Fixing Corrosion - Defender

[Jimmy]

Hey all,

I've got a bit of corrosion coming into my 2001 Defender, generally around some of the rivets and the ribbing in the roof. I'm still within my Landrover Corrosion Warranty timeframe but the vehicle has not had inspections done to date so I figrue the chances of Landrover forfilling my claim would be low.

So my question is, how does one fix up the corrosion. It dosent seem to be anything but surface rust, so I figure I could simply sand it back treat it and then re-paint. What products/treatment/methods should I use for this process, or is it generally advised against??

Further, there are a few screws along the foot wells and bolts which are showing signs of the old brown cancer as well. Does anyone know where a good place to get replacements in the Gold Coast is. I guess I would go for stainless steal ones, unless this is advised against or something. THoughts??

any info would be great.

Jimmy

[Reads90]

Hey all,

I've got a bit of corrosion coming into my 2001 Defender, generally around some of the rivets and the ribbing in the roof. I'm still within my Landrover Corrosion Warranty timeframe but the vehicle has not had inspections done to date so I figrue the chances of Landrover forfilling my claim would be low.

So my question is, how does one fix up the corrosion. It dosent seem to be anything but surface rust, so I figure I could simply sand it back treat it and then re-paint. What products/treatment/methods should I use for this process, or is it generally advised against??

any info would be great.

Jimmy


its not rust Ali does not rust. Most of the time It is oxidisation, same as you get on the bottom of the doors. Need to rub down get the white powder stuff off and then prime with etching primer (again beacuse ali and not steel) and then paint

[crump]

in an aloooominum boat hull, 50/50 brown vinegar and water stops the corrosion in its tracks(the chemical process) and then you seal with Penetrol, problem solved, cant see it would be any differnt in a Landy. In fact, hadnt thought of it till your question prompted me, did my boat a few months ago, might pay to give the bottom of the doors the vinegar treatment as a preventative.

[BigJon]

its not rust Ali does not rust. Most of the time It is oxidisation,

Rust is a term for the OXIDATION of iron. Oxidisation is not a word...:p :D

[Jimmy]

Ok assuming I can just sand back the powdery stuff and rub it back, what etching primer should I use and how can I work out the exact type of paint the Defender has and where to get it?? (2001 defedner white).

THe vinegar treatment soudns interesting to say the least...Can anyone else support this process??

Also whats Pentrol and where do you get it?

(gee I don't know much about this stuff)

cheers

[ladas]

Rust is a term for the OXIDATION of iron. Oxidisation is not a word...:p :D


The noun oxidisation has one meaning, the addition of oxygen to a compound with a loss of electrons; always occurs accompanied by reductionning:
Meaning #1 (http://www.answers.com/topic/oxidation-oxidization-oxidisation): the process of oxidizing

[ladas]

Ok assuming I can just sand back the powdery stuff and rub it back, what etching primer should I use and how can I work out the exact type of paint the Defender has and where to get it?? (2001 defedner white).

THe vinegar treatment soudns interesting to say the least...Can anyone else support this process??

Also whats Pentrol and where do you get it?

(gee I don't know much about this stuff)

cheers

Certainly support the vinegar (which is a basicically a low strength acid) and water - you can go out and buy a neutraliser - but it won't work any better than vinegar - alter the strength from 50/50 with water to 75/25 for really bad oxidisation - but just surface stuff 50/50 will do just fine.

Ali etching primer should be available from any decent paint supplier, do not use normal primer - it will just fall off. The same paint supplier will also be able to supply the colour match, you might need to give them the paint code from under the bonnet.

[crump]

Ok assuming I can just sand back the powdery stuff and rub it back, what etching primer should I use and how can I work out the exact type of paint the Defender has and where to get it?? (2001 defedner white).

THe vinegar treatment soudns interesting to say the least...Can anyone else support this process??

Also whats Pentrol and where do you get it?

