Thermostat TD5

[Tins]

I think I need a new one. Price seems to vary from $30 to $160. Ok, is this a case of getting what you pay for?

[V8Ian]

Have you tried Karkraft?

[Slunnie]

I'll see if I can find the box, but at amost 300,000km I replaced mine. The car comes up to temp really quickly now compared to the LandRover one, its great.

[AK83]

I'm sure I went cheap when I did mine, maybe 5 years and 90K klms ago now.

Thermostat was changed only because I had rad out to change that, much easier access, and since I was flushing and changing stuff and wanted to fit an 82°C thermostat too.

Rad was cheapie off ebay too.
Thermostat came in a plain white box, no branding, and only reason I remember this specific detail(and I can barely remember what happened an hour ago!) ... still have the old thermostat in the box in storage.
Possible thinking there was if cheapie turns out to be a dud I still have the old one.

I do remember that it dropped temps by about 5°C in normal running(from about 91ish to 86ish).

Is your radiator OK?

[Tins]

Have you tried Karkraft?

No. I wanted something local...

[Tins]

I was bleeding the system just to see. The bloody bleed screw thing broke.... grrr. Can't believe that a; I need a new hose just for that and b; Melbourne is closed because of a football game that isn't being played until tomorrow.... grrrr again. Guess I'll see if I can do a temporary ( hah! ) patch on it for now cos I ain't going anywhere otherwise.

[Tins]

Is your radiator OK?

Think so, but I might as well pull it out now I've come this far. Check the fan hub while I'm at it.

Surgeon told me I can start using my right arm again.... except it's forgotten how.

[AK83]

Just a quickie on the bleed screw thingy.

Same happened to me (before I changed to the silicon hoses and metal T junction there).
Long shot, but had to try ... had a wallmate(plastic type, t6hat you screw into plaster to hang stuff. Jammed that in there in place of the bleed screw and then a wood screw of just a bit thicker gauge to seal up the wallmate plug.

Worked perfectly as long as you don't have to bleed too much... maybe one or two shots. More than that will loosen the central section of the wallmate plug and will leak ... but a tiny leak ... just enough to get me home in 30mins.

Note this was just to get me from Yarraville to Coburg. Ordered a silicon hose kit that has the metal t junction instead of the octopussy like hose up there.

Back then, the single silicon kit was cheaper on ebay than a std hose. Just had a peek and now stupidly priced just for that single section compared to std hose and or an almost complete silicon hose set!

There are now 'upgraded' top hoses available, where they also have the multi hose/T junction type setup, but they're rubber and the T junctions are plastic. Same style as the V8's bleed 'bolt'. While they are multi hose setups, all the hoses are pre crimped to make a single assembly .. again you can see them on ebay, as an alternative, roughly $100ish.

Anyhow ... do you know Graham in Scoresby area sells LR parts on ebay under the name JiggityJig? Good bloke. Haven't used him(at his physical store) since his move out there, used to buy parts from him when he was in North Melb. I've only bought some stuff off ebay from him.

[Tins]

I saw that "upgraded" hose. About $160*. Didn't look all that great but it gave me ideas.

I'm not far from Scoresby... Well, not far when the car is going... I'll figure out something to close it up for now. Of course, I have a spare hose... the other one...

* KLR have a cheaper one...

[V8Ian]

* KLR have a cheaper one...
I thought you wanted local??? I only mentioned Karkraft because Mario recommended them to me. So far his recommendation has been justified.

[Tins]

I thought you wanted local??? I only mentioned Karkraft because Mario recommended them to me. So far his recommendation has been justified.
I know, Mario mentioned them to me, but I only ever bought from him ☹️
And yes, I did want local but I won’t get one over the bloody long weekend so I’ll have to patch what I have and get one in for later replacement. Even Tony at Uptech ( where Heather takes her car, LR and Oka guru) has turned into a pumpkin over the stupid long weekend. . I can’t afford to be without a car while I’m in my current state of health. Trouble with that is I’m struggling to get the bloody thing off. Hard to believe how weak I have become in the last year.

[Campaspe Man]

I've also broken that bleeding screw! I obviously managed to get what was left of the screw out -- assuming you've also got the plastic bleed screw -- I probably did something like heating up a small flat head screw driver and then pressed it into the plastic for long enough to make an indent/groove, remove and let cool to harden, then screw out using the flat head.

All the best - this is the sort of pain one doesn't need!

Myles

[Tins]

I've also broken that bleeding screw! I obviously managed to get what was left of the screw out -- assuming you've also got the plastic bleed screw -- I probably did something like heating up a small flat head screw driver and then pressed it into the plastic for long enough to make an indent/groove, remove and let cool to harden, then screw out using the flat head.

All the best - this is the sort of pain one doesn't need!

