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View Full Version : She said the Disco was pinging!!!



Discobunny
19th February 2007, 09:05 AM
Hi Guys, our disco gets used as my wifes daily driver on weekdays, last monday she commented that it was pinging a bit, I had to go away with work so had a look on Thursday evening, bad news:mad:
What she reported as pinging was valve bounce and miss fire under load. Compression test showed 0psi on cyls 4+6 :( . Pulled the head and it has blown/burnt out the gasket between 4+6.
My questions are, is this common, should I do the other bank also whilst I'm at it (I'm a lazy sod by nature;) )
The manual says to replace the head bolts, is this nescessary, and the valley cover/metal gasket, is it a one use item ot can it be re-used.
I want to get the head looked at, to make sure its not warped, any recommendations in Sydneys west??
Any other advice greatly appreciated. This is the first time I've pulled the rover V8 apart:eek:

Oh, and don't you just love a car that will run with 0 compression on 2 cyls:D the joys of V8's

p38arover
19th February 2007, 09:32 AM
Replace the valley cover gasket. Don't reuse it.

If you want to save money, at least use a new steel gasket but preferably with the newer composite gasket rather than the older style steel one.

I'd do both head gaskets. I'd certainly consider replacing the bolts with the ARP Head Stud Kit see http://www.rocketindustries.com.au or http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au

You say Sydney's west. Where abouts? I know Bob Rea does quite a few Rover heads for KLR Automotive - Bob Rea is in the same block of units at Kingswood.

Bob Rea Engine Reconditioning
U 2/ 83 Cox Ave Penrith 2750
(02) 4721 3132

If you go to Bob Rea, you could get all the other parts you need at KLR Auto in unit 5. Tel (02) 4721-3675

Ron

PhilipA
19th February 2007, 07:33 PM
Graeme Cooper will not use composite valley gaskets as they have seen several where the rubber stuff has come off the bottom.

I wonder strongly if the heads would be able to be put on /taken off with studs, because of interference with the firewall. Has anyone done this? I am particularly thinking of the LH head on my 92 Range Rover.Its hard even to get a socket on the rear bolt.

I think I would also do the other head as they also have problems with coking of the exhaust valves and at the very least a clean up would be advised.
You have to use a new valley gasket and seals , and its advisable to use new stretch bolts.
Regards Philip a

walker
19th February 2007, 11:06 PM
Yep, I will agree with Philip on the valley gasket, definately go for a tin one but use composite on the head gasket. I would also do both banks while you are at it.

I did not replace the bolts when I did mine but I guess you should if you can.....but I did use a specialist loc-tite which was recommended for the head bolts.

p38arover
20th February 2007, 06:38 AM
Graeme Cooper will not use composite valley gaskets as they have seen several where the rubber stuff has come off the bottom.

I wonder strongly if the heads would be able to be put on /taken off with studs, because of interference with the firewall. Has anyone done this? I am particularly thinking of the LH head on my 92 Range Rover.Its hard even to get a socket on the rear bolt.

Well, there are two things I've learnt. :)

Oh, I've sseen recommendations taht you don't torque down the outer row of 4 bolts too hard (only 20-25 ft. lbs.) as it can cause the heads to warp and head gasket failure. See http://www.rpiv8.com/engine-4.htm#gaskets

Later engines don't have that row of bolts.

Is it worth replacing the camshaft and lifters? Hmm, then you should do the timing chain and maybe the sprockets. :(

Ron

Discobunny
20th February 2007, 09:05 AM
Hi guys, I pulled the other head last night, and it looks perfect, the gasket is in A1 condition. Oh well, I'm buying a gasket kit anyway, which comes with 2:) . I'll also lash out and get the bolts, the thought of the RH rear bolts shearing whilst I'm torqueing them up gives me nightmares:eek:

Ron, yeah I looked at the cam lobes and they are showing a little signs of wear, not as bad as those on the RPI site, and thought, new cam, lifters, timing chain, sprockets, drop the sump and then do bearings and rings, then I thought NO:p , where does it end. It was running pretty well with good compression in the other 6 cyls, and the finance controller wants her car back, she's no so impressed with having to drive the '67 Daimler, with no power steer and no AC:D .
I'm getting the heads fully serviced, should have them back on Thursday, will let you know how I get on, thanks for the replies

isuzu110
20th February 2007, 11:42 AM
"last monday she commented that it was pinging a bit"

Wow. Wish my wife could diagnose problems like that.

p38arover
20th February 2007, 12:07 PM
"last monday she commented that it was pinging a bit"

Wow. Wish my wife could diagnose problems like that.

Tell her it's spelt "pinking". :D

Ron

Discobunny
20th February 2007, 02:30 PM
Thanks Ron, I will change my term to "pinking":)
Anyway, if, and its a big if at the moment, I was to do the cam and lifters, what else has to come off, waterpump, timing cover, which means radiator out also. From the manual, it looks like the timing cover attaches to the sump, is this correct??
I have been told that replacing a worn cam and timing gear will give significant improvement to a "tired engine":burnrubber: .

100I
25th February 2007, 09:32 PM
don't be hasty. i'd never heard anybody use the expression pinking til less than 5yrs ago. i googled it and got 1,900,000 for pinging engine vs 50,500 for pinking engine.
pinking is cute tho.

jimbo110
26th February 2007, 08:02 AM
don't be hasty. i'd never heard anybody use the expression pinking til less than 5yrs ago. i googled it and got 1,900,000 for pinging engine vs 50,500 for pinking engine.
pinking is cute tho.


pinking = english version
pinging = american version


much more yanks than poms;)

Discobunny
26th February 2007, 09:01 AM
That makes sense:D
I've always used pinging as it sound like whats happening, the engine makes a "ping' sound repeatedly.
Anyway, new cam, lifters and timing chain are in, heads are back on, inlet manifold back on. Crank pully shaft is worn, so need to replace or speedy sleeve, hopefully that will stop one of the oil leaks:)
The old cam was stuffed, inlet on 3 was really worn down:( chain was really sloppy too.