Offroad Trailer Build

[walker]

I have finally started the off-road trailer today. After many good...and some not so good recommendations for raising the tent on the trailer I have decided not to do it and leave the tent in a fixed position.

All up the trailer should (has to) way less than 700kg full loaded.

It will have
Disco rims
Al-ko axles, hubs and off-road electric brakes and leaf suspension with shocks.
Tregg hitch
60l water tank
pull-out kitchen at rear
Access to front storage area from each side.

Starting the basic set out of the chassis. I made up a right angle jig to speed things along a bit and hopefully make sure everything stays true. I always find welding tube like this causes it to bend out of shape. I'm sure there are ways to stop this happening....I just don't know them

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/09/170.jpg

Chassis completed and welded ready for the suspension

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/09/171.jpg

[seqfisho]

Hi Adam,

Most of the trailers that I've looked at in the last 12 months and especially the ones with a proven offroad ability usually have the A frame arm continue all the way to the front of the spring hangers and run under the chassis or frame of the trailer box.

I beleive this is to reduce the stress point on the drawbar where the trailer box and drawbar join.

It looks good though, I wish I could weld and had the tools to do such a job, it would probably save me about $40K next year:o

[walker]

Yes, I lokked at all that. The chassis that I have done is based on the "Ultimate" camper. The centre bar does run all the way through.

It is not like you have the full weight of the trailer on the drawbar ana an army trailer would have just the centre bar, the A-frame I have done is more bracing than anything and the load is spread over 3 bars instead of 2.

[seqfisho]

Yeah it's probably overkill on most of them or to support all the weight that the load onto the drawbar with kitchens fridges and more storage than inside the trailer in some cases:o

How do you intend to keep the weight under 700kg loaded, and why do you need to if your fitting brakes?

[walker]

Well, unless I have calculated very badly the weight should easily fall below 700kg. The main thing is that the trailer will not be used to transport luggage etc

Trailer (including rack to hold tent) - 350-400kg
Rooftop tent - 60kg
Water - 60kg
Pull out kitchen - 40kg max
spare tyre -30kg
other luggage 50kg

TOTAL - 640kg

Brakes are going on because I am getting them for nothing (dad's mate is managing director of Al-ko) and I like the idea of brakes when going down steep hills or sandunes in the desert.


What have missed???

[matbor]

Well, unless I have calculated very badly the weight should easily fall below 700kg. The main thing is that the trailer will not be used to transport luggage etc

Trailer (including rack to hold tent) - 350-400kg
Rooftop tent - 60kg
Water - 60kg
Pull out kitchen - 40kg max
spare tyre -30kg
other luggage 50kg

TOTAL - 640kg

Brakes are going on because I am getting them for nothing (dad's mate is managing director of Al-ko) and I like the idea of brakes when going down steep hills or sandunes in the desert.


What have missed???


The beer :p, mind u should say that would go pretty quickly !!

[walker]

Ahhhh. No I did not forget that! :D

The fridge will remain in the Disco.

I managed to download all the data sheets for the steel am using and the trailer is going to be even lighter than I estimated. The trailer itself should be just under 300kg.

[sclarke]

How are you doing the Suspension???

[walker]

How are you doing the Suspension???

Did you read my initial post!!! :p :p :p

Or was there something else you wanted to know?

[walker]

Ok, here is another update on the build. I got the axles and springs this week and have attached them. Unfortunately they used 9/16 wheel studs instead of 14mm which the D2 has. On any other vehicle this would be fine, but LR, in all their wisdom makes the D2 wheels different, they dont use a tapered nut, so you HAVE to use their wheel nuts on the alloys. So, I have tracked down some 14mm studs and will replace them next week.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/09/12.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/09/13.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/09/14.jpg

[Pedro_The_Swift]

who do I have to kill to get a garage like that???


really?

how many bullets?

damn,,

;):D

[walker]

Here are the latest pics of the trailer.

Water tank mounted with protection guard


http://www.lrocv.com.au/gallery/albums/userpics/10024/DSC04640.JPG

Wheels on finally

http://www.lrocv.com.au/gallery/albums/userpics/10024/DSC04642.JPG

http://www.lrocv.com.au/gallery/albums/userpics/10024/DSC04643.JPG

[Buggerluggs]

Looking good Adam! Come on get on with it I want to see it in its finished state!

