F&R Maxidrives - what is next to break?

[Captain_Rightfoot]

We are looking at fitting diff locks to our car. Maxidrive is a little more pricey than the arb airlocker, but comes with the strengthened axles.

My question is, if we do the maxi's F&R and possibly the maxi CV's what is the next weakest link? How likely is it that we'll break something?

Our usages will be desert stuff like the Canning, and Simpson. It will certainly do a cape trip at some point too. I'm not really into extreme play for the sake of it.

Our car is a 05 td5 fender. It will likely get a TR chipping in it's near future too. :D :D

[rovercare]

Nothing;)

[PhilipA]

you will have to try hard spinning wheels on rocks to break anything but the next to go is usually the crown wheel at the back and CV joints at the front.
Regard s Philip A

[Reads90]

We are looking at fitting diff locks to our car. Maxidrive is a little more pricey than the arb airlocker, but comes with the strengthened axles.

My question is, if we do the maxi's F&R and possibly the maxi CV's what is the next weakest link? How likely is it that we'll break something?

Our usages will be desert stuff like the Canning, and Simpson. It will certainly do a cape trip at some point too. I'm not really into extreme play for the sake of it.

Our car is a 05 td5 fender. It will likely get a TR chipping in it's near future too. :D :D

Ok i have done some of the track above and more. I towed a trailer . I was trying to be talked into a set of arb's
But i did not need them and in my mind i don't think you do.
a few questions.

What size tyres do you have on , ie if you are running a mad set of 35"-38" then yeah you need a set but apart from that then i would not bother

How much of a ruff ar*e driver are you . If you are stuck in the middle of no where and you scream the tits of the car trying to get out then you will break somthing
In my mind all you need is to spend your money on a front winch, and a ground anchor (thats what we did ). With these two items they will get you out of anything that you get stuck in. Plus even with lockers and stronger shafts you will still need these at times anyway. But with standard shafts you just stop tring to drive out sooner and then don't damage anything
We got stuck on the sand dunes north of perth with the trailer on had to go forward could not go back. Used the ground anchor and winch and we were out in about 5 mins.

Thats just my pennys worth of advice

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I do take your point and I appreciate your experience. However the people I travel with do get out there a bit. They are very experienced and use LR products by choice. They have recommended I fit diff locks. All the people I will be travelling with will have at least a rear locker fitted and most F&R. They are reluctant to invite me without them.

The reason is that some places like the Simpson have LOTS of sand dunes. When it's dry it's very difficult going. Each time someone gets stuck it delays the whole party 10/15 minutes while the people are extracted and everyone gets out to have a look.

So, the more competent the vehicles involved just means you can make better progress. Last time we broke a Prado (see my threads) which threatened everyones trip. I'm hoping for better reliability with the lockers.

Here is a link to our last trip. It involved about 500k of cross country driving plus a little bit of track (the French line). It was pretty easy (I'm told) as it had rained. Next time it will almost certainly be harder.

Simpson 2005 (http://www.confluence.org/confluence.php?visitid=11044)

We hope to own the car for at least 10 years so hopefully they'll come in handy at some point. :)

[Reads90]

I do take your point and I appreciate your experience. However the people I travel with do get out there a bit. They are very experienced and use LR products by choice. They have recommended I fit diff locks. All the people I will be travelling with will have at least a rear locker fitted and most F&R. They are reluctant to invite me without them.

The reason is that some places like the Simpson have LOTS of sand dunes. When it's dry it's very difficult going. Each time someone gets stuck it delays the whole party 10/15 minutes while the people are extracted and everyone gets out to have a look.

So, the more competent the vehicles involved just means you can make better progress. Last time we broke a Prado (see my threads) which threatened everyones trip. I'm hoping for better reliability with the lockers.

Here is a link to our last trip. It involved about 500k of cross country driving plus a little bit of track (the French line). It was pretty easy (I'm told) as it had rained. Next time it will almost certainly be harder.

Simpson 2005 (http://www.confluence.org/confluence.php?visitid=11044)

We hope to own the car for at least 10 years so hopefully they'll come in handy at some point. :)


Ok on that basis i would personally do what i did in my past winch challenge defender and that was to ARB lockers in and maxi Drive shafts. I have always found that to be the best combination .
And when and if i need to put lockers into the 90 or disco we will be getting . Then i will do the same

[cartm58]

you wont need arb or maxi lockers to cross the Simpson desert

if you dont do things like climbing up rock ledges or scrabbling up muddy hills or crossing ditches you dont need them

what you do need is tyre gauge and air compressor

what might be useful is a land anchor and hand winch for the 1 in 1000 times you might get stuck anywhere

what is really useful always is snatchum strap and another 4wd

save the $3000 plus and sped it somewhere else

[Blknight.aus]

If youve got the traction control fitted you dont need the difflocks....

I dont go out to break the vehicle I use the vehicle to get me places..

