EV Landy Conversion - 8 years on

[goingbush]

Its been over 8 years now since the first drive of my EV Lightweight Landy.

Since that day , Its been daily driven every day . not far , usually 20 km . just a local runabout shopping cart.
Range isnt great but the driving experience is awesome . If I had to give up all my cars (And I have some cool cars ) and keep only one , it would be this one.

The tech was old school when I built it - its even more old school now , The Batteries are holding up well, after a few years a few cells start topping out early (on charge) so I plug in an external load (connect it to an inverter to run the house) which bottom balances the battery pack & it behaves again. For another few years.

In the last few years I added disc brakes & power steering ( bad shoulder + supermarket car park parking) .

If I was to do another or if I was to redo this one I'd run a Nissan Leaf conversion with resolve hack & delete the clutch / gearbox. but still keep the Transfer case. of course.


Below is the first ever youtube of it with the date stamp on the dashcam .

https://youtu.be/MYLrlbNpGxw

And another one from 2 years ago.


https://youtu.be/yiSOpbeanKo


Theres got to be dozens of EV converted Landys about now but I never hear about them . (I'm not on here much anymore) Anyone else done a conversion , or got a Jaunt conversion ??

I set up a Facebook Landy EV Conversion page about 8 years ago but its gone silent, hardly a post anymore.

[RANDLOVER]

Tomorrow on SBS One from 10h00 to 11h00 AEST they are showing a Defender EV conversion in Vintage Voltage, a show about converting classic cars to electric. It's also on today at the same time about a Royal Enfield motorbike conversion.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Very cool. I love that you're using it as a daily!

[RANDLOVER]

British Off-road did a Perentie EV conversion which appeared in the Motor Trader's Magazine...Motor Trader, March 2022 | MTAQ (https://mtaq.com.au/motor-trader-march-2022/)

[goingbush]

British Off-road did a Perentie EV conversion which appeared in the Motor Trader's Magazine...Motor Trader, March 2022 | MTAQ (https://mtaq.com.au/motor-trader-march-2022/)

That's great, thanks for the Link, I'll post that up in the FB EV Landy group. Hyper 9 is a bit small for a Perente I'd have thought , But a cool conversion for sure.

[goingbush]

Tomorrow on SBS One from 10h00 to 11h00 AEST they are showing a Defender EV conversion in Vintage Voltage, a show about converting classic cars to electric. It's also on today at the same time about a Royal Enfield motorbike conversion.
Thanks, I'll miss that but sure to find it on Catch up. Fan of the RE too, I'll need to see both those episodes.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

https://youtu.be/9XyY1Ez6qL0?si=wsQqWMy36QgnNXI0

[goingbush]

https://youtu.be/9XyY1Ez6qL0?si=wsQqWMy36QgnNXI0

Not a fan of those Tesla Powered Conversions . There is no Low Range or Center diff lock , Ive yet to see a video of them doing proper slow off road , its all wheelspin , Can't have 0-100 in 6 seconds and Technical off road without a transfer case , - Happy to be proven wrong.

[DoubleChevron]

Not a fan of those Tesla Powered Conversions . There is no Low Range or Center diff lock , Ive yet to see a video of them doing proper slow off road , its all wheelspin , Can't have 0-100 in 6 seconds and Technical off road without a transfer case , - Happy to be proven wrong.

Its pointless. I love the conversion done here, its pure ... it is what it is. It doesn't try to pretend to be anything other than a land rover that does small local trips. Its perfect for the task it was built to do. What is more awesome than something you build and drive yourself everyday. The tesla powered ones a stupid, you might as well just buy a tesla if that is what you want. Its kinda useless as a 4wd or towcar with the tesla driveline... what is the point?

seeya
Shane L.

[NavyDiver]

Its pointless. I love the conversion done here, its pure ... it is what it is. It doesn't try to pretend to be anything other than a land rover that does small local trips. Its perfect for the task it was built to do. What is more awesome than something you build and drive yourself everyday. The tesla powered ones a stupid, you might as well just buy a tesla if that is what you want. Its kinda useless as a 4wd or towcar with the tesla driveline... what is the point?

seeya
Shane L.
Yes of course. The battery swap coming will make this the weapon to beat anything I suspect. [thumbsupbig] My next will tow my boat to and do 1000 plus and charge in less than 5minutes (at some places [bigwhistle][bigwhistle][bigwhistle])

[workingonit]

[QUOTE=goingbush;3263651

I set up a Facebook Landy EV Conversion page about 8 years ago...[/QUOTE]

Like what you've done. I'm not on Facebook...did you post a lot of technical detail on how you built it ie circuit diagrams, component brands, adaptions to fit, etc? PDF book we might buy?

