D3 V6 Petrol to D3 V6 Diesel New Chapter Starts

[theh33d]

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Good Evening Folks

Today I picked up a tidy D3 diesel (pictured) with low km's showing (127,000kms), no service history records so can't confirm 100% but the condition of the vehicle does indicate that this maybe legit.
This vehicle will replace my faithful D3 V6 petrol (owned 8 years) which I had planned to hold onto until I saw this one come up on good old Gumtree.

First Impressions:
These things are good on fuel, drove it home (100km) and it was running on fumes compared to the V6 petrol
Smooth everything, as you'd expect with a D3
Very little to sort out (so far) just small things, broken engine cover, replace fog light outer cover, repaint nudge bar. Time will tell if anything else comes up.

Vehicle Spec:
SE model
Cloth interior
Center consol fridge (bonus)
Land Rover nudge bar

The first concern/question I have is with the ride height. for whatever reason she seems to be sitting high at the rear and maybe a slight drop on the drivers side. I have raised and lowered the suspension which functions as it should with no issues. I collected the car today and it had been sitting with the previous owner for the last two days and hadn't sagged as I had the keys with me so it wasn't started during that time. Would this be a potential issue with the valve blocks?
I had changed out the O-rings on the valve blocks on my other D3 but this was to resolve a sagging issue.
Could it be a calibration thing where it needs to be connected to a scan tool to reset the ride heights.

The car is parked on a slopped drive in the pictures so this isn't showing the car on level ground.

As always any input would be appreciated.

[PerthDisco]

Yes the GAP tool can calibrate and reset the ride height is a great feature.

I always scratch my head with a no service record history but I'd dig around under the oil cap to see if it's clean or heavily gunked if oil changes not done regularly.

I'd also assume it has probably never had the fuel filter and any of the diff, transfer, gearbox oils changed and do that asap.

Then I'd check what date stamp on the timing belt as very likely that's original also and also potentially with the pre-upgrade oil pump which you must change to latest version.

What year is it? 08 and lower had the bad pump.

Pre 07 has the EU3 fuel system you can block the EGRs with no software which is well worth it and clean out the intake manifold.

At those kms front lower arms probably also original and shagged out.

Change the plastic coolant fitting in the valley while blocking the EGRs as that will be original and after 7 years can spilt at any time and cook the engine.

Change the coolant. Is the coolant bottle clear or murky oily looking (refer oil cooler comment)?

Oil cooler probably very close to needing replacement.

Is the roof liner falling down?

That will keep you busy.

[theh33d]

She is a 2005 model.

I do have a couple invoices for the last two services. Previous owner had the car for 10 years as a third vehicle. He has told me it was serviced regular but he only put on 40km > 50km during his ownership. He is currently trying to track down records of these supposedly services.

The oil cap and coolant bottle all look good.

I'll look at having the oil pump and timing belt done in due time and service the gearbox and change out the diff oils.

Blanking the EGR valve won't throw up codes?

Roof lining is all good no sags, just the sun visors and A pillars need attention.

[PerthDisco]

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Blanking the EGR valve won't throw up codes?

That is the first edition. It has the earlier EU[emoji639] compliant fuel injection. You just need to buy a plate kit to blank.

Early model fuel filter as well.

Do some research on the early oil pumps. Typically it will fail after you change belt for the first time so you sort of want to hope it's on the original belt which I bet you it is.