Accessing diaphragm on fuel pressure regulator on d2 td5

[WTF123]

Hi all,
From underneath the car I can see fuel dripping out of the hole on the side of the diaphragm housing on the FPR.
My question is it easier to unbolt the starter and move it out of the way so I can get needle nose pliers in there to replace the diaphragm rather than from above?

Second question (less important) why do some of these have a barbed pipe coming out of them and others like the one I have, just the hole?

Cheers, Pete

[shack]

I think it's possibly easiest to remove the FPR altogether, it's not necessarily the regulator that's leaking, there's a few others that can as well, new gaskets can overcome this, and the filter in the head can also be checked (replaced $$) at the same time.

Secondly, I think you are referring to the difference between the EU2 FPR and head, and the EU3 FPR and head.

[WTF123]

Thanks Shak, I actually had it off as I'm rebuilding a td5. I replaced all the gaskets and orings except the diaphragm, that's why I thought it might be easier from underneath.
Didn't really want to undo everything again.... but if i have to...

[shack]

I believe you can change it without removing the whole unit.

Someone did it on one of the UK forums on a D2, I can't remember the procedure though sorry.

[sharmy]

If you have to take the lot off the hard to get at bottom bolt can be accessed through the drivers side wheel arch. Replace the diaphragm with a Bosch unit part no 0 280 160 575. If you can't get one I have one here. I also have one of the not so good ones, part no CFI-8061. Both new.

[WTF123]

That's ok, I'll keep looking ?

[WTF123]

If you have to take the lot off the hard to get at bottom bolt can be accessed through the drivers side wheel arch. Replace the diaphragm with a Bosch unit part no 0 280 160 575. If you can't get one I have one here. I also have one of the not so good ones, part no CFI-8061. Both new.

Hi Sharmy, i have a MSA 100000 still in wax paper and this one which has no writing on it at all....ugh for some reason the jpg wont upload its one that has a barbed pipe instead of just a hole

[WTF123]

I have 2. A MSA 100000 in wax paper and another one in a pack with orings, metal gasket and a diaphragm that has a barbed pipe instead of just a hole.
I wanted to upload a jpg of it but for some reason it wont upload.

[thai_tiger]

[QUOTE=WTF123;3263376] diaphragm that has a barbed pipe instead of just a hole.


Its just a drain port the barbed type is just to retain a rubber hose as its a multi fit item and on some cars fuel will need to be drained away safely

It is possible to replace the diaphragm in situ but its an absolute pain (need a perfect shaped circlip pillars which unless very lucky never seems be in the correct position) and will probably end up removing the fpr, unless the trans is out of the way[smilebigeye]

[Blknight.aus]

you need the 100mm 1.2mm (might be 1.8)tipped 90 degree bent nosed circlip pliers If you are lucky the clip is in a position you can get onto it with the pliers and it can be done from underneath or coming up from alongside. ITs easier to do if you drop the transmission mounts out and carefully let it sit down but if the circlip is in the wrong spot you'll need to work it around or you'll need to remove the FPR as whole to get at it.

Good luck

[WTF123]

you need the 100mm 1.2mm (might be 1.8)tipped 90 degree bent nosed circlip pliers If you are lucky the clip is in a position you can get onto it with the pliers and it can be done from underneath or coming up from alongside. ITs easier to do if you drop the transmission mounts out and carefully let it sit down but if the circlip is in the wrong spot you'll need to work it around or you'll need to remove the FPR as whole to get at it.

Good luck

Hi Dave, long time no chat.
Yeah, I spent about 2 hours looking at this from all angles and while I could see one of the circlip holes, I worked out that the other one was definitely at the wrong angle. Definitely did not have the right tool at those angles.
So it was off with the FPR from above, cursing water pipes, fuel cooler, etc etc along the way.
Got it off and pried off the diaphragm. Sucked on the internal pipe and i could hear air coming through from inside.
So took the MSA from the other FPR. That one held a vacumn, no diesel down the throat either?
Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.
Anyway it worked and got it all back together and running in 2 hours.
I should have bit the bullet, would have had it finished by midday rather than 4:30pm!
That first red coopers didn't even touch the sides!

Now onto why it is really hard to start at first like its starving and revs are erratic.... Hmmmmm tomorrow ?


Cheers all.

[WTF123]

Hi Dave, long time no chat.
Yeah, I spent about 2 hours looking at this from all angles and while I could see one of the circlip holes, I worked out that the other one was definitely at the wrong angle. Definitely did not have the right tool at those angles.
So it was off with the FPR from above, cursing water pipes, fuel cooler, etc etc along the way.
Got it off and pried off the diaphragm. Sucked on the internal pipe and i could hear air coming through from inside.
So took the MSA from the other FPR. That one held a vacumn, no diesel down the throat either?
Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.
Anyway it worked and got it all back together and running in 2 hours.
I should have bit the bullet, would have had it finished by midday rather than 4:30pm!
That first red coopers didn't even touch the sides!

