D4 SDV6 dead engine - what next?

[BushDisco]

Hi folks, last week driving home from work I started to have rough running and idle issues, leading to ticking noises, started losing power, finally as I pulled off the highway I could hear a deep knocking from the engine. This all happened within 4km with no easy option to pull over in rushg hour traffic.

Managed to pull into a sports centre car park and park in good order. Motor was really rough and as I switched it off I briefly saw the red low oil light. Long story short I flat bedded it home the next day, removed the oil filter and found some tiny bright silvery slithers in the creases of the filter. In my prognosis a spun crank issue and I am sure terminal for the motor. No faults on the iiD.

I am now needing to decide if I put a (new gen 2) motor in it, or replace with another Disco 4 or other vehicle. In either of the last 2 I would likely part out the car, if I purchased another D4 I would obviously swap or keep some parts myself.

So what do folks think I could realistically get for a dead disco that is otherwise in fantastic condition, e-diff, Llams, Traxide, DVD pack, hasn't towed anything over a tonne, has been over serviced and has almost new struts, disks, compressor, metal pan, cold climate pack etc etc?

Also I am still keen on the D4. If I was to buy another I would be keen on a SDV6 8-speed, preferably as low km as I can find - under 150k for preference. I'm happy to swap most of my bits across - even the e-diff if thats possible? So I dont need one thats had lots of mods - although I will lookl at them if they have been fully maintained. I would prefer a straight one that has not towed caravans.

I'm still gutted over the motor, likely take me a while to get over it, but for now I am a 2 wheeler only so keen to get another car before winter arrives (Melbourne).

Cheers all.

[Grentarc]

I would recommend getting a low km engine from a wreckers, and replacing the bearings with tri-metal ones instead of the factory sputter bearings. My MY10 D4's engine went back in November, and has just had this done. I was very hesitant in replacing the D4 with another due to the fact that the next one would be a ticking time bomb too. I was lucky enough to get over 300k kms before mine went, but it was always at the back of my mind. Luckily it happened when and where it did, as it was 15 mins from home.
The new motor only has 120k kms on it, and I was able to get it for under $7k delivered (Melbourne to Wagga). I also managed to talk them into including both turbos. New motor then had main and big end bearings changed to tri-metal type, both manifolds changed from my dead motor (I had replaced with latest parts number ones recently), water outlet housing changed, cam sprockets changed to latest type and of course the timing/HPFP belts were done.

[Graeme]

Late last year my son found a low km engine c/w turbos for less than what most wreckers want bare to replace his 2010 3.0 that failed. The bearings and camshaft sprockets were replaced as were the inlet manifolds and belts with the idea of preventing another failure due to bearings or camshaft sprockets. The car is running well except that I'm still waiting on a G4 IIDtool to calibrate the secondary turbine valve's off position which is causing restricted performance, being not exactly the same as the old turbine valve's off posiiton. The plan to keep the vehicle for many years has changed due to my son deciding that he wanted my 4.4 TDV8 L322 when I recently purchased a late L405, so the D4 will be sold once a few items have been tidied-up. Hopefully the D4 will sell for more than what it cost to replace the engine and the various other parts that were renewed.

Edit: my son beat me to it!

[shack]

Edit: my son beat me to it!

I was suspicious

[chuck]

You could get a price from the mob below.

Land Rover Engine Specialist | Jaguar Engine Specialist (https://automotiveskills.net.au/jaguar-engine-land-rover-engine/)

Last time i checked it was approxc $25k tow in drive out for reconditioned motor supposedly with upgraded crank.

By time you buy another you would probably be up for similar cost.

Cheers

[Melbourne Park]

... The car is running well except that I'm still waiting on a G4 IIDtool to calibrate the secondary turbine valve's off position which is causing restricted performance, being not exactly the same as the old turbine valve's off posiiton. The plan to keep the vehicle for many years has changed due to my son deciding that he wanted my 4.4 TDV8 L322 when I recently purchased a late L405, so the D4 will be sold once a few items have been tidied-up. Hopefully the D4 will sell for more than what it cost to replace the engine and the various other parts that were renewed.