[disco_ute]

Bling bling!! going to look good behind yr silver taxi!!

[walker]

Ok, I have been a bit slack with the pics lately but here is 1 more. It doesn't look like I have done much more, but most of my time has been in designing and building the pull out kitchen, which you cant see yet.

All the framing is finished, the floor is down and I have cut all the side panels and cut out all the access holes.

I just have to install a partition to section off between the kitchen and the storage area and then I can glue on the side panels.

I wanted a stainless steel benchtop for the kitchen but after ringing a couple of places the best price I could get was $650:o . So I had given up on that idea and had resigned myself to marine ply. Then my dad suggested trying the local metal scrap yard.....:D I found a piece exactly the right size, still with the protective platic on it and it cost me $30!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/68.jpg

[Redback]

A quick question Adam, did you have trouble getting the electric brake hubs to suit the D2 rims, the reason i ask is i want to go electric but don't all the dramas i went through getting drum hubs to suit my Disco 2.

Looking good by the way

Baz.

[walker]

In one word...YES. It was a real hassle, but knowing what I do now it would be ok next time.

When I ordered the hubs, I asked for D2 hubs which was not a problem except that Alco do not use metric studs only imperial. He said that he would use 9/16 which is very very close to the 14mm which the D2 has.

But I was not really thinking when i did this because the D2 alloy wheels are unlike almost all other wheels. They do not use a tapered wheel nut, which meant I had to use the proper D2 wheel nuts...which meant I did need 14mm wheels studs not 9/16.

So, I had to find someone who sold the 14mm wheel studs (Landrover do not sell them, you have to buy the entire hub.:mad: ), then knock out the old studs. Luckily the splines on the 14mm studs are 0.5mm larger than the 9/6 studs so I just had to drill out the holes and re-insert new studs.

If I did it again, I would buy and supply whoever was making the hubs with the wheel studs, so it would not be a problem.

[Redback]

In one word...YES. It was a real hassle, but knowing what I do now it would be ok next time.

When I ordered the hubs, I asked for D2 hubs which was not a problem except that Alco do not use metric studs only imperial. He said that he would use 9/16 which is very very close to the 14mm which the D2 has.

But I was not really thinking when i did this because the D2 alloy wheels are unlike almost all other wheels. They do not use a tapered wheel nut, which meant I had to use the proper D2 wheel nuts...which meant I did need 14mm wheels studs not 9/16.

So, I had to find someone who sold the 14mm wheel studs (Landrover do not sell them, you have to buy the entire hub.:mad: ), then knock out the old studs. Luckily the splines on the 14mm studs are 0.5mm larger than the 9/6 studs so I just had to drill out the holes and re-insert new studs.

If I did it again, I would buy and supply whoever was making the hubs with the wheel studs, so it would not be a problem.

Thanks Adam, i thought so, i found that too, i also found out that the PCD of the D2 is 120mm PCD same as the HQ and Commodore, i have some 14mm studs i'll call around to see if i can get disc hubs made and give them the studs to put in.

Baz.

[George130]

Looking very impressive.

[disco_ute]

More PICS!

[walker]

More PICS!

Yes yes, ok Silicon Boy!

I have been away working this week (yes I do work sometimes) but will have some pics tomorrow with all the side panels on and the mudguards.:)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

its tomorrow!!!:p:D

waiting,,
waiting,,

[walker]

its tomorrow!!!:p:D

waiting,,
waiting,,

Ok...Update


I have woken up! :p :p :p

[disco_ute]

Ok...Update


I have woken up! :p :p :p

Thats great! So did I :p

[spudboy]

Looks fab. I love these 'building' threads.

[walker]

Here are the latest pics. Got the mudguards on today and the step at the rear sides for the jerry cans.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/32.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/33.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/34.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

Mate thats looking smicko...

[disco_ute]

not bad ladyboy!!

