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View Full Version : Tutorial - Replacing the bearing in a 300TDi airconditioning compressor pulley.



incisor
29th October 2006, 12:03 PM
Skill Level (1-10):
3 (basic workshop skills)

Time Taken:
40 minutes

Tools required:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/15.jpg
10mm, 13mm Sockets and ½” or 3/8” rachet to suit
Small Breaker Bar ½” drive
Bent External Circlip Pliers
Hammer
Vice (100mm / 4” jaws required)
Center Punch
Assorted Larger sockets to drift bearing from pulley.

Parts Used:
NACHI bearing No 30BGS10DST2 or 30BGOSS2DS

Pulley and bearing removal procedure:
Remove top of radiator cowl
Remove compressor cover plate
Turn ignition and air conditioning on (don’t start the motor!)
Start to undo 10mm bolt retaining pulley
Turn off ignition.
Undo drive belt idler pulley by undoing but not removing the 3 10mm bolts.
Remove the center retaining bolt on compressor, being careful to note and not lose any shim washers on the bolt.
Slide the end cover of the pulley toward the front the vehicle and carefully remove, once again taking careful note of any shim washers that may be present up the spline in the center of the end plate.
Using the bent circlip pliers carefully remove the circlip retaining the pulley and bearing.
Slide pulley forward and off the center shaft.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/16.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/17.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/18.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/19.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/20.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/21.jpg

Bearing replacement:
Find a socket that has a small end that will just fit into the center hole of the bearing. Sit the pulley on a flat support or vice jaws, making sure they are just wide enough apart for the bearing to be pushed out without hitting the jaws. Place the socket into the bearing and using a 2lb hammer proceed to carefully drift the bearing from the pulley. Do not use excessive force, use just what you need to get the job done. As the bearing is moving, make sure you drift it so it remains straight in the pulley.

Once removed you get to clean the pulley and make sure you remove any burrs that may make it hard to fit the new bearing.

Carefully line up and gently start pushing the new bearing up into the pulley using very light taps with the hammer. DO NOT hit the center of the bearing! Always only apply pressure to the outer shell of the bearing during this part of the job. You are just trying to line it up straight and push it in enough to hold it before the next stage of the job. Make sure you get it as straight and evenly centered as you can. Using the old bearing, place the pulley, bearing and old bearing in the vice and use the vice pressure to push the bearing into the pulley. All the while ensuring it is straight and even. Try to use continuous and even force and ensure you push the bearing fully into the pulley. When you are sure you have it, remove it from the vice and check to see the bearing is hard up against the shoulder of the pulley. You will notice some small dints on the pulley. These were there to retain the bearing. Using a center punch, lightly pop in these dints to spread them back over the edge of the bearing to retain it as before. One pop in each dint will do just fine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/22.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/23.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/24.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/25.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/26.jpg

Reassembling the pulley to the compressor etc is just the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

Make sure you get those shims back where they originally came from.

DO NOT over tension the drive belt or you will be doing this again in a few months time.

You have just saved your self a swag of money!

Gallery of larger pics etc is here
http://www.aulro.com/app/showgallery.php?cat=671

langy
4th November 2006, 12:22 AM
Well Done!

Wortho
25th January 2007, 10:06 PM
Update,
Nachi have updated the bearing, same bearing different number and colour.
Old 30BGS10DST2 and it's green.
New 30BGOSS2DS and it's a browney orangey colour.

Old number was not even on their computor anymore. Hope this helps.

tcgooge
3rd March 2009, 11:54 AM
Thanks incisor
Have just replaced the bearing in mine!
When I contacted Allied Bearings at Nerang QLD, they finally tracked down the right bearing with the corrected code as 30BG05S2G-2DS, that's with the brown coloured seal.
Thanks again, works treat!:D

pdrayton
22nd August 2009, 12:07 AM
I pulled the pulley off my 93 toyota and it has the same bearing, so I searched the internet and this tutorial popped up.

Up til then I was confused about where to push the bearing out or if can be done.

Problem solved! Awesome! thanks for that.

Paul

EDIT: The correct identity of the bearing is as tcgooge said , ie 30BG05S2G-2DS. Those suckers can be hard to read....

Cap
28th August 2009, 08:24 PM
Thanks Inc, my only prob is that the pics are too small :(

incisor
28th August 2009, 08:50 PM
even the bigger ones i put in this link

Message - AULRO Photo Gallery (http://www.aulro.com/app/showgallery.php?cat=671)

henrymiles
30th August 2010, 10:58 PM
I´m Henry Miles, from Argentina. I own a Discovery 1996. Excellent information posted. I´ll put hands on to replace that bearing.
Best regards

harry
10th December 2010, 05:34 PM
oh bugger, i should have known someone would have done this already.

thanks dave.

Utemad
17th December 2010, 03:20 PM
Just doing my MY95 V8 compressor and it is the same bearing. Seems to be a very common bearing.

My local bearing shop said that part number didn't exist any more and sold me a Narchi with an updated part number of 30BG05S2G2DS and cost $31.68.

Tins
23rd March 2017, 08:43 PM
Just doing this now. On mine there are no shims. However, there is this:

120931

which is some sort of spacer.

I gather the step where you turn on the ignition is to lock the clutch so that you can undo the bolt against belt tension; No good on mine as it keeps shredding belts, which is why I'm doing the bearing.

So, I used one of these;

120932

This is the new bearing number, as a couple of others have posted;

120933

Sorry, not as clear as I'd hoped.

And this is the new bearing, with the old;

120934

All pretty straightforward, except mine was rusted together a bit. Care needs to be taken taking the front plate thingy off. A puller would be best, buy I don't have one that fits, so careful levering works, but it's best to lever on the plate, not the pulley, as there is soft material on the pulley you can damage.

Thanks Dave for this. Putting mine back tomorrow, just picked up my belt from Mario.

Tins
23rd March 2017, 10:30 PM
Hmm. Might take me a while to get used to posting pics...

chiptech
11th February 2018, 12:22 PM
Thanks. Handy tutorial and saved me lots of money.

bnc
13th July 2021, 11:34 AM
Hello. I had to do this this week, but could not find the bearing under the numbers in the thread. After some calling around, I found (and used) 30BG5222-2DSE.

The website bearingsdirect.com has this information:
30BG05S2G-2DS bearing is Precision A/C Compressor Double Row Ball Bearing Both Sides Rubber Sealed and pre-lubricated with Grease. Sizes: ID 30mm x OD 52mm x W 22mm
Match#: 30BG05S2G-2DS ,30BGS10DST2, DAC30520022, DAC3052-32RD, 30BGS10G, 30BG5222UUS, 30BGS10G2DST2, 30BD5222DUUM6, 30BG05S2G2DS, 30BG52222DSE, 30BGS10G2DST2F, DAC305232RR9XS, 9491004570, 9491004760, 51802600

I have attached a couple of photos to show:
- Where the washers are found as you disassemble.
- The parts laid out in order of removal.

86mud
26th July 2021, 08:36 AM
Thank you for listing the part numbers.. That is very useful