I havent yet (apart from when I was trialing the trailer on the back to see whats what) been in a situation where the TC has let me down.. mud, sand, gravel, wet clay, spoon drains, technical track. Im fairly confident that the only type of ground I havent tried to cross in her is deep snow.


Big red has NEVER been so badly stuck that she couldnt work her way out by uncoupling the trailer, chucking some firm detrius in front and behind the wheels then bagging down from 15-12psi. First low, high idle or there about and gently with the clutch has always gotten her out. Im still on the original general grabbers too.

90% of the time my traction control light stays off unless Im being lazy and havent aired down appropriately or havent done a proper route reccy.


If I didnt have TC I still reckon Id have gotten through most of it. That said on the wish list for kermit is an LSD front and an LSD rear with a locker but as thats exxxy Will probabley settle for just the locker on the rear and an LSD in the front.

[CraigE]

Have to say on the dunes etc you would be unlikely to break anything, you may get bogged, but it is also a good opportunity to get everyone out of their cars for a walk around as we should do. And any way half the fun is getting bogged and recovering. Most of it depends on your finances and wants. If I had the spare cash yes I would fit front and rear maxi drive diffs, axles and the cv joints, but untill other things are done or something breaks a bit of a waste of money. In all honesty I have never had my LRs bogged so bad I could not get out under my own power. Have pulled plenty of Jap 4x4s out though.

I do take your point and I appreciate your experience. However the people I travel with do get out there a bit. They are very experienced and use LR products by choice. They have recommended I fit diff locks. All the people I will be travelling with will have at least a rear locker fitted and most F&R. They are reluctant to invite me without them.

The reason is that some places like the Simpson have LOTS of sand dunes. When it's dry it's very difficult going. Each time someone gets stuck it delays the whole party 10/15 minutes while the people are extracted and everyone gets out to have a look.

So, the more competent the vehicles involved just means you can make better progress. Last time we broke a Prado (see my threads) which threatened everyones trip. I'm hoping for better reliability with the lockers.

Here is a link to our last trip. It involved about 500k of cross country driving plus a little bit of track (the French line). It was pretty easy (I'm told) as it had rained. Next time it will almost certainly be harder.

Simpson 2005 (http://www.confluence.org/confluence.php?visitid=11044)

We hope to own the car for at least 10 years so hopefully they'll come in handy at some point. :)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Ok on that basis i would personally do what i did in my past winch challenge defender and that was to ARB lockers in and maxi Drive shafts. I have always found that to be the best combination .
And when and if i need to put lockers into the 90 or disco we will be getting . Then i will do the same
Why not Maxi lockers? The price seems to be the same? why the preference for ARB? Back to my question... what will be the next thing to break with one of these setups?

[uninformed]

i would definitely go Maxi drive.

not just giving you a locker but stronger diff centers, best axles and drive flanges. all Australian made buy a fantastic company.

you may not need lockers but they can help in soft sand and don't dig you further in than open diffs only you can do that!

i think they are a better design than arb, no compresser needed, unlock just as fast, and if needed can be disengaged via sucking on the vacuum line with your mouth.

if you can afford to treat yourself some fun go with Maxi-drive

serg

[LoadedDisco]

Get Air Lockers stick to only one size larger tyre than stock and save on the money of maxi axels and CV's and you wont break anything anyway.
Nothing wrong with Air Lockers, just make sure the power for the compressor is wired direct to the battery not the cabin fuses.

[1103.9TDI]

We do as much remote touring as possible, normally around the Cape and Gulf region, and because of my work stucture, mostly we travel alone. As such, I've tried to make my vehicle as strong and self sufficient as I can afford. I chose Maxi-Drive because of their simplicity, reliability and strength, and, of course, they are Aussie born and bred. They also tend to be fitted by specialists - unless you're game yourself!.
This is important, as a mate will attest, he had a noisy rear diff after two months of having the ARB, once we took it apart, it was obvious that the diff had not been re-installed correctly, you're average ARB store is not a differential specialist.
Maxi's are slower to engage, but the light illumenates only when the dog is locked, unlike the ARB, where the light is on with the switch. I'm not a racer, I don't mind the extra two seconds to dis/engage.
Seals are a known issue with the ARB - do a search.
From my point of view, the County is a long term project, that did not cost a great deal to buy initially, and therefore I am not reluctant to spend on quality products that will last, and it is my intention to keep the vehicle for some time. Still heaps cheaper than a base 100 series cruiser!!......:D

[Vern]

what will be the next thing to break with one of these setups?

After all the Maxi stuff is installed, generally the next weakest link will be crownwheel and pinion.

[1103.9TDI]

Yeah, side tracked, crown wheel and pinion, are next, but have heard if you order the 'export' version from Maxi-Drive, these are also included, anyone confirm?..

[noddy]

I just went thru the ARB vs Maxi.

If you consider that at some point you will need to replace your standard axles, and you will have to do the rears sooner rather than later especially if towing, the full rear maxi works out almost the same as ARB + maxi axles.

I just prefer the maxis and Mal is a lovely person to deal with.

