Front Enginer Oil Seal on the 2.25

[nobbydoldrums]

So I finally got round to buying a new flywheel for the sIII - by the way, really impressed with fwd's service and incredibly quick dispatch.

The old green manual suggest I put self tappers in the oil seal retaining plate instead of the rivets so that the next seal change doesn't involve removing the timing cover.

I've prepared the timing cover and removed the rivets and now need to decide whether to run a tap down the holes and put in machine bolts or find some self tappers that will do the trick. If I go the tap route it would be a hand tap only as I don't have a drill press.

Any of you series nuts remember doing this? Any tips or suggestions particularly what sort of tap to use?

[nobbydoldrums]

Update - tapped the timing cover holes and fitted m4 bolts.

Unfortunately the new pulley broke upon installation - back to the drawing board aka fwd to order anothery.

Never thought an oil seal change could be such a drama!

[UncleHo]

G'day Nobbydoldrums :)

What :eek: a NEW Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer Pully BROKE :eek: :twisted: the peices would be going straight back for credit:mad:

unless you hit it on the pulley lip, with a smear of oil they should slip on down to the key no problems and they tighten by the crank dog bolt:)

UNLESS your New Pulley was for a 2 litre motor :( if so it was for the smaller diameter crankshaft, not much smaller but enough to split the pulley on the journal.


cheers
Uncle Ho

[nobbydoldrums]

It certainly didn't slip on. Spent about 1/2 an hour with a block of wood and a hammer to tap it on. Finally pulled it into place with the starting

The pulley broke on the outer lip whilst pulling it back off (I'd missed two long bolts on the timing cover which need the pulley off to fit).

It was a bad idea put the puller on the outer lip (I'd learned my lesson with pulleys before), but I'm fairly annoyed it was such a tight fit!