Not starting

[swaffi]

Hi, my wife has a 2013 evoque diesel and fails to start. Initially the battery was drained (don't know why). I charged it back up with the battery in the car and it would not go. I took the leads off and gave them a check and replaced them, the car then started up. Weird, right? Just before this, also the dash finally gave her an "immobiliser fault" message. Anyway, she had to leave the car out to the side of the garage for a bit and after a couple of hours it did not start, and it hasn't started since. The battery is not even 1 year old and is of good quality.
Now, it did give a couple of clicks earlier and no start, later, it then gave out a few sparks from the negative terminal, since then, nothing, but every thing else goes. I checked the positive fuse and it looks good. Might have to chuck the cheap code reader on tomorrow and see what gives. Any suggestions? Thanks

[rovers4]

First thing to check are the "lockouts": Ensure car is in Neutral, or in an auto in Park, handbrake firmly on, and not sure about this, but doors all securely shut.
Then see if a wiggle of those functions changes anything.

Next check for loose connectors on the engine, or even corroded connectors, and oxidation of same.
After that you would need to think about diagnostics, so call a patrol service. Always wise to have one available" Motoring club, insurance off shoot, etc.

[swaffi]

First thing to check are the "lockouts": Ensure car is in Neutral, or in an auto in Park, handbrake firmly on, and not sure about this, but doors all securely shut.
Then see if a wiggle of those functions changes anything.

Next check for loose connectors on the engine, or even corroded connectors, and oxidation of same.
After that you would need to think about diagnostics, so call a patrol service. Always wise to have one available" Motoring club, insurance off shoot, etc.

Yeah thanks, checking loose connectors with a bit more detail now...here's what I've found so far...

Ok, I ran a car scanning app to diagnose what's going on. The most relevant error codes were P0683 and P0A1A. I believe the P0683 code is most relevant as it relates to the car not starting. This is what AI came up with....there is a communication problem between the glow plug control module and the powertrain control module (PCM) in a diesel engine. This can be caused by a faulty glow plug control module, wiring issues (shorts, open circuits, corrosion), a bad PCM, or problems with the glow plugs themselves. Symptoms include a "check engine" light, engine starting troubles, and performance issues.

Well, we don't have the "check engine light" appearing but we do have engine starting troubles

Does any of this sound familiar to you guys and have you heard of most likely fixes? I'll check out some Youtube videos and see what gives

[Graeme]

Does the starter turn over the engine or is there nothing, not even clicking from the starter motor solenoid?
If nothng at all then check the voltage on the battery leads at the battery (not the battery posts) while attempting to start to confirm that power and earth are getting to the leads.

[swaffi]

Does the starter turn over the engine or is there nothing, not even clicking from the starter motor solenoid?
If nothng at all then check the voltage on the battery leads at the battery (not the battery posts) while attempting to start to confirm that power and earth are getting to the leads.

Most of the time there is no clicking and if there is it it only occurs once. I'll give the battery leads a try. Thanks Graeme. I'll also have to check these settings because I didn't get a notification via email

[swaffi]

I've been searching for the glow plug control module. I've had a look online and although it shows a diagram from a distance, I'm still unable to pinpoint the thing. I've also seen a youtube video of a guy replacing one but the car looks like another model or maybe not even a range rover, not only that but I'm confused as to where the thing is anyway as he takes it out. I'd be grateful if anyone could give me some sort of reference as to where its located. Thanks

[swaffi]

Ok, tested the lead voltage when attempting to start and it read from around 12.1-12.2V. Don't know if the reading supposed to be much higher or not

[Graeme]

As the voltage is still above 12V indicating that not much current is being drawn and that you have heard a click, I would be checking the starter cable and fuse and the connection at the starter motor and also the earth connection between the body and the engine.

Unless the glow-plug icon is constantly showing in the instrument cluster, a non-functioning glow-plug module is not likely to be preventing the starter motor from being operated.

[swaffi]

As the voltage is still above 12V indicating that not much current is being drawn and that you have heard a click, I would be checking the starter cable and fuse and the connection at the starter motor and also the earth connection between the body and the engine.

Unless the glow-plug icon is constantly showing in the instrument cluster, a non-functioning glow-plug module is not likely to be preventing the starter motor from being operated.

Thanks Graeme, I managed to get it going just after I shifted the gear knob as much as I could with my finger towards the left which is park (Yes, it was already in park, as you know, they always are supposed to be) and then I rushed excitedly to tell my wife, she then drove it in the garage and turned it off. We thought that was it but no, it wasn't, not long after this I attempted to turn it on and after a couple of clicks, nothing! Farrrr out! The battery showed 12.59 so the battery hadn't drained. I was hoping that's all it was.

Anyway, I'm inclined as you are to think it is either the starter motor or the connections to it. Keep you posted. Oh, I'm going to give the starter motor a tap but I might have to approach that from the bottom and take the pans off. I still don't know what is going on with these notification settings as I still didn't get yours

[Graeme]

If the gearbox has a shift selector cable then it might be out of adjustment. Alternatively the shift lock-out switch might be faulty.
If you have a suitable diagnostic tool then you could monitor the state of the lock-out switch.

[swaffi]

If the gearbox has a shift selector cable then it might be out of adjustment. Alternatively the shift lock-out switch might be faulty.
If you have a suitable diagnostic tool then you could monitor the state of the lock-out switch.