Now onto why it is really hard to start at first like its starving and revs are erratic.... Hmmmmm tomorrow ?


Cheers all.

[johnp38]

Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.

You have a 10P motor so no feedpipe to front of engine.

You can still use a FPR housing with feedpipe (later 15P motor), just take off the feedpipe and block the port with a metric sump plug.

195744 Here's one I prepared earlier [bigsmile]

[Blknight.aus]

Hi Dave, long time no chat.
Yeah, I spent about 2 hours looking at this from all angles and while I could see one of the circlip holes, I worked out that the other one was definitely at the wrong angle. Definitely did not have the right tool at those angles.
So it was off with the FPR from above, cursing water pipes, fuel cooler, etc etc along the way.
Got it off and pried off the diaphragm. Sucked on the internal pipe and i could hear air coming through from inside.
So took the MSA from the other FPR. That one held a vacumn, no diesel down the throat either?
Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.
Anyway it worked and got it all back together and running in 2 hours.
I should have bit the bullet, would have had it finished by midday rather than 4:30pm!
That first red coopers didn't even touch the sides!

Now onto why it is really hard to start at first like its starving and revs are erratic.... Hmmmmm tomorrow ?


Cheers all.

thats usually down to either the air bleed in the pump in the tank or the checkvalve that stops it from draining out.

IF it never really settles down unless you have a near full tank of fuel its the air bleed,
if you do a full prime and it then starts and runs happily its the checkvalve. your fuel pump will never sound like it hits full pressure and your top end high load performance might be suffering as well
Also rans are the fuel pump not making enough flow and low power to the pump from a bad elec connection.

[WTF123]

thats usually down to either the air bleed in the pump in the tank or the checkvalve that stops it from draining out.

IF it never really settles down unless you have a near full tank of fuel its the air bleed,
if you do a full prime and it then starts and runs happily its the checkvalve. your fuel pump will never sound like it hits full pressure and your top end high load performance might be suffering as well
Also rans are the fuel pump not making enough flow and low power to the pump from a bad elec connection.

Hey Dave, I got the car as a project (like I need more suffering). Started off that the car wouldn't start at all, so nanocomed it and found the issue was that the cpu was immobilised. Switched all those off.
Car started then to find gas/air coming up (aggressively), through the water reservoir tank.
So blown head gasket. Head taken off, shaved, new gasket, head bolts, etc etc.
Now only starts if i fully run priming, then turn key and still pump accelerator, then starts rough idle, then settles and runs fine.
However fuel pump in tank is loud and does not switch off which I'm used to on my other discos. (or at least quietens down so you can barely hear it)
I remember vaguely that I once replaced the pump only on a disco i had in 2001 with a holden one. I think I even posted about it but under my previous profile.
Anyway, i thought I would start with looking at the pump a clean but probably will end up needing to replace it.
I keep finding things on this car that have been bodgied to the extreme! ?
Maybe i am a gluten for punishment but there is just somethin' about doing it yourself and having a win?

[discorevy]

If the pump is loud because of air / combustion gas, then look at the injector washers, but it may be just a cheap pump, which can be loud in a bad bearing way.

Seeing you've had the head off, you need to recheck your cam timing, as the starting symptoms also describe bad cam timing.

May your punishment be gluten free in future[smilebigeye]


Cheers

[WTF123]

If the pump is loud because of air / combustion gas, then look at the injector washers, but it may be just a cheap pump, which can be loud in a bad bearing way.

Seeing you've had the head off, you need to recheck your cam timing, as the starting symptoms also describe bad cam timing.

May your punishment be gluten free in future[smilebigeye]


Cheers

Yeah yeah.... "glutten" :-)

First replaced the entire cartridge with a different pump. Unfortunately the pump in the replacement would run then stop, I'd give it a wack then it would run....
Can't rely on that so out with the entire cartridge again.
Took a look at the one that was originally in it, the pump filter was chock full of s**t.
Cleaned everything with 100% pure alcohol. Put it back in.
Still a little noisy but WAY less than before.
Ran standard prime sequence as per manual, car started.
Oh, when I did the head I was smart enough to mark cam cog, cam timechain, etc and slot in flywheel to make sure nothing moved.

I'll look for a replacement fuelpump anyway, I found the holden corresponding pump that matches the VDO pump. I would prefer it was as quiet and as new as possible.. :)

Now onto high pressure oil hoses that I have found are held together with 3 hose clamps at both ends!!

[AK83]

Yeah yeah.... "glutten" :-)

....

Nah, nah! ... glutton! [bigrolf]

[d2dave]

Yeah yeah.... "glutten" :-)



I'll look for a replacement fuelpump anyway, I found the holden corresponding pump that matches the VDO pump. I would prefer it was as quiet and as new as possible.. :)



Can I have some info on the this fuel pump please?