BP vs Gull Biodiesel

[Sith]

Here are my findings after 1 month of using "GULL PETROLIUM BIODIESEL"

before running Gull fuels I ran B.P Diesels
I run 235x85x16 Goodyear MTR
I have a 300tdi with R380 in a 1991 Range Rover

My fuel tank holds 65 lts
My average km prior to Gull fuels was 550-565 km
I have never missed a fuel filter change on both the motor and the AC DELCO in the rear

Gull Biodiesel ...
My average km per tank 520-530km
My fuel filters clogged up twice ....both the AC DELCO and the motor filter

Observed whilst driving was ....less black smoke , noticeable loss of laden torque , constant stuttering when taking my foot off the accelorator or gearing down .

Went down to the last 7 lts yesterday , dropped the last out of the bottom of the tak , replace both filters again , dropped the BP Diesel in via jerry can .....what do you know ....no stuttering , more torque , and a bit more black smoke ...

[loanrangie]

Why is your fuel tank so small ? rangie's had 81 ltr tanks at smallest ?

[Sith]

Sorry mate can't answer that one , from empty it only fills 65 lts ....

[Michael2]

I've heard that after you run Bio-D you should change your fuel filters. Bio-D dissolves gunk in your tank and lines and clogs the filters. After a couple of tanks you won't need to change the filters any more frequently than you do with Dino-D.

Maybe your stuttering problems were a fuel delivery issue due to clogging filters.

A friend with a 3.0L Patrol is keen to run Bio-D and told me he'll be changing filters after 1 or 2 tanks.

Personally, I'd like to see it a lot cheaper before going from BP, but I'd give it a go for the right price. Another mate with a TD5 D2 reckons he got more power and economy the couple of times he ran Bio-D in the past.

[EchiDna]

hey sith, did you monitor the $/km? how does that work out?
(excluding the fuel filters) - same as Michael2, I've heard you will clean out the sh!te in your motor over a few tanks then it should run just as clean as dino...hence the filter blockages.

did you 're-tune' when you changed fuels?

[Sith]

No i didn't retune , wouldn't know how to .
The difference in price is as follows

BP $1.27 a lt
GBD $1.24 a lt

[EchiDna]

so on the BP, it was $1.27*65/550 = $0.15/km
and the GBD, $1.24*65/520 = $0.155/km

hmm...
no economic benefit then...unless of course you make your own ;)

[lenleggo]

Hi all, thanks for all the good advice on here.

I have a 96 TDi Disco. Have rebuilt pretty much everything in it including a new head with valves etc. One thing I did do really right was put in a Hyclone. I dont get any better fuel consumption but the old Landy gets away from the lights like a real car and not a door stop,, I'm guessing easy 20% more power possibly more. Driving a mates TDi without the Hyclone is a terrible step down in power.

Have run a few tank fulls of 80% used fish and chip oil, runs ok but had to replace the filters. I use Nulon injector cleaner every few tanks to keep the black smoke down.

I decided to give the Gull Bio Deisel a run and report the following.

No change in power
No Change in consumption 840km per 80 litres
A big saving on fuel BP 1.29 to $1.34 Gull 1.18
A warm feeling in my heart for helping save the planet.

I was thinking the last few days how sweet and smooth Landy is running on the Bio Deisel, substantially lower revs give smooth acceleration. The black smoke puff on starting is much less obvious. I also conciously refilled at Gull rather than use pure deisel.

Do you guys think it may be the Hyclone??

Thanks again Len.

[F4Phantom]

are you sure the hiclone is making more power? you rebuilt your engine? Can you take it out and do some sort of anecdotal test to see if the hiclone actually does make a difference?

[lenleggo]

Hi,

Sorry am not prepared to pull the Hyclone out, the test drive of my mates TDi was the test I did to compare power. He was stunned at how much faster mine was when we swapped cars, and we did do the drag from the lights after we had finished jaw boning and mine was literally streets ahead.

I understand thats fairly empirical and there are lots of other variables like quality of the motors, tuning, valve settings & of course fuel, but the result was unambiguous.

It was in my mind to have the motor dyno-tested when I went to upgrade the intercooler to a higher pressure higher volume one that my then mechanic (Guest & Puddey) told me about, unfortunately the business is no more, so if anyone has advice on the intercooler and a mechanic to fit it please let me know.

Cheers

[101RRS]

Hiclones are a proven waste of money. They have been scientifically tested not to work.

Garry

[Blknight.aus]

why is it I get the feeling that this whole thread is going to be pointed in the direction of


"look how good my hiclone is..."

