D1 Auto, How to fully change fluid?

[Lowrange]

Greetings...
I am doing (slowly), trip prep on the Disconaute, and want to change the auto fluid to synth. My Haynes manual says bugger all on servicing the auto!

I assume you need to drop the pan and replace/clean a screen/filter?

To drain all the fluid to change over to synth, can you, or do you need to drain the tourque converter?

Thanks...

[byron]

Greetings...
I am doing (slowly), trip prep on the Disconaute, and want to change the auto fluid to synth. My Haynes manual says bugger all on servicing the auto!

I assume you need to drop the pan and replace/clean a screen/filter?

To drain all the fluid to change over to synth, can you, or do you need to drain the tourque converter?

Thanks...

OK, there's good news:) and bad news:( .........1st the good news: ....it's dead easy to drain the tranny:

(1) drain via the auto-trans sump plug [make sure you remove dipstick and its seal!] drain it all out and refill with approximately same but a bit less fluid [DO NOT ADD TOO MUCH! - FINAL CHECK MUST BE DONE WHEN FLUID IS COLD idling in NEUTRAL after going up and down each gear position on quadrant and holding it for 5-10 seconds in each......if fluid check has to be done with fluid hot it should be NO MORE than 19 mm above the full mark - this is only a guide - FLUID CAN ONLY BE CHECKED ACCURATELY WHEN COLD!] ;)

(2)to make sure you change as much fluid as possible out of the torque converter warm up transmission by going on at least a 5-7 klm drive so it's hot then undo one of the transmission cooler lines and run the engine with trans in Park allowing old fluid to flow out [via a hose or something] into a pan whilst adding SAME or slightly LESS fresh fluid via the filler tube, hopefully you'll notice when you've got a change of colour between old and new. DO NOT OVERFILL - CHECK FLUID AGAIN WHEN COLD using method described above] ;)

NOW THE BAD NEWS!:To change the filter you've oviously got to drop the oil pan......to do this you have remove the Lambda /Oxygen sensors from both exhaust pipes and any heat shields, take off both Catalytic Convertors, undo bottom connections of auto trans filler tube, remove the chassis cross member and drop the pan.......as they always say, to replace it just reverse the procedure.......Because this is such a long and fiddly procedure you're making a wise decision to change to a good sythetic fluid as this should triple your service interval! The ZF box is a very good tranny and only goes bad usually from leaving old worn out fluid and clogged up filters in it according to atomatic tranny specialists.;)

[justinc]

In a Tdi D1 you have no Cats, oxy sensors or anything in the way. I find it easier to remove all but the top front crossmember bolts, ( The round section one, not the trans support square section one...)loosen them only and then pivot it up and forward. (Or you can remove it if you like)Removing the pan is easy, but some vehicles have a clearance problem with the LH rear corner pan bolt, which fouls the LH rear g'box mount bracket. If yours is one of these, you need to undo the mounting main nuts, jack the transfer case up a little and undo and remove the LH bracket to get to the pan bolt. (I then die grind the bracket to suit so I don't have to repeat this in the future. Interestingly, this bracket issue was rectified in the disco2, with all being reshaped to facilitate easy removal.)

All the rest is as Byron says, and make sure you flush it well.

Have fun.

JC

[Bigbjorn]

I changed and flushed the auto trans. in my late model Falcon ute (no drain plug) at 80000 k's by disconnecting the return line from cooler to trans. at the trans. The damn thing does not have a filler tube or a dipstick either, just a bung in the side of the trans. I made up a filler tube with a pipe fitting, a length of hose and a funnel. Start it up in neutral or park, and pour new fluid into the funnel until it is coming out of the return line clean. Stop engine, reconnect return line, check fluid level and take for a drive, recheck fluid level and top-up as necessary. Some time later, about 140000 k's, I dropped the pan to install a new strainer (I refuse to call it a filter) and put in a drain plug while the pan was off.

[byron]

In a Tdi D1 you have no Cats, oxy sensors or anything in the way. I find it easier to remove all but the top front crossmember bolts, ( The round section one, not the trans support square section one...)loosen them only and then pivot it up and forward. (Or you can remove it if you like)Removing the pan is easy, but some vehicles have a clearance problem with the LH rear corner pan bolt, which fouls the LH rear g'box mount bracket. If yours is one of these, you need to undo the mounting main nuts, jack the transfer case up a little and undo and remove the LH bracket to get to the pan bolt. (I then die grind the bracket to suit so I don't have to repeat this in the future. Interestingly, this bracket issue was rectified in the disco2, with all being reshaped to facilitate easy removal.)

All the rest is as Byron says, and make sure you flush it well.

Have fun.

JC


Yeah, you're right;) ......Sorry I was just going back to when I did it on one of mine [V8].....I forgot to check what sort the Q was about ......Cheers anyway!:)

[Lowrange]

Tanks folks...
How to flush the trans?
Is the pan a gasket or goo type?
I was thinking of Redline if feelinf rich or poss Penrite? I have also heard about Syntrans?
Any one used these...the redline is most expensive by a way...
Cheers and thanks again...

[matbor]

good guide, with pics here....

http://www.difflock.com/servicing/ZF-auto-oilchange/ZFauto-oilchange.shtml

Matt.

[byron]

Tanks folks...
How to flush the trans?
Is the pan a gasket or goo type?
I was thinking of Redline if feelinf rich or poss Penrite? I have also heard about Syntrans?
Any one used these...the redline is most expensive by a way...
Cheers and thanks again...

Use a gasket and Hylomar for best results.....;)

Redline is pricy - but absolutely superb....it's the best choice for longevity....you won't have to drop that pan again for a looooong time!;)

Penrite is a bit too low tech for me and they don't make a synthetic auto trans fluid, Syntrax is OK, but I'd go for the Redline. ;)

If you do the job yourself you can put the saved price of labour for the job towards the price of the Redline and amortise some of it's cost! ;)

[chazza]

This is a job I have to do as well.

My '96 Disco 1 doesn't have catalytic converters. Is it possible to take the crossmember off, with the exhaust still in place?

Good tip for getting the fluid out of the torque converter Byron; I haven't heard of this before,
cheers Chazza

[justinc]

This is a job I have to do as well.

My '96 Disco 1 doesn't have catalytic converters. Is it possible to take the crossmember off, with the exhaust still in place?

Good tip for getting the fluid out of the torque converter Byron; I haven't heard of this before,
cheers Chazza

I leave the exhaust on, and push (Read ; hammer mecilessly)the crossmember as far up towards the front as possible. This will give you enough room to get the pan off. If extractors are fitted, you will probably be able to unbolt the crossover Y piece and get the crossmember far enough away. You hope.

JC