another OAT coolant brand

[crump]

having done my coolant change recently and due to the difficulty of getting stuff up here I ended up using this stuff,
http://www.prixmax.com/meg95.html
I wasnt sure if it was the correct deal, due to it not actually saying OAT on the bottle.However, it seems to be the goods according to the site.:D Works out at about $75 for a change as opposed to the Nulon OAT at $45, I dont imagine its THAT much better:mad:, bugger is as I wasnt sure, I bought a bottle of NULON when I was in Bundy the other day intending to change it again to put my mind at rest, and now I dont need it as I will stick with this stuff to save all the flushing hassle next change.If anyone in Brissy(I'm down there a fair bit), is thinking about doing a change with the Nulon gear, let me know and you can have this bottle.

[byron]

having done my coolant change recently and due to the difficulty of getting stuff up here I ended up using this stuff,
http://www.prixmax.com/meg95.html
I wasnt sure if it was the correct deal, due to it not actually saying OAT on the bottle.However, it seems to be the goods according to the site.:D Works out at about $75 for a change as opposed to the Nulon OAT at $45, I dont imagine its THAT much better:mad:, bugger is as I wasnt sure, I bought a bottle of NULON when I was in Bundy the other day intending to change it again to put my mind at rest, and now I dont need it as I will stick with this stuff to save all the flushing hassle next change.If anyone in Brissy(I'm down there a fair bit), is thinking about doing a change with the Nulon gear, let me know and you can have this bottle.

$75.00.......:eek: :eek: :mad:

No f***in' wonder they call it "PrixMax"!!!!:D:p :p :D

# in case you don't speak French, "prix" means "price" in French.......Yes, yes, I know it also means "prize" and that's probably what they wanted it to be interpreted as........but for any French speaking person it's name can mean "maximum PRICE" just as much as "maximum PRIZE".....[one of the vaguaries of the language - it all depends on the context of the word or its position in a sentence.]

[ladas]

My local (Shepparton) Caltex Depot have quoted me $137.00 for 20 ltrs, of their OAT Extended Life stuff - this is concentrated - not diluted. Delivered to my home.

20 Ltrs will do 3 fluid changes on a DiscoII v8 or a TD5, so that works out to $45.83 per flush/change, with a little left over for top ups.

[byron]

My local (Shepparton) Caltex Depot have quoted me $137.00 for 20 ltrs, of their OAT Extended Life stuff - this is concentrated - not diluted. Delivered to my home.

20 Ltrs will do 3 fluid changes on a DiscoII v8 or a TD5, so that works out to $45.83 per flush/change, with a little left over for top ups.

Now THAT's a FAIR price!.......not a "prix max" :p

[crump]

yeh, not recomending it, just pointing out another option if you are like me, isolated.

[byron]

yeh, not recomending it, just pointing out another option if you are like me, isolated.

Yeah, I know......

.........but you're not THAT isolated, isn't that near to Bundaberg?;) .....like about 1 1/2 hrs out of there on sealed road?......or is my memory bad?:(

There's lots of different brands of OAT Type Coolant .....and Prestone make a "Universal" coolant that is supposed to be compatable with ALL coolant types.

[ladas]

Yeah, I know......

.........but you're not THAT isolated, isn't that near to Bundaberg?;) .....like about 1 1/2 hrs out of there on sealed road?......or is my memory bad?:(

There's lots of different brands of OAT Type Coolant .....and Prestone make a "Universal" coolant that is supposed to be compatable with ALL coolant types.

More like 2 1/2 hours - it's over 180 km

And don't believe it, you cannot mix coolants, however universal they state they are. There are plenty of specified OAT products around, why would you want to go against spec ???

[byron]

More like 2 1/2 hours - it's over 180 km

And don't believe it, you cannot mix coolants, however universal they state they are. There are plenty of specified OAT products around, why would you want to go against spec ???

Oh, OK......guess my memory wasn't too accurate timewise:angel: .....

.......Prestone make a big thing about their "Universality" of compatibility, but I absolutely agree with you, it's no big deal or any degree of difficulty to use the right coolant as specified!;) .......I just mentioned it, I guess I'd probably use it if I had to and there was NO OAT type available.