[Piddler]

I would like to convert my 7x5 trailer that has standard holden hq hubs and rims to fit the land rover D2 rims. Preferably I would like to have hubs with Land Rover wheel bearings to minimize spares.

Can any one advise if this is possible or what would be needed to convert to.

please advise supplier and part number if you have gone down this road.

Cheers
Piddler

[SneakyPete]

Hi Adam,

Any particular reason you went with the axle under the springs rather than on top? Is this related to fitting shocks? Anybody like to comment on the pros and cons of each way? A local trailer manufacturer here reckons its dangerous to sit the axle outside of the springs as it can come away from the trailer if you bust the u-bolts, whereas the other way round its still held captive in the springs.

Looks like your bed will be an awfully long way up in the air! The jockey wheel looks like its on tippy toes. Will the drawbar tow level or will it have to dip down to meet the towbar?

Looks like a top project.

Keep up the pics!!

Cheers

Peter

[walker]

In order:

1. I went with spring over to increase the body clearance of the trailer. Most offroad trailers I looked at which had leaf springs all did the same thing. I don't think it helps much with the fitment of shocks.
I have used high tensile U bolts and bolts so hoefully they will not break.
If the u bolt broke then even if the springs were under the axle I still think the result would not be very good

2. The bed will be at about 1400 off the ground, as I said in another thread, I wish it were higher.. I am using a roof top tent and if it were on the roof then it would be at about 2000 off the ground so it is lower than normal.

3. The jockey wheel is at it's limit when the trailer is level, I will have satbaliser legs at front and rear when we are set up and will not rely on the jockey wheel. Since there will only be 50-60kg on the draw bar (hopefully) it wont be a problem to lift the drawbar by hand.

4. The drawbar will tow in an almost level position when connected to the towbar, I designed the height of the drawbar specifically to be like this. Somehow I missed posting a pic of the trailer connected to the Disco...here it is.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/8.jpg

[Pedro_The_Swift]

did you think about a long draw-bar,,
or was it a lucky coincidence;)

spare tyre mount? (or not)

[walker]

Yes, I thought about a long drawbar.......then I made it even longer. :D ;)

No, really, I had a look around and some of the top price campers have drawbars around 2.4m!!!:o . I thought this was a bit too long so I comprimised and went for 2m. Once the box and gas bottles and stone protector all go on the drawbar it will not look so long.

I have made the spare wheel to go under the front section of the trailer while the water tank is under the rear section. If I end up having room on the drawbar I might put the spare wheel here as I don't like having it under the trailer. I did not want to have to have a swing away carrier at the rear.

[Buggerluggs]

Peter,

I suggest your local trailer manufacturer take a good look at what professionals do with axles under leaf springs. There are many variants of vehicle around the world used in all sorts of places where the spring is mounted on top of the axle. A classic, dare I say it, being the Toy Hilux 4x4.

[matbor]

I think the most important questions that need answered are :

1. What colour is the trailer getting painted ? Colour matched to the disco I hope :)

2. Where is the AULRO sticker going to be placed ? :D

Matt.

[SneakyPete]

Thanks Adam & Buggerlugs,

Yeah, I thought it sounded like b.s. myself about the axle under the springs but thought I'd pose the question. Looks like the trailer height is spot on! I used to have a Hilux and noticed the same. Main difference being the springs were virtually flat unladen at rest!!

Having the trailer and bedding up will help keep things dry in water crossings too.

Cheers

Sneakypete

[walker]

Man, I sure hope I don't get any river crossings that deep.:eek:
We were talking about that the other day an I reckon I just about have the body so dust tight it should float.:p

And Matt

1. Yep, color coded to the Disco.....sort of. I am painting it myself and am not good enough to do 2 pak painting so the local auto paint store is going to mix up some enamel paint which will match fairly closely and then add a bit of metalic to it.

[McDisco]

Adam

Thats looking excellent! Taking orders yet? How much would a "Walker Walkabout" offroad trailer cost? :D

Angus

[walker]

I reckon I could whip one up for around $20,000. :o ;)

But seriously, I can see now why some of the good offroad trailers cost so much, there is a lot of work in them.

