Fitting D2 Diff Lock

[grumpybastard]

Having a search i cant find anything about fitting the removed linkage for the Discovery 2, even though im sure i first read about it here somewhere.:no2:

It appears theres a few different after market products out there?

Can anyone shed more light on this one?

[LoadedDisco]

Having a search i cant find anything about fitting the removed linkage for the Discovery 2, even though im sure i first read about it here somewhere.:no2:

It appears theres a few different after market products out there?

Can anyone shed more light on this one?

If you already have an air compressor fitted give (FAT50) a PM he has made his centre diff lock air actuate in his D2.

[ladas]

This may seem a silly question, but are you sure your transfer case has the mechanism in it.

[grumpybastard]

This may seem a silly question, but are you sure your transfer case has the mechanism in it.

No such thing as silly questions, only silly answers ....

nope not yet :) I havent crawled under yet... btw where am i looking on the transfer case?

2000 D2 so from what i have read i stand a good chance?

[ladas]

No such thing as silly questions, only silly answers ....

nope not yet :) I havent crawled under yet... btw where am i looking on the transfer case?

2000 D2 so from what i have read i stand a good chance?

Oh okay - with the 2000 D2 you should be okay - it seems like there were just a few from late 2001 through to sometime in 2002 - and guess where my vehicle falls into :(

The location is as per attached - please ignore the hand written notes "rear shaft" and "handbrake drum" - this should read "front shaft" and "TC housing" - sorry a 'blonde' moment.

[grumpybastard]

Thanks Ladas thats awesome!

Any recommendations on kits? Ritters do one but its $$$ since its complex being the same setup as the D1 has. http://www.ritter.com.au/News.htm

then theres this one http://www.amv.com.au/SeriesIIDifflock.htm no idea what $$$$ it costs.

[ladas]

Thanks Ladas thats awesome!

Any recommendations on kits? Ritters do one but its $$$ since its complex being the same setup as the D1 has. http://www.ritter.com.au/News.htm

then theres this one http://www.amv.com.au/SeriesIIDifflock.htm no idea what $$$$ it costs.

I have heard that these are quite good, plus they have an outlet very near you in Ringwood


http://www.amv.com.au/SeriesIIDifflock.htm

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I have an AMV one and found it faultless,,
dash looks factory fitted.
just swapped the coin tray for the ashtray:p

[grumpybastard]

I have an AMV one and found it faultless,,
dash looks factory fitted.
just swapped the coin tray for the ashtray:p

What sort of $$$ are we looking at?

And does it make a significant difference?

[FenianEel]

Check wreckers and Landy specialists as well, they often factory ones or a selection of aftermarket ones too.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

$850 fitted,,
makes a WORLD of difference.


one of the biggest differences ( to me) is the ability to turn TC off in sand.
TC and CDL combined is very effective.

[grumpybastard]

one of the biggest differences ( to me) is the ability to turn TC off in sand.
TC and CDL combined is very effective.

You have pretty much echoed my thoughts, i was a little disappointed with the way the D2 struggled through sand on my holiday in Robe over Xmas. Heading back that way again next year.

Only thing i wish is that it didnt take the coin tray, would prefer if i could use one of the multitude of switch blanking covers instead

[ladas]

You have pretty much echoed my thoughts, i was a little disappointed with the way the D2 struggled through sand on my holiday in Robe over Xmas. Heading back that way again next year.

Only thing i wish is that it didnt take the coin tray, would prefer if i could use one of the multitude of switch blanking covers instead


Matt - it's just a switch - you could use any 'temp on - off - temp on' switch of the correct rating - and fit it anywhere you like. (well within reason):D

[grumpybastard]

Ive been told more than once where i can put things :lol2:

[ladas]

Ive been told more than once where i can put things :lol2:


I don't think you are on your own ;)

[cal415]

I tried the AMV unit, had alot of issues with it, so i went for D2a lever out of the 2003+ d2s, i picked up the whole mechanism for 500ish and installed it myself, it works perfectly and no eletric motors to go bad and fill with mud/sand/water on you!

