View Full Version : Contemplating removing gas or running on straight gas?? Which one??
RRV80
24th November 2006, 09:12 PM
I'm contemplating removing the gas sytem in my rangie 3.5carb is search of a boot and quite frankly, i havt really been a fan of gas, even though i havnt had a lot to do with it, but the system on mine, being carby, can be quite difficult to switch back from gas to petrol, often die'ing and it take ages to get it going again. Also being duel fuel it doesnt run real well on either as compensating for both in fuel and ignition 'maps' (for lack of better words) there is compromises to be made. It doesnt go as good, go as far, or sound as good on gas either - maybe the sound is just me;) So i'd get my boot, remove all the kinda dodgy wired electrical side of the gas sytem and get rid of all the clutter associated with gas.
The other option is to convert to straight gas, get and under-floor tank or something in place of the fuel tank, i hear that you can make them go much better this way as you only have to tune it for one fuel, as for the distance, will i be saving any money as compared to petrol as it uses more in gas?
The only other problem, even tho i dont intend to run out of fuel, its not like you can go to the servo and get a jerry can of LPG:p Also going this way is going to cost me more money anyway to set it up, wheras if i remove it, i wouldnt have to pay to set it up, and could possibly sell the old system.
Also she starts beut on petrol and runs great, i hear that there can be many problems associated with gas and cold starting?
What do people think would be the better option.
Michael2
24th November 2006, 09:27 PM
Petrol.
Otherwise you are very very very limited in range and have to fill at every opportunity on a trip, in case LPG is not available at the next one.
lokka
24th November 2006, 09:34 PM
go gas straight gas set u rite will out perform pety and get reasonable econ and u can fill a car tank with a normal say 9 kg gas botle all u neeed is a adaptor hose to fit between the bottle and the tank filler all u have to do then is hold the bottle upside down above the hight of the in car tank and open valve and the liquid will flow into the tank .
cheers
chris
crossy
24th November 2006, 09:44 PM
Keep both, get a decent ecu for running duel spark tables, shave the bejesus off the heads. Youll only be able to run premium and lpg but you wont suffer any power loss. (wont be cheap though). Fit an electric fuel pump to overcome the dead spot when changing from gas to petrol.
p38arover
24th November 2006, 09:47 PM
Advancing the ignition for LPG isn't a problem. I happen to have a device for that. I bought it for my previous RR and never used it. It was then gunna go on the County but i sold the County.
If you solved the problem of changing back to petrol, you may change your mind. Mount your tank along the axis of the vehicle rather than across it and you'll get your boot back. This will limit the tank size b ut it's worth it. This is how my classic was done. As you can see, the tank is on the RHS and taking up very little space :
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/560.jpg
Ron
tony
24th November 2006, 09:54 PM
Stick with the duel fuel I ran it for years on a carby 3.9 never noticed a loss in power from one to the other the only niggle was switching from gas to petrol have to wait for the pump to get fuel into the carby bowls but even that was'nt a real problem just get someone to set it right who knows what there talking about
and as to the space problem I had a 115 litter tank behind the rear seat built a shelf over the top of the tank ,barrier on that plenty of room, then when the kids stoped comeing out with us ( got his own rangie) took out the rear seat moved the tank forward more room than I know what to do with.
You can make it work really well had just over a 1000 K range with the gas an long range tank bloody great
T
RRV80
24th November 2006, 09:57 PM
I have a electric fuel pump as my RR is fitted with power steer, my gas tank is mounted that way in the back, but my tank is ALOT bigger than that, it is out further to clear the wheel well, the ignition is advanced its about 10 from memory,:o So now that i clarify that is how its done on my car, now what do people suggest? its auto too, so i cant use the engine brakeing to keep it running under load while switching over.
crossy
24th November 2006, 10:02 PM
I have a electric fuel pump as my RR is fitted with power steer, my gas tank is mounted that way in the back, but my tank is ALOT bigger than that, it is out further to clear the wheel well, the ignition is advanced its about 10 from memory,:o So now that i clarify that is how its done on my car, now what do people suggest? its auto too, so i cant use the engine brakeing to keep it running under load while switching over.
fit efi.
jasper110
24th November 2006, 11:32 PM
Also she starts beut on petrol and runs great, i hear that there can be many problems associated with gas and cold starting?.
i have a carb 1985 3.5 in my 110 and it starts easily on gas in the cold.even below -10 C although its not often that cold!!!
i also have a dual timing device that allows you to set the timing for gas and retards it automatically when you switch to petrol.
TJS-70Y
25th November 2006, 08:08 AM
I would get rid of the gas. I have just removed the gas from my 76 2 door as they wanted $900 to do the 10 year inspection on the tank. Since i got rid of it and tuned the computer (aftermarket EFI) which is about 2 weeks ago it starts better, runs better and i have got rid of my charging problem. I had a 140 litre tank that sat right up against the tailgate so i have got my load area back too.
Thomas
RRV80
25th November 2006, 08:34 AM
i just paid $280 to get the tank testen, some new valve thing put in and a piece of paper :p and the evacuate all the gas that was in there, - just a s well it wasnt much anyway. mm Yeah EFI sounds good lol, but again as i said cost more cash, i want to get my show car finished first, i soon have to fork out close to $5k for bodywork. EFI was/is on the cards for the future tho.
