Stub axles.

[wovenrovings]

Does anyone know if the stub axles on a rear rover axle is the same bolt pattern as the salibury axle stubs?

[isuzurover]

Yes

[JDNSW]

Yes. Not only the same bolt pattern but the same stub axle. But note that they both changed during S3 production.

John

[UncleHo]

G'day Wovenroverings :)

The stub axles and bearings are the same pattern but the Stud and nut size changed to heaver, to take the extra power :eek: of the 6 cyl and the salisbury diff,


cheers

[isuzurover]

the Stud and nut size changed to heaver, to take the extra power :eek: of the 6 cyl and the salisbury diff,

Really?!?! I would have thought it was just a rationalisation/modernisation. Press-in studs are so much better than screw-in.

[JDNSW]

Really?!?! I would have thought it was just a rationalisation/modernisation. Press-in studs are so much better than screw-in.

I think there is some confusion here. I think the original poster was asking about the stub axle to axle housing bolt pattern - which remained the same, but unless I am mistaken (always possible) the wheel bearings changed in late S3 production to the same as in the 110.

I think Uncle Ho is referring to the change in wheel studs - and the change to press in studs was not simultaneous with the change from 9/16"BSF to 16mm - the press in studs are listed as an alternative in 9/16" (although I have never seen any).

The change to 16mm studs was at S2a suffix H and had nothing to do with the six cylinder engine - early sixes would have had 9/16 studs, but of course the S3 military Landrovers were probably the first in the army with both the six and the 16mm studs.

The change to 16mm was simply part of the move to metric units, as all Landrovers have a much stronger wheel stud arrangement than any comparable vehicle because they are both thicker studs and more widely spaced.

John

[wovenrovings]

Thanks some very interesting info there (for me). I have found the rear end of a range rover which I could get some bits off. Was thinking that maybe i could get some disks on the back.:D Drums did work fine but now they need reconditioning. Could get disks on for similar price to some new drums and shoes. Have saved me quite a bit of measuring. Will have to check some other things like axle to hub distance, mounts and stuff.

Cheers
WR

[isuzurover]

Thanks some very interesting info there (for me). I have found the rear end of a range rover which I could get some bits off. Was thinking that maybe i could get some disks on the back.:D Drums did work fine but now they need reconditioning. Could get disks on for similar price to some new drums and shoes. Have saved me quite a bit of measuring. Will have to check some other things like axle to hub distance, mounts and stuff.

Cheers
WR

Are you talking about converting the county rear to discs?

It is a fairly easy job, you DON't Need to change stub axles - just hubs. And there is a bolt-on caliper mount available.

Don't use rangie rear calipers though, they are smaller than 110 rears. Either use 110 rears, rangie fronts (converted to only one circuit per caliper) or Ford cortina (twin piston) fronts.

[wovenrovings]

Sooo... Is the range rover rear disk the same size as the 110 rear disk?

Also any idea where the adapter for the different caliper could be found? I guess with the 110 caliper it would be ideal to get the mount as well. In which case it would probably be just as easy to get the whole show off a 110.

[isuzurover]

Sooo... Is the range rover rear disk the same size as the 110 rear disk?

Also any idea where the adapter for the different caliper could be found? I guess with the 110 caliper it would be ideal to get the mount as well. In which case it would probably be just as easy to get the whole show off a 110.

I think RRC rears are the same as 110 rears but not 100% sure. In 1993/4ish LR changed to narrower hubs (closer bearing spacing) - which IMO was a bad move for strength and longevity. The best hubs to use would probably be county front hubs.

The bolt-on caliper mopunt was only used for a short time, AFAIK once the narrow hubs were introduced, the caliper mounts were welded on.

So - you could just "swap everything over" from a disc braked defender, but you would have to swap, hubs, stubs, brakes, AND axles/halfshafts. Then you would end up with the inferior (narrow bearing) hubs.

Best to just get a set of pre 1993 110 front hubs, buy some new discs (they are cheap), and new caliper mounts, and then source the appropriate calipers from a wrecker.

You will also need a brake proportioning valve.