It makes a huge difference offroad alround - especialy noticable on the beach with TC and ABS off. On bush tracks with a bit of uphill loose stuff the traction control barely ever kicks in with the CDL locked and the car just seems to walk over things a hell of a lot easier and with less right foot needed :)

[Piddler]

Hi All,

I bought the Bruce Davis Mechanical actuator.
Locks the CDL when in low range only automatically only around $300 bucks nothing to bugger up dead simple.

Cheers

[MT]

Hi All,

I bought the Bruce Davis Mechanical actuator.
Locks the CDL when in low range only automatically only around $300 bucks nothing to bugger up dead simple.

Cheers

Is that fitted?

[LandyAndy]

Hi GrumpyBastard.
Im a cheepskate!!!! I made my own!!!! All the details should be in the archives.Basicaly a bracket that fits the 10mm slot on the acuator,I got a bit of alternator adjust bracket off a Ford.Bend it at 90deg then weld it to a socket set extension.You need 2 socket set uni joints,and 3 extensions.you get the extensions setup with the uni joints up thru the floor and console and fit a handle to the top,just twist to engage,very simple!!!Get the bits from a hock shop CHEEEP,BUT most cheap unijoints have roll pins,renove and replace with a nail and weld,weld all socket bits together when the lengths are all sorted.
Try searches in the arhcive for "my diy cdl broke itself"
Last time I searched I eventually found it.
If your D2 is auto you should be able to use a D1/Rangie lever setup,sorry if its manual it wont work,been there tried that!!!!
Andrew

[pgf]

Try Ray at Romsey Land rovers.
Home home made manual turn a knob one works a treat and cost under $200 fitted.
Wouldnt be without it.

[lokka]

I tried the AMV unit, had alot of issues with it, so i went for D2a lever out of the 2003+ d2s, i picked up the whole mechanism for 500ish and installed it myself, it works perfectly and no eletric motors to go bad and fill with mud/sand/water on you!

It makes a huge difference offroad alround - especialy noticable on the beach with TC and ABS off. On bush tracks with a bit of uphill loose stuff the traction control barely ever kicks in with the CDL locked and the car just seems to walk over things a hell of a lot easier and with less right foot needed :)


Yep like mick said stay away from the electronic jobbie total PITA and a bastard to fit go for the lever type dead simple even if you get a home brew jobbie itl out last the amv jobbie

[cal415]

Hi All,

I bought the Bruce Davis Mechanical actuator.
Locks the CDL when in low range only automatically only around $300 bucks nothing to bugger up dead simple.

Cheers
No good for the beach, cant lock it in high range and i very rarely use low on the sand.

[tombraider]

Hi All,

I bought the Bruce Davis Mechanical actuator.
Locks the CDL when in low range only automatically only around $300 bucks nothing to bugger up dead simple.

Cheers

Major shortcoming on sand though! When u want High locked, or when backing heavy trailers and you want low UNlocked...

Seen this systems shortcomings first hand...

=================

Spend the cash and get a Genuine D2a unit....

Perfect!

[grumpybastard]

Spend the cash and get a Genuine D2a unit....

Is this the same setup Ritters (http://www.ritter.com.au/News.htm) have? (half way down the page)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Discovery Series II Centre Difflock

It's a long story, really... Everyone's recognised the need for a driver-controlled centre difflock for the more adventurous 4WDers. Everyone had their ideas on how it should be done. There have been at least 4 types available from various specialists for some time now. We sat on the fence and tried all the others but none offered the functionality and simplicity we were looking for.

So here is a simple, all mechanical difflock control using the time-proven 2-lever system. Everything included - the rubber boot, vinyl gaiter, knob and all the mechanical bits. The lever is mounted to the floor and connects to the transmission via flexible Teleflex cable (just like the HI/LO shift) to reduce transfer of mechanical noise into the cabin.

Fitted price - $690. Kit Price - $490.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[ladas]

Is this the same setup Ritters (http://www.ritter.com.au/News.htm) have? (half way down the page)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Discovery Series II Centre Difflock

It's a long story, really... Everyone's recognised the need for a driver-controlled centre difflock for the more adventurous 4WDers. Everyone had their ideas on how it should be done. There have been at least 4 types available from various specialists for some time now. We sat on the fence and tried all the others but none offered the functionality and simplicity we were looking for.

