Maxidrive Heavy Duty Rear Axle ... Or Not a ...

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

In my current familiarisation with Snowy my 110 Defender Ute's quirks I noticed the axle hub caps are different between the rear and the front. With my Series 2 and Series 3 the hub caps are the same between front and back axles.

I remember in a prior forum post about front axle hub caps someone mentioned about upgrading to a Maxidrive axle kit. I went online and searched for Maxidrive rear axles and came across this photograph (the shiny hubs). Is this shape exclusive to Maxidrive or were they made to look similar to rear axle Land Rover hubs?

The photograph of the shiny new hubs was accessed 20th July 2025 from MAXIDRIVE HD REAR AXLES & FLANGE KIT MDETOB2/3X - MR Automotive (https://mrautomotive.com.au/product/maxidrive-hd-rear-axles-flange-kit-mdetob2-3x/)

Remember my knowledge of 110 Defenders is restricted to Snowy. Yes, I live a very sheltered life.

The not so shiny hubs in the second photograph is from Snowy.

From these photographs - did the previous owner upgrade Snowy's rear axles to a Maxidrive kit?

If so, then I have had a big win! :banana::banana::banana:

Kind regards
Lionel

[p38arover]

Maybe not a MaxiDrive locking diff but perhaps MaxiDrive axles - or not.

However, I'm sure that MaxiDrive flanges were copied - like these: Heavy Duty Capped Drive Flange - FRC5806A (https://klr.com.au/land-rover/defender/110-130/spares-and-parts/engine-and-drivetrain/axles-diffs-and-propshafts/heavy-duty-capped-drive-flange/)

These aren't MD.

KLR sell MD flanges. See Search results (https://klr.com.au/search-results-page?q=drive%20flange)

[Lionelgee]

Maybe not a MaxiDrive locking diff but perhaps MaxiDrive axles - or not.

However, I'm sure that MaxiDrive flanges were copied - like these: Heavy Duty Capped Drive Flange - FRC5806A (https://klr.com.au/land-rover/defender/110-130/spares-and-parts/engine-and-drivetrain/axles-diffs-and-propshafts/heavy-duty-capped-drive-flange/)

These aren't MD.

KLR sell MD flanges. See Search results (https://klr.com.au/search-results-page?q=drive%20flange)

Hello Ron,

You are correct. I just found and watched a YouTube clip from KLR about the flanges accessed 20th July 2025, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ64Wu1EuVM. Turns out there are Maxidrive flanges with a big nut and a similar looking clone. If the most telltale signs of the original are the letters MDE shown at the 5:47 minute mark in the KLR video, I will grab a burnishing brush and see what lies under all the crud. Hopefully there was a bit of a gap between the original Maxidrives and the clones being produced and the former owner bought and fitted the originals before the clones came along. Fingers crossed.

Kind regards
Lionel

[TonyC]

Hi Lionel,
I believe the Maxi Drive/High Tough Engineering flanges have the scallop as shown in you first photo.
The flanges can be swapped independently of the axles, although High Tough Engineering do a matched flange/axel that have a longer splined section.

Tony

[Tins]

May just be the flanges, but not to worry, 110 axles weren't that bad. If you have instead a MD locker that is obvious. I can try and get you a pic later as my D1 has one. ( Yet another reason to curse LR for making the D2 and P39 orphans. Love to fit that to my D2 ).

[MLD]

MDE stamp their axles with a number(or "X" for the long splined version) on the drive flange end of the axle. Break the nut with a 52mm socket and breaker bar (or a big arse rattle gun). If you see the stamp on the axle, it's likely MDE. If not stamped, you might have aftermarket drive flanges only. Was common to replace only the DF because the factory DF splines flogged out. I've not seen a MDE DF so tarnished. Their treatment usually keeps them relatively colour consistent for years. I live in an ocean suburb and we get salt spray. After 13 years, my DFs are dulled but nothing like that photo.

KLR sell the Raptor branded HD axles and DFs. Affordable upgrade.

[Lionelgee]

MDE stamp their axles with a number(or "X" for the long splined version) on the drive flange end of the axle. Break the nut with a 52mm socket and breaker bar (or a big arse rattle gun). If you see the stamp on the axle, it's likely MDE. If not stamped, you might have aftermarket drive flanges only. Was common to replace only the DF because the factory DF splines flogged out. I've not seen a MDE DF so tarnished. Their treatment usually keeps them relatively colour consistent for years. I live in an ocean suburb and we get salt spray. After 13 years, my DFs are dulled but nothing like that photo.

KLR sell the Raptor branded HD axles and DFs. Affordable upgrade.

