Oil in Ecu box ???

[Defender=1st]

hey fellas,
i have noticed that i have a bit of oil in my Ecu box under the drivers seat is this hear to stop water gettin on the wires OR is this the start of oil in the injection harness ???? i bought it last year and looked under the seat for the first time and noticed oil cause i bought it second hand i wasnt sure why it was in there. i dont know if this is the start of oil in the injection harness(mainly cause i dont know wat happenes when you get oil in the injection harness:p )?? Regards Adrian

[tombraider]

It Aint the start of oil getting in...

The oil is in! And now its out too.....

Sorry... Your up for new Head Loom and a flush of the engine/body loom...

LandyAndy will no doubt speak up soon.

[DRUT]

welcome to my world. talk to landy andy and see the below thread.

Hi Wotho
Since the site problems its hard to search.
Here is one reference,but not the original post.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=33385
I will delve a little deeper and get back

[UncleHo]

G'day Defender=1st :)

It would worth checking out the thread $$$$ what a price :) by Drut, about 5 threads away from this one on this page.

[justinc]

Adrian, I can't help but suggest this could be the cause of your jerky and hesitant throttle??
As said, a 160$ AMR6103 injector loom , a rocker cover gasket and about 30 minutes labour will stop any more oil, but you'll need to get some CO contact cleaner or brake cleaner to flush the main harness. Clean the pins at the injector loom connection and the ECU plugs first, drive around for a while and clean again. then you'll probably have to do it several times more over the next months, but is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the loom.

JC

[CraigE]

Adraian,
As said have a look at related posts. There are a few of us who have been through this and the repair is not that dear or complicated. There are post by myself, LandyAndy and a few others. Despite what is being said it all can be cleaned up, but I would suggest buying an injector loom about $130 from Karcraft and flushing the engine harness as the engine harness is ridicuously priced. This would explain your surging throttle and will eventually lead to no power.
Maybe we could get a sticky and post all the related posts to this subject and the oil pump bolt issue as they are reccuring often.
On of the Mods please.

Copy of post to Drut
Drut as said, the injector harness is mainly under the rocker cover and comes out through a hole at the front of the head where it connects via a cup/barrel connector to the main engine harnes. The reason oil gets in is the o rings in the head wear and capillary action feeds oil along the wires into the cup and as the bottom half of the cup is the female plug, oil easily flows along the outside and inside of the wiring to the ecu. Unplug the ecu under your seat and put the end in a plasti bag or something to catch residue. Unplug the harness at the barrel connector and prop in position. Use brake cleaner, metho or a non plastic damaging contact cleaner (some contact cleaners will melt plastic, I know as have done it). Over a period of about 8 hrs or so keep adding more. Give it a bit to clear right out remove the bag and residue. Clean up residue with a cloth and cotton buds. Replace injector harness while all this is going on, clean up spare and get new o rings and keep as a backup. Over the next couple of days check the ecu connector at the ecu and clean up any residual mess that may occur, remnants of oil and cleaner. Should be it.
Replacing the whole engine harness is a fairly big task and should only be a last reort. Sounds like the mechanic who advised you has not a clue or wants some extra work.
Also make sure if you have a 99-2002 model you check the oil pump bolt as well as this can cost an engine. Just do a search on this site, there is plenty of info on it.

[Defender=1st]

oh ok thanks everyone

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Maybe we could get a sticky and post all the related posts to this subject and the oil pump bolt issue as they are reccuring often.
On of the Mods please.



There is a whole forum just for these types of posts

its called

COMMON THREADS

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/forumdisplay.php?f=116

funnily enough--:p

[101RRS]

Sorry for what is maybe a silly question but why is oil in the loom and then in the ECU actually a problem other than making an oily mess around the ECU.

I accept that some people have experienced problems with the running of their engines but I do not quite understand how the oil impacts the operation of the ECU - oil is generally electrically inert so it should not have any impact on the operation of the ECU (there are no moving parts). Indeed the whole ECU should in theory even continue to work if totally submerged in oil.

Is it that the oil has minute carbon particles because of engine combustion in it that make used engine oil conductive and this provides random shorts in the ECU - this is the only thing I can think of.

So can someone explain other than the mess why it is an issue.