[crump]

2 hour drive, so thats 4 return, and a day off work, which I just had to go to the Sunny Coast to get all this gear and couldnt get the Nulon gear there or in Gympie.

[51jay]

2 hour drive, so thats 4 return, and a day off work, which I just had to go to the Sunny Coast to get all this gear and couldnt get the Nulon gear there or in Gympie.

If that is the nulon concentrate I'll be happy to take it off your hands. I use it in all our cars. Its usually readily available at any Supercheap or Repco.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

Oh, OK......guess my memory wasn't too accurate timewise:angel: .....

.......Prestone make a big thing about their "Universality" of compatibility, but I absolutely agree with you, it's no big deal or any degree of difficulty to use the right coolant as specified!;) .......I just mentioned it, I guess I'd probably use it if I had to and there was NO OAT type available.


and replace it with the correct stuff first possible chance you get........




if thats the yellow one you are talking about.......

i would only use it vehicles fitted with a hiclone.......




i think all that is is just glycol......it just basically recharges the coolant thats in your engine.......

similar thing to adding that STP oil additive to your old engine oil to try and increase the viscosity rather than change the oil........


just use the right stuff....do it once....and do it proper.......
it works out cheaper in the long run......

[dmdigital]

2 hour drive, so thats 4 return, and a day off work, which I just had to go to the Sunny Coast to get all this gear and couldnt get the Nulon gear there or in Gympie.

Crump, that's not isolated. I have to get everything in by air or sea, as freight, if it isn't available in town.

[crump]

yeh I know I'm not that badly off, but its still a PITA.:mad:

[dmdigital]

When going over the Disco yesterday I noticed my coolant level was down. After 4 years I though time to replace it then. Off to the (singular) local parts place.

No O.A.T. coolant (labeled as such). Going to have to do a bit of research cause the alternative is to get in a 20L drum of Castrol SF-O concentrate for about $200 + $50 in freight :eek:

Here's the options I have (and this is going to get some good responses:D ):
1. Use Genuine Toyota Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed for about $30/4L
2. Use Genuine Nissan Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed for about $30/4L
3. Use Caterpillar Extra Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed $92/20L

At this stage all I can tell you is all three are a red coloured coolant. Need to research some more as to suitability. Go to say the thought of putting Genuine Toyota or Nissan stuff in a Land Rover is kind of obscene.

Now you can all try and work out what remote really means :p

[crump]

i think the wrench at work thought the Cat coolant was OAT.

[dmdigital]

I've got the MSDS for Toyota and CAT so next step is to compare with a known O.A.T. coolant.

[crump]

When going over the Disco yesterday I noticed my coolant level was down. After 4 years I though time to replace it then. Off to the (singular) local parts place.

No O.A.T. coolant (labeled as such). Going to have to do a bit of research cause the alternative is to get in a 20L drum of Castrol SF-O concentrate for about $200 + $50 in freight :eek:

Here's the options I have (and this is going to get some good responses:D ):
1. Use Genuine Toyota Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed for about $30/4L
2. Use Genuine Nissan Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed for about $30/4L
3. Use Caterpillar Extra Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed $92/20L

At this stage all I can tell you is all three are a red coloured coolant. Need to research some more as to suitability. Go to say the thought of putting Genuine Toyota or Nissan stuff in a Land Rover is kind of obscene.

Now you can all try and work out what remote really means :p
my point exactly, but you obviously have regular freight services, we have ****ant little couriers who cant be bothered picking up a bottle of oil or such and getting $5 freight. They also wont let you have an acc. as they know your only going to use them twice a year, too much paperwork.Then you ring Supercheap, Autopro etc,... in Bundy and ask the nerd behind the counter have you got OAT coolant, he has no idea what your talking about and sends you the wrong stuff anyway, and then they wont take it back, had it happen too many times over the years, so yeh, I'm not as remote as some, but if this was a mine town at least the big transport companys would be including it in their run.Classic example, there is no freight link from here to the Sunny coast, period, one train a week but try and get a retailer in Brissy to send you something on rail, bus service no longer exists, the list goes on, and as I said before its a PITA, bigtime.

