View Full Version : TD5 bottom rad. hose??
crump
4th February 2007, 01:51 PM
changiing coolant,(or attempting to), whats the easiest way to get that baaaastard clip off the bottom hose without having 3 wrists and eleventy elbow joints?? Ohh yeh, its a defender.
crump
4th February 2007, 02:06 PM
and also instead of removing the hose clamp on the drivers side can I just undo the coupling on the passenger side to drain the coolant, then I can ignore that hard to get at clamp alltogether.Or why cant I just remove the bottom bleed screw, all I want to do is drain, flush and refill??
stevo
4th February 2007, 02:49 PM
sorry can't help you but with the disco there is a plug on the bottom hose,when I changed the fluid on mine I drained and refilled 6 times to get rid of the green stuff also bought the water from the supermarket that has been filtered and has no trace elements in it for the final fill
George130
4th February 2007, 04:15 PM
With mine I just climb under and undo the bottom gearbox oil cooler connection and let it all drain. The bottom radiator hose is only touched if I want to take the radiator out.
crump
4th February 2007, 04:51 PM
With mine I just climb under and undo the bottom gearbox oil cooler connection and let it all drain. The bottom radiator hose is only touched if I want to take the radiator out.
need more info, what and where??
dobbo
4th February 2007, 04:56 PM
George 130 is an automatic, does the manual defender have a gearbox oil cooler?
dmdigital
4th February 2007, 05:08 PM
Well what do you know... just check RAVE and whilst the Disco Td5 has this nice little drainage plug on the bottom hose and the correct procedure for a Defender is:
1. Remove engine acoustic cover.
2. Visually check engine and cooling system for signs of coolant leaks.
3. Examine hoses for signs of cracking, distortion and security of connections.
4. Position drain tray to collect coolant.
5. Remove expansion tank filler cap.
6. Loosen clip screws securing air inlet hose to intercooler and inlet manifold, release and remove hose.
7. Release clip and disconnect bottom hose from radiator.
8. Allow cooling system to drain.
9. Disconnect bottom hose from radiator.
Of course there's no mention of the special Land Rover Tool LRT- Wrist-Dislocation-unit-001 :D :D
crump
4th February 2007, 05:42 PM
Well what do you know... just check RAVE and whilst the Disco Td5 has this nice little drainage plug on the bottom hose and the correct procedure for a Defender is:
1. Remove engine acoustic cover.
2. Visually check engine and cooling system for signs of coolant leaks.
3. Examine hoses for signs of cracking, distortion and security of connections.
4. Position drain tray to collect coolant.
5. Remove expansion tank filler cap.
6. Loosen clip screws securing air inlet hose to intercooler and inlet manifold, release and remove hose.
7. Release clip and disconnect bottom hose from radiator.
8. Allow cooling system to drain.
9. Disconnect bottom hose from radiator.
Of course there's no mention of the special Land Rover Tool LRT- Wrist-Dislocation-unit-001 :D :D
yeh, I've got RAVE but cant see that all that is required, c'mon someone must have done it.
dobbo
4th February 2007, 05:49 PM
Can you get the bottom hose off the block at all? I often wonder why manufacturers stopped designing radiators with drain plugs on the bottom. probably because of high pressures. Anyway the coolant has to come out of the bottom so persistance on that clamp.
crump
4th February 2007, 05:57 PM
Can you get the bottom hose off the block at all? I often wonder why manufacturers stopped designing radiators with drain plugs on the bottom. probably because of high pressures. Anyway the coolant has to come out of the bottom so persistance on that clamp.
but the bleed screw is already lower than the bottom outlet, just worried there may be some weird TD5 thingo that if you dont do it their way,the world ends?
Frenchie
5th February 2007, 08:13 AM
What's the procedure for refilling to avoid air in the system?
crump
5th February 2007, 11:59 AM
fill from the expansion tank til coolant comes out of the bleed hole in the top hose.
MickG
5th February 2007, 02:17 PM
I'm about to change my coolant tonight also so this thread is very timely although I have no clue what i'm doing. It's a '99 TD5 I have and am hoping this plug on the bottom of the radiator hose is easily identifyable. Also how big a bucket am I going to need to catch the contents and can I simply drain and refill with coolant. Is flushing advisable and if so how do you flush?
ALL help appreciated thanks.
Piddler
5th February 2007, 03:48 PM
Take the plastic cover off the bottom then there is a drain plug in a steel hose.
8 litres of coolact will fix. An OAT type Nulon Red is available at Supercheap.