Thanks

Garry

[CraigE]

While oil is not widely known as a conductor it will conduct enough to cause interuption in the injector firing sequence. Just ask any good engineer.

[101RRS]

While oil is not widely known as a conductor it will conduct enough to cause interuption in the injector firing sequence. Just ask any good engineer.

Thanks :) but I dunno any good engineers:( to ask - hence the question on AULRO:) .

I thought a lot of high tension insulators were oil filled because of their insulating characteristics.

Gazzz

[ladas]

Thanks :) but I dunno any good engineers:( to ask - hence the question on AULRO:) .

I thought a lot of high tension insulators were oil filled because of their insulating characteristics.

Gazzz

The oil in HT insulators is there to disepate heat.

On a few plants I have seen (large 3ph systems) they use oil as a 'resistor' to iron out peaks / spikes in power supplies- different oils have a different 'resistance' - most oils will act as a conductor to a certain degree

[ladas]

I just carried out a very basic 'test'

I poured a little Magnatec engine oil in a container, and put the negative clamp of the battery charger in one end.

I connected the poss clamp to my multi-meter poss probe, and then popped the negative probe into the oil away from the submersed clamp.

The meter read 0.20 volts.

The voltage from the battery charger is 11.90v

So the 0.20 v relates to 1.68%

Now at the moment I don't know if it's a sliding scale or a relative curve (ie as the volts in increase the volts out via the oil would increase by the same proportion or not - but I'll assume so, I'll do another test later with 24v in)

The injectors on a TD5 work on 85 volts - so 2% = 1.7 volts

1.7 volts would certainly be enough to upset most electronics in the box.

[crump]

I just carried out a very basic 'test'

I poured a little Magnatec engine oil in a container, and put the negative clamp of the battery charger in one end.

I connected the poss clamp to my multi-meter poss probe, and then popped the negative probe into the oil away from the submersed clamp.

The meter read 0.20 volts.

The voltage from the battery charger is 11.90v

So the 0.20 v relates to 1.68%

Now at the moment I don't know if it's a sliding scale or a relative curve (ie as the volts in increase the volts out via the oil would increase by the same proportion or not - but I'll assume so, I'll do another test later with 24v in)

The injectors on a TD5 work on 85 volts - so 2% = 1.7 volts

1.7 volts would certainly be enough to upset most electronics in the box.
stop mucking around a find a fix to this oil in harness problem, its important now cos I've got it.:( :p :D

[ladas]

stop mucking around a find a fix to this oil in harness problem, its important now cos I've got it.:( :p :D

Crump I have a 'kit' I have made, which consists of a project box two connector strips, and 7 strands of ceramic wire (thanks to Dave's idea)

.............however

On the other thread(s) I have asked for a voulenteer, as I don't run a TD and to date nobody has come forward - so I have no idea if it will work or not, but it should

If you want to be the guinea pig

[crump]

Crump I have a 'kit' I have made, which consists of a project box two connector strips, and 7 strands of ceramic wire (thats to Dave's idea)

.............however

On the other thread(s) I have asked for a voulenteer, as I don't run a TD and to date nobody has come forward - so I have no idea if it will work or not, but it should

If you want to be the guinee pig

can an idiot install it? I havnt got the oil in the ECU yet, but it is in the injector harness, havnt got round to following it back to the junction or whatever it is, and still trying to get my head around taking the rocker cover off, so is this kit thingo easy to fit and how will we know if it works?
Happy to be a guinea pig as long as its not going to stuff the motor or something.

[ladas]

can an idiot install it? I havnt got the oil in the ECU yet, but it is in the injector harness, havnt got round to following it back to the junction or whatever it is, and still trying to get my head around taking the rocker cover off, so is this kit thingo easy to fit and how will we know if it works?
Happy to be a guinea pig as long as its not going to stuff the motor or something.

Basically it means cutting the 7 individual wires in the injector loom about 3 inches from the connector on the rocker (external to rocker) connecting the 7 wires into 7 connections, and connection the other end of the cut wires into the opposite end of project box,

Then just mount the project box - make up a bracket, use cable ties - somewhere - trying to keep it secure.

There is a drain hole in the box, where you could fit a plastic tube, to drain the oil to a suitable place/position.