[crump]

I've got the MSDS for Toyota and CAT so next step is to compare with a known O.A.T. coolant.
Material Safety data sheets, doncha love em.:D

[ladas]

When going over the Disco yesterday I noticed my coolant level was down. After 4 years I though time to replace it then. Off to the (singular) local parts place.

No O.A.T. coolant (labeled as such). Going to have to do a bit of research cause the alternative is to get in a 20L drum of Castrol SF-O concentrate for about $200 + $50 in freight :eek:

Here's the options I have (and this is going to get some good responses:D ):
1. Use Genuine Toyota Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed for about $30/4L
2. Use Genuine Nissan Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed for about $30/4L
3. Use Caterpillar Extra Long Life Coolant. Comes premixed $92/20L

At this stage all I can tell you is all three are a red coloured coolant. Need to research some more as to suitability. Go to say the thought of putting Genuine Toyota or Nissan stuff in a Land Rover is kind of obscene.

Now you can all try and work out what remote really means :p

Do you have a Caltex agent/depot near you.

They do a OAT coolant, I was quoted 137.00 / 20 ltrs and it is the concentrate, not pre-mix

It's the one recommended for Caterpiller - so might be the same.

Have a look at

http://www.caltex.com.au/products_special_detail.asp?id=319

Dunno how far Darwin is, but have a look at

Northern Territory

Facility typeNameAddressTelephone/Facsimilehttp://www.caltex.com.au/assets/icon_calterm.gifCaltex Darwin TerminalDinah Beach Road
Darwin NT 0801Ph: (08) 8981 9452
Fax: (08) 8941 1767

Try these

[Robbo]

I think you will find that many dealers actually use Meg 95 as there standard Coolant for Land Rover Services.:)

[crump]

I think you will find that many dealers actually use Meg 95 as there standard Coolant for Land Rover Services.:)

good to hear, but what I drained out was blue.:eek:

[ladas]

I think you will find that many dealers actually use Meg 95 as there standard Coolant for Land Rover Services.:)

Yes the standard coolant for LR Service is an OAT coolant, and from what I can see Meg 95 isn't an OAT coolant.

Plus it's recommended for Peugeot - which is FRENCH --- pah :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

[crump]

Yes the standard coolant for LR Service is an OAT coolant, and from what I can see Meg 95 isn't an OAT coolant.

Plus it's recommended for Peugeot - which is FRENCH --- pah :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
it says here it is????
http://www.prixmax.com/meg95.html

[ladas]

it says here it is????
http://www.prixmax.com/meg95.html

Thanks Steve, hand't found that link.

I stand corrected - but the French still recommend it - pah :mad:

[dmdigital]

...$5 freight....use them twice a year...

I wish... minimum freight cost from Darwin is $45 for anything on the barge.

Use them all the time... I think it's called a "monopoly".




Dunno how far Darwin is

Way off to the west somewhere...put my signature into Google Earth. Also chemicals attract a higher freight cost than standard goods so probably at least $60 in freight.

[dmdigital]

MSDS for the Caltex ELC reads the same as the CAT ELC so I'm guessing they are the same.

Meg95 and Nulon RLL, I am assuming, are identical as the Nulon states it can be used to top up a system filled with Meg95. No MSDS for Meg95 (that I can find) and the Nulon RLL does differ to the Toyota LLC MSDS however I suspect the products are not dissimilar as both contain additional additives in minor proportions to the Caltex ELC.

What ever I do I'm going to have to flush the system and I'm up for $90+ of premix coolant. Hate paying for H2O but no other option.

[ladas]

MSDS for the Caltex ELC reads the same as the CAT ELC so I'm guessing they are the same.

Meg95 and Nulon RLL, I am assuming, are identical as the Nulon states it can be used to top up a system filled with Meg95. No MSDS for Meg95 (that I can find) and the Nulon RLL does differ to the Toyota LLC MSDS however I suspect the products are not dissimilar as both contain additional additives in minor proportions to the Caltex ELC.

What ever I do I'm going to have to flush the system and I'm up for $90+ of premix coolant. Hate paying for H2O but no other option.

Just worked out where you are - now that is a little isolated. Understand the issue with the freight a little more now ;)

Now I went through this with Crump the other day - mistakenly as I thought he was using pre-mix.