(gee I don't know much about this stuff)

cheers

Why??? Dont you trust me???:D
Penetrol is some resiny thingo made from some hydrocarbony thingo that is used to seal a lot of marine equipment from metals to timber, basically an estapol that sticks and penetrates and you can paint over it. Its even supposed to stick to glass:eek: .You can get it from any boat accessory shop.I had this oxidisation problem with my Tinny and after ringing around the boaty places thats what they told me they would do if I dropped it off to them, wirebrush or such, vinegar, penetrol, paint. no problemo.

[crump]

Rust is a term for the OXIDATION of iron. Oxidisation is not a word...:p :D

and it never sleeps.:eek: (just ask Neil Young)

[Reads90]

and it never sleeps.:eek: (just ask Neil Young)


:D :D
But that is also the problem with Alfa's and the old TR7 you had to park them away from your house because they would keep you up all night with the noise of them rusting :D :D

[98-110]

Great solution Crump!
So does the vinegar/water mix work on steel as well? ie steel door frame
If you use Penetrol, then you don't need primer?
And if I'd known all this a few years ago, how good would that have been?

[EchiDna]

is this the one Crump?
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochures/5216penetrolal.pdf

or this one:
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochures/5216penetrol.pdf

??

any thoughts on using hippo liner on/in the door as corrosion protection?

[crump]

Great solution Crump!
So does the vinegar/water mix work on steel as well? ie steel door frame
If you use Penetrol, then you don't need primer?
And if I'd known all this a few years ago, how good would that have been?
dont get too excited, I'm usually wrong.
the way I understand the whole aluminium corrosion thing is thus; and I'm referring to boat hulls.
dropped sinker in cleat in hull causes abrasion to the Al surface, add salt water and you have a battery.Electrolysis occurs(otherwise your boat would have unsightly facial hair and a shocking bikini line) and that starts the Al cancer.Remove the sinker and the saltwater and the reaction keeps occurring due to exposure to oxygen, the Al feeds on itself once it starts. If you simply seal that off, for some ungodly reason it continues like some flesh eating bug. Acetic acid (vinegar) stops the reaction and neutralises whatever chemical reaction is occuring. Penetrol seals the surface(apparently for up to 10 years) and the problem is solved.My theory would be to find out all the places your Landy is likely to suffer this event and spray with vinegar then paint on the Penetrol before anything occurs and theoretically it cant happen. but Im sure one of the hundreds of metalurgists that visit this site can disprove me. There endeth the lesson.

[crump]

is this the one Crump?
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochures/5216penetrolal.pdf

or this one:
http://www.floodaustralia.net/brochures/5216penetrol.pdf

??

any thoughts on using hippo liner on/in the door as corrosion protection?

the bottom link wont open, but the top one is the stuff.The one I have isnt aluminium specific, I paint pine fishtank stands with it to waterproof them.

[BigJon]

The noun oxidisation has one meaning, the addition of oxygen to a compound with a loss of electrons; always occurs accompanied by reductionning:
Meaning #1 (http://www.answers.com/topic/oxidation-oxidization-oxidisation): the process of oxidizing

Have you got one of those American disctionarys? :D

[ladas]

Have you got one of those American disctionarys? :D

Yes I have an Amerrican, dictionary, but in those they spell it - Oxidization, and I do not like the substitution of z for s. So I just use my engineering and chemical dictionary.

[BigJon]

Ah Ha - You spotted my deliberate mistake...:blush:

[mark2]

Oxidation of alum seems to occur faster when adjacent steel is corroding - I believe this is one reason why you dont see it nearly as much on Series Rovers as most steel body parts in contact with alloy were galvanised.

I'd advise against stainless bolts as they are weaker and more expensive They can also promote rapid galvanic corrosion of adjacent aluminum and galvanised steel, depending on the type of alloy and the grade of stainless.

High tensile Cad plated, zinc plated or galvanised bolts are the go with a smear of antisieze on the threads.

[RobHay]

I would have a look at Permanent Painted Coatings products, they were originally developed for marine application, but have been taken to by the car restoration folk, they have a product for just about everything you can think of.

I am using their paints in my resto of my landy.

see : http://www.ppc.au.com/