There are only 8 weekends left till Christmas and I am now starting to get very worried. I will be away for 3 of the weekends which only leaves 5 and there is a lot of wrk still to be done. I was going to spray it myself but if I run out of time I might just do the base coat and then get it done.

[discowhite]

whats the specs for the axle?? part number, length ect..

cheers phil

[3landerblue]

What a great thread and a great looking trailer, can't wait to see it finished. You mentioned (jokingly) that you would charge about $20k if you sold them.

But out of interest how much do you reckon that you would have spent on it by the time that it is finished?

I only ask because I am after a trailer tent and especially the Adventure ones, their top of the range is now $39,000 and their entry model without a tent $17,000.

They do seem expensive but I guess you get what you pay for, quality?
I reckon at this rate it would be cheaper to buy a secondhand Oka 4wd and fit it out?

[walker]

Ok, Seriously.

The trailer will end up costing me about $5k to build. Then you have another $3k for the rooftop tent which I already have.

I reckon there is about $7k worth of labour in the build...so around $15k including labour if you were to have it built. But that will include a lot of stuff you only get in the top campers like a stainless steel kitchen with flush mounted staibless 2 burner stove and stainless sink, pull out awning, 2 100A/h AGM batteries, 3 lights, 240v power when available, electric brakes, D2 hubs etc etc.

[walker]

whats the specs for the axle?? part number, length ect..

cheers phil

I have no idea. Dad's mate runs Alko in Victoria so he got it all made up for me. All I know is that it is a 50mm axle, D2 hubs, Ford bearings, and has exactly the same track as the Disco. I think the axle measures 1685mm from memory. I don't think there is any standard length for the axles, you just tell them what you want and they make it.

[walker]

Update on trailer.

I haven't really gor much to show you. I have been mucking about on a few fiddly bits which don't look much but take a bit of time. I have made up some front stabalizer legs and a lift up bracker for the rear awning. All of these have been zinc plated for Bling!

I have also painted underneith and inside the trailer. I painted both with etch primer first. Underneith is painted with an underbody deadener which is a sticky tar based paint which you blow in with an air gun. It would have been easier to use the same stuff inside but I was worried the tar might get sticky on hot days so inside I have used a paint made for the lining tray of utes.

I have also mounted the shocks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/93.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/94.jpg

[mr_sav]

Hi Piddler

I am having my trailer reworked. I am not as gifted as the likes of Walker and Spudboy, so I have outsourced it.

Regarding your query axle above or below springs; I have spoken to a few Trailer Manufacturers and engineers, whom I have had a working relationship with. They are categorical there is no benefit or disadvantage either way. In fact, I had my axle inside the springs, and they are now outside - and I am having my work done privately, but by a Contractor for Treg Trailers, whom many would be aware of if not only for the Treg Hitches.

Worse case scenario, if you did lose your axle, just walk back a few hundred metres and pick it up. My axle and hubs are rated to 3.5t and would probally survive a head on with most other vehicles, if I lost it behind me. The trailer obviously wont go far, still attached to the vehicle. A land version of a storm anchor.

[mr_sav]

Yes, I thought about a long drawbar.......then I made it even longer. :D ;)

No, really, I had a look around and some of the top price campers have drawbars around 2.4m!!!:o . I thought this was a bit too long so I comprimised and went for 2m. Once the box and gas bottles and stone protector all go on the drawbar it will not look so long.

I have made the spare wheel to go under the front section of the trailer while the water tank is under the rear section. If I end up having room on the drawbar I might put the spare wheel here as I don't like having it under the trailer. I did not want to have to have a swing away carrier at the rear.

Regarding the Drawbar, A good blueprint for a drawbar is distance between axle and hitch = distance of wheel base of towing vehicle (Centre Front Axle to Centre Rear Axle of Towing Vehicle).

Regards.

[mr_sav]

The Trailer is looking fantastic. Is the axle width equal of that to the D2.

If I had made my trailer from the Ground up - I would have matched it to my 110. However, given I am working with my old (but trusty) trailer I was not going to cut into the frame to reduce width between the tyres.

Anyway I should have had her back by now, but the guy working on it is dragging the chain a bit. Out of hours, on the side.

