View Full Version : Clutch slave cylinder prob
Wortho
17th March 2007, 03:56 PM
Hi guys i'm replaceing my slave cylinder cause my clutch peddle went to the floor yesterday and when i pulled the old one off the pushrod came out as well, it has a little plastic clip on the end and i can't feel in the bellhousing far enough to find were it should go back into. What do i do now? do i just put the push rod into the new cylinder and bolt it in the hole or am i in trouble now?
Please help.
Reads90
17th March 2007, 04:11 PM
Time to pratise being a gynecologists :D :D
You need to get the black clip back on to the fork in the bell housing. Or it will fall of again and sit in the bottom of the bell housing and then you will have to take the engine apart from the gearbox to get to it.
Wortho
17th March 2007, 04:18 PM
just noticed that the piston isn't in the old cylinder would it still be in there some where, it didn't come out.
Reads90
17th March 2007, 04:27 PM
just noticed that the piston isn't in the old cylinder would it still be in there some where, it didn't come out.
mmmm should have done. Make sure its not on the floor under you truck. The rod you have pulled out usual comes out because it is stuck to the piston. As it is the piston that pushes the rod
Or are you sure its not just right down the cylinder
Wortho
17th March 2007, 04:47 PM
Nope not there the piston is not on the floor nor the cylinder.
Reads90
17th March 2007, 04:53 PM
Nope not there the piston is not on the floor nor the cylinder.
MMMMM,,,
what does the inside of the cylinder look like
Wortho
17th March 2007, 05:00 PM
Crap, i'm starting to get worried i can't feel the clutch fork either, i may have to pull the gearbox out, don't really want to though.
UncleHo
17th March 2007, 05:10 PM
G'day Wortho :)
Sounds like you have to shift the gearbox back to retrieve the piston, unless you or someone with small arms can get in through the slave cylinder hole with a flexi-magnet and retrieve it:(
if you have to move the G'box back you can then check the clutch and pressure plate and also fit a new $2.50 plactic clip :mad: that retains the clutch push rod;)
At that is the price of it from the Mob in Melbourne:)
cheers
Blknight.aus
17th March 2007, 07:16 PM
pity its not a series youd only have to take the shifter off and the thrust bearing inpection plate to pull it out...
theres a way of putting the plastic clip on without seperating the houseings but since your going to have to pull it apart anyway to make sure the piston isnt in the clutch area it doesnt matter.
if you cant feel the clutch fork (use a 9 inch long screwdriver to poke around) resitance then you might have jammed your thrust bearing which will allow the fork to stay back and let the rod fall out of position.
If your certain that you have all your pieces, and the clutch is working ok you need apeice of 19 (3/4 inch) garden hose and some strong wire/a piece of 13mm pipe to put the clip on. heres how.
Prepping the tools.
grab about a 2 inch piece of 19mm garden hose and at one end cut it leaving a T shape that will thread over the ring end of the clip and force the 2 arms apart wide enough to get over the clutch fork. The clip should sit flush against the rest of the hose. you will also need a bout a 4 inch length of pipe (copper pipe is perfect).
getting it ready
Put the plastic clip in place and slide the rod down so its in the right position and the other end is down the piece of hose. Put the piece of copper pipe over the push rod. depending on your nimbility factor removing the starter motor and disconnecting the exhaust will help. (these need to be done to remove engine/gearbox anyway)
getting it in.
Push the whole lot in place using the hose as a guide to get the clip started over the fork and then using a piece of 13mm pipe slide that up the hose, over the push rod and push the clip and the push rod forwards while you twist the hose through 90-180 degrees while maintaining inwards pressure on the pipe. IF you do it just right the hose will twist out of the armsand they will grab onto the fork or slide over behind it where you need them.
Best of luck
incisor
17th March 2007, 08:35 PM
:eek: :wacko: :spudnikwowsers:
Bush65
18th March 2007, 08:35 AM
From what you have said, your clutch fork may have worn through at the rod seat (a known problem). The forks are only pressed metal.
If it did wear through, the travel of the piston in the slave cyl would not be limited and could blow out.
If you have to replace the fork, consider welding a thick washer on the other side of the seat for the rod, to build up the thickness. A common mod for these clutch forks.
I think (not sure) I may have a spare clutch fork. So yell out if you need one.
Good luck
defenderbilby
18th March 2007, 11:35 AM
I have just gone through this problem with my 110 clutch. I had the wrong clutch release bearing and the push rod fell out into the housing and the piston popped out as well.
Only way in was to pull the gearbox back supporting gearbox with engine hoist through cab floor. Someone had a good picture of this setup. With the gearbox far enough back I put a block of wood between the engine and gearbox just incase it snapped back and took my hand off.
This means you can get in there and inspect the fork as mentioned and then a good tip mentioned again on this forum to cable tie the rod onto the push fork.
Have a look at the thread 'help needed on clutch for 110' 15th Feb.
And yes its a pain in the rear end moving the gearbox. I ended up having to do it twice as I had the wrong part!:angrylock:
Wortho
18th March 2007, 12:06 PM
Well if i'm going in i'll do it all while i'm there, Clutch(300k old), fork, oil seals, flywheel, bearings. Hopefully i won't have to go back in for another 300k.
Anything else i should change while i'm there.
Bush65
18th March 2007, 08:12 PM
I don't know what seals you meant, but I would replace the rear crankshaft seal (make sure you read the instructions before taking the seal out of the packet.
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