Seems as everyone has different opinions, but yeah we'll see, i dont mind paying for petrol that part of it isnt a priority, EFI on straight petrol is how its looking tho.
p38arover
25th November 2006, 09:57 AM
I have just removed the gas from my 76 2 door as they wanted $900 to do the 10 year inspection on the tank.
I paid $270 for the 10 year inspection a few months back.
Now you've removed it, you can take all those bits to an installer and get them to reinstall it with a new tank and claim the govt. $2000 rebate (yes, it applies to second hand systems).,
Ron
lokka
25th November 2006, 12:42 PM
I would get rid of the gas. I have just removed the gas from my 76 2 door as they wanted $900 to do the 10 year inspection on the tank. Since i got rid of it and tuned the computer (aftermarket EFI) which is about 2 weeks ago it starts better, runs better and i have got rid of my charging problem. I had a 140 litre tank that sat right up against the tailgate so i have got my load area back too.
Thomas
have you still got the old tank and do u want to sell it im after a biggie
cheers
chris
DeeJay
26th November 2006, 06:14 PM
I would get rid of the gas. I have just removed the gas from my 76 2 door as they wanted $900 to do the 10 year inspection on the tank. Since i got rid of it and tuned the computer (aftermarket EFI) which is about 2 weeks ago it starts better, runs better and i have got rid of my charging problem. I had a 140 litre tank that sat right up against the tailgate so i have got my load area back too.
Thomas
Jeez $900 bucks and you believed them? I just got two done at my home for $100 each, and the guy threw in a new dash guage for $25.00. Mind you I had to remove/ replace them in the vehicle myself.
RRV80
One of the critical area's for good gas performance is the spark. I fitted an aftermarket crane electronic module which pushed the spark plug gap out to 85 thou and it makes a big difference, Also, bear in mind running on straight gas will bypass the ADR'S for emission compliance. I have heard of Rangies being put off the road for having Holleys etc as this is a breach. Fitting EFI would be much preferable as you might kill the value with 100% gas. It gets back to cost.
loanrangie
26th November 2006, 06:47 PM
Keep it dual fuel and search for some twin under floor tanks and at least 1 sill petrol tank, are you running the strommies or aftermarket carb ? I know a lot of people arent fans of holley carbs but in a dual fuel situation where you will run on gas most of the time, a holley makes it very easy to setup. I had a 350 on mine will an impco lpg system and i never had any probs with changing fuels on the go i usually changed from pet to gas on a long stretch of downhill road letting the pet get burnt up and changing just before stall point and mine was auto as well. As said in a previous post lpg needs a good ignition system to get the best out of it.
p38arover
26th November 2006, 08:23 PM
Jeez $900 bucks and you believed them? I just got two done at my home for $100 each, and the guy threw in a new dash guage for $25.00. Mind you I had to remove/ replace them in the vehicle myself.
RRV80
'Zackly! I was not amused when I got the bill for mine. I'd removed the tank as well. I expected about 1/2 - 2/3 that with a new multivalve. That would have been OK as the multivalve needed a new sender. I didn't get a new multivalve nor a new sender so I still don't know how much gas in the tank.
The other problem I had was locating an inspector.
Ron
RRV80
26th November 2006, 08:37 PM
Everything is bog stock, carby's ignition - although the coil isnt std.
I have seen Grimace has a whole EFi engine for sale with probably almost everything i would need, might look into it:cool:
loanrangie
26th November 2006, 09:10 PM
Everything is bog stock, carby's ignition - although the coil isnt std.
I have seen Grimace has a whole EFi engine for sale with probably almost everything i would need, might look into it:cool:
if you do go the efi route you will need an efi tank with pump and the inlet and return lines as well.
RRV80
26th November 2006, 09:37 PM
i know, i have done carb-efi conversions before - he has them too apparently:)
TJS-70Y
27th November 2006, 04:39 PM
Yes well the person in question has a bit of a monopoly round here regarding lpg. The $900 was to remove the tank decant the gas test it change some wiring in the gas tight chamber bit and then reinstall the tank and put the gas back in. He doesn't like me much either cos I drive a four wheel drive so that wouldn't have helped. Im much happier though without the gas and the above was the last straw in deciding which way to go regarding straight lpg/straight petrol.
Thomas
DeeJay
27th November 2006, 09:56 PM
Yes well the person in question has a bit of a monopoly round here regarding lpg. The $900 was to remove the tank decant the gas test it change some wiring in the gas tight chamber bit and then reinstall the tank and put the gas back in. He doesn't like me much either cos I drive a four wheel drive so that wouldn't have helped. Im much happier though without the gas and the above was the last straw in deciding which way to go regarding straight lpg/straight petrol.
Thomas
I guess I have the benefit of a bigger city in which I live, plus the % of LPG vehicles is much higher here in Vic than other states. Its under 40 cpl at some servo's today- which is the main reason for the higher incidence.
The $100. each was on the Cash Up No Tick system, but I got certificates.
He did a Mytton Stainless tank earlier that I have inside the Landie and it was $220.00 coz of the multivalve.:p
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