I will post pictures when I get her back.

Basically she has had new Axle and Hubs with Electric Brakes, extended Draw Bar and some more bracing. I am getting flanges welded in So A frame for the Rooftop tent can be mounted. I am still trying to keep my fold up/slide of lid, as this makes a good table top when camping for lengthy periods.

Anyway, You have done a great job, I can only imagine the pride and satisfaction you would have from building your own trailer. I am envious.

Regards.

[disco_ute]

I have also painted underneith and inside the trailer. I painted both with etch primer first. Underneith is painted with an underbody deadener which is a sticky tar based paint which you blow in with an air gun. It would have been easier to use the same stuff inside but I was worried the tar might get sticky on hot days so inside I have used a paint made for the lining tray of utes.

The Ute liner stuff is fantastic but for future reference if u use the tar based deadener the trick is to spray over it once it had set with an enamel spray paint.... this will give it a solid feel and wont go soft.... my 2 cents..

looking good walker!!


more pics....

[walker]

Update:

Started the electrics today.

It will have :
2- 100a/h AGM batteries
1- Hardwired light in cargo area of trailer
4- Merit sockets (2 for lights, 1 for fridge , 1 for 12v shower)
1- 12v water pump
1- 3 stage 15A smart Charger
1- 240v input which will be hard wired to the battery charger and 1 double GPO

Have I forgotten anything?

The charger looks very good (on paper as I don't have it yet) and can act as a power supply when hooked up to 240v.

The fridge will be mounted in the Disco so the fridge plug is only for if we are stopping somewhere for a few days and we will keep the fridge near the kitchen for easy access.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/58.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/59.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/60.jpg

I have also put down marine carpet on the floor which should protect the floor and stop stuff sliding around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/61.jpg

[dmdigital]

Adam,
I'm surprised you centred the batteries like that. What was the reasoning? Did you just want them over the axle?

[disco_ute]

Where is the 52" LCD screen going to go?

[walker]

Adam,
I'm surprised you centred the batteries like that. What was the reasoning? Did you just want them over the axle?

Yes, I just wanted them over the axle. Together they weigh 65kg so I really wanted the centralised. There will be a cover which goes over all the batteries and water filter to protect them.

Why surprised? I can't see what difference it makes.

[walker]

Where is the 52" LCD screen going to go?

Why are you going to give me one?

I am planning to hook up a car mp3 player and speaker but that will have to wait till later.

[dmdigital]

Yes, I just wanted them over the axle. Together they weigh 65kg so I really wanted the centralised. There will be a cover which goes over all the batteries and water filter to protect them.

Why surprised? I can't see what difference it makes.

I thought that you might have made the easier to access. Maybe a panel on the side or even underneath. Given the weight if you need to move one it would be a back breaker. I know batteries should be a set and forget thing, especially AGM's, just didn't seem ergonomic and must have taken some pushing to get them in there.

[walker]

No, they go in very easily.

I have tried to keep panels and hatches to minimum because whenever you cut a hole you have a chance of getting dust in.

[dmdigital]

Good point, didn't think of that. Did you sort out the hatch closures you were looking for?

[walker]

Yes, I ended up getting some like this :

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/53.jpg

I just hope the ones I got are OK. They are stainless steel and look ok but not sure about it all.

I found this guy not far from me that specialises in truck fittings. When I went round to get them it was just a little Chinese fella in a tiny factory with hundreds of boxes of fittings.....and the locks were only $15 each for SS:eek:

[dmdigital]

As long as the exert sufficient pressure I don't see why they should be OK. At least at that price they haven't cost you too much if they aren't 100% suitable.

[walker]

They should be fine....someone on this forum recommended them so thankyou whoever you are.:clap2:

[dmdigital]

As long as the exert sufficient pressure I don't see why they should be OK. At least at that price they haven't cost you too much if they aren't 100% suitable.


I just re-read my last post. :oops2: What the hell was I typing? Meant to say don't see why they shouldn't be OK

[tam242]

Walker

We have a similar thing on the work truck, they work quite well.

[EchiDna]

so what is the seal between the hatch itself and the trailer body going to be walker? some pinchweld rubber profile? or something like a strip of neoprene? or?