Edit: my son beat me to it!

Hi Graeme. Congrats on replacing your dream vehicle!

My D4 engine has had (since new when towing) an intermittent low power mode, fixable by restarting. But it became permanent, but only if towing. All to do with the 2nd turbo.

First try was replacing the actuator for the 2nd turbo. It did not work.

The cause was found to be the vacuum lines. They are evidently all taped together. Rova Range pulled the lines from I think Jason's sister's D4, and tried those in my D4. It then worked properly. They thereby isolated the issue. They tore apart the taped vacuum lines, and found a hairline crack in one line. So they ordered a kit of vacuum lines for my car from LR and the solenoids. The vacuum line with the hairline split explains why it only happened while towing, and now and then. I hadn't towed for maybe 18 months - I went to NSW from Melbourne towing, and this time it went into low power mode almost continuously. I guess the split hose got more brittle or stiff with age, and hence more air escaped and it did not close up, producing a fault at 20% of the 2nd turbo boost. You could ring Jason and he could explain the parts required. But your son's fault sounds like mine. I haven't tested the vehicle though - my son has a 6 week scanning job of a large factory near Karratha W.A., a few hundred K south of Broome near Weipa. He cannot fly all his sensitive gear there, and was going to drive the old petrol Prado, but the site doesn't accept petrol vehicles, so he's taking the Disco, which he wants to buy from me. I got the vehicle back at 3:00pm yesterday, I din't test it, I dropped it straight around to my sone, and he left early this morning. It's over a 4k drive one way. I've been fearful taking Disco towing in W.A. as you know ... and now my son wants the vehicle too. I do like the bearings idea though. Mine has 119,000 km on it at the moment. Will be closing on 124,000 by Saturday, and I guess 128-129 when he's back.

Let me know about your car when its ready too ... I still haven't bought a vehicle for the W.A. touring for 4-5 months trip. It sounds silly for me to buy a 300 series for just a 5 month trip. And all the vehicles that are serviceable in W.A. or under factory warranty, aren't good around town IMO, accept perhaps a Defender, and they are expensive and not as roomy or comfortable IMO as even the D4. And I am resentful about the lack of spare engines. If Land Rover were one quarter serious, they'd provide an adapter kit to Ford for spare engines. But also my Indy reports they've seen a few Fords with failed engines, so the issue continues.

[Graeme]

The fault code indicates that the turbine valve's closed position isn't what is recorded in the ECM so the ECM thinks that the valve is stuck, when really the ECM needs to learn the closed position of this valve.
I'm currently trying to remove the OBD connector to remove 2 wires that aren't used by diagnostics but their presence prevents a G4 IDTool from working with the D4.

[BradC]

The fault code indicates that the turbine valve's closed position isn't what is recorded in the ECM so the ECM thinks that the valve is stuck, when really the ECM needs to learn the closed position of this valve.
I'm currently trying to remove the OBD connector to remove 2 wires that aren't used by diagnostics but their presence prevents a G4 IDTool from working with the D4.

Do you have an OBD extension cable? Probably quicker and easier to snip the cores in an extension rather than make a permanent change.

I only throw that out there because I have a couple, and one in the car permanently so the IID sits behind the console above the connector.

[Graeme]

That was my plan but finding the correct wires in the sealed connectors would have been problematic.
The OBD socket is retained by 2 horiontal torx screws from behind the panel. The offending wires were cut and taped, leaving enough length to rejoin if necessary.

The turbine valve has been calibrated (the IIDTool had a 5-second count-down, but required the engine to be at least 70C). Now there's another restricted performance fault P00BD-07 regarding either the CSOV or the primary MAF. The CSOV vacuum hose looked OK but I'll have a proper look tomorrow in daylight.

[Tins]

Bit late, I know, but it should have been possible to de-pin the two unwanted wires.

[Graeme]

I was attempting to do that but then decided that it would be safer to have 2 snipped and taped wires than 2 taped terminals that could end-up touching each other.