Cheers
Piddler
crump
5th February 2007, 04:17 PM
I'm about to change my coolant tonight also so this thread is very timely although I have no clue what i'm doing. It's a '99 TD5 I have and am hoping this plug on the bottom of the radiator hose is easily identifyable. Also how big a bucket am I going to need to catch the contents and can I simply drain and refill with coolant. Is flushing advisable and if so how do you flush?
ALL help appreciated thanks.
well I'm hoping the bleed plug in the bottom hose on the drivers side will allow it to drain.You have to refill from the expansion tank and remove the bleed plug from the top hose, fill till coolant runs out of it.Supposedly you have to flush the hell out of the system in case you dont have OAT coolant plus you cant mix them regardless. But dont follow my advice as I have no idea what I'm doing either, probably be 2 cooked TD5s later in the week.:( :(
crump
5th February 2007, 06:07 PM
well I'm hoping the bleed plug in the bottom hose on the drivers side will allow it to drain.You have to refill from the expansion tank and remove the bleed plug from the top hose, fill till coolant runs out of it.Supposedly you have to flush the hell out of the system in case you dont have OAT coolant plus you cant mix them regardless. But dont follow my advice as I have no idea what I'm doing either, probably be 2 cooked TD5s later in the week.:( :(
tee hee, I quoted myself.:D If you remove the bleed screw in the bottom hose it seems to drain all the coolant, I got the poos and removed the intercooler pipe thingo and dropped the bottom hose anyway and no more coolant came out.To flush it I'm at the moment just got the hose in the expansion tank on gently, and just gona let it run for an hour, stuff filling and driving around and refilling and driving around, rerefilling and driving around and rererefilling and driving around.Going to buy some distilled water tomorrow and mix up the red cordial and fill it up and try and get rid of the multiple airlocks I know I've got coming.:mad:
MickG
6th February 2007, 07:41 AM
tee hee, I quoted myself.:D If you remove the bleed screw in the bottom hose it seems to drain all the coolant, I got the poos and removed the intercooler pipe thingo and dropped the bottom hose anyway and no more coolant came out.To flush it I'm at the moment just got the hose in the expansion tank on gently, and just gona let it run for an hour, stuff filling and driving around and refilling and driving around, rerefilling and driving around and rererefilling and driving around.Going to buy some distilled water tomorrow and mix up the red cordial and fill it up and try and get rid of the multiple airlocks I know I've got coming.:mad:
Time will tell but all seemed very straight forward once I found the plug. Dropped out the existing pink coolant then flushed with water and drained again. Then filled with water and run until warm, then dropped and replaced with coolant. Probably could have flushed a few more times but hopefully all will be okay. Put some green pre mixed coolant in which said it was fine for diesels so will see how I go.
Cheers for the help, Mick
british4wd
6th February 2007, 08:31 AM
If you have not finished the job yet throw away the spring hose clips as they are rubbish, they will let the hoses leak, use proper screw type hose clips.
Alan
weeds
6th February 2007, 09:45 AM
Put some green pre mixed coolant in which said it was fine for diesels so will see how I go.
Cheers for the help, Mick
i don't read all the td5 posts but i'm sure the general agreement is that green coolant was not suitable for td5, red only, could be wrong though
MickG
6th February 2007, 09:55 AM
i don't read all the td5 posts but i'm sure the general agreement is that green coolant was not suitable for td5, red only, could be wrong though
Not good news, says on the bottle suitable for Deisel engines. Can anyone confirm this before I do some serious damage? Bought it from Supercheap and they did have some red stuff but didn't see anything to suggest it was for TD5.
What should I be buying?
weeds
6th February 2007, 10:07 AM
the search does not seem to be working to well
have a look at this thread, george130 indicated that green coolant was one factor in the issues he was having 'i think'
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=34238
jimbo110
6th February 2007, 10:08 AM
you should buy some marked OAT (organic acid technology) but not marked "ethylene glycol":eek:
MickG
6th February 2007, 10:27 AM
you should buy some marked OAT (organic acid technology) but not marked "ethylene glycol":eek:
Well of all the kinds to choose, I chose the green ethylene glycol.............:twisted: :twisted: I assume as i have not yet run it in I will be fine to flush and try again with some OAT stuff?
Man, knew it was all going too well last night:angel:
crump
6th February 2007, 04:28 PM
you should buy some marked OAT (organic acid technology) but not marked "ethylene glycol":eek:
this is getting way too confusing, the stuff i got is 95% ethylene glycol and is also marked "Long life Organic Technology" I'm getting sick and tired of this BS, might just buy a NORMAL 4Wd.:mad: AND its RED!!