[modman]

walker, my old company used to have those latches on our tray toolboxes, we even developed a central remote locking kit to suit the latches. very easy to make up but still have a key overide. very handy not having to stick the key in and out every time you went for a fitting and the apprentices can't snap or lose the keys. :D
david

[walker]

Here is another update. It is getting there slowly!!

I still need it finished before Christmas and I am away for 2 weeks with work from this Sunday.:mad:

Anyway I have got the hatches on. It took a lot of messing around to get it all right. I think I have done just about everything on the trailer at least 3 times! You do one thing, get halway through and realise that something is not going to work and then start again. Fun isn't it!:twisted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/6.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/7.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/8.jpg

As you can see it should be strong enough ;) . I reinforced around the hatch doors with 25x12mm tube so you dont get any flexing. I was going to use a rubber seal but the hatches fit so well that it would just make it all stick out tto far so I am going to use that foam. But not the standard foam, it is called EDPM (I think) and it is a rubber based foam as si a lot more resiliant.

I have also finished most of the kitchen. There are a lot of finishing touches which need doing, like edge strips ect but they are going to have to wait till I get back next year. I will just paint it like it is and put on the SS benchtop.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/9.jpg

I mounted the filler for the water tank and thought I did a pretty great job (even if I do say so myself). I went to test it all out.....only to find I had managed to mount the filler lower than the top of the tank..DOH!

The problem was there were no other places to put it and I did not want to have to bring it up through the body of the trailer cause that means more holes and more potential dust. So I made up this extension box for it. (the triangle section below the filler is where I put it the first time)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/10.jpg

Finally I have made the jerry can holders. One on each side at the rear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/11.jpg
[/URL][URL="http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/trailer_009.jpg"] (http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/trailer_010.jpg)

[Bytemrk]

Looking good Adam!

Are coming down to Dargo over Australia day weekend?

I wouldn't mind taking a close look..... looks like you are doing a great job.

Mark

[walker]

Not sure about Dargo. I was thinking of going into the Caledonia River...but Dargo might be good, I have never been to the group camp.

[BigJon]

Wow, that is coming together really well. If only I had the patience to undertake that sort of project.

[Buggerluggs]

One must realise that Adam only works two days a week! The other five are spent on his trailer! Lucky bastard...but then I could retire and build my dream too!

:D:D

[Blknight.aus]

Mate thats not looking bad for a prototype..

Tell ya what, when youve got it made and sussed when your ready to get rid of it so you can make it properly you can give it to me. I'll even let you buy me a sixer of Jim beam for having to deal with all the reworkings on it.

IAS.

Top looking job looks like its suitabley over engineered. Just the way anything you will willingly tow behind a rover should be

[walker]

One must realise that Adam only works two days a week! The other five are spent on his trailer! Lucky bastard...but then I could retire and build my dream too!

:D:D

What are you trying to say there Ian....that I don't work hard. ;)

Anyway, I happened to read this years finacial report for Frigrite the other day.........I would say you could retire now. :p

[Buggerluggs]

Adam,

I could retire, but everyone keeps telling me I'm not ready .... whatever that means!

I mean really! I can think of one hell of a lot of things to do like build a collasable solid sided caravan (similar to the Kimberly Karavan) or I could do a few more mods to the Disco and prove once and for all it is better than the Rangie.............:twisted::twisted: etc. etc.

[walker]

Stick with the first project.....at least that is possible!!!:p :p

[mcrover]

Not bad at all, I like the design and im planning on doing the same with our roof top tent.

The eleky brakes are a great addition, I had them on a van I was towing years ago and they saved me when a master cylinder seal split on my F350 comming down a hill heading for a T intersection with a factory on the other side.

What size RHS are you using and wall thickness and what are you cladding the sides with?

Good job

[walker]

The main frame is 75x50x4mm. The rest is 50x50x3 and 25x25x2mm.

The cladding is 1.6mm steel sheets.

PS. Nothing wrong with a jeep. (oops, did I just say that out loud.:o )

[walker]

I finally managed to take some more pics.