Not having a vehicle of my own by which to escape I spent 2 weeks over Christmas trapped in caravan culture on a NSW mid coast camp ground...learning a lot about lithium batteries, inverters and Anderson plugs (half their conversation...the other half on how to stop water leaks) so I feel primed to start a LRover conversion...[bigrolf]

[goingbush]

Like what you've done. I'm not on Facebook...did you post a lot of technical detail on how you built it ie circuit diagrams, component brands, adaptions to fit, etc? PDF book we might buy?

Not having a vehicle of my own by which to escape I spent 2 weeks over Christmas trapped in caravan culture on a NSW mid coast camp ground...learning a lot about lithium batteries, inverters and Anderson plugs (half their conversation...the other half on how to stop water leaks) so I feel primed to start a LRover conversion...[bigrolf]


For a project like this Facebook is can be as much a useful resource as a distraction. You just have to ignore the noise.

I wrote a webpage www.goingbush.com/ptev.html (http://www.goingbush.com/ptev.html) as I was building, that may be helpful but I'd do it differently now . I'd use a Nissan Leaf motor & a resolve controller , Even a Nissan battery can be made to fit a landy . (or repackaged - but a lot more effort)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

For a project like this Facebook is can be as much a useful resource as a distraction. You just have to ignore the noise.

I wrote a webpage www.goingbush.com/ptev.html (http://www.goingbush.com/ptev.html) as I was building, that may be helpful but I'd do it differently now . I'd use a Nissan Leaf motor & a resolve controller , Even a Nissan battery can be made to fit a landy . (or repackaged - but a lot more effort)
The big issue with the Nissan Leaf battery seems to be that it doesn't have active cooling so seems quite short lived in the Australian context. I guess the advantage to this is there are plenty of replacement battery solutions out there.

Is this a consideration? Is active cooling possible or necessary for a conversion?

[goingbush]

The big issue with the Nissan Leaf battery seems to be that it doesn't have active cooling so seems quite short lived in the Australian context. I guess the advantage to this is there are plenty of replacement battery solutions out there.

Is this a consideration? Is active cooling possible or necessary for a conversion?

TBH I wouldn't worry about cooling , warming bis more of an issue. My batteries perform much better in Summer , get a shorter range in winter , longer range in Summer . Not a deal breaker.

My philosphy is keep it simple, no un-nescessary crap = less weight , less complications,

[Captain_Rightfoot]

TBH I wouldn't worry about cooling , warming bis more of an issue. My batteries perform much better in Summer , get a shorter range in winter , longer range in Summer . Not a deal breaker.

My philosphy is keep it simple, no un-nescessary crap = less weight , less complications,

I'm not sure where you are - but I understand that heat kills the leaf batteries. Fast charging, and high ambient temps. I gather in QLD it's not uncommon for batteries to be replaced very early on. I looked at a leaf in a nissan dealer with 30k and he said "don't worry - the battery has already been replaced". OMG

Nissan has apparently tried to mittigate this by curtailing charging as the batteries heat up while fast charging - even in very cold climates. Apparently nissan curtails fast charging at 30-35 degrees. That's just a normal daytime temp up here in summer.. let alone if you add charging.

I guess you can just rule fast charging out, but depending on the application it might somewhat limit range! Leaf's have already given the world EV range anxiety...

Google "Rapidgate"

[goingbush]

I'm not sure where you are - but I understand that heat kills the leaf batteries. Fast charging, and high ambient temps. I gather in QLD it's not uncommon for batteries to be replaced very early on. I looked at a leaf in a nissan dealer with 30k and he said "don't worry - the battery has already been replaced". OMG

Nissan has apparently tried to mittigate this by curtailing charging as the batteries heat up while fast charging - even in very cold climates. Apparently nissan curtails fast charging at 30-35 degrees. That's just a normal daytime temp up here in summer.. let alone if you add charging.