BigJon
6th February 2007, 04:39 PM
this is getting way too confusing, the stuff i got is 95% ethylene glycol and is also marked "Long life Organic Technology" I'm getting sick and tired of this BS, might just buy a NORMAL 4Wd.:mad: AND its RED!!
I am pretty sure the Castrol coolant we have here is marked as such. I will check...
BigJon
6th February 2007, 04:40 PM
Yep, also contains Denatonium Benzoate or some such thing.
Blknight.aus
6th February 2007, 04:41 PM
you mean like our one?...
crump
6th February 2007, 05:03 PM
Yep, also contains Denatonium Benzoate or some such thing.
which is probably the bittering agent. So the Castrol one you guys use is 95% Ethylene Glycol AND has Long life organic Technology (LOT) but Doesnt say (OAT). LOTS of OAT, mite goin make a bowl of Porridge, its all too hard.
George130
6th February 2007, 07:01 PM
okay guys as long as it is OAT it will be fine. If not at the best in 12 months time I can send you the contacts to a guy who can rebuild your head even though all the mechanics will tell you you need a new one.:twisted:
The mega flush advise was if you have the wrong stuff in or don't know.
My comment about how I do it was after finding the best pipe in the maze on my beast. The pip system in mine is not standard.
Sounds like you have managed to sort it anyway.
DEFENDERZOOK
6th February 2007, 07:39 PM
to flush the Td5 cooling system.....
i turned on the heater.......removed one of the heater hoses under the bonnet....
removed the drain plug off the bottom rad hose and removed the lid off the expansion tank.......
then i plugged the garden hose into the heater hose and let it flow.......and flow.....and flow......
then i put the plug back in the bottom hose and let it flow out the expansion tank......
i then removed the drain plug again......turned the hose off and allowed it all to drain.....
then repeated untill there was only clean water coming out......and drained it all again.....
then i put the drain plug back in......refitted the heater hose.....removed the top bleed plug.....and poured in 5 litres
of nulon red long life coolant with OAT from supercrap.......and topped with water........
then started and allowed to reach normal temp.....while topping up the tank......when air stopped coming from the bleed screw i closed it.....
then i let it cool and rechecked the level before going for a run......once everything was ok.....i turned the heater off.......
crump
6th February 2007, 08:53 PM
to flush the Td5 cooling system.....
i turned on the heater.......removed one of the heater hoses under the bonnet....
removed the drain plug off the bottom rad hose and removed the lid off the expansion tank.......
then i plugged the garden hose into the heater hose and let it flow.......and flow.....and flow......
then i put the plug back in the bottom hose and let it flow out the expansion tank......
i then removed the drain plug again......turned the hose off and allowed it all to drain.....
then repeated untill there was only clean water coming out......and drained it all again.....
then i put the drain plug back in......refitted the heater hose.....removed the top bleed plug.....and poured in 5 litres
of nulon red long life coolant with OAT from supercrap.......and topped with water........
then started and allowed to reach normal temp.....while topping up the tank......when air stopped coming from the bleed screw i closed it.....
then i let it cool and rechecked the level before going for a run......once everything was ok.....i turned the heater off.......
yeh, did all that, mixed with rain water(I made it rain as I needed some),still got no idea if its the right coolant, dont really care nomore, i think a holden 186 will fit.
Martin
7th February 2007, 09:42 AM
Defender zook - great info - thanks for the post. I will follow your wise advise for sure. Important point about running the heater to make sure that everything is well flushed.
DEFENDERZOOK
7th February 2007, 10:30 AM
any time guys.....i would have posted this sooner but i was away for a week.....
only just read it.....
its not a hard job......it just takes a bit of time to do it properly.....
if you were to take it in to a mechanic to have it done.......most would just rush the job to save time....
if you do it yourself you know its done.....
colrospeake
14th June 2007, 06:52 PM
how many time a year do you change the coolant . I blew a rad and replaced it for $900 . May be if i had changed the coolant more offen I could drive further As you may gather I am new at this disco td5 game
George130
14th June 2007, 06:56 PM
The OAT coolant has a 5 year life span. So change it at least every 5 years.
DanG
14th June 2007, 07:08 PM
Not sure if it will work on the Td5, but I have on previous cars run fresh water from the hose into the top of the block at low pressure. This will reverse flush the cooling system, without damaging the thermostat. Keep the water flowing until it runs clear. Have also seen attachments to plug into an air compressor to flush with pressure.
DEFENDERZOOK
29th June 2007, 09:07 PM
The OAT coolant has a 5 year life span. So change it at least every 5 years.
coolant should be changed at least every 2 years.........
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