Front I have a tru-trac and county CVs with Maxi axles.....if any of that breaks....

The other consideration is detroit rear with maxi axles down the track?

[Reads90]

Why not Maxi lockers? The price seems to be the same? why the preference for ARB? Back to my question... what will be the next thing to break with one of these setups?

well main reson is that when i last went thought this exercise was in the Uk and ARB is a hell of a lot cheaper (still bloody exspensive though, compaired to here) than Maxi drive Lockers if you can get them. That is why almost all the serious winch truck in the uk run air lockers with maxi drive shafts

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I just went thru the ARB vs Maxi.

If you consider that at some point you will need to replace your standard axles, and you will have to do the rears sooner rather than later especially if towing, the full rear maxi works out almost the same as ARB + maxi axles.

I just prefer the maxis and Mal is a lovely person to deal with.

Front I have a tru-trac and county CVs with Maxi axles.....if any of that breaks....

The other consideration is detroit rear with maxi axles down the track?
That's what I found. By the time you price the arb and then the maxi's with axles the price seemed fairly similar. :)

[DRanged]

My preferance is all Maxidrive .

Next to break will be a competition between your crown wheel & pinion and your rear tailshaft.

The above is not a guess, They are all facts based upon my own experiances.

Just remember what ever you do, you are moving the weak point somewhere else. Intelligent driving can save thousands of $$$$$$$.

Justin

[dungarover]

Maxi-Drive all the way.

I've had an ARB, good unit but lacks the entire upgraded package that a MD locker gives you. Mals is a great bloke to deal with and very helpful and instilation is not that much more than an air locker (avg. fitting charge for MD lockers are around the $500 mark, ARB fitting charge around $400 or so).

Another advantage of an MD is that there's no need for a compressor to operate, it's all engine vaccume and requires bugger-all to engage the locking dog.

Trav

[Defender200Tdi]

We are looking at fitting diff locks to our car. Maxidrive is a little more pricey than the arb airlocker, but comes with the strengthened axles.

My question is, if we do the maxi's F&R and possibly the maxi CV's what is the next weakest link? How likely is it that we'll break something?

Our usages will be desert stuff like the Canning, and Simpson. It will certainly do a cape trip at some point too. I'm not really into extreme play for the sake of it.

Our car is a 05 td5 fender. It will likely get a TR chipping in it's near future too. :D :D


It depends on what you mean by Maxi CVs. If you are referring to the AEU2522 CVs that are usually fitted with this upgrade and can be supplied by Mal, then the CVs will still be the weakest link, just not as weak as before. If you are talking about the modified CVs with a ring on the bell (ding - ha ha), or the Ashcroft CVs, then your next weak point will be the CW & P.

In the Defender rear, it'll probably be the propshaft because the Defender CW & P is stronger than that fitted to Discos and early Rangies, although with the late Defender rear you have (non salisbury), I'm not sure just how much stronger than the Disco/Rangie CW & P it is.

Paul:)

[Tusker]

Go Maxidrive all the way.

Most unlikely you'll need diff locks in the Simpson. We did it again last year with LROC, didn't engage once.

In fact I'd avoid using them. Some of the tracks twist sharply on the crest, and a difflock is harder to steer.

And if it does bog, you've got 4 wheels to dig out instead of two.

To answer you question, the difflocks can banana the rear trailing arms. They're aren't as strong as they used to be. We now carry spare arms on the LROC tuff trips.

It's rare that a CW&P breaks. And you don't have many options for the rear of an 05 Defender.

CVs can break. Getting stronger ones to work with ABS can be a hassle.

And upgrade the track rod to Maxidrive too - they don't seem to be as strong as they used to be.

Regards
Max P

[isuzurover]

Maxi-Drive for me as well.

Some mates of mine have done practically every offroad track in OZ and then some. They did all this with defenders with a maxi locker in the rear and a maxi HD front end (heavy duty axles and centre but no locker). Then never had ab driveline problem in all their trips (most trips were a few months at a time).

As to what will break next (if anything) - front ring and pinion (rear sals is indestructible - best to fit one if you have a rover rear - locker is cheaper then too), and CVs depending on type you fit. The super dooper (longfield/ashcroft) CVs will probably wear out too quickly in your application.

If you are running near std. size tyres and are sensible in how you drive and when you use the front locker, I doubt you would break anything.

[dungarover]

Get Air Lockers stick to only one size larger tyre than stock and save on the money of maxi axels and CV's and you wont break anything anyway.
Nothing wrong with Air Lockers, just make sure the power for the compressor is wired direct to the battery not the cabin fuses.

I agree. Tomo a mate of mine had this problem when his rear air locker was fitted to hios 76 Rangie. The ARB fitters wired it through the ignition fuse, not a great idea on a dodgy old Luas electrical system :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I wired mine directly to the battery on Aquarangie, never had a problem. also junked the crappy little blade fuse holder and put a big **** one in place of it :twisted: :twisted:

Trav