The problem is when you 'drain' the TD5 - you cannot get all the water out, - in fact you can only get about just over half out. So by topping up with 50/50 premix - will end up with you having about a 25 - 30% mix.

It's pretty much the same with the V8.

So when I do mine, I drain what I can, flush with clean water - then blow the remaining water out with either an air line (low psi) or nitrogen.

I also remove the heater hoses - and blow the heater matrix out seperately.

Obviously when you are using undiluted you can just drain, flush, then add the measured amount of undiluted - then top up with water.

I know it's a bit of a fuddle - but knowing the problems caused by poor coolants, I think it's worth the effort getting all the old stuff out.

[ladas]

The other thing is that if you don't know what coolant is in it already - it's unwise to mix them - so I would suggest a full change/flush.

[dmdigital]

Actually I do know what coolant is in it. The original LR supplied! However that said OEM means anything and any brand sometimes also its nearly 4 years old. So time to replace it!

I think I will see if CAT can get in the non-premix version of their coolant but I suspect it will be only in 20L or 205L drums (slightly more than required) the same as the premix version.

What I might do is 2 or 3 changes so that I flush the system well the first time then refill, bleed and run the car for a day before repeating. At least I'll have enough spare to do this and it will mean I will effectively remove the previous coolant over a short time frame.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

dont use premix to replace your coolant.....you cant drain all the water out from the cooling system.....
so if you refill with premix.....it will be too diluted......

you will only manage to pour in about 5 or 6 litres out of a possible 13.5 or so......

[dmdigital]

dont use premix to replace your coolant.....you cant drain all the water out from the cooling system.....
so if you refill with premix.....it will be too diluted......

you will only manage to pour in about 5 or 6 litres out of a possible 13.5 or so......

Checked today and found I can only get 20L or 205L drums of premix :mad:

So that's it, I'll just have to make do :(

[ladas]

Checked today and found I can only get 20L or 205L drums of premix :mad:

So that's it, I'll just have to make do :(

Okay so if you can only get premix, drain what you can from the system.

Run clean water through the system until the water leaving the drain is clean/clear water, leave this flushing for 15 mins.

Disconnect the heater hoses.

Drain what you can from the heater.

Reconnect one of the heater hoses. Put the cap back on the overflow/expansion tank, replace the air bleed cap - if fitted , leave the drain open, then blow compressed air down the other heater hose, in the direction of the heater, until all the water is out of the drain.

You should get a further 6 - 7 ltrs of water out.

With it all out, reconnect the heater hose, remove the cap off the exp/overflow tank, replace the drain tap/cap/hose. remove the bleed screw, then very slowly add the coolant, take you time, this almost eliminates the chance of airlocks. Put a ltr in, then wait, then another.

When full, pop the bleed screw back in, not tight, run engine, carefully remove bleed, adding addtional water until no more air comes from the bleed screw.

[dmdigital]

Okay so if you can only get premix, drain what you can from the system.

Run clean water through the system until the water leaving the drain is clean/clear water, leave this flushing for 15 mins.

Disconnect the heater hoses.

Drain what you can from the heater.

Reconnect one of the heater hoses. Put the cap back on the overflow/expansion tank, replace the air bleed cap - if fitted , leave the drain open, then blow compressed air down the other heater hose, in the direction of the heater, until all the water is out of the drain.

You should get a further 6 - 7 ltrs of water out.

With it all out, reconnect the heater hose, remove the cap off the exp/overflow tank, replace the drain tap/cap/hose. remove the bleed screw, then very slowly add the coolant, take you time, this almost eliminates the chance of airlocks. Put a ltr in, then wait, then another.

When full, pop the bleed screw back in, not tight, run engine, carefully remove bleed, adding addtional water until no more air comes from the bleed screw.

Sounds awfully like the Workshop manual instuctions (:D not quite - there's nothing about raising the overflow tank and hopping on one foot).

That's about what I was going to do and then I was also thinking of another drain and refill. Then after a short run of the engine (with the heater on), that should mix out any additional coolant and then I can drain and refill and be pretty much full of the one premix concentration.