Series IIA Electrical Problem

[btm]

G'Day all,

I wonder if anyone can help me with the next problem I have with my truck. When I turned the ignition key on saturday there was nothing!!! This is what I have done so far...

a) Battery is brand new (and full of charge) - terminals tight!
b) Starter solenoid is brand new - installed over weekend
c) Power is making it to the voltage regulator - from solenoid
d) Power is making it to the fuse box
c) There is no power at the ignition switch

I have pulled the dash out and checked the ignition switch but don't have any live power reaching the switch??? Should there be a permanent live wire at the switch and if there should be 'WHERE THE BLOODY HELL DOES IT COME FROM'???? All the wires from the ignition switch disappear into the "40 year old wiring loom of death" and I cant trace the wires back to their source

I have power at my 'inspection plug' on the dash so I could get power for the ignition switch from there but does it need to go through a fuse??

Last question, I have a 'black out' switch on the dash (which has been playing up for the 18 years I've been driving this vehicle), would the ignition power line go through it or is it only concerned with lights?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Tim
Darwin NT

[JDNSW]

Assuming that it is an original negative earth, and assuming that the wiring is original........

Feed to the ignition switch is via a white/blue lead from the A1 terminal of the regulator. The sockets feed from the A terminal. Neither is fused - hardly anything IS on the 2a. Your problem is most likely bad connection on the A1 or A2 terminals of the regulator or an internal fault in the regulator. A broken wire is possible, but fairly unlikely - but poor connections due to corrosion are very likely. Try just pulling the connectors off the regulator and pushing them back on.

John

[btm]

G'Day John,

Yes it is neg earth.

I checked the plugs on the bottom of what I thought was the regulator (housed in silver box with what looks like three brass coils in it - under the bonnet up high on fire wall) It has two leads coming off it, 1 goes down to the ignition solenoid the other I'm not sure, but when I remove it the power to my inspection sockets and map light is broken! So I thought this must feed the ignition switch as well... but there is no power at the switch. Can I just run a power lead from the battery straight to the ignition switch for now? Then get it to an auto electrician?

thanks
tim

[JDNSW]

G'Day John,

Yes it is neg earth.

I checked the plugs on the bottom of what I thought was the regulator (housed in silver box with what looks like three brass coils in it - under the bonnet up high on fire wall) It has two leads coming off it, 1 goes down to the ignition solenoid the other I'm not sure, but when I remove it the power to my inspection sockets and map light is broken! So I thought this must feed the ignition switch as well... but there is no power at the switch. Can I just run a power lead from the battery straight to the ignition switch for now? Then get it to an auto electrician?

thanks
tim

Yes, but better run from the solenoid, or, since you have power at the inspection light sockets, simply run a lead from there - if you disconnect the existing lead from the ignition switch make sure you insulate it - it may not be alive now, but it could be on the next bump, and as I said, it is unfused. It does sound a bit as if the wiring is not strictly standard (hardly surprising) and also as if the wiring in general could do with a thorough going over. The best thing to do would be as suggested, a new loom, but these are a bit pricey!

John