Spray foam soundproofing

[abaddonxi]

I was thinking of going a little wild the spray foam as sound deadening.

Anyone tried? Success, failure, tips?

My idea was around the tcase to try and kill some of the horrible noise. Then anywhere else if it worked.

I was going to lay down a bit of gladwrap or similar, then the foam, then peel the lot off and glue back on with something easy to remove if it all goes pear shaped.

I'm a little worried about the foam sealing in moisture, and of course how heat/oil resistant the foam is.

Comments please.

Cheers,
Simon.

[Ruslan]

Hi Simon,
I've been thinking to use spray foam too, but after research decided to go with Thermo-Tec (http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/search.php?brand=Thermo-Tec) staff like Acoustic and Heat Shield mats. It costs... but does the job very well (according to what people say).

Cheers,
Ruslan

[crump]

I tried one of the spray on ones in my wheel arches, never made any difference.

[isuzurover]

I was thinking of going a little wild the spray foam as sound deadening.

Anyone tried? Success, failure, tips?

My idea was around the tcase to try and kill some of the horrible noise. Then anywhere else if it worked.

I was going to lay down a bit of gladwrap or similar, then the foam, then peel the lot off and glue back on with something easy to remove if it all goes pear shaped.

I'm a little worried about the foam sealing in moisture, and of course how heat/oil resistant the foam is.

Comments please.

Cheers,
Simon.


I know people who have used it in the past - they said it worked fairly well.

There are 2 types of foam available - open cell and closed cell. Make sure you get closed cell as it doesn't absorb moisture.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

whats wrong with the proper sound deadener you can buy......

it comes in spray cans or 4 litre tins......which can be sprayed on or brushed on.......


or.....another option is a product designed for ute trays....a spray on liner....
i think rhino liner is one brand....

discowhite may have a bit more info on this....he used it on the 90.......reckons he can hear the missus now.....

[EchiDna]

how about a decent layer of rhinolining? (or equivalent DIY like hippo liner) it sticks... so moisture can't get under it and has sound deadening properties too - I'm very tempted to do this all over the lower interior of my county (even inside the doors) as rust/noise/heat reducing barrier...

there was also a great article in the january LRM on noise reduction for a series 3 using materials precut from a closed cell foam material made by noise killer: http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/sound_proofing_vehicles_01.php

there is also this roundup of common (US) sound deadener materials:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ which gives good technical info about materials and types...


good luck!

[EchiDna]

hmm defenderzook beat me too it :)

[Rovernaut]

I pulled up the carpets, painted the inside passenger compartments with sound deadener. ( smelt strong for about a week till it properly cured) the got some rubber waffle carpet underlay (about 6 mm) underlay, laid that and then relaid the OEm rubber mat underlay and carpet back.
Also added some extra rubber underlay on top of the sound deadener rubber under the centre console. Helped quite a bit.
Also the sound deadenere water proofed the cabin floor as I noticed the A/c drain pipe can over flow when blocked and notced some rust developing under the carpet.

[Vern]

I used some fibreglass matting designed for noise absorption from a place that makes sound deadening blankets and stuff. It was about an inch thick but compacts down well, works real well, drowns out the chev sound :D

[JDNSW]

You need to think about how the various products work. There are several factors that affect the apparent sound level inside a vehicle, apart from the amount of sound actually generated.

1. (easiest to deal with) Panels vibrating due to engine or other vibration. Change the vibration characteristics of the panel by tightening the screws that hold it, or applying something to it that increases the mass or rigidity or both of the panel to move its resonant frequency away from the frequency of the vibration. More or less included with this is bits vibrating against other bits, such as the rear side windows vibrating against their track - you have to put some padding in between the two bits to stop them touching.

2. (second easiest) Noise bouncing round inside the vehicle. Reduced by increasing the amount of sound absorbing padding inside, to reduce the reflection of sound. For example, rubber matting absorbs more sound than bare metal, and carpet even more.

3. (most difficult) Sound proofing - prevention of the transmission of sound through the panels. Sound will not transmit well through the interfaces between layers with very different acoustic impedance. The most effective will be one (or more) layer(s) of elastic low density material (e.g. foam) separated by layers of dense, rigid material (e.g. lead). This is often approximated in commercial materials by loading foam with granules of lead. Apart from being expensive and often difficult to apply (so it stays on), this method suffers from the fact that even small gaps in the shield will transmit a surprising proportion of the noise.