I am up to the painting stage. One thing I have learnt....I CAN"T SPRAY PAINT.

I am really dissapointed in the painting. I have never spray painted before but in the normal Aussie way I though "how hard can it be?" :p


If you had a nice ventilated spray booth it would probably make things a lot easier. But I had a cheap $30 pergola with plastic wrapped around it and a plastic floor.:D That combined with my very poor skills gave a very average job.

But at least I was consistent. I managed to get consistent orange peel over the entire trailer.;) So my nice metalic enamel now has the hammertone look!

I will take it up to Brissy at Christmas and by the time I get back I'm sure I will be able to make 1 of 2 decisions. Either I will get used to it and not really care anymore and leave it as it is.........or it will bug me for the entire trip and I will take it to a spray painter to get it painted properly in 2 pak.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/82.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/83.jpg

[spudboy]

How much thinner did you add to the paint when you sprayed it? Some enamels are 1:1 so you're only spraying 50% paint.

Anyway, once it gets covered in dust and bugs and crap you'll hardly notice.

[walker]

Mmmmmm. Maybe that was the problem. I only added 15-20% thinners. When I bought the paint the paintshop said I did not need to thin the enamel at all but I am starting to wonder if they knew what they were on about.

I pulled it out into the light today...........it's pretty bad.:( I think it is the coverage of the metallic metals which makes it so bad, I have not got it even at all which gives it stripes and some parts dont look covered. But it is only a trailer and like you said it will be covered in stuff pretty quickly. I will leave it for a few days then give it a wash down and maybe a polish.:D It is just annoying to work hard and getting to a point where I am happy then let myself down with the painting.

[HangOver]

hmmmm I dunno which I like more your trailer or your shed.:D

[walker]

It's finally finished.......................................... .............almost! :D

Just a couple of things to do, like tidy up dad's workshop, some touchup paint and recheck the water filler pipe which was leaking. I also need to make a stone guard but this will have to wait till after this trip.


Now for the bad news. The idea of this project was to make a lightweight offroad trailer, something which would be about 750kg fully loaded.......the reality............................home builders overengineer!:o :(

Took it to the weighbridge today. Fully loaded with 2 jerry's, 60litres of water and everything else except for luggage.........860kg. :( So fully loaded it will be closer to 1000kg! I knew I should have used aluminium sheet!:p

So, nothing I can do now, I will just have to replace the springs when I get back with 1000kg jobbies. I am hoping that spring companies build in a bit of a safety margin so my 750kg spring will be of for this trip.:eek: .

So now for the pics:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/42.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/43.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/44.jpg

And the kitchen:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/45.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/46.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/47.jpg

[Bytemrk]

Looks great Adam...

[dmdigital]

Fantastic!

[Blknight.aus]

good drills.


yeah you've got some head room on the 750kg springs' And it should be enough to deal with what your after but you wont see the full life of the spring.

just keep an eye on your wheel to guard clearances, you'll know when theyve given up, they'll drop an inch or 2 permanantly. (measure it before you load it, measure it after you load it and keep those numbers for comparisons)

best of luck on the trip

[Tank]

Mmmmmm. Maybe that was the problem. I only added 15-20% thinners. When I bought the paint the paintshop said I did not need to thin the enamel at all but I am starting to wonder if they knew what they were on about.

I pulled it out into the light today...........it's pretty bad.:( I think it is the coverage of the metallic metals which makes it so bad, I have not got it even at all which gives it stripes and some parts dont look covered. But it is only a trailer and like you said it will be covered in stuff pretty quickly. I will leave it for a few days then give it a wash down and maybe a polish.:D It is just annoying to work hard and getting to a point where I am happy then let myself down with the painting.

Adam, spraying Metallic paint is not easy to apply corectly, a TIP, start in a corner and spray diagonally to the opposite corner and repeat for each corner, in other words criss-cross your lines of paint and keep the paint agitated in the spray gun or the metallic bits will sink to the bottom, also add some clear to the final coat and then add a coat or 2 of Clear (by itself) to finish, it looks like you may have had too much air pressure as well, anyway mate Practise makes Perfect, Regards Frank.

