Idler bearing question

[Wortho]

First would like to say this forum is fantastic my A/C pulley bearing went same time as a post from Incisor about the same problem, and i was qouted all sorts of thing from need a new compressor to $200 to replace the bearing.Every A/C place told me that the pulley was on a speacilly tapperd shaft and needed to be pressed off, and that the bearing was sealed inside the pulley and needed speacial tools to get it out,when i read on here that the pulley was on a splined shaft i thought that doesn't sound to hard, well that would have to be one of the easist jobs i have done on this car and only $34 for a new bearing.
However now that this bearing is quite i can hear that the idler pulley bearing for the A/C belt is noisey, and i was wondering if you can just replace the bearing for this as well or if i need a new idler unit. Any help much appreciated.
Sorry for such a long winded Question but had to have something of a decent lenght for my 100th, post woohoo made it to triple figures only 9900 to go!.

[incisor]

yep easy to do as well... i carry a spare bearing in my glove box now...

you just need a set of snapring pliers or 2 small screw drivers to get the snapring out and they just push out....

easy peasy.....

[Wortho]

Cool thanks for that, any idea how much for the bearing?

[incisor]

mine cost $6

:P

[langy]

And the generic number for the bearing is 6203

[amshaw]

It would be good if someone in the forum could make up a bearing kit :D ....so us "not so Shaw's" dont get confussed and just dont get around to doing it.

Wasnt there someone here who's father own's a bearing type shop?:angel:

The reason I say this is it would be so much easier to get a full bearing kit with labels on boxs etc rather than going to my local bearing shop and get stuffed around, confused and ****ed off because Im really not sure what I need etc:confused:

Just an idea.......any bite's??

Oh....And of course happy to pay for the extra service...:)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

And the generic number for the bearing is 6203

double shielded?
plastic or steel?

[Bush65]

The bearings are sealed both sides.

I bought some FAG bearings from Skefco bearings at $4 each, 2 years ago.

The different bearing manufactures use their own designation for the seals so ask for a 6203 bearing with seals (not shields) both sides.

The number will look like 6203-2RS.

6 designates deep groove ball bearings
2 designates the diameter series
0 designates the width series
3 designates the nominal bore size as 17mm

I have found the easiest way to remove the snap rings is to file (chainsaw files work well, or a small angle grinder may work) a small radial groove in the hub, down to the snap ring groove, near one end of the snap ring.

Then you can get a small screw driver behind the ring to prise it out.

[Cobra]

The Idler bearing, the air con tensioner bearing and the main serpentine belt tensioner bearing are all the same size.

They are all replaced the same way by removing a circlip, tapping out the old one and tapping in a new one.

I always carry a couple of them because they are only about $9 each.

Any bearing place will have them, they are quite unremarkable.

[Wortho]

Well that was so simple it was great got the bearings for $2.95 each so i just replaced all of them regardless(may as well) and got some spares.
Thanks for your help.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

hey wortho.....you got yourself a defender yet...?

[QSDT]

Also just a point of interest, ask for one with a "C3" speed rating it will last much longer with the rpm & heat, if it's a bearing going on an engine I always use C3 I work for SKF thats why I know.

[p38arover]

Pity we can do this on the serpentine belt pulleys on P38As. The pulley is moulded around the bearing and it seems the bearing can't be replaced. LR don't sell the pulley alone, one has to buy a complete tensioner assembly. :mad:

Ron

[Wortho]

DEFENDERZOOKhey wortho.....you got yourself a defender yet...?
Not yet, but i just saw a black 90 for $27k and couldn't stop drooling only 65,000 k's.Only problem is i couldn't bear to sell my Disco and i can't afford to get one, yet.
Tony i also just came back from doing that rock step you busted Lurch on 30psi and she went straight up also the other climbs there on 30psi no hesitation no probs( i had 40psi when we were there). so still pretty stoked with the Disco. But god i'd love a Defender!!!!!!.

[incisor]

C3 is the clearance rating is it not?

wouldnt have thought 100c would have a bearing (pardon the pun) on a bearing to any great extent...


at what temp does a C3 get to the normal toleranced bearing size?

[Bush65]

C3 is the clearance rating is it not?

wouldnt have thought 100c would have a bearing (pardon the pun) on a bearing to any great extent...


at what temp does a C3 get to the normal toleranced bearing size?
Yes C3 is for non standard internal clearance, not a speed rating.

In most cases either the outer ring or the inner ring is a tight fit in the housing or on the shaft, depending upon which is rotating relative to the load direction. The other ring is then normally a location fit.

The fit on the tight ring reduces the internal clearance to an acceptable value.

However where there are heavy vibration loads loads, such as vibratory feeders or crushers, it is necessary to have a tight fit on both inner and outer rings. In this case the fit of the rings,will reduce the internal clearance too much, leading to overheating of the bearing and failure.

In these case, bearings are manufactured with greater than normal internal clearance, eg. C3, to allow for the reduction when both inner and outer rings are tight fits in the housing and shaft.

[Bush65]

...wouldnt have thought 100c would have a bearing (pardon the pun) on a bearing to any great extent...
100 deg C is reaching the limit for many greases used to lubricate bearings.

The upper limit for calcium based grease is usually 60 deg C. 80 deg C is usual for Sodium based grease. 110 deg C for Lithium based grease.

[Bush65]

Pity we can do this on the serpentine belt pulleys on P38As. The pulley is moulded around the bearing and it seems the bearing can't be replaced. LR don't sell the pulley alone, one has to buy a complete tensioner assembly. :mad:

Ron
I don't know what the idler pulleys on P38's are like.

If like the 300Tdi, they are the same size (and same bearings) as idler pulleys on Commodore V6 engines.

[worraps]

ok guys quick question here the main belt tentioner on the 300tdi has developed a squeal in so i am guess that teh bearing is buggered as u guys suggest it's very easy to change the bearing but would like if somebody could give me a quick guide on how to do this ?? does the while tensioner need to come off??? or just the wheel that houses the bearing
i know it's more then likly a lot easier then i am expecting just not something i don't want to screw up also the bearing numbers quoted are for teh 300 tdi correct??? thanks as always guys


Worraps

[zwitter]

Hi Worraps
In the middle of doing the timing belt and found several idlers requiring attention. The idler on the serpentine belt with the big spring comes off by undoing the bolt in the centre of the bearing. It is left hand thread I am pretty sure. Then the only issue is to get the spring circlip out. It is usually a quick twostep with a pair of flat blade screwdrivers. Then push the bearing out and push in a new 6203-2RS-C3. I need to do the aircon idler as well. I am hoping to fix the squeals in the belts.
James

[worraps]

zwitter cheers for that thought it safer just to double check :) night as well do teh aircon aswell while i am at it :) and thnx for confirming the bearig number

worraps


EDIT
ok purchased 3 bearings today from local bearing shop took the numbers ect down with me handed to the guys yup no probs he said came back with 3 i paid and left when i got home i noticed that the number is slightly different could anybody confirm that these are indeed teh right bearings brand is nsk parn number is 6203vvc3 thanks again guys
worraps

[worraps]

bump :) could anybody answer the edited part of above post??

[incisor]

they should be fine

[one_iota]

they should be fine

Seconded

[worraps]

thanks inc just wanted to double check b4 i pulled things apart :)
will be nice to have a squeal free truck again

[Rad97]

if someone has a list of the bearings I can get them through work with a bit of discount .

if you go to the bearing retailer ask for example 6203 LLU as this is a higher temperature seal e.g. viton not rubber.