Where does the Ballast Resistor live??

[HangOver]

SO……Where does the Ballast Resistor live??

I have a CraneCams XR700 electronic ignition module that ties into the existing coil and distributor. I recently learned that it should run a Ballast Resistor, Oops.

My understanding is that the resistor sits in-line on the + side of the Coil on the + wire from the ignition, (I presume ignition anyway).

So the + cable goes : Harness --> Resistor --> Coil

(ps the electronic ignition + is attached to the same side of the coil as the + from the harness that I think I connect the resistor to).
Does this rambling sound correct?

Ta for any advice
Steve

[p38arover]

See this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=34624 (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=34624&highlight=ballast)

Ron

[LandyAndy]

Hi Steve
Maybe you dont need it???????.
Wait for more brainstrust answers first.
The aftermarket ignition wouldnt use it I wouldnt think.
Other than that call into an auto sparkie or search the crane website.
I sort of remember when I first put the 302 in my 109,it was doing weird stuff,just had to change coil types to suit.
Goodluck
Andrew

[justinc]

If this helps, I had a query regarding lumenition on a 3.5, they told me it is compatible with or without a resistor.....

JC

[LandyAndy]

Hi Justin
Pretty sure you are pushing the same barrow.As far as I know these aftermarket systems run a full 12V,no need to reduce it with a ballast resistor.Just what I understood but didnt want to get shot down in flames(or sparks for that measure).
Andrew

[Ralf_the_RR]

I have the Allison 700 which is the same as the Crane 700 (buy out).
It relies on the ballast resistor.

Now Rangies have 2 wires going to the +ve of the coil.
White/Pink & White/Purple.
The White/Purple provides 12V whilst cranking.
The White/Pink has an integrated resistance wire which drops the voltage (9v I think), and is used for normal operation.

If you put 12V (continuously) into a non ballast coil, it will burn out.

[lokka]

Like you said steve wire from ignition switch 12v to ballast resistor then from resistor to coil then run another wire from the key wire at your starter motor to the coil bypassing the ballast this is to give the coil a burst of 12v at cranking for an easier start once the motor is going and key in run pos the 12v from the starter drops out and the feed through the resistor takes over .

This method will work fine without hassels with a resistor wire from the ignition and will prolong the life of ya coil if down the track you get a real 12v coil just remove the resistor and the extra wire from the starter

cheers

Chris

[Bradtot]

Steve get a multi meter and measure your voltage to the coil on the positive side while it is running.
12v means no ballast 8-9v means you have ballast wire in the original loom as per what Ralph the rangie has said
My 82 still has the ballast insitu with optospark
never had an issue
Brad

[DEFENDERZOOK]

SO……Where does the Ballast Resistor live??





isnt it the one behind the glovebox.....?
or was that for the fan.....?



how old is the rangie......?

[HangOver]

Hi All
Sorry about the lack of reply I had the top off engine in the Falcon tonight trying to fish out bits of plastic filter/breather that had shattered and were bouncing around inside the rocker cover. :mad:
Bloody ford honestly wish I had never bought it. < rant over.

The good vehicle I own, (1981 Rangie) has an XR700 ignition.
I called the only?? supplier in WA, (that I could find) in Welshpool.
They said that the 3000 has a built in resistor so you can use anything. The xr700 that I have needs a ballast resistor and should not be run at 12v.

They said I should fit a ballast resistor and one of the coils that they recommend, (read supply) $80 hmmm I think not !

I called back later and spoke to someone else I got the same story but suggested I can use any coil that requires a resistor. I am running a GT40r that requires a resistor so I'm OK there. I got a resistor today for $8.

I just wanted to ensure that it does sit in-line on the + side of the coil just before it attaches to the coil.
And.. the ignition unit connects to the same side of the coil, (on the same spade connector).

I think it should but you know what assumptions do !

[PhilipA]

I dunno.
I think you are talking about 2 different things.
A resistor coil needs 7-9 volts for normal running. They always have a second wire so that they get 12 volts , or what is left while the starter is running.
Whether you run your ignition amplifier on 12 volts or 7-9 is a different issue. Most ignitions use 12 volts. Its irrelevant whether you take this from the coil input if it is 12 volts or somewhere else.

The trigger for the coil goes from the ignitioon to the NEGATIVE side of the coil , so as long as the coil load specs are correct, this has no direct connection with the POWER input of the ignition module.

I can tell you 100% that an 81 Range Rover has a RESISTOR WIRE from the ignition switch. This is the same as a ballast resisitor. YOU DO NOT NEED ANOTHER BALLAST RESISTOR for the coil.
The power to the ignition is a different issue. if you find 7-9 volts at the coil and the ignition specifies 7-9 volts INPUT then by all means take it from the coil input. If the spec is for 7-9 volts input which I doubt, then you must place a ballast resistor on the input of the ignition if you take the power from somehwhere else.
I am no electronic expert but I am pretty sure that with the very small load of a transistor ignition, the resistor will not lower the voltage as it needs a load. I am sure someone else will correct me if I am wrong on this point.
Regards Philip A