That's it

Can not see any reason why it would interfere with normal running - as the signals are 0v and 0v - 85v

Sketch (very basic) attached

[ladas]

can an idiot install it? I havnt got the oil in the ECU yet, but it is in the injector harness, havnt got round to following it back to the junction or whatever it is, and still trying to get my head around taking the rocker cover off, so is this kit thingo easy to fit and how will we know if it works?
Happy to be a guinea pig as long as its not going to stuff the motor or something.

How will you know if it works, well there may be oil on the incomming connections - but on the outgoing it should be clear, long way before it gets to the ecu

[crump]

so worst case scenario, I'd be up for a new injector loom? How are the connections made, solder, clips etc??

[ladas]

so worst case scenario, I'd be up for a new injector loom? How are the connections made, solder, clips etc??


Screw terminals - easy enough -

Worse case senario - you just solder the cable back together

[crump]

your not one of my exxes masquerading as a Landy nut trying to put me into a world full of hurt(I didnt know she was your sister) are you??
If not I'd be prepared to give it a go, still got to trace the loom back to see how far it has gone, if it hasnt reached the main loom, I'll Pm you.

[ladas]

your not one of my exxes masquerading as a Landy nut trying to put me into a world full of hurt(I didnt know she was your sister) are you??
If not I'd be prepared to give it a go, still got to trace the loom back to see how far it has gone, if it hasnt reached the main loom, I'll Pm you.

Crump, I may be a POM, but I do have taste......................

PM me with the contact detail, and I'll send the kit up, and when you are ready to fit it - call me and I can talk you through it.

[Blknight.aus]

wellll since im coming up that way...

assuming i get whereis to load and can work out where in the hell Eidsvold QLD is and wow 250km + thats outa the way a bit but my offer will stand... (but the timing will be much later)

1, I'll install ladas's kit for you.. (if you cant wait its DIY (1/5) if you know howto solder)
2, If you make a balls up of it yourself I'll have a crack at doing my mod which is the same yet different
3. If it all goes terribly wrong your no worse off I'll help out putting the new harness in for ya.. (just for playing gunie pig I'll supply some beer and a hot plate if you want to singe some meat.)

[Blknight.aus]

Is it that the oil has minute carbon particles because of engine combustion in it that make used engine oil conductive and this provides random shorts in the ECU - this is the only thing I can think of.
Garry
BANG!!!

Nailed it first go.

100% pure refined oil is an insulator its used in transformers up to metric truckloads of KVA's as coolant.

however contaminate it.... different story...

[Blknight.aus]

I just carried out a very basic 'test'

I poured a little Magnatec engine oil in a container, and put the negative clamp of the battery charger in one end.

I connected the poss clamp to my multi-meter poss probe, and then popped the negative probe into the oil away from the submersed clamp.

The meter read 0.20 volts.

The voltage from the battery charger is 11.90v

So the 0.20 v relates to 1.68%

Now at the moment I don't know if it's a sliding scale or a relative curve (ie as the volts in increase the volts out via the oil would increase by the same proportion or not - but I'll assume so, I'll do another test later with 24v in)

The injectors on a TD5 work on 85 volts - so 2% = 1.7 volts

1.7 volts would certainly be enough to upset most electronics in the box.

(i'll work out the multi thread thing propelry one day honest guys)

add this to the kettle...

from an 85v rail 2% is 1.7v if its heading to an earth over the same distance as your test rig...

how far apart do you reckon that the connection spacing is in the ECU?

not all railes in the ECU are 12v I wouldnt mind betting that some are also 5v (signal interupt for a crank angle sensor for example) if that the case thats definately enough to kill electronics if its put on in the wrong way (floating voltages can in some circumstances add together relative to earth

[crump]

wellll since im coming up that way...

assuming i get whereis to load and can work out where in the hell Eidsvold QLD is and wow 250km + thats outa the way a bit but my offer will stand... (but the timing will be much later)

1, I'll install ladas's kit for you.. (if you cant wait its DIY (1/5) if you know howto solder)
2, If you make a balls up of it yourself I'll have a crack at doing my mod which is the same yet different
3. If it all goes terribly wrong your no worse off I'll help out putting the new harness in for ya.. (just for playing gunie pig I'll supply some beer and a hot plate if you want to singe some meat.)

just to clear this in my head, if I end up with a plate of spaghetti, I'll only need a new injector harness, which I should probably have as a spare anyway, I'll see how I go, and if it all goes to hell, I'll happily take you up on your offer.:D

[MarknDeb]

Hey Dave if this all works mate ill go up for a go aswell mate plus iam a bit closer than Eidsvold :D and ill put the BBQ on, ive checked my plug at the head and there is nothing there yet. How about your Extreme Dave have you had this problem yet.