[Franz]

It's finally finished.......................................... .............almost! :D

Just a couple of things to do, like tidy up dad's workshop, some touchup paint and recheck the water filler pipe which was leaking. I also need to make a stone guard but this will have to wait till after this trip.


Now for the bad news. The idea of this project was to make a lightweight offroad trailer, something which would be about 750kg fully loaded.......the reality............................home builders overengineer!:o :(

Took it to the weighbridge today. Fully loaded with 2 jerry's, 60litres of water and everything else except for luggage.........860kg. :( So fully loaded it will be closer to 1000kg! I knew I should have used aluminium sheet!:p

So, nothing I can do now, I will just have to replace the springs when I get back with 1000kg jobbies. I am hoping that spring companies build in a bit of a safety margin so my 750kg spring will be of for this trip.:eek: .

So now for the pics:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/42.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/43.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/44.jpg

And the kitchen:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/45.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/46.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/12/47.jpg
That looks superb Adam - well done. Even the paint job looks like it came out OK (or is that good photography! :-)

[pilbaradisco]

Nice job Adam. Make sure you get a rear window saver before you go on gravel roads.

Glen.

[McDisco]

Adam

My hat is off to you mate. I wouldnt even attempt doing something as complicated as building a trailer. So to do it as well as you have is quite an achievement!

Well done mate!

Angus

[Buggerluggs]

Hi Adam,

Happy New Year to you and family!

Great job on the trailer, and who cares about the paint! a few scratches and some dirt and it'll look like its meant to.

On the weight, your springs are rated for 750kg as a pair. That means the actual load on the spring (spung mass). If you weigh your wheels and tyres plus the axle and the springs you will be under the 750kg. Remember its the sprung weight the that springs carry, not the rest!

[walker]

Mmmmm. Maybe you are right Ian. (what am I saying...you are always right!:p )

Do you really think the axle, springs and wheels would weigh 250kg?

I will get onto Alko and find out what their axle and springs weigh.

I am still in Brisbane but the trailer really towed well although you can really feel the weight, especially when towing on gas.

I would really love to sell this trailer and start the project again.:o

I would keep the chassis the same but build the body and kitchen from aluminium tube and sheets. I think this would make all the difference.

But if I did this I think a divorce would be on the cards.....plus I have another Rangie sitting at home waiting to be utenised!:D

[easo]

Beauty, I like where you finally put the spare.

[Aussie]

Not sure if this has been asked and I hope you dont mind if I enquire as to how much $$$ you think it has cost you all up?

BTW bloody top job I wouldnt mind towing it behind my buggy, looks a real ripper, I can just see the Mrs washing up at the sink while I am admiring the trailer from my chair :)

[disco_ute]

Not sure if this has been asked and I hope you dont mind if I enquire as to how much $$$ you think it has cost you all up?

BTW bloody top job I wouldnt mind towing it behind my buggy, looks a real ripper, I can just see the Mrs washing up at the sink while I am admiring the trailer from my chair :)

He said earlier about 5k..... but knowing Adam its probably blown right out....

whens the big trip adam??

[mcrover]

I just emailed the pics to my wife and I have the OK to start my own...

All I need now is a shed like Adams and I can begin...

[disco_ute]

I just emailed the pics to my wife and I have the OK to start my own...

All I need now is a shed like Adams and I can begin...

I would have asked for the shed 1st!!

[mcrover]

No first comes the project and then comes the tools.

They have to want the same thing that you do.

[walker]

whens the big trip adam??


I took the trailer to morton Island just after Christmas and all went well. My only dissapointment is that it "feels heavy". It weighs about 850kg with water tank full but I think it is the length of the drawbar that is causing my problems. I think the wind is coming around the back of the Disco and then hitting the front of the trailer. Once I put on the stone guard it might help a bit but other than that I guess I will just have to put up with it.

The next big test (other than weekends away) will be the Hay River Tk in July.

I am not sure of the exact cost but it was around the $4.5k mark not including the rooftop tent.

[landrovermick]

Mate i gotta say it looks great - i showed the mrs and she said " how come we dont go camping like that ! " he he he

on the draw bar is it extra long or is it the pics ?