[Melbourne Park]

More issues with my D4's actuator and related issues ... the vacuum hoses were replaced, somewhat urgently. I never saw the parts - part of the bundle of taped up tubes was a metal pipe, with a hairline crack ... probably there from brand new, as the issues has been intermittent while towing.

My son rang me Tuesday week ago, saying that for his scanning job in Karratha, they won't let his petrol Prado onto the site. He has lots of high tech equipment, which he cannot fly it to there, so he has to drive it, from Melbourne. So sure I said, take the Disco ... so suddenly the Disco repair job was urgent. They got the parts delivered Monday morning, and at 2 pm it was ready. So I took it straight to my son's place, I cleaned the car, he started packing it. He left Tuesday morning with his wife, and he'd drop her off in Adelaide, they'b book a hotel and bought an airline ticket. Then he rings me on Tuesday, still in Melbourne - the car is on low power mode, warning lights!

So bad news for me ... I went and test drove a 2nd hand 200 Series, and was ready to buy it from a dealer. 98k Sahara, seemed in good nick, 2019. I'd buy it for him to have a vehicle, and I'll do W.A. in that. Then he rings me, and says they've fixed the Disco. A vacuum line had kinked after pushing the turbo ... they then unbent the kink, ensured it couldn't happen again, and off my son went. I told the dealer I wouldn't buy it ... still not sure about a 200.

So my son leaves Adelaide at around 11 am, and he makes Penong - past Ceduna, that day, Wednesday, I think about 750 km that day. Next day the Thursday he drives to Kalgoorlie - 1300 km. Friday he's off on both bitumen and dirt and he's ringing me saying how the Disco is so fantastic it levels everything, and he loves the engine, and he's finished his fourth talking book. The phone connected straight away via bluetooth and speakers are fabulous he says. He stops to help some grey nomads finish replacing a tyre, and later he again stops to help a chap with an overheating old Patrol, and back he goes to the previous fuel stop and buys some radiator fluid for the Patrol guy. He makes another 1,000 km that Friday, and stays in Newman (the Pilbara area). 2 pm he is in his digs in Karratha, having test flown his new high tech drone, which was almost taken down by a huge eagle three hours out from Newman.

He wants to buy the Disco, I'm not sure if its wise to sell it to him ... I need a spare one really.

I quite like the 300 series, but they are overpriced IMO. The Patrol is fabulous I reckon and I think great value. No oil issues or turbos to worry about. It eats the juice if one uses its glorious motor. I'm tempted. It's not easy finding a good spare Disco.

[Graeme]

My son's D4 seems now to have a sticking primary turbo at idle. We have yet to watch what happens when the ignition is switched on and off to see if it is indeed sticking and if so to work at freeing it, but I can't help thinking that it might be a vacuum hose issue.

[Graeme]

My son's 3.0 D4 is all better. The young mechanic hadn't refitted the vent tube for the several solenoids which is meant to connect to the air-box, instead replacing the T and the line to the air-box via the engine mount solenoid with a 1:1 joiner to link all solenoid vents together and leaving the engine mount solenoid disconnected. The lack of the ability to vent meant that the CSOV was being held open, causing the various faults.

[DiscoJeffster]

My son's 3.0 D4 is all better. The young mechanic hadn't refitted the vent tube for the several solenoids which is meant to connect to the air-box, instead replacing the T and the line to the air-box via the engine mount solenoid with a 1:1 joiner to link all solenoid vents together and leaving the engine mount solenoid disconnected. The lack of the ability to vent meant that the CSOV was being held open, causing the various faults.

Sigh. Good work sorting it all.

[Graeme]

I had already swapped the CSOV solenoid once but with 3 available swapped it again to no avail, but found vacuum in the vent tube while idling. Cleared faults again then with the vent tube disconnected, went for another run to find that it behaved, so returned to the house to check the vent system fully only to find it a closed system.

[jwb]

A recent LR Time video was Christian showing a brand new genuine purchased from LR crankshaft that was out of LR's balance specification.
He fixed the problem and got it into specification. But if the part comes out of the factory and is not even in spec is it any wonder there are failures.