So here is a simple, all mechanical difflock control using the time-proven 2-lever system. Everything included - the rubber boot, vinyl gaiter, knob and all the mechanical bits. The lever is mounted to the floor and connects to the transmission via flexible Teleflex cable (just like the HI/LO shift) to reduce transfer of mechanical noise into the cabin.

Fitted price - $690. Kit Price - $490.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't know if it's as the OE - but the kit price looks very good.

[5teve]

and im guessing witha 2002 discoII then i need the transfer case too? where would i pick something up like that in perth? and typically would i need a mortgage extension to buy it :)

Steve

[grumpybastard]

Don't know if it's as the OE - but the kit price looks very good.

Rang Ritters and spoke to Craig, its a second lever type arrangement.

To disable TC you need to enable the CDL then turn the ignition off and on again

Also told its a bit of a bugger to install, need an oxy to bend one of the bars and it takes them about 3 hours to install

[maggsie]

Go to: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ and check their unit out, it even has fitting instructions.

Maggsie

[ladas]

and im guessing witha 2002 discoII then i need the transfer case too? where would i pick something up like that in perth? and typically would i need a mortgage extension to buy it :)

Steve

Steve

Some 2002 D2's have the mechanism - not many but I understand there are some, if you look at the attachment on the 5th post of this thread it shows you where to look and what to look for.

Who knows - you may be one of the lucky ones.

[grumpybastard]

Go to: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ and check their unit out, it even has fitting instructions.

Maggsie

Any clues? I cant find it? Must be blind :eek:

[Redback]

FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

The OEM CDL kit replaces the existing D2 Transfer Box gear selector mechanism with one with an additional cable run to the top of the transfer box mechanism, where it engages the CDL spigot. You need a gearbox with a spigot to begin with, otherwise it"s a non-starter. Please ensure your vehicle is suitable, please read the information above to find out whether your gearbox is suitable, and what to order if it isn"t.
You"ll also need a nylock nut, an M8; a washer to match; and 13 rivets - I used 4.7x17mm pop rivets.
Apart from the usual hand tools, you may also need something which will cut laminated steel plate, and you"ll need a drill, and of course a rivet gun.

1) Unclip the gearstick gaiters. Unscrew both gearknobs. Remove the top half of the main gearstick by removing the bolt at the join completely and sliding off.

2) Remove the rubber cover from the gearstick area. Unclip the handbrake gaiter from the top, and peel it forwards. Remove the plastic fascia around the window switches and unscrew the switchplate. Twist it and push it into the console.

3) Remove the pin which connects the handbrake to the handbrake cable. Remove 2 screws from inside the cubby box, and 2 screws from just in front of the transfer box lever. You can now start to lift the whole binnacle out. As you do so, disconnect the cigarette lighter connection from underneath, and remove the bulb holder.

4) Lift out the foam around the gear lever area. Unscrew the bracket at the front of the area. Peel the carpet back and drill out the 13 or 14 rivets (depending on which plate you have) from the steel plate around the gear levers. Remove this upwards through the console.

5) Unscrew the existing Transfer Box shift mechanism from the steel plate. Match the plate up to the new mechanism. Depending on your plate, you may need to enlarge the aperture for the gearstick. This can be done by chain drilling and/or sawing. Leave the new mechanism separate for now.

6) Look down into the large hole you"ve just opened up, to find the CDL spigot on the top of the transfer box. It"s about a foot down, and is a threaded shaft with an oval profile at the base, in the middle of a triangle of three bolts. Undo the frontmost and left-hand bolts of the three.

7) Take the lever end of the new mechanism and force it down towards the CDL spigot. The mounting bracket will attach to the top of the transfer box using the two bolts you just removed. Screw these bolts in loosely. The tail of the cable should be running forwards.

8 ) Match up the keyed loop at the end of the cable to the CDL spigot. Make sure you have it the right way up Using your M8 Nylock nut, and a washer, bolt it down to the spigot.

9) Clunk the new gearstick from side to side to see if the mechanism engages. If you do this with the ignition on, you can see the CDL light lighting up when it"s engaged. If it needs adjusting, you can adjust the two nuts either side of the mounting bracket, on the cable which is now mounted to the top of the transfer box casing. Make sure these are tight before you go any further.

