Defender TD5 Main Light Switch melted

[3landerblue]

The main light switch seized last night, I couldn't switch the lights off without a little force. On removing the switch this morning I found that the copper switch contactor had got hot and melted itself into the white plastic pin where the three wires connect.

As I live 600km North of Adelaide I can't just nip down the road and buy a new switch. But have been quoted $364 for a genuine or $150 for a generic switch!

The dealer told me on the phone that this happened to other owners when going on bumpy terrain!!

In the meantime so that I can drive at night I am thinking if it is possible to cut the three wires from the switch and join them together and then plug back in the connector, thus giving me lights.

The switch has 3 wires I am thinking of joining all three together to get side and main lights? Until a new switch arrives

Looking at the circuit diagram

Brown wire comes from 30amp fusebox under seat
Red wire goes to Fuse 19 and 18
Blue wire goes to relay headlamp


Your thoughts please?

cheers

[tombraider]

600kms puts you where?

And yes, i think u may get away with your idea.

Have you changed the bulbs in the headlights ever?

[Reads90]

mmm well souunds a bit of a bodge but why don't you plug the wires into the fog light switch and use that for head lights at the moment . After all don't use the fog lights that much.
I mean disconect the fog lights totally and wire the wires into the switch

[3landerblue]

Thanks for the reply,
No never had a faulty bulb apart from rear gargo area

cheers

[JDNSW]

Unless they have changed, the Defender does not use a relay in the headlights. For this reason you should never use more than the original wattage bulbs unless you fit relays (which is a good idea anyway).

Four Wheel Drives (Melbourne) list your switch at $220 - but the earlier switch is only $88, and I think (but not sure) the only difference is the leads and plug, suggesting that fitting the older switch with the leads spliced could be the best bet. I am sure if you phoned them they can confirm whether this is the case.

John

[justinc]

Correct John, the early and late switches are the same, just solder on the old plug etc and away you go. The Traxide headlight relay kits/lamp upgrade kits will fix this problem, as a counties, early RR's and defenders all have no headlamp relays.

--and it has nothing to do with bumpy roads!!!!

They will however get DUSTY, and this will create heat in the contacts due to dirt on them and melt them into the plastic housing, creating a break in the circuit.

Relays and good earths are your best friends in landrover electrics.

JC

[dmdigital]

Paddocks in UK sell them for GBP32.50 (about AU$85) + postage

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Electrics/Master_lighting_switch_-_from_VA104806.html

[3landerblue]

I see what you are saying regarding no headlamp relays, thats a lot of current on a switch.

I have a copy of a Land Rover Rave CD and was looking at the circuit diagrams there is a difference between a 2002 English Defender and a 2002 Export Defender

2002 English Export Left Hand Drive
Exterior light circuit the switch goes through a headlamp relay

2002 English Right Hand Drive - No Headlamp relay

So we drive on the left but our vehicles are RHD re position of steering wheel)

cheers

[DarrenR]

I had this problem on a Series III many years ago after having the clever idea to upgrade the lights to QH. Lights were fantastic for about 3 hours, standard LR, no relay, fried the switch.

Stupid of me not to think of putting in a relay, even more stupid of LR that they still don't use a relay.

Best regards
DarrenR

[incisor]

once you are over the hump get a new switch in and also send a pm to drivesafe about his headlight cabling upgrade kits. they work really well, take the load of the switch, use heavier cable, are a very easy plug in a few cables fit a relay and away you go setup giving much more light out of your standard bulbs... and no more fried switches....

[justinc]

once you are over the hump get a new switch in and also send a pm to drivesafe about his headlight cabling upgrade kits. they work really well, take the load of the switch, use heavier cable, are a very easy plug in a few cables fit a relay and away you go setup giving much more light out of your standard bulbs... and no more fried switches....

Hi Dave, isn't Drivesafe Traxide? If so, thats who I meant.

JC

[AT]

had a similar problem. heres what i did for less then 10 bucks in total if youre up to it.

i changed me bulbs to 100watts instead of the 55 watter thats why it melted. :)

copper contacts fused into the plastic of the switch.

I drilled out the copper contacts, clean up the area a little and filled up the holes with rivets to use as contact points.

instead of connecting the wires back on the switch, i cut all the wires and stuff in a bosch relay . switch is fine all the while till now.. its been close to a year now. :)

[incisor]

Hi Dave, isn't Drivesafe Traxide? If so, thats who I meant.

JC

yep thats the fella.....

[greenextreme]

Hi All,

My '99 Extreme 110 shut down the headlights while driving night time in the outback when the car was about 12months old. The copper pins in the switch had melted into a complete failure.

Replaced the copper pins, reworked the switch mechanism and presto lights began working. Also set up a bypass switch in case the main switch failed again (which still sits atop the steering column today!).

Eventually got the auto-elec to install a $15 Bosch switch on main lights (with slightly smaller toggle to turn off / on) and no problems since. From memory the stealer wanted around $180 for a new switch.

PJ

[Dave110]

Like everyone else I've burnt out the switch and fitted a relay to solve the problem

can someone explain to me what the headlight relay the yellow one in the fuse box does?

on the rave cd page 149 connector c282

[BigJon]

600kms puts you where?



Somewhere near Glendambo?

[George130]

:mad::mad::mad:
Rego is due so mine has done it. Plastic looks cracked so don't know if the rivet trick will work. I plan to build a new switch.

[George130]

Yay it's working!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/03/62.jpghttp://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/4489/ppuser/10873
Picture insert dodn't work!

Even looks good except for the dust.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/03/62.jpg