Correct Procedure to Fit Exhaust Manifold/Turbo Studs?

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

I have Googled this to death but I am still no wiser! I am replacing TD5 exhaust manifold studs (10 mounted in alloy head) and turbo to manifold mounting studs (3 mounted the cast iron turbo mounting flange).
What is the best practice/correct procedure for tightening the studs:

studs are screwed in finger tight then after fitting turbo or manifold, nuts are tightened to specified torque?
studs are screwed in to shoulder and lightly nipped up using double nut method. Then after fitting turbo or manifold, nuts are tightened to specified torque?
studs are screwed in to shoulder and tighten stud to same torque spec as stud nuts (e.g. 30Nm for turbo to manifold mounting studs) using double nut method. Then after fitting turbo or manifold, nuts are tightened to specified torque?
studs are screwed in to shoulder and tighten stud to a reduced torque spec (if so what torque spec?). Then after fitting turbo or manifold, nuts are tightened to specified torque?

Also, for the stud mounting thread, is addition of high temperature anti-seize recommended. I could see merit if using method 1 or 2 but I would be hesitant to do this for method 3 or 4 as it would result in over torquing due to modified K factor.
Any help appreciated.

[Graeme]

I would use #2 but tighten a little more than just nipped-up. Being exhaust manifold studs that are known to break, I wouldn't use stud-locker that I might use elsewhere.
I don't think that anti-sieze would be appropriate but others might disagree.

[Reddirt204]

I'm about to change my studs out and am planning on #2, just a bit more than nipped and using anti seize on the nuts as I'd want the nuts to undo not the studs if/when I need to change things later (I've got some Wurth studs on the way)

Cheers

Redd

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

...using anti seize on the nuts ...

Be careful using anti-seize on nuts. This will change the nut factor ('K' factor) of the torque specification. The specified torque of 25Nm was predicated on lightly oiled new steel threads which I believe has a 'K' factor of 0.18
Some anti-seizes can drop the 'K' factor to 0.10. If you are buying Wurth studs, I can recommend getting some of their copper coated flanged exhaust nuts (https://eshop.wurth.com.au/Product-categories/Exhaust-nut-type-S/31026502010703.cyid/3102.cgid/en/GB/AUD/) as well.

https://media.witglobal.net/source/eshop/stmedia/0100/images/std.lang.all/resolutions/category/576px/3663553.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

If the studs dont have a listed spec, use the torque for the nuts using either the double nut or a stud setting tool.

in the real world...

I wind them in finger tight with loctite 263 and then skip the loctite nut.
]

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

....I wind them in finger tight with loctite 263....

How easy/hard are the exhaust manifold studs to remove later if needed? Do you have to heat them up?

[AK83]

When I did mine(TD5) I used Lokseal as a very medium threadlock.
I don't know how hard or easy to remove medium strength loctites are, but I do know that loxeal is easy to remove when you need too.

Loxeal is a thread sealant, not locking compound, but works really well as a lightweight locking compound.
Half my excavator is tightened with the stuff(stupid chinese build quality).

[Blknight.aus]

How easy/hard are the exhaust manifold studs to remove later if needed? Do you have to heat them up?

usually no, loctite 263 is strong, but not that strong.

[Graeme]

But likely to make it more difficult to remove the remains of a broken stud.