I guess you can just rule fast charging out, but depending on the application it might somewhat limit range! Leaf's have already given the world EV range anxiety...

Google "Rapidgate"

You just adressed the number 1 EV battery killer , FAST CHARGING .. Personally I would never -EVER fast charge an EV battery , Each time you do your killing the battery a lille bit, Especially Lithium, Solid State or Sodium may be diferent . 2nd EV battery killer is charging to 100% I plug in at home and charge at 3.3kw . I have temp sensors, The dont ever go above ambient, Ihave my BMS set to stop charging at 80% , and the car goes into limp when they get down to 20% . I paid 11K for my batteries & the plan is to keep them for 30 years.

If you go on long trips & need to Fast charge you better off with ICE .

[Captain_Rightfoot]

You just adressed the number 1 EV battery killer , FAST CHARGING .. Personally I would never -EVER fast charge an EV battery , Each time you do your killing the battery a lille bit, Especially Lithium, Solid State or Sodium may be diferent . 2nd EV battery killer is charging to 100% I plug in at home and charge at 3.3kw . I have temp sensors, The dont ever go above ambient, Ihave my BMS set to stop charging at 80% , and the car goes into limp when they get down to 20% . I paid 11K for my batteries & the plan is to keep them for 30 years.

If you go on long trips & need to Fast charge you better off with ICE .
What battery chemistry are they? If they are leafs i think they are NMC.

I think they are all a bit different.

Actually ...


First-generation Leafs (2011–2017) utilized LMO with Lithium Nickel Oxide. 2018+ models shifted to NMC cathode chemistry to allow for greater range in a similar space

[workingonit]

I wrote a webpage www.goingbush.com/ptev.html (http://www.goingbush.com/ptev.html) as I was building, that may be helpful

I've had an annoying number of issues with oxides forming on the legs of spade fuses in the Land Rovers, and melting their plastic surrounds as they 'micro' arc in their holders in a Tojo.

I noticed on your build web page you referred to Sanchem NO-OX-ID A-Special conductive grease and wondered if I should try this grease to improve contact and reduce oxidisation.

Can't find any Australian retailer. Amazon says something like 'out of stock and don't know when it will be back'. Ebay stuff looks like its repackaged 'something or other' with a home made paper label stuck on it to give credibility. The manufacturers site seems to indicate it may accept orders, but if possible I would prefer to get it locally. I thought Jaycar might have something, but no.

Hope you don't mind, but could I ask where you got your supply? Is there an equivalent alternative you know of in Oz? Thanks.

[oka374]

Jaycar have Conductive Carbon Grease which I've been using for years on battery connections and blade fuses in vehicles. Believe me Landrovers and Tojo's aren't the only ones with blade fuse connection issues. Older Volvo's, Oka's and pretty much everything succumbs eventually.
The big problem is the different materials used for the holders which are usually brass and the fuse blades which are alloy and oxidise quickly. I used to make it a yearly habit to remove all blade fuses and scrape the blades before I started using the conductive grease, clean the baldes, a very light smear of grease and reinsert, never had another problem with blade oxidation.
I use it on all battery connections whether post or bolt/eye as it prevents High resistance connection on anything.

[workingonit]

Jaycar have Conductive Carbon Grease...a very light smear of grease and reinsert, never had another problem with blade oxidation.
I use it on all battery connections whether post or bolt/eye as it prevents High resistance connection on anything.

Thanks for the useful insight, Jaycar it is then. Still hope goingbush will chime in.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Jaycar have Conductive Carbon Grease which I've been using for years on battery connections and blade fuses in vehicles. Believe me Landrovers and Tojo's aren't the only ones with blade fuse connection issues. Older Volvo's, Oka's and pretty much everything succumbs eventually.
The big problem is the different materials used for the holders which are usually brass and the fuse blades which are alloy and oxidise quickly. I used to make it a yearly habit to remove all blade fuses and scrape the blades before I started using the conductive grease, clean the baldes, a very light smear of grease and reinsert, never had another problem with blade oxidation.
I use it on all battery connections whether post or bolt/eye as it prevents High resistance connection on anything.
That's really interesting. Sounds like something that used sparingly could be useful in older cars.