[ladas]

just to clear this in my head, if I end up with a plate of spaghetti, I'll only need a new injector harness, which I should probably have as a spare anyway, where do I get one and how much?? I'll see how I go, and if it all goes to hell, I'll happily take you up on your offer.:D

Crump, I don't think you would need a new harness - even if the worse thing from hell happened.

Wire strippers
Silver Solder
Soldering Iron
Shrink Sleveing
Hair dryer (for shrinking the shrink sleveing)
1 slab of your favourite.

[crump]

Crump, I don't think you would need a new harness - even if the worse thing from hell happened.

Wire strippers
Silver Solder
Soldering Iron
Shrink Sleveing
Hair dryer (for shrinking the shrink sleveing)
1 slab of your favourite.

ok, I've got all that, except the beer(having a liver break), cant be any worse than wiring up roof spotlights.;)

[DRUT]

Adrian, I can't help but suggest this could be the cause of your jerky and hesitant throttle??
As said, a 160$ AMR6103 injector loom , a rocker cover gasket and about 30 minutes labour will stop any more oil, but you'll need to get some CO contact cleaner or brake cleaner to flush the main harness. Clean the pins at the injector loom connection and the ECU plugs first, drive around for a while and clean again. then you'll probably have to do it several times more over the next months, but is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the loom.

JC

tell me about it:o

[stevo]

this is the mods I done to the injector harness the plug that goes into the injector I pulled apart then opened it up1614

filled it with gasket silicone and closed it up again,smeared some on the outside and put a small bead around the inside of the black part before putting it back together1615

Finally the main plug there are some holes on top of the plug what I did was stick the nozzle of the sealant tube in where the wires go and forced sealer in till it came out of the holes on top of the plug1617did this 9 months ago so far so good also no longer get the injector fault codes coming up

[ladas]

The box of tricks, for what it's worth

[CowsGoMoo]

The box of tricks, for what it's worth

Interesting gizmo!

You may want to secure the internal wires to prevent vibration. As they appear to be single core wire they will fatigue after too much vibration.

Also may want to consider bringing the external wires further inside the box and securing with a gland or something so they are not pulling on the terminals. Crimp on bootlace ferrules are good putting on the wires and screwing into the terminal blocks

Link to ferrules-
http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?obs=sObs&name=SiteStandard&No=0&N=0&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntt=bootlace&Nty=1&D=bootlace&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&callingPage=/jsp/homePage/homePage.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0810583718.1170750265@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdjaddkdhjdfhecefeceeldgondhgn.0&cacheID=auie&Nr=avl:au

[ladas]

Interesting gizmo!

You may want to secure the internal wires to prevent vibration. As they appear to be single core wire they will fatigue after too much vibration.

Also may want to consider bringing the external wires further inside the box and securing with a gland or something so they are not pulling on the terminals. Crimp on bootlace ferrules are good putting on the wires and screwing into the terminal blocks

Link to ferrules-
http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?obs=sObs&name=SiteStandard&No=0&N=0&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntt=bootlace&Nty=1&D=bootlace&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&callingPage=/jsp/homePage/homePage.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0810583718.1170750265@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdjaddkdhjdfhecefeceeldgondhgn.0&cacheID=auie&Nr=avl:au

Thanks for the input.

Yes they are single core, ceramic wires, but they are under tension (ie pulled tight) so there will/should be nill/minimal vibration.

I had planned on silver soldering the 'cut n stripped' bare end of the loom before they are screwed into the terminals.

I have always found that any crimp on terminals to be the weak link, solder on pin terminals would, im my veiw be a better option - but soldered wire ends will also sufice.

There should not be anything 'pulling' on the terminals from the external wires.

