d4 will not start

[markus ringbarkus]

Hi All,
I recently fitted a territory motor to my 2011 D4. I purchased it with a motor that had a broken timing belt.
As far as I i know that was all that was wrong with it.
After fitting the motor, bleeding the fuel lines etc I have found it will not start? It will go through the motions, Glow plug heat and then crank it will try to start and fire about 2 seconds and then stop. I have a gap tool and have checked the fuel rail and fuel tank pump pressures and they are both fine. I have done some online research on this and al I can find is to re flash the engine ECU or the ACTM terrain response
There are no faults on the Gap tool and I contacted Gap and they suggested it would not be The engine ECU
I am at a loss as to what to check next.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[RANDLOVER]

If it isn't throwing up any codes and the battery and starter motor are strong enough to get it up to a speed to disengage, then it might be running out of fuel, maybe try some Start Ya Bastard spray or similar. Although the web warns about removing the glow plug relay when using ether in Diesel engines. Also as the timing belt was broken that might’ve caused valve damage, I assume you have reset all the timing marks.

This post had a belt tensioner break and valves were mostly okay but a roller rocker lost some pins...Thought i had joined the broken crank club but NO! (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/295533-thought-i-had-joined-broken-crank-club-but-no.html)

[Tombie]

Did you transfer all the D4 engine stuff over? Like sensors?

Theres a thread in here somewhere about needing to run the LR part or they wont run.

[markus ringbarkus]

If it isn't throwing up any codes and the battery and starter motor are strong enough to get it up to a speed to disengage, then it might be running out of fuel, maybe try some Start Ya Bastard spray or similar. Although the web warns about removing the glow plug relay when using ether in Diesel engines. Also as the timing belt was broken that might’ve caused valve damage, I assume you have reset all the timing marks.

This post had a belt tensioner break and valves were mostly okay but a roller rocker lost some pins...Thought i had joined the broken crank club but NO! (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/295533-thought-i-had-joined-broken-crank-club-but-no.html)

Thank you. This motor hasn't had any broken belts it is a low K territory motor.

[markus ringbarkus]

Did you transfer all the D4 engine stuff over? Like sensors?

Theres a thread in here somewhere about needing to run the LR part or they wont run.

Thank you. I Did anther swap recently and used all the sensors on the territory motor and it started fine? 2009 Discovery.
This one is a 2011 I hope I dont have to change the crank position sensor ..[bawl]

[BradC]

maybe try some Start Ya Bastard spray or similar. Although the web warns about removing the glow plug relay when using ether in Diesel engines.

I'm going to wander way off topic and possibly into a bit of old wives tales, but I was always warned against ether based start sprays and diesels (aerostart, start ya bastard, ...). Our boat diesel mechanic insisted they can lead to cracked ring lands due to detonation. My wifes old Golf had a failing starter motor, and CRC MAF cleaner always got that going. Heck in a diesel you can use diesel in a pump spray bottle down the intake and it'll generally fire if it's a fuel system issue.

That Markus indicated it would fire for a couple of seconds would point towards something that a bit of supplementary fuel down the intake isn't going to solve.

How did you check the "fuel tank pump" pressure? I'm assuming you haven't changed any of the ECU's so it's not likely to be an immobilizer issue.

In theory if it fires at all the CPS should be ok, but you can check that by monitoring the cranking RPM with a GAP tool. The only thing that might be suspect is the fuel rail pressure sensor on the passenger side fuel rail, but checking the Siemens book it looks like they are the same between the terry and the disco (rail and sensor are a single unit with the part number A2C59513703)

If the fuel system is bled, the HPFP will suck fuel from the tank to start the car and run without the LPFP even working, but I'd be interested to look at the pressure at the schraeder just to make sure there isn't an issue with fuel supply.

I know you said the GAP didn't indicate any faults, but I'd try re-seating the plugs on both the VCV and PCV on the HPFP. When I was diagnosing my faulty pump I noticed odd behaviour when I hadn't re-seated the plug on the VCV properly and while it should have registered a fault it didn't.

[markus ringbarkus]

Thank you for the advice .I checked the fuel tank pump pressure at the schrader valve test point with a fuel pressure gauge tester.
While manually running the pump. It was 5psi constant with fuel pump relay engaged
The gap tool shows the HP rail pressure while cranking and is fine. The start button is a bit dicky and sometimes while cranking it will stay in cranking mode as in the starter keeps cranking even after releasing it. I had to press it again to stop it .
I will try the plugs on the HPFP. Is the lower (bastard to get at plug) the VCV? it looks like its plugged looking at it in with a light.[bawl]

[BradC]

Yeah it is. From memory it's on a short extension. Anyway, give it a poke and prod with a screwdriver just to make sure it's clipped in.

Other than that, I'm afraid I'm out of ideas.

[RANDLOVER]

Thank you. This motor hasn't had any broken belts it is a low K territory motor.

Sorry, I got things the wrong way around. You bought a Territory motor to replace one that broke a belt. Like you and the other thread say, there may be very little wrong with the broken belt motor. Good luck getting the new one running.

Was the Terry in a smash? If not it may have ended up in the wreckers due to mechanical troubles, hopefully not the engine.

[markus ringbarkus]

Sorry, I got things the wrong way around. You bought a Territory motor to replace one that broke a belt. Like you and the other thread say, there may be very little wrong with the broken belt motor. Good luck getting the new one running.

Was the Terry in a smash? If not it may have ended up in the wreckers due to mechanical troubles, hopefully not the engine.

hi, I think it was in an accident, I bought it from a wrecker it certainly looked low K. I purchased my previous Terry motor from him and it was great. The motor I replaced had done 380K. When I pulled the timing cover off I found The tensioner bolt had snapped off and the motor had been running long enough to melt holes in the timing cover with the belt before it eventually stopped and the belt came off. I wound it over before I purchased it and it sounded like it had compressions missing, I assumed it had bent valves, maybe not?
The new low K motor was cheap so I thought I might as well swap it out.
I did not get a chance to work on it today. Hopefully over the weekend I can sort it out. [happycry]

[markus ringbarkus]

Hi All After quit a few attempts to start the Disco it finally started , idled at about 400 and after about 20 sec a large amount of white smoke came out of the exhaust, no throttle response at all. I thought about it then spoke with a diesel guru I know, he told me white smoke from a diesel is oxygen starvation. I then thought and suggested to him maybe I had left a rag in one of the turbo lines. He informed me a good way to check for a blockage was to take the intercooler line off the air inlet at the throttle body and spray some canola cooking oil into it and it should run fine at about 1000rpm just of the spray
I decided to put a camera down the turbo inlet line first and sure enough there was a piece of rag still in there.
after removing it the engine started instantly and ran like a clock.
A bit embarrassing but I will now double check this whenever I do a motor change you dont forget something like this[bigsmile]

[shack]

You are not the first to do that either!