Discovery 3 TDV6 – Limp Mode After 30 min Driving (P2290)

[Rors]

Hi all,
We bought a 2008 D3 TDV6 2.7 diesel at 197,000kms about 5 months ago. About a month after buying it, the car went into limp mode during some longer drives - 30-45mins usually. It's been in and out of the top Land Rover specialist here in Sydney and they can't seem to figure it out & have never seen this issue before. So looking for any advice that could help us fix this and enjoy our otherwise great truck.
About a week after we got the truck, some clicking/clanking in the rear right wheel got pretty bad and that was resolved with a park brake service. I don't think it's related but that's the only other issue we noticed prior to the first limp mode. We did a full check up at the specialist and got some smaller things taken care of.

Please excuse the long descriptions below but trying to provide as much info as possible:
& THANK YOU for any help or insight you might have!
Symptoms

Vehicle drives normally when cold

After approx 25–30 minutes of driving, vehicle enters limp mode

Limp mode clears after engine shutdown and restart

Issue is repeatable and appears heat/time related

No persistent hard starting

No noticeable misfire, rough running, or excessive smoke

Parking brake operates normally despite warning message


Dash Messages During Fault Event

“Engine System Fault”

Message then briefly flashes to “Parking Brake Fault”

Vehicle remains drivable in limp mode

Fault Codes Logged Before Limp Mode(Vehicle driving normally)
Engine – TDV6

P0087-00 (6C) – Fuel rail/system pressure too low


Instrument Pack

U0132-87 (2C) – Lost communication with ride level control module
(Bus signal/message failure – missing a message)


Parking Brake

U0100-87 (A8) – Lost communication with engine control module / PCM
(Bus signal/message failure – missing a message)


Fault Codes Logged After Limp Mode Occurs(Including pending codes, immediately after shutdown)
Engine – TDV6

P2290-00 (6C) – Injector control pressure too low


Instrument Pack

U0132-87 (24) – Lost communication with ride level control module
(Bus signal/message failure – missing a message)


Parking Brake

U0100-87 (A8) – Lost communication with engine control module / PCM
(Bus signal/message failure – missing a message)


Suspension

U0416-86 (26) – Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(Bus signal/message failure – signal is invalid)


Terrain Response

U0401-94 (24) – Invalid data received from engine control module
(Component failure – unexpected operation)

U0402-94 (24) – Invalid data received from transmission control module
(Component failure – unexpected operation)

U0416-94 (24) – Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(Component failure – unexpected operation)


Transmission

U2023-86 (24) – Control module network signal calibration data
(Bus signal/message failure – signal is invalid)


Additional Information

Multiple U-codes only appear after limp mode

All secondary systems appear to be reacting to engine ECU data becoming invalid

Faults clear after ignition cycle but return after extended driving

Fuel filter visually inspected by Land Rover specialist and reported as OK

Battery condition not yet confirmed


Looking For

Similar experiences with TDV6 limp mode after warm-up

Advice on likely causes or next diagnostic steps

Confirmation of whether this pattern aligns with fuel pressure control issues vs full HPFP failure

[shack]

The top land Rover specialist have seen it before?

Wowsers.

Unfortunately it appears that your HPFP needs replacing, you can try and get it repaired as it's usually one of the valves, but they are about $1k , and with the risk of it not actually fixing it coupled with the high cost of labour, it's not really worth risking.

[PerthDisco]

HPFP is an absolute guaranteed issue on this engine at these kms and age of vehicle. Basic fuel delivery tests and filter change should be done first. The hpfp sets off these faults when it glitches and car then goes into limp mode.

I’ve often wondered since the fault can go away for weeks / months cars must get sold with the issue.

Find a good independent LR mechanic. New pump is same as Ford territory diesel costs around $2300 plus 6 to 8 hours of labour. Your independent will advise recommended other jobs while there and pay heed to that advice.

[DiscoJeffster]

Whomever you are talking it to is NOT a top LR specialist, because if they were they’d know your high pressure fuel pump is cactus because its control valve is sticking.

Your options are
- reconditioned pump (can be fraught with issues as not all recons are the same)
- wreckers (get one from a Ford Territory, easiest to source, likely okay)
- new (expensive and scarce as hens teeth)

Worst part is you can change it, still have the faults, think it must be something else and it was just a bad replacement pump. It’s also not an easy job that has a high labour charge.

Post up your location so the crew can tell you where you should be taking it. Good luck.

[PerthDisco]

In stock

Genuine Ford Territory SZ Diesel Fuel Injection Pump 2.7L Lion V6 (https://www.jeffersonfordparts.com.au/new-genuine-ford-sz-territory-fuel-injection-pump)

[Rors]

Thanks all for your input so far. We're in Sydney eastern suburbs.

[loanrangie]

I recently replaced the HPFP in my 08 D3 and i was getting those fault codes, fitted a low K used Territory pump and its been faultless since.
Any specialist worth their salt show know this.

[Rors]

Hi there, thanks so much for taking the time to respond. Is it possible to fix the control valve, or do you see a full pump replacement as the only option?



Whomever you are talking it to is NOT a top LR specialist, because if they were they’d know your high pressure fuel pump is cactus because its control valve is sticking.

Your options are
- reconditioned pump (can be fraught with issues as not all recons are the same)
- wreckers (get one from a Ford Territory, easiest to source, likely okay)
- new (expensive and scarce as hens teeth)

Worst part is you can change it, still have the faults, think it must be something else and it was just a bad replacement pump. It’s also not an easy job that has a high labour charge.

Post up your location so the crew can tell you where you should be taking it. Good luck.

[DiscoJeffster]

Hi there, thanks so much for taking the time to respond. Is it possible to fix the control valve, or do you see a full pump replacement as the only option?

Replacement unfortunately. If they can’t recondition them and get them 100% each time, the likelihood of a DIY fix is low. Some have tried with no success.

[BradC]

You can’t repair the valves. Apparently replacements are available. From the anecdotal evidence of those that have stripped pumps the valves (usually only one) get damaged from debris from the built in feed pump. If that is the case, replacing the valve would be a relatively short term fix.

If you can source a brand new pump with warranty I strongly recommend you do so.