I guess a few months of road work will tell, and if Crump can fit the box and report back - we will all know.

[crump]

Thanks for the input.

Yes they are single core, ceramic wires, but they are under tension (ie pulled tight) so there will/should be nill/minimal vibration.

I had planned on silver soldering the 'cut n stripped' bare end of the loom before they are screwed into the terminals.

I have always found that any crimp on terminals to be the weak link, solder on pin terminals would, im my veiw be a better option - but soldered wire ends will also sufice.

There should not be anything 'pulling' on the terminals from the external wires.

I guess a few months of road work will tell, and if Crump can fit the box and report back - we will all know.

mmmm, the devils in the detail.

[ladas]

mmmm, the devils in the detail.
\;)
Don't worry I will supply detailed, step by step instructions;)

[DougLD]

Hi All
I have done something similar to stevo using heatsrink and gasket silicon it seems to be working at present only time will tell the pic of what I have done is at http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/3464/cat/691

Regards
Doug

[tombraider]

So when water gets into the box and shorts across the terminals/wires what happens then?

This idea isnt going to last offroad.

Vibration is going to kill it, water is going to kill it...

Theres a neater solution, I just need to find the damn connector I need. Both sealed from outside and inside...

That will fix it.

[ladas]

So when water gets into the box and shorts across the terminals/wires what happens then?

This idea isnt going to last offroad.

Vibration is going to kill it, water is going to kill it...

Theres a neater solution, I just need to find the damn connector I need. Both sealed from outside and inside...

That will fix it.

Appreciate the comments.

The 'box' will sit much higher in a Defender than the ecu, if water get's in that then you are rooted anyway.

Can't see vibration being an issue if it's mounted sympathetically.

You may be spot on, but from what I can see - I don't think so, I guess time and trials will tell.

[Cameron_Def]

Just had a loooong talk to someone in the know.

Right way...
1615

Wrong Way... is to use that box of tricks, its a good try but its really not going to help much, it will just fill with oil, but in no way solve the issue.

His sugestion is, if you wish to use the box of tricks, is fill it with Silicon...

Solution from a LR expert with factory / design heritage in LR ... get a new harness, fill the barstard with silicon, and install.

155$ solution ... the rest will just prolong the problem!

$155 is like two fuel tanks of diesel and the problem is solved!

[ladas]

Just had a loooong talk to someone in the know.

Right way...
1615

Wrong Way... is to use that box of tricks, its a good try but its really not going to help much, it will just fill with oil, but in no way solve the issue.

His sugestion is, if you wish to use the box of tricks, is fill it with Silicon...

Solution from a LR expert with factory / design heritage in LR ... get a new harness, fill the barstard with silicon, and install.

155$ solution ... the rest will just prolong the problem!

$155 is like two fuel tanks of diesel and the problem is solved!

Well again - you may be spot on -

However silicon will break down, in the oil and heat - and I wouldn't put it in any connections inside the rocker - because when it does break down it will go somewhere, wouldn't like to guess where and what it could do.

The reason I wouldn't fill the box with silicone is that I want an 'open' space to allow the oil to drop out.

The box will not fill with oil, it has a drain fitting on it, and if the oil is seperating out into the box - it's working, and any oil that does drips down the drain hole - connected to a looped hose.

Again you may be 100% correct - but after all the posts on the problems, people who have siliconed and it has failed - I just thought I would try and help with an alternative approach.

[Blknight.aus]

just to clear this in my head, if I end up with a plate of spaghetti, I'll only need a new injector harness, which I should probably have as a spare anyway, I'll see how I go, and if it all goes to hell, I'll happily take you up on your offer.:D

once youve had the oil in the harness problem you should be replacing the harness you so will be no worse off trying the mods But I would order the harness first or find out where one is on shelf... if it turns pear shaped so long as I have an inch of wire before any plug or socket and the colour coding is intact I can fix it. Iif I have to I'll template it off of big red, that'll take a day but it will be fixed.



Hey Dave if this all works mate ill go up for a go aswell mate plus iam a bit closer than Eidsvold :D and ill put the BBQ on, ive checked my plug at the head and there is nothing there yet. How about your Extreme Dave have you had this problem yet.