[oka374]

I had a 740 turbo Volvo which melted the main fusebox a few times over the years because of the fusebox contacts being brass and the fuse spades being alloy. The brass bits lose tension and the alloy soades oxidise which means a High Resistance joint and creates heat which buggers theings completely.
After the first time the smoke started coming out of the centre console (fusebox was under the radio in centre of dash) while stopped at the lights, a/c on flat out on a 35 degree afternoon coming home from work I realised what the problem was and bypassed the heavy draw fuses and greased them all.
It became an annual job to go through all the fuses on the whole fleet and scrape the fuse spades back to solid metal and after I started greasing them after cleaning there were no more problems.
A troopy we had at the time also suffered from melted fuseholders on a couple of high draw items.
You don't need much grease, the thinnest smear just to coat the spades is enough.
I've used Lanox for the same purpose and it works well until it really dries out and goes hard which probably at that point makes it worse.

[workingonit]

Have had some email conversations with Sanchem, that make 'NP-OX-ID A Special'.

Minimum purchase US$265 plus UPS postage - roughly 9 tubes of 8 ounce each for example - bit more than I need - well over US$30 a tube or AUS$42 @ 70 cents to the dollar exchange. Ebay etc prices are all over the shop for just 2 oz containers and in some cases asking more than $42.

Sanchem export overseas, but do not keep specific records of whether the importers had any trouble with their own country's customs regulations, so nothing on imports into Australia - which would have been useful to confirm if your order would clear Australian customs or not.

Product sold on ebay, amazon etc claiming to be 'NP-OX-ID A Special' likely comes from resellers who have bought bulk supplies from Sanchem, but Sanchem cannot guarantee that there is not product substitution.

Sanchem is unfamiliar with the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS), pointing to 'NP-OX-ID A Special' beings certified under many other standards ie RoHS and why under those certifications the product could not be imported into Australia. The SDS sheet says it passes Californian Proposition 65 and is 'noted as listed or exempt' by Australia under 'International Lists National Inventory' - Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals (AIIC), formerly AICS.

An AI search says there are complaints on line by people whose imports have been banned by Australian Customs. Not being listed under AICIS has been cited as one cause for the banning.

Searched the AICIS site under inventory registered, product under assessment, or registered business and nothing comes up. Have put in a query with AICIS | Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) (https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/)

Otherwise the only other recourse to get the product is through amazon (if and when they ever get more product), ebay, and a few other online retailers. There is the risk of being scammed, but also, even if the product is genuine will it get past customs.

Its just occurred to me that I haven't asked AI on the off chance it knows where Goingbush got the product,

Well, an AI overview says - "Based on the "Goingbush" 1973 Land Rover Series III EV conversion project documentation, the author mentions purchasing components for the build from [B]Milbay Australia". Tried calling them to confirm if they sell the grease but only able to leave a message.

[BradC]

I had a 740 turbo Volvo which melted the main fusebox a few times over the years because of the fusebox contacts being brass and the fuse spades being alloy. The brass bits lose tension and the alloy soades oxidise which means a High Resistance joint and creates heat which buggers theings completely.


Volvo 740 fuse boxes were ****. The high current fuses were high beam, A/C compressor and HVAC blower. They all melted over time.

I used Penetrox on the fuse blades, but the high current circuits all got bypassed by externally fused relays. It wasn't a great design. Up until the 740 they used Copper/Ceramic fuses. They were pretty much indestructible. The fuse box had fat brass contacts and the fuses were pretty much temperature indifferent.

The 740 was the first move to blade fuses and the fuse carried more current than the fusebox. The Fusebox would start to melt which then increased resistance and melted the plastic around the fuses, resulting in a molten mess.

I had a bottle of Penetrox from doing roof mounted Antenna connections. Basically a thick zinc/oil paste. It helped, but for the high current circuits the only fix was bypassing.

[Graeme]

I use an electrical contact cleaner and lubricant spray available from Jaycar which leaves a thin coating that prevents oxidation, although I don't generally use it on fuses as I've not had such heating issues.

[RANDLOVER]

Vintage Voltage will be showing a Series 2A conversion to EV on SBS One on Sunday 22 March at 10h10.

[RANDLOVER]

Bump....SIIA EV conversion show is on today, see aforementioned.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Bump....SIIA EV conversion show is on today, see aforementioned.
How do you keep up with this stuff. I'm in awe.