Defender LT 230

[minioncreek]

Hi good people, would anyone be willing to share a contact for someone who has machined the defender LT 230 transfer case for the Ashcroft bush in Perth? Have tried several places, I know any good machinist can do it but most want to see the job before committing. I am remote WA, would prefer to prearrange it so I’m not stuck without the vehicle for weeks while they find time to do it.
Thanks in advance.

[2012Ninety]

When you say machining, do you mean having the Ashcroft adapter shaft fitted between the transfer case and gearbox? If so, there are plenty of places in Perth who can do it. Dover’s Automotive in Wangara did mine (I supplied the part).

[minioncreek]

I need to fit the new intermediate shaft steel bush supplied by Ashcroft. I have all the bits for a rebuild I hope? It’s been a bit of a struggle finding someone who knows what is involved, I’ll try them

[2012Ninety]

They have done plenty of them. Hopefully they can help you out.

[POD]

You're talking about two very different things. The steel bush for the intermediate shaft needs a machine shop with a milling machine to bore out the transfer case housing to accept the steel bush. I have done a couple but I'm a long way from WA.

[roverrescue]

As mentioned by POD - just to be certain - do you have a leaking intermediate shaft that you are trying to fix? Im guessing so as you talk about an intermediate shaft bush.

Essentially the machinist needs to overbore out your aluminium transfer case housing to accept a bushing made from steel that the intermediate shaft will ride in.

Surely a few photos of the thousands of people who have done it in their backyard shed should probably suffice?

here is a perfect example from POD
LT230 intermediate shaft (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-and-tutorials/232043-lt230-intermediate-shaft.html)

I imagine if you wandered into your machinist shop with the cleaned case, the intermediate shaft and the bush they would have a pretty good idea of the job in about 3.5 seconds. I can assure you removing - disassembly - cleaning - reassembly with an ATB ;) and re-installing will take infinitely longer than setting up and boring the case.

Most (all) machinists won't want a bar of the time consuming spanner throwing - you just need to get them the case / shaft and bushing. If you are remote and can't be off the road for long maybe look at finding a wrecker case that you can build up and then swap in?

S

[POD]

Just something to note if you look at that old thread of mine that Roverrescue has quoted, where I did my first couple; the bush does indeed need to be stepped. My first one migrated inward despite installing it with 'permanent assembly' loctite (don't know about the other couple I didn't step!). Live and learn, they say. The gearbox will stop it migrating outwards, so the stepped bush needs to have the larger diameter to the outside of the housing.

[roverrescue]

Interesting POD,
the couple I have done I stepped following AncientMariner technique

I clocked in that thread that you hadn’t stepped the bush

I’m not that surprised that it migrated
Stepping gives whatever flavour locltite you use both a larger surface area to retain as well as retaining along a different plane of force

As you say live and learn

[DazzaTD5]

just to add...

While I have a local machinist do mine cases, its 3 or 4 cases at a time due to the setup rather than the actual job thats time consuming. also due to his workload its generally round a month.

What I recommend to the OP is simply buy a empty case that has the steel insert already done from Ashcroft in the U.K

[minioncreek]

Hi all, thanks for the input, I have found a shop through dovers who has done the milling needed before, and was willing to book the job in sight unseen. Just to clarify I needed the stepped intermediate shaft bush, as supplied by ashcrofts, fitted into my empty case. Everyone is so busy nowadays a small job is of little interest. Agreed I would be better off getting it done in with a few others, I did try to a few places but no luck. Meanwhile I have fitted a D2 T/C to the 130 to keep it going. Has anyone else done this? D2 has a larger diameter front driveshaft flange, so I used the double cardin shaft off the D2 which is in better condition. It maybe a smidge shorter? Can’t see why I can’t change the flange on the rebuilt T/C and retain it when I swap them back.

[POD]

just to add...

While I have a local machinist do mine cases, its 3 or 4 cases at a time due to the setup rather than the actual job thats time consuming. also due to his workload its generally round a month.

What I recommend to the OP is simply buy a empty case that has the steel insert already done from Ashcroft in the U.K

I'm not sure that setting up a second and subsequent housing in the mill would be significantly less time-consuming than doing a single one, the case has to be clocked in precisely each time. Like many milling jobs, the setup is a large portion of the job.
One of the great things about having the equipment is not having to put up with the 'yeah mate, I can do that in about 8 weeks'.

[MLD]

the defender front output flange and D2 front flange are interchangeable. before the days that GL started selling a defender flanged double carden, the only option for a Defender was to swap the flange to a D2 style and use a factory D2 shaft or an aftermarket shaft like GL or TW with a D2 flange. As for length, many ran a factory D2 shaft on a stock height defender. If it's lifted, you might be more cautious as to spline engagement at full droop.

as a side note, the defender front output spline count is the same as that used on a Ford 9" diff. As such, you can use a Ford 9" pinion yoke on a LT230. More relevant for those with clearance issues like with a 4L80 tranny.

[DazzaTD5]

I'm not sure that setting up a second and subsequent housing in the mill would be significantly less time-consuming than doing a single one, the case has to be clocked in precisely each time. Like many milling jobs, the setup is a large portion of the job.
One of the great things about having the equipment is not having to put up with the 'yeah mate, I can do that in about 8 weeks'.

No doubt you are likely correct, I'm not a machinist nor do I intend to be one.

To correct my original post, its more likely I hate to get one off items done, if I am going to get another business to do a job for me I want multiple of them done that way my jobs are worth doing. Another job is machining of the adaptor shaft between the MT82 box and the LT230 box, I get 10 done at a time, I would expect he has them done prolly in an hour or two which equates to a good job for him.

While other businesses are doing my "good jobs", I'm doing jobs that I consider "good jobs" that pay my bills...

[TonyC]

Just something to note if you look at that old thread of mine that Roverrescue has quoted, where I did my first couple; the bush does indeed need to be stepped. My first one migrated inward despite installing it with 'permanent assembly' loctite (don't know about the other couple I didn't step!). Live and learn, they say. The gearbox will stop it migrating outwards, so the stepped bush needs to have the larger diameter to the outside of the housing.

Hi Pod,
Could you update the other thread as well with stepped bush info.
Just to keep the info current.
Tony

[POD]

Hi Pod,
Could you update the other thread as well with stepped bush info.
Just to keep the info current.
Tony

Done as requested.

[minioncreek]

Just an update for those contemplating the job, an excellent job done by Harris engines for $150. Leak fixed