Just spraying foam on the noisy side of a sheet metal panel will provide some improvement from factor 1, and a little from factor 3, although not much, because the spray foam is usually too rigid to provide a really good impedance mismatch with the sheet metal, although the spray on material is very good for not leaving holes.

John

[Blknight.aus]

ID be going the fibre glass matting as the deadners (except the black tar like spary on stuff that goes funny and goopy with oil exposure) tend to trap moisture behind them...

Applied correctly they're not to bad but thats the rub... the area needs to be spotlessly preped before application.

[abaddonxi]

I had a go round with the sound deadening stuff on the last beastie. Wonderful stuff, about an inch thick of felt topped with heavy rubber and foil.

Weighed a great deal.

I'm thinking of something that can go on the outside of the tcase hatch, so waterproof. I also want something I can get rid of without too much hassle if I don't like it.

Cheers
Simon.

[tombraider]

discowhite may have a bit more info on this....he used it on the 90.......reckons he can hear the missus now.....

Dammit! Not going to use it in mine then!!!!

:wasntme:

[Michael2]

On the SIII I used 10mm closed cell high density foam under the bonnet, on the engine side of the firewall (on al flat surfaces where I could glue it) and I used the same same material with a vinyl laminated onto it (as a floor mat) on the footwells. I made a similar cover for the middle section of the firewall that clipped in with a couple of elastic tarp clips. I also laid the same foam on the back floor with a heavy rubber mat on top of it. The cieling and walls were covered in marine carpet and the the tansmission tunnel & seat box also have 10mm closed cell foam underneath and 2mm cloth back foam inside the cab.

I could talk to my passanger at 110kph. Previous to this speeds over 90kph were "thinking time" not "talking time".

It took some years of expreimenting with various materials to get to this solution. Progress was limited to what I could buy cheap. If $$$ aren't an issue, you may be able to get something right away.

Have you had a look at the acoustic mat sold in the UK which is a moulded floor / firewall / seatbox insulation for Defenders & Series Land Rovers that uses the same kind of materials as used in earthmoving equipment. According to their info a significant amount of noise reduction comes from insulating the seat box.

Soryy to ramble.

[zwitter]

Firstly i will comment that lead is not common for sound deadning these days due to health concerns. It has largely been replaced by Barium loaded vinyl products. Infact the covering of the seatbox in defenders is barium loaded vinyl albeit a very thin version. they are rated by transmission and absorbtion of sound at various frequencies and generally the heavier the better

I have replaced the TXcase in the defender 130 with 1.2Q version-good, one less whine but can now hear the rear diff. I also installed the Dieselgas system for more power.

Went to a good aussie company in Girraween -Sydney Pyrotek / sound guard. The guy said buy a differnt car! But they do the work on same LRs for the Army.

I put the self adhesive tar/felt pads every where, in doors, floor, hump, seat boxes. Adds weight to shift the resonant frequency down so you do not hear it. 1Kg / msq

I bought 2 x 4m x1.3m (7Kg / msq) rolls of silent tread designed to go under wooden floors in units etc and put oit under the floor mats front and rear, I put it up behind AC and recovered the front seat box under cubby box, removable panels under seats. Inside rear seatbox. Pulled rear seats out and put it all across the back of the 130s cab.

Then I replaced all floormats front and rear.

In the back seat floor I added a ribbed 5mm thick rubber and put aluminium trims at the door sills to hold it all down.

I filled all the seat boxes with stuff to stop them drumming. Passengers- 2 batteries, drivers- Tools, Rear - recovery gear and spare parts.

Next I want to put a heavy ute mat in the rear tub.

I have used a Sound meter along the way and it has dropped each stage.

Probably some 50Kg of products but i can criuse at 110Kph and talk to the wife and the kids can hear the tape player in the back. The gears change makes hill starts tougher but well worth it as 120 is still comfortable and i have had it to 140 odd

Spent $500 on sound products and $1300 for TX gears and $4600 on the gas system. Is a much nicer truck to drive both in town and on the open road.

Worth every cent to keep the wife happy.

zwitter

[maggsie]

I used 'Formshield' from Clark Rubber to reduce heat and noise in the County. Not expensive either and easy to use.

Maggsie

[cameron]

geez zwitter, you didn't muck around!

If that didn't / doesn't work I don't think anything would!