Okay, I checked the voltage when it was in the garage and it showed around the 12.35 mark. I charged it up for a few hours and can you believe it, it started. I took it for a 10 minute drive, parked it at home, turned it off, and then it at least turned back on again. I've noticed one thing, there is quite the delay in when you hit the ignition button and when it starts. I have the same model car and mine is pretty much instantaneous. Anyway, it wouldn't surprise me if it doesn't go in the morning. I'm starting to rule out the loose wiring idea but it still could be the starter motor itself. I'm yet to check the starter motor relay but if that was cooked I'm not sure if it would start at all. I did use a diagnostic tool although a cheap one and used a free app to find the fault codes. Not one of them showed up as a gearbox issue (It did show up once on the dash as a fault and I just dismissed it the other day) . I might give it another go. Thanks again.

[swaffi]

Okay, it wouldn't go first up in the morning but the battery did not lose any charge. What did happen was this rather big spark coming from the negative leads. The ensuing attempts gave one click at the most.

I played around with the battery connections and eventually got it going. I'm still not convinced that it is a loose connection only because apparently the starter relay can be stuffed and intermittently start your car.

I've done some enquiries and discovered that it's probably not the alternator as the voltage climbs when the car is turned on and it climbs a bit more when revved (not much though)

Anyway, I don't want this to be an ongoing saga but hopefully others down the track can learn from what transpires. Thanks

[Graeme]

If you're seeing sparks then there is a connection issue, perhaps not with the connection to the battery post but with the cable into the connector.

[swaffi]

If you're seeing sparks then there is a connection issue, perhaps not with the connection to the battery post but with the cable into the connector.

I'm starting to believe that Graeme. Ever since I tinkered with them as I turned both sides nearly 90 degrees, it's been going and now I hesitate to place the cover back on just in case it doesn't go.

[Graeme]

Be very careful as sparks around batteries can be deadly. Your battery should have a breather tube which if connected reduces the risk of the battery exploding, but don't delay replacing the cable.

[swaffi]

Be very careful as sparks around batteries can be deadly. Your battery should have a breather tube which if connected reduces the risk of the battery exploding, but don't delay replacing the cable.

Very good advice Graeme. Appreciate it. Thanks

[FisherX]

Could be an issue with your Auxiliary Battery if it has never been changed. Many don't know it is there. I changed one out on an Evoque a couple of years ago. You don't have to use a Land Rover specific battery just take the old one to Battery World and they can match it for you. I remember paying around $30



The 2013 Range Rover Evoque uses a specific AGM auxiliary battery (often with the part number LR024953) located behind the glove box, which is crucial for start-stop systems and other electrical functions when the engine is off. A common cause of a "Auxiliary Battery Malfunction (https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=4f5104ed2b7290e9&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU716AU717&cs=0&q=Auxiliary+Battery+Malfunction&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjooqWviZGQAxXCd2wGHUatG70QxccNegQIAxAB&mstk=AUtExfAXTD0IM-iz4QlTE-z5jdwL3ajtQDkq7yQe25tIFNREWTBIYg19KD7GxImEHYIQpjB3 t60n3SgQimhIc0iNScSw8BUAV4n-yJas8O02uZyTDpO1I2oEUv6CJGZqmLqkCKs&csui=3)" warning is a faulty or old auxiliary battery that needs replacement, a process that also requires the vehicle's Battery Management System (BMS) (https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=4f5104ed2b7290e9&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU716AU717&cs=0&q=Battery+Management+System+%28BMS%29&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjooqWviZGQAxXCd2wGHUatG70QxccNegQIAxAC&mstk=AUtExfAXTD0IM-iz4QlTE-z5jdwL3ajtQDkq7yQe25tIFNREWTBIYg19KD7GxImEHYIQpjB3 t60n3SgQimhIc0iNScSw8BUAV4n-yJas8O02uZyTDpO1I2oEUv6CJGZqmLqkCKs&csui=3) to be reset using an OBD2 scanner.






This video shows the location of the auxiliary battery in a Range Rover Evoque:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkEepF7JaSI






Purpose of the Auxiliary Battery








It powers various electrical systems, including the start-stop function (https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=4f5104ed2b7290e9&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU716AU717&cs=0&q=start-stop+function&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjooqWviZGQAxXCd2wGHUatG70QxccNegQIGBAB&mstk=AUtExfAXTD0IM-iz4QlTE-z5jdwL3ajtQDkq7yQe25tIFNREWTBIYg19KD7GxImEHYIQpjB3 t60n3SgQimhIc0iNScSw8BUAV4n-yJas8O02uZyTDpO1I2oEUv6CJGZqmLqkCKs&csui=3), electronic modules, and features like blind spot assist and lane keeping assist.
It prevents voltage drops during engine start-stop cycles.
It maintains power to electrical components when the main battery is under load or the engine is off.



Symptoms of a Faulty Auxiliary Battery








An "Auxiliary Battery Malfunction" warning light on the instrument cluster.
Issues with electrical systems, such as the radio, GPS, or PDC sensors.
Engine starting difficulties or dim lights.
Safety features like blind spot assist or lane keeping assist may stop working.



Replacement Process & Resetting the BMS




Locate: The auxiliary battery is typically found behind the glove box.




Disconnect: Disconnect the vehicle's main battery first.




Remove Trim: Remove trim around the battery area and the battery clamp.




Install New Battery: Connect the new battery, ensuring the positive terminal is connected before the negative one.




Reset BMS: This is a crucial step. Use an OBD2 scanner to reset the vehicle's Battery Management System (BMS) to inform it of the new battery. Failure to do so can lead to undercharging, overcharging, and other vehicle faults