10) Line up the new lever with roughly the space it"s going to go in when you bolt the whole lot back together. You may have to do some shoving to get it in place, as the new cable will get in the way. Put the steel plate back into its hole and get a couple of rivets in to hold it in place. Force the new gearstick into its rightful place and bolt it back to the plate.

11) Rivet the plate back in. You"ll only be able to get 13 rivets in, as the front right rivet will be blocked off by the new cable mechanism. After that, refitting is the reverse of removal.
To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Baz.

[Redback]

For those who want to know which D2 has the lock in the transfer case.

If you have the diff lock stud on your unit you will only require the linkage parts, to determine this you will need to find the transfer case serial number and check it starts with either 41D or 42D.

If it starts 61D, 62D, 69D or 70D then you will need the diff lock parts to go in the transfer case which are an additional £ 175.

Baz.

[grumpybastard]

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged


Okay this is confusing me..

As i read it, this means that TC is NOT disabled even tho the light says it is?

And if this is so, does that mean you cant disable TC?

[Scouse]

and im guessing witha 2002 discoII then i need the transfer case too? where would i pick something up like that in perth? and typically would i need a mortgage extension to buy it :)

Steve


Steve

Some 2002 D2's have the mechanism - not many but I understand there are some, if you look at the attachment on the 5th post of this thread it shows you where to look and what to look for.

Who knows - you may be one of the lucky ones.He's not going to be lucky going by what was discussed last year when Steve bought the Disco:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=31570

BigJon advised in that thread that you just need the front housing, so you might get away without going to the bank :) .

[ladas]

For those who want to know which D2 has the lock in the transfer case.

If you have the diff lock stud on your unit you will only require the linkage parts, to determine this you will need to find the transfer case serial number and check it starts with either 41D or 42D.

If it starts 61D, 62D, 69D or 70D then you will need the diff lock parts to go in the transfer case which are an additional £ 175.

Baz.

Baz, am I reading this correct, to convert a non CDL transfer case to CDL is just $175.00 (obviously plus gaskets, oil and time)

Where can you buy these parts from ?

Ladas

[Redback]

Okay this is confusing me..

As i read it, this means that TC is NOT disabled even tho the light says it is?

And if this is so, does that mean you cant disable TC?

The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up.

This is the correct way it should be.

I have the AMV actuator in my D2 and it is now starting to play up, but in the time i have had it i've only ever diabled the TC to see if it was better with it off, i can say it's better if you have the TC/ABS on, the car climbs and drives through mud and sand heaps better with the TC on.

Baz.

[grumpybastard]

Baz, am I reading this correct, to convert a non CDL transfer case to CDL is just $175.00 (obviously plus gaskets, oil and time)


Not Dollars but Pounds

[Redback]

Baz, am I reading this correct, to convert a non CDL transfer case to CDL is just $175.00 (obviously plus gaskets, oil and time)

Where can you buy these parts from ?

Ladas

Ladas it's 175 GB pounds, thats around $400 AU dollars:D

[ladas]

Ladas it's 175 GB pounds, thats around $400 AU dollars:D

Okay only out by a factor of 2.4 :)

Where can I spend my 175.00 GBP ???? for this kit ?

[grumpybastard]

Okay im thinking of going down the Ritters Solution, but i'll have a chat to Glenn from Roverland fist to hear his opinion first

[5teve]

He's not going to be lucky going by what was discussed last year when Steve bought the Disco:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=31570

BigJon advised in that thread that you just need the front housing, so you might get away without going to the bank :) .

He he thanks scouse... i forgot we had that chat... i have slept since then and been so busy with work and house renovations!

will have to have a crawl under and see... got to be a worthwhile mod tho...

Thanks and apologies :)

Steve

[Redback]

Picture of the D2a actuator

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[ladas]

Okay this is confusing me..

As i read it, this means that TC is NOT disabled even tho the light says it is?

And if this is so, does that mean you cant disable TC?

Matt

As I understand it - the TC won't be diabled - and the TC light will only come on when actually active (ie really doing something)

If all the lights come on when you engage your new CDL - that indicated a fault -

Sure RedBack will correct me if I have enterpreted it incorrectly

[grumpybastard]

Matt

As I understand it - the TC won't be diabled - and the TC light will only come on when actually active (ie really doing something)

If all the lights come on when you engage your new CDL - that indicated a fault -

Sure RedBack will correct me if I have enterpreted it incorrectly

Bugger someone knows my real name, its going to be difficult to keep the GrumpyBastard persona up now :)

The above makes more sense and its only the AMV kit that TC can be disabled on

[maggsie]

Any clues? I cant find it? Must be blind :eek:
Go to the 'Miscellaneous" listing on the left side of the page.

