but the code he has registered is: P0336- 31 crankshaft position sensor a circuit range - performance no signal

So yeah, if the new sensor is right, then there must be some other problem but is also giving the the code for crankshaft sensor. Dont know what this means. But yeah, i m looking at whether i should leave the Bosch sensor and make sure is the right one, putting all bits back together and then towing the cart Land Rover. This sensor things is confusing because there is lots of after market brands and codes. Within this Bosch looks the same but wondering how could we make sure it is the one. Anyway, thanks a lot for your helpSo is the new sensor behaving EXACTLY the same as the old one?

If it is, then it's likely not the problem.

There could be an issue with the wiring in the circuit.

But from memory it runs for 10 minutes then shuts off, so it doesn't sound like wiring to me, but I guess it could be.

Some OBD2 codes are pretty generic, but also pretty reliable in that it is standardized across the board.

See this:

D4 3.0 TDV6 crankshaft position sensor failure (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/290033-d4-3-0-tdv6-crankshaft-position-sensor-failure.html)

[Borja Valls]

Not anymore. We changes the crankshaft sensor and it started and lasted 10 minutes until it turned off. Pretty much what happened with the old sensor. It still gives the code for crankshaft position sensor failure. Now we cant even start it. Mechanics thinks it might have to do with the cars computer system or must be something else but we are pretty lost. Thanks

[shack]

Not anymore. We changes the crankshaft sensor and it started and lasted 10 minutes until it turned off. Pretty much what happened with the old sensor. It still gives the code for crankshaft position sensor failure. Now we cant even start it. Mechanics thinks it might have to do with the cars computer system or must be something else but we are pretty lost. ThanksDid you see the post I linked too?

[Borja Valls]

Did you see the post I linked too?

Hi Shack! Yes I did! I actually just talked to the mechanics and read it to him. I think it all sounds so similar to our situation. He said he has checked the wiring and seems fine so he is now wondering how to re-flush the ECU. He has obviously disconnected the battery and all that but wondering if there is a particular way to do this re flushing. Do you know? I could post it and ask people about it otherwise.

Thanks so much Shack. I really appreciate your effort in helping out!!!

[Borja Valls]

Sounds very much like a dying high pressure fuel pump symptoms. Could be as simple as a blocked fuel filter though. The codes will help.

Thanks so much. Seems like the fuel filter is all fine. THe code is the P0336-31 for crankshaft and this is why we have replaced the crankshaft sensor. However, problem still persists. Some people have talked about re-flushing the ECU. Trying to find out how to do that effectively.

[shack]

Hi Shack! Yes I did! I actually just talked to the mechanics and read it to him. I think it all sounds so similar to our situation. He said he has checked the wiring and seems fine so he is now wondering how to re-flush the ECU. He has obviously disconnected the battery and all that but wondering if there is a particular way to do this re flushing. Do you know? I could post it and ask people about it otherwise.

Thanks so much Shack. I really appreciate your effort in helping out!!!I'm not entirely convinced that an ECU reflash will fix it, it was just food for thought, and it seemed to work on the car in question.

From memory the 3 ltr uses a Bosch engine ECU, they are harder to reflash than the earlier Siemens ones.

An LR place should be able to do it, a gap tool might also work but I'm not sure on that.

What I feel is possibly more likely if the ECU reflash fixed it, is that there may have been some adaptions relating to the cps that were maxed out because it was failing, they got cleared on the re flash and it entered a re learn.

I know very little about the Bosch unit so I am just guessing.

I don't even know if the cps has any adaptions, so I'll stop floating ideas now!

[Graeme]

I've not read of anyone needing to do anything after replacing a faulty or failed TDV6 or TDV8 crankshaft position sensor, but that's not to say that the ecu has got itself into a knot about the DTC that would be cleared with a reflash. I'm reminded of my TD5 D2's ecu that had to be replaced because the dealer couldn't clear a DTC stored for a disconnected coolant temperature sensor.

Is anyone nearby with an IIDtool to try clearing all faults?

[loanrangie]

I've not read of anyone needing to do anything after replacing a faulty or failed TDV6 or TDV8 crankshaft position sensor, but that's not to say that the ecu has got itself into a knot about the DTC that would be cleared with a reflash. I'm reminded of my TD5 D2's ecu that had to be replaced because the dealer couldn't clear a DTC stored for a disconnected coolant temperature sensor.

Is anyone nearby with an IIDtool to try clearing all faults?


Aren't codes meant to clear after a certain number of shutdown/restart cycles ?
Or maybe after a hard rest.

[shack]

I've not read of anyone needing to do anything after replacing a faulty or failed TDV6 or TDV8 crankshaft position sensor, but that's not to say that the ecu has got itself into a knot about the DTC that would be cleared with a reflash. I'm reminded of my TD5 D2's ecu that had to be replaced because the dealer couldn't clear a DTC stored for a disconnected coolant temperature sensor.

Is anyone nearby with an IIDtool to try clearing all faults?I'm seriously thinking of editing the post I did above as it's all theory based on a couple of random facts and could just mislead people, and that's not my caper!

Most available OBD2 scan tools should be able to clear the fault, I'm only guessing but I'd imagine that has already been done.

[shack]

Aren't codes meant to clear after a certain number of shutdown/restart cycles ?
Or maybe after a hard rest.Not really, but it depends on the code and the ECU.

On newer stuff there will be current faults and archived faults from a previous drive cycle, usually the old stuff stays there until cleared.

On the Bosch TCU I've done work with, faults will get cleared after a certain amount of starts or if it runs out of room to store them and a more critical fault gets logged, but that's pretty ol_skool now.

[Narangga]

Aren't codes meant to clear after a certain number of shutdown/restart cycles ?
Or maybe after a hard rest.


Not really, but it depends on the code and the ECU.

On newer stuff there will be current faults and archived faults from a previous drive cycle, usually the old stuff stays there until cleared.

On the Bosch TCU I've done faults will get cleared after a certain amount of starts or if it runs out of room to store then and a more critical fault gets logged, but that's pretty ol_skool now.

My only experience was a couple of years ago where I used the Nanocom to clear some fault codes and they were not shown again vi a check with the Nanocom. When I asked the Indy about something he gave me the printouts from his Autologic and it showed the one I had cleared as an historic fault.

What that means - :spudnikwhat:

[DiscoJeffster]

My D4 had to have an ECU reflash to get it going after being worked on. I can’t remember what it was, but the bugger wouldn’t start without a reflash.
Another ex-member had the same issue. Did some work on it and it refused to go again. Last straw reflash and up it started.

Weird. Makes no sense to me but I can only assume it resets some aspect that it’s unhappy with. Still makes no sense.