OT question for Air Con Fridgies

[p38arover]

My house has an old Carrier 50DL wall mounted air con system.

I want to know how it is mounted to the exterior wall. It looks like there is a support bracket at the bottom but I can't see how it is held at the top.

The reason why I want to know is that I want to tilt it slightly to the left. The drain holes for the condensate trays are on the left but the condensate accumulates on the RHS causing the trays to rust out.

A great bit of design - not. If Carrier had angled the trays down slightly, then this problem would have been alleviated.

Ron

[4bee]

I installed & serviced these for years.:D:D:D:D

Righto. To get to the top (more centre) support you need to remove the fascia which is held by 4 springs inside the ducts.

Just above the bottom duct (unseen) there is a bar in the cavity (oddly enough, called a Cavity Bar) holding the A/C to the wall. This in turn is held to some nuts inside the casing by 2 x 1/4" w threaded rods.

Best bet may be to pack under the opposite drain side to give it a slight fall, but if it has not gone too far then a cleanup & a coat of Rusteeter followed by a coat of brushable bituminous paint should do it. From memory the outside pan is not all that difficult to remove (a couple of 3/16" pop rivets if my memory serves me correctly) & treat or have a new galv. one made & treat it before replacing. I have seen one where stainless steel was used. (my preference) Yes, it was a weak point. Part of the problem I recall was the plastic drain fitting sitting proud & thereby holding back the condensate. Later ones had a 3/4" welded spigot in place which kept it flat.

You may also want to check that the Installer has mounted the bottom 'Hook Plate' level. It may also be tilted to the right making it worse. You can pack inside the U channel on this plate if required.

Hope this helps.

4bee. Airconditioning Genius Extraordinaire.:D

[p38arover]

Wonderful stuff. Thanks for the response. :)

I took the outer cover off and could see the threads of two bolts and surmised it might have been clamped from the inside.

Yes, mine is the older type with the proud plastic drain which does mean there is always a layer of water . I've had a new lower trough made up (in galv steel) - it'll last long enough. It was easy to remove and fit.

I'm not sure how easy it will be to access/remove the upper trough. I have drilled out the LH pop rivet (as you say, 3/16") in an attempt to lower the LH end of the tray. I poured in some phosphoric acid then spooned bitumenous paint in to the RHS to seal the rust holes.

Gotta go, the IT man is here to fix the work computer.

Ron

[4bee]

Aahhh, I thought we were talking about the lower pan.;)

Don't bother with the top one then as it's built in with the coil assy sat on it. Patch as you have done & I'm afraid it's the best you can expect. A coating of 'non ponging' Fish oil should get into any hard to get places & let dry well.
Imho, it was most unusual to see the top one let go, Ron, as most were galv. & painted, but who knows?:(

If you can brush the Bit. paint all over that& up the sides a bit, it should last you ok.

Unit must be 20+ years, even 30 years olde by now, but they were good.

As a matter of interest, the 50DL002 was the first in a line of of "quiet" 2 1/4hp vertical units (large residential units for its day)to meet the increasing Noise Pollution Regs. then fast approaching & Carrier got in first.

Talk about a blast from the past! I have been retired for apx. 7 years & these were well before I did.:D
Thanks for the opportunity to restir the brain cells into gear again.:D:D:D:D:D:D