[rick130]

where's the link to the UK board where they did some back to back dyno tests and the results were within the accepted error of the dyno :twisted:

[rick130]

This thread links to the UK tests http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/52010-pommy-hiclone-test.html

[D3Jon]

I don't use Gull Bio-D in any of my cars as I think Gull are cheaky for selling their B20 blend at almost the exact same price as the other brands. Often more when you take into account the 4C per litre savings at Caltex and Coles Express (Shell). Also my D3 user manual said the new car warranty was void if bio-diesel was used.

The RAC website actually names Gull and says this:

The RAC advises members that use of Gull BIO-D could void their vehicle warranty. If you want to use Gull BIO-D, and are concerned about your warranty, check with your vehicle manufacturer whether they approve its use.

The WA Government Fuelwatch web site says this:

Before using biodiesel products, motorists are advised to contact their vehicle manufacturer to determine if biodiesel is suitable for use in their vehicle. Motorists with older vehicles (models prior to 1996) should be aware that there have been reports of minor problems with rubber or synthetic parts in the fuel lines and pump seals as the result of biodiesel use. However, these parts can be replaced with more modern components. Additionally, all motorists using biodiesel should be aware that fuel filters should be regularly checked during maintenance servicing .

Jon

[chazza]

Hi,

Sorry am not prepared to pull the Hyclone out, the test drive of my mates TDi was the test I did to compare power. He was stunned at how much faster mine was when we swapped cars, and we did do the drag from the lights after we had finished jaw boning and mine was literally streets ahead.

I understand thats fairly empirical and there are lots of other variables like quality of the motors, tuning, valve settings & of course fuel, but the result was unambiguous.

Cheers

I disagree; I think your comparison between two different cars is not only ambiguous but rather pointless.

The only valid comparison would be to take the Hiclone out and see what different it makes using 2 or 3 test drivers on the same track testing times and fuel consumption over multiple passes.

At the moment all we know is that your car is faster than your mate's one!

[lardy]

dont waste your time buying bio from servo's, they quality of their basic diesel is amazing, due to the condition of the tank its stored in as well as the basic product.
when bio cleans your fuel lines, injectors, tank etc you are putting crud back in (possibly not to the same standard) so i would suggest it's pointless adding servo's version of bio to your tank at all !
if you want real bio i can put you onto a supplier of b100 in perth and there are various suppliers of b100 around Australia.
And in my experience you should expect to get better economy depending on the wear on your vehicle and a reduction in smoke when the system has cleaned itself.
filter change requirement usually occurs after 5000k

[isuzurover]

To make something clear, the "Gull Biodiesel" which is being discussed is "up to 20%" BD. SO anywhere between B0 and B20.

I have run it a few times (when it is the cheapest option SOR), and noticed no difference in power or economy, and no blocked filters.

[Turtle61]

I run my Freelander on B100 (tallow-based) from The Biodiesel Station in Marrickville (Sydney) and found that it gives me worse economy by about 10% when compared to the same driving style and conditions to BP diesel (or any other mineral diesel fuel).

There seems to be no adverse effects and the engine, it seems to run smoother on bio, exhausts smell like burnt snags on the barbie but does not give me the same milage.

Haven't investigated the effects on economy on VolumePlus' B60.

[lardy]

[QUOTE=Turtle61;900444]I run my Freelander on B100 (tallow-based) from The Biodiesel Station in Marrickville (Sydney) and found that it gives me worse economy by about 10% when compared to the same driving style and conditions to BP diesel (or any other mineral diesel fuel).

That is interesting, spec b100 should give better economy slightly due to the higher setane ( diesel version of octane) but then you are using tallow ( animal fat -bugger that!) i use only vegetable oil based bio as it does not have the same gelling especially when we have the cold week in the year here in perth, you would end up with solid fuel ...great for candles maybe no for cars

[Spenboyd]

Lardy is your 130 a TD5 or TDi? I was wondering about feeding the Disco the good oil and is your supplier the bloke in O'connor?

[lardy]

its a 300 tdi the bloke i have is a great guy and gives yo old fashion service he is james st midvale i think it comes under send me a pm and i'll get his number for ya or i'll forget cheers

[lloyds disco]

To make something clear, the "Gull Biodiesel" which is being discussed is "up to 20%" BD. SO anywhere between B0 and B20.

I have run it a few times (when it is the cheapest option SOR), and noticed no difference in power or economy, and no blocked filters.


This is true, but regular fuel can have upto 20% bio & still be called 100% dino