Maggsie

[Redback]

Ladas is correct about the lights on means a fault, BUT also it is still the same as the AMV CDL, if you have the CDL ingaged and turn the motor off, this WILL disengage the TC/ABS, to stop this the ECU has to be told it has a CDL actuator fitted.

This means you'll have to take it to someone who can do this, if you don't want this too happen.

Also one thing i found was if you stall while the CDL is engaged then restart, this doesn't disable the TC/ABS, it must only happen if the ignition is turned off then back on.

OK this is the price from the UK

195 British pounds = 494.427333 Australian dollars FOR THE CDL.

plus

75 British pounds = 190.164359 Australian dollars, DELIVERY from the UK.

ATM could change if the dollar goes up or down.


If you can get it delivered cheaper, i would like to know too.

Baz.

[LoadedDisco]

Picture of the D2a actuator

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/upload/large_diff_lock.jpg

Bugger me is that all it is. Nice clean gold looking.


Bugger someone knows my real name, its going to be difficult to keep the GrumpyBastard persona up now :)

Don't worry we know your a grumpy bastard. ;)

[DaveF]

Greetings,

I have just had an original LR CDL cable and lever kit installed on my manual 01 D2. :) Peter Brown at PCB Automotive in Plympton SA imported it direct from the UK. Supplied and fitted was around $800. I am off to Robe(Little Dip Cons Park) in March to give it a whirl, from what I have read in this post it should work well. The good thing I think is that it is mechanical and it is the genuine parts. You can engage the CDL with the TC and ABS still on or disable them by switching the ignition on and off with the CDL engaged. When you do this, disengage the ABS and TC, the lights are lit on the dash until you re-engage them. The only thing that did not come with the kit was a new lever position diagram sticker. Oh well.

Cheers

DaveF

01 D2 Manual TD5, New CDL linkage, Cooper ATR's, not much else.

[grumpybastard]

Don't worry we know your a grumpy bastard.

Well thats good because i wouldn't want my world domination plans side tracked by people thinking i'm nice or anything as such.


I am off to Robe(Little Dip Cons Park) in March to give it a whirl, from what I have read in this post it should work well.

I've just come back from Robe... been back 6 days :(

This was the only beach that was hard work... but i think it really depends on what the weather has been doing to the sand, (dry and windy days )

http://www.matts-domain.com/web/pics.nsf/pictures/MARR-6XW2K4/$File/MARR-6XW2K4.jpg


EDIT

Unless of cause you drive a Pathfinder, then its all hard work

http://www.matts-domain.com/web/pics.nsf/pictures/MARR-6XW2HE/$File/MARR-6XW2HE.jpg

http://www.matts-domain.com/web/pics.nsf/pictures/MARR-6XW2HH/$File/MARR-6XW2HH.jpg

[FenianEel]

These are the bits from Ashcroft - (175 quid + post. about 90quid:eek: ) that'll give your 02 tfr case CDL.

I may be scoring a tfr case and factory CDL & levers out of a wreck (fingers crossed) for a reasonable price. If not the Ashcroft bits may be a goer....seems a cheaper option than the ridiculous quotes I've had on tfr cases with CDL's:eek: :(

[Bytemrk]

You have pretty much echoed my thoughts, i was a little disappointed with the way the D2 struggled through sand on my holiday in Robe over Xmas. Heading back that way again next year.

Only thing i wish is that it didn't take the coin tray, would prefer if i could use one of the multitude of switch blanking covers instead


the coin tray and the ash tray are interchangeable... no one smokes in mine.. so when I put in my AMV kit... I just put the coin tray in the ash tray hole and tossed that..

Oh and Pedro is right.... makes a HUGE difference in sand..:twisted:

Mark

[Redback]

I thought i'd let you guys know what i did, i bought the DIIa CDL kit from Discoparts for $555 delivered, it's only 29 pounds postage from these guys.

http://www.discoparts.com/asp/d-no.asp?ProductID=270&Process=1&CatID=6&SubCatID=0

Baz.