Nope big red is squeeky, but big red has only ever run synthetics and I check the plug once a month when I do my suspension tyre and cleanout of the back.


ok, I've got all that, except the beer(having a liver break), cant be any worse than wiring up roof spotlights.;)

Bet it can. :)


for an offer, once im on the ground while I experiment with my fix which is similar to ladas's but different anyone who already has the oil contamination problem is welcom to drop by while we experiment...

The only guarentee you get (as I'm not currently decked out for dealing with the ECU or the head harness) is that your vehicle will start and move out of my driveway. As Im sure its my turn next I'm trying to source the harness and I'll keep that onshelf for callout replacements to people who have the fix done (if you live within about 100k of me).

[Cameron_Def]

Well again - you may be spot on -

However silicon will break down, in the oil and heat - and I wouldn't put it in any connections inside the rocker - because when it does break down it will go somewhere, wouldn't like to guess where and what it could do.

The reason I wouldn't fill the box with silicone is that I want an 'open' space to allow the oil to drop out.

The box will not fill with oil, it has a drain fitting on it, and if the oil is seperating out into the box - it's working, and any oil that does drips down the drain hole - connected to a looped hose.

Again you may be 100% correct - but after all the posts on the problems, people who have siliconed and it has failed - I just thought I would try and help with an alternative approach.

Do you plan to cut the 7 wires, and insert the box under the seat ? ...

There is silicon that will not degrade .. once i do mine (very soon) I shall tell all!

[ladas]

Do you plan to cut the 7 wires, and insert the box under the seat ? ...



Nope, the box will be in the engine bay, at a convenient, and high up position.

[crump]

Well again - you may be spot on -

However silicon will break down, in the oil and heat - and I wouldn't put it in any connections inside the rocker - because when it does break down it will go somewhere, wouldn't like to guess where and what it could do.

The reason I wouldn't fill the box with silicone is that I want an 'open' space to allow the oil to drop out.

The box will not fill with oil, it has a drain fitting on it, and if the oil is seperating out into the box - it's working, and any oil that does drips down the drain hole - connected to a looped hose.

Again you may be 100% correct - but after all the posts on the problems, people who have siliconed and it has failed - I just thought I would try and help with an alternative approach.

yeh, dont do that, why dont we all sit round twiddling our thumbs waiting for the recall,:mad: FFS a new harness$130, I'm prepared to experiment.;)

[tombraider]

Nope, the box will be in the engine bay, at a convenient, and high up position.

Considering the noise, heat and moisture in the engine bay in rain/water etc..
I estimate (in fact bet) that this box causes more issues than it fixes.

Right up to complete arc of 85v and an ECU failure.

Remove Harness pins from plug... strip 10mm tin them (to seal them), heat shrink over them, no leakage then.

BTW, Crump your right...

$150.00 for 80,000kms... Why bother trying to stop it...
I'd rather not introduce a failure point.

[crump]

Considering the noise, heat and moisture in the engine bay in rain/water etc..
I estimate (in fact bet) that this box causes more issues than it fixes.

Right up to complete arc of 85v and an ECU failure.

Remove Harness pins from plug... strip 10mm tin them (to seal them), heat shrink over them, no leakage then.

BTW, Crump your right...

$150.00 for 80,000kms... Why bother trying to stop it...
I'd rather not introduce a failure point.

yeh, but i still havnt done 50000kms, and introducing a failure point, dont I already have one?

[ak]

1. Has anyone got a 03 - 04 TD5 and had this problem?

2. Has anyone replaced the harness with an all new version and had this problem come back?

[crump]

mines an 03.

[stevo]

you are right about silicone breaking down in oil,I have seen one motor stuffed because when he had it overhauled they used ORDINARY silicone that you would use for sealing glass,the stuff I used handles oil and temp.

I also had to replace the plug under the head so about 100 mm I cut the wires soldered the new plug in and used the heatshrink with the glue in it to seal up the joins.

here is a pic of the dodgy repair I did had to do this to get home from the mother inlaw as I used her garage to do the head gasket the old plug had split and would not stay in a bitch of a job to do but lasted three weeks till I got the parts needed wasn't willing to pay for a whole new harness1645

and nothing tried nothing gained that is how we learn and if something we tried doesn't work then we can say no do not try that it did not work for me