Hello MLD,

I am Snowy's second owner. Snowy was bought new from the dealer and then spent his life on a west Queensland cattle property. Then some gullible person came along and bought it sight unseen off the internet. The conditions within a cattle property are a hot bed of adverse conditions and apparently neglect. I have been following the philosophy of 'happy wife equals happy life" today. So, I have not yet had a chance to examine the hub caps more closely. The fact that the caps are dulled to that extent is a testament to the conditions Snowy previously operated under.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well, a quick brushoff with a fine brass brush did not reveal any debossed letters on the hub cap. However, as previously described - Snowy's prior operating conditions could have easily rubbed off any light debossing or coatings anyway. When I got some repair work done on Snowy's chassis the engineering mob said that there was a lot of backlash in the rear differential. I need to look at Mike from Britannia Land Rover YouTube clips about these diffs again. Just to refresh my mind with what to look out for to diagnose any issues. As Snowy is a ute and I have the tray off for repairs - now is the time to sort any rear end issues with such superb access be available to work on the vehicle. Plus wire brush and repaint the chassis.

Returning to the earlier comments about Snowy's prior working conditions, I would not be surprised if I do not have to replace all the differential's internals. I suppose this will allow me the opportunity to fit genuine Maxidrive components during the rebuild. I could be very pleasantly surprised - and the diff only needs some minor adjustments. The Tooth Fairy ... the Easter Bunny and Santa are all my friends too. I did watch an episode of Myth Busters and Adam Savage did prove that you can actually polish a turd!

Accessed 21st July from Polishing Poop? - Mythbusters - S05 EP12 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_Y35PqjecY&t=1129s

Kind regards
Lionel

[MLD]

looking at those DF's, TonyC is right. MDE scollop their DF. the embossing is stamped on. Those will be aftermarket of another brand. not that it matters if the splines are in good nick and there is no clunks on take off. give them a brush and put them back into service.

You'll be surprised how much backlash is in the driveline. A little at the TFC diff centre, a little in the crown and pinion and a little at the DF adds up to a lot of play. I'm always surprised how much i can rotate the wheel before it binds up to remove the slack in the driveline. If it is a sals, there is no adjustment in the diff once it is set up (properly). The carrier bearings are shimmed for correct gear contact and the pinion uses a crush sleeve that is a one time crush. Not sure about the P38, i ditched mine for a sals within a week of ownership. Be guided more by clunks on take off and grumbling gear noises than on an engineering mob if they are not LR experienced. If the diff was set up right and it's not noisey, it's probably good for another 500,000 kms. If the diff has spent time in muddy water, that can kill bearings in no time. Doing all the famous tracks in Tasmania cost me a diff and wheel hub rebuild.

As for MDE internals. I ran a maxi locker for years until i snapped the diff housing in 2. they are a good bit of kit but are expensive to set up if you outsource it. If you need an air compressor for airing up and other uses, an ARB is cheaper to buy and set up when you share the cost of the compressor with other purposes. if it is a sals, a lunch box detroit is the cheapest to buy and set up. No need to change C&P set up. Open carrier, remove guts, drop in lunch box locker, bolt it up, install with the same shims and bob is your oddly masculine aunt.

[DazzaTD5]

as others have pointed out they are not MD drive flanges, nor are they Ashcroft drive flanges as both have a slightly different style to your one.

As a cost effective good option if you are looking at changing diff centres to something better then look at the Ashcroft ATB, I fit these to all the diffs I rebuild and also the LT230 transfer case

Limited Slip Differentials – Ashcroft Transmissions (https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product-category/limited-slip-differentials/)

[Lionelgee]

as others have pointed out they are not MD drive flanges, nor are they Ashcroft drive flanges as both have a slightly different style to your one.

As a cost effective good option if you are looking at changing diff centres to something better then look at the Ashcroft ATB, I fit these to all the diffs I rebuild and also the LT230 transfer case

Limited Slip Differentials ? Ashcroft Transmissions (https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product-category/limited-slip-differentials/)

Hello Daz,
It is a shame that you are in Perth and and Dave (BlackKnight) is in Melbourne. In Bundaberg if you contact a mechanic the next word you get from them is usually rude as soon as the words Land Rover are mentioned. I tried to organise a more Land Rover friendly local mechanic. However, they were a no show. Also no reply to phone calls and texts.

Before I had the chassis work done I had wanted a mechanic to inspect it to assess whether the whole vehicle was worthwhile spending money on. I would still like a skilled experienced Land Rover mechanic to inspect the vehicle to let me know what work needs to be done to get it up to being road legal. Or to let me know if I would be better off to start advertising it for wrecking.

I rolled the dice on getting the chassis work done instead of just leaving the vehicle sitting idle and deteriorating. Also, with a damaged chassis no matter how much money I spent elsewhere on upgrades and repairs it would never be able to be registered with a damaged chassis. Catch 22. Now I find myself still in the Catch 22 situation - just with a fully engineer certified repair to the chassis.

You know the bit about polishing a turd. According to Mythbusters it can be done... It just has to be from either an ostrich or a lion - apparently!

Kind regards
Lionel