Myles

Mine brought out maybe one mm of the thread with it. I guess the rest is floating around, waiting to cause me more trouble....:soapbox:
I'm going to try a schraeder valve in the short term Got a few of those around.... and some Stag. Bloody thing will probably foul on the bonnet [bigsad]

[Tins]

Think I’m going to try a rivnut, once I find them. Sigh. I get part way through cleaning up and organising and then something gets in the way and I have to start again. Thus everything gets even more lost?
But a suitable rivnut, with some sealant like Stag, might get me mobile.

[Slunnie]

I'll see if I can find the box, but at amost 300,000km I replaced mine. The car comes up to temp really quickly now compared to the LandRover one, its great.

Found it! It was a Dayco.

194684

[d2dave]

My temporary fix for the bleed screw was to get a large diameter bolt with a coarse thread.

From memory it was a half inch NC. I drilled out the bleed screw thread and threaded the bolt into the rubber, after I tapped a hole in it for the bleed screw.

This temporary fix was there for a few years until I changed the hose.

194691

[Tins]

My "temporary" fix was just that: temporary. I didn't have anything that would fit so I glued it back in.... being Monday I decided to get the new hose I know it needed. It blew the valve thingy out at some point on the journey. Nano reported only 99°, but of course the sensor may not have had any coolant around it. Could only get a Britpart one, but it seems to be a better design. Now to fit it. That bottom hose clamp is a bugger with one arm.

[Tins]

Still chasing the overheat. Still think it’s an airlock but I am removing the rad and thermostat because it has not been done in over a decade, so why not? But…. I have been using the Nanocom to monitor the temperature. Now I understand the D2 temperature gauge. My temps have been varying by thirty degrees while at the same time the factory gauge stays stubbornly on half. I guess LR thought owners would have heart attacks if the gauge actually represented what the car was actually doing [bigrolf]

[TonyC]

John, surely this is not news to you!

[discorevy]

Still chasing the overheat. Still think it’s an airlock but I am removing the rad and thermostat because it has not been done in over a decade, so why not? But…. I have been using the Nanocom to monitor the temperature. Now I understand the D2 temperature gauge. My temps have been varying by thirty degrees while at the same time the factory gauge stays stubbornly on half. I guess LR thought owners would have heart attacks if the gauge actually represented what the car was actually doing [bigrolf]


2 of the most common reasons for overheating on a highish kilometer TD5:

Crumbled plastic head dowels

Viscous fan failure.

I know the first one seems a bit doom and gloom, but it was ( most have gone to steel now, with no further issue ) common.

[Tins]

2 of the most common reasons for overheating on a highish kilometer TD5:

Crumbled plastic head dowels

Viscous fan failure.

I know the first one seems a bit doom and gloom, but it was ( most have gone to steel now, with no further issue ) common.

Had the first one. 150,000 ks ago done 360 now. . Yep, head moved. The fan is on my list. Thing is, this was reasonably sudden, and it happened after silly me didn't tighten the cap properly ( right arm doesn't work properly atm ) Car has been rock solid prior.

[Tins]

John, surely this is not news to you!

No, not at all. Just surprising the range of temps the gauge refuses to acknowledge.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

No, not at all. Just surprising the range of temps the gauge refuses to acknowledge.
I was watching my temp. Gauge is the same from like 80 something to 110.

[Tins]

I was watching my temp. Gauge is the same from like 80 something to 110.

Yep. 77 to 110° in my case Then the gauge starts to move and the engine de-rates. Mine cools quickly as well, which suggests to ma an air lock or a moving restriction. Something like I've seen before when people have knocked welch plugs in rather than removing them.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Yep. 77 to 110° in my case Then the gauge starts to move and the engine de-rates. Mine cools quickly as well, which suggests to ma an air lock or a moving restriction. Something like I've seen before when people have knocked welch plugs in rather than removing them.
Interesting! Fortunately never quite got to derating.

I changed the coolant before the trip. But was just a flush. With the TD5Spy I've definitely got more awareness, but I have run the old nanocom in the past and not seen anything like that temp. I seem to remember last time I was surprised when it got to 95 going up the toowoomba range.

I also don't recall hearing the fan.

[Tins]

Interesting! Fortunately never quite got to derating.

I changed the coolant before the trip. But was just a flush. With the TD5Spy I've definitely got more awareness, but I have run the old nanocom in the past and not seen anything like that temp. I seem to remember last time I was surprised when it got to 95 going up the toowoomba range.

I also don't recall hearing the fan.

Mine has been fine, until now. It will maintain 82° for ages and then rocket up. And then come down just as quickly. I know it's not the sensor because the car does get hot, visibly. Thing to do is pull the rad, change the thermostat, and bleed it properly to see what happens. I don't believe it's the HG, but it probably soon will be......
Wish both my arms worked..

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I discovered my clutch fan tonight.. despite "feeling good" when spun, the shaft that the bimetallic strip operates had seized, or the bimetallic strip was too rusty.. or something. Either way when hit with heat it wasn't turning the shaft and locking up. High temps explained!