[Signal1]

That's a good price considering Ashcroft quoted me $825.80 delivered and the one you have ordered is the same picture they have used. Makes you wonder some times.

Are you installing yourself?

[Redback]

That's a good price considering Ashcroft quoted me $825.80 delivered and the one you have ordered is the same picture they have used. Makes you wonder some times.

Are you installing yourself?

Yes i will install it myself.

I did notice that the last time i looked at the Ashcroft site they had put their price up from 190Pounds to 245pounds:eek: + their postage is 75pounds.

I emailed Triumph Rover Spares, they have one for $650, if your interested, you could maybe negotiate with them.

Baz.

[jase]

am I missing something or wouldn't a D1 tranfer lever fit & work?
if yes there should be heaps at our freindly wreckers :D
Jase

[Redback]

Because the D1 actuator is a linkage system, it needs to be slightly modified and the lever has a differant mounting setup, i priced one from Land Vehicle spares and quoted $350 for the lot, LVS are always good with service and prices so i would think most others would be around this price or even more.

The 98/99 D1 is the closest to the D2 but like the D2 not many around in wrecking yards.

Baz.

[rjhjstr]

I bought a simple manual lever kit almost 3 years ago from Adam Skerritt of Topline Offroad Products. It's basically a bent rod with a plate that fits over the transfer box CDL actuator. Utterly simple and reliable, nothing to go wrong. Total cost with all bits required was less than $350 and it took just a couple of hours to fit.
The rods fits alongside the high/low/range lever with a nice black leather knob at the top. I was a little concerned about any noise that might be introduced into the cabin but it hasn't been too bad.

Russell

[DaveF]

Greetings,

Triumph Rover Spares in SA only do 2nd hand kits. You could try Peter Brown at PCB Land Rover. He imported an original LR kit from the UK and fitted it for me on my D2 :) . He got two sent over and may still have one on hand. His number is 08 83500110.

Cheers

DaveF

[LandyAndy]

Hi Jase
If your Td5 is auto,yes the D1/Rangie lever system works.
If manual no,the top of the gearbox on the D2 has a different linkage housing,BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!!! Then made my own!!!!
Andrew

[jwb]

Anyone put an 03 front output housing and linkage on an 02? can I fit it without dropping the transfer case?

_____________________________________
2002 Td5 Auto no cdl :(

[Stewie]

Can you please send me the attachment re: location of mechanism for CDL for the Discovery Td5 2000. I have just purchased one (today - yipee) and would like to fit the diff lock ASAP. Also do you know if you can turn on/off the ABS and TC when using the diff lock. I have read somewhere that if you engage the diff lock then start the vehicle it disables the ABS and TC but if you engage the diff lock with the engine running the they are enabled. Can you shine any light on this for me.

Ta.

Stewie.
Nubie 2000 Discovery II Td5 ES owner.

[Stewie]

Having a search i cant find anything about fitting the removed linkage for the Discovery 2, even though im sure i first read about it here somewhere.:no2:

It appears theres a few different after market products out there?

Can anyone shed more light on this one?
Can you please send me the attachment re: location of mechanism for CDL for the Discovery Td5 2000. I have just purchased one (today - yipee) and would like to fit the diff lock ASAP. Also do you know if you can turn on/off the ABS and TC when using the diff lock. I have read somewhere that if you engage the diff lock then start the vehicle it disables the ABS and TC but if you engage the diff lock with the engine running the they are enabled. Can you shine any light on this for me.

Ta.

Stewie.
Nubie 2000 Discovery II Td5 ES owner.

[Stewie]

Can you please send me the attachment re: location of mechanism for CDL for the Discovery Td5 2000. I have just purchased one (today - yipee) and would like to fit the diff lock ASAP. Also do you know if you can turn on/off the ABS and TC when using the diff lock. I have read somewhere that if you engage the diff lock then start the vehicle it disables the ABS and TC but if you engage the diff lock with the engine running the they are enabled. Can you shine any light on this for me.

stewart@itsit.com.au

Ta.

Stewie.
Nubie 2000 Discovery II Td5 ES owner.
stewart@itsit.com.au