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View Full Version : Fitting 2nd battery in Discovery rear cargo bin


walker
20th November 2006, 09:55 PM
Drivesafe asked me to put this in here, apparently there are a few people who want to do it.

I did have a full write up about this on another forum but it seems to have disappeared so i will try to remember what i did...it was a while ago.


1. The front cover of the bin pops out if you hit it hard from the inside. I then made 2 cuts in the bottom to fit a strap.

I have since upgraded this and bolted in 2 posts through the metal floor. The strap through the bottom of the bin would probably be enough but I wanted to make sure it did not move.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/66.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/67.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/68.jpg


2. Next I mounted the battery controller and fuse box. The battery controller could be mounted under the bonnet but I thought it would be better protected here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/69.jpg

3. I ran 10mm cable from the front battery to the rear battery controller. I think 8mm should be ok but again I was just being safe. I ran the earth from the rear battery to the chassis but it would be better to run it all the way back to the front battery. It is all in slpit conduit is cable tied to the chasis rail. There is a hole already drilled through the floor in the area between the rear bin and the rear door. It can be accessed by removing the vent panel.

This pic is taken from underneith the car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/70.jpg

4. The hole on the right is coming from the area I mentioned where you remove the vent to access the hole through the floor.
The hole on the left is where the cable run for the fridge (which is mounted where the rear seat usually is). It also powers the GPS, laptop and inverter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/11/71.jpg

5. Job done. If I did it again (and I will change it one day) I would mount the fusebox and battery controller in the area to the left of the battery so that removing the battery is easier.

I have also added and Arrid voltage booster because my alternator does not seem to run properly and it was an easy way to boost the voltage and now it charges at a constant 14v.

NB. there are not many batteries that will physically fit in the bin. The Exide orbital was the only one I could find that fits and has a decent a/h rating.
feral
21st November 2006, 09:29 AM
Good job too...

If you are really keen you could cut the back wall of the bin liner. There is most likely another 50mm sitting behind there.

I am very tempted to do the same :)

Lyndon.
drivesafe
7th February 2007, 11:55 PM
Hi Feral, fitting batteries inside the cabs of D2 is, in my opinion, a much better location than the firewall mounting location.

With a stable temperature in the cab, the battery will charge correctly and should last longer.

The only thing I would suggest is to always run both positive and negative cables between the front battery and the battery in the cargo bay.

Cheers.
dobbo
8th February 2007, 05:07 AM
I thought batteries have to be vented to the atmosphere, is this the case with all batteries or just some?
If it does need to be vented what is the best way of doing this and avoiding water ingress into the cab? Perhaps rubber tubing connected to the snorkel up front?
Redback
8th February 2007, 07:32 AM
I thought batteries have to be vented to the atmosphere, is this the case with all batteries or just some?
If it does need to be vented what is the best way of doing this and avoiding water ingress into the cab? Perhaps rubber tubing connected to the snorkel up front?

Sealed AGM or maintainence free batteries don't need venting only lead acid batteries need venting.

They are designed to be put in an enclosed area, boat, car, truck and so on.

I may do this one day, i'll see how this new battery in the Disco goes first.

One word of warning (i learnt this the hard way:mad: ) DON'T use a lead acid battery if installing under the bonnet of a D2, it WILL boil and leak acid all over the inner guard, sound proofing foam on the fire wall, roll over switch, ABS modulater (SLABS) ELECTICAL WIRING and chassis:mad:

Only use a sealed maintainence free battery:D

Baz.
drivesafe
8th February 2007, 09:04 AM
One word of warning (i learnt this the hard way:mad: ) DON'T use a lead acid battery if installing under the bonnet of a D2, it WILL boil and leak acid all over the inner guard, sound proofing foam on the fire wall, roll over switch, ABS modulater (SLABS) ELECTICAL WIRING and chassis:mad:

Only use a sealed maintainence free battery:D

Baz.

BUGGER, that must have been expensive to repair.

I don’t know who ended up with my D2 but I hope they didn’t have the same problem.

Good warning there and a piece of handy info to be passed on.

Cheers