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ladas
30th March 2007, 02:14 PM
Firstly this is not a tutorial - it's a project, why it's not a tutorial - well firstly I have never done this before, and I am not sure if I know what I am doing, secondly - it could all go horribly wrong.

...............but I have started anyway

The project is to change the front housing on a LT230 SE transfer case, with one that has the CDL mechanism - my 2002 Disco doesn't - and whilst I may never need it again (I really could have used it last Xmas) it's nice to know it will be there if I do.

The project started in ernest today when the 2nd hand front housing arrived today from Alice Springs (thanks Jon) - complete with a faily heft covering of the red stuff.

The pictures show what it was like when it arrived, and what it looks like after about 2 hours elbow grease.

I will keep updating progress, together with any "balls up" I make, then if somebody is contemplating doing the same thing, they will know what to avoid.

BigJon
30th March 2007, 02:29 PM
That has cleaned up very well! I have an entire Rangie here you can clean like that if you want to...:D

I will follow this thread with interest, we have a few of those non CDL Discoverys here in Alice.

D110V8D
30th March 2007, 03:18 PM
Soooo....ya just couldn't wait eh??;) :D :D :D

You'll be right....I hope.:p ;)

hiline
30th March 2007, 03:29 PM
Soooo....ya just couldn't wait eh??;) :D :D :D

You'll be right....I hope.:p ;)

he's a eager beaver :D :D ;)

not to mention all the free beer and food we now miss out on

ladas
30th March 2007, 04:28 PM
he's a eager beaver :D :D ;)

not to mention all the free beer and food we now miss out on

Oh no, the free food and beer will still be on, that part is for when I have to remove, modify, and refit the whole transfer case.

I really don't think I can do that bit (remove/replace) on my own.

Bush65
30th March 2007, 08:32 PM
T/case is not too difficult on your own.

Pull the brake drum to reduce weight.

Jack under the gearbox, remove gearbox mounts and lower rear down before pulling the t/case. Watch everywhere for interference/problems while lowering.

Re-fit t/case with the input gear out. Fit input gear after t/case is bolted up to the gearbox.

ladas
1st April 2007, 11:25 AM
Well errrrrrr!!!, it doesn't seem like the electric motor is the way to go, I fitted it all up this morning - but the motor is just too strong, and takes the actautor passed the detent ball groove.

So back to the drawing board on that part, so it looks like a mechanical linkage and a bit of bracketing.

ladas
1st April 2007, 04:48 PM
I have now made up the support plate to assist in removal and replacement of the TC

Pictures included.

hiline
2nd April 2007, 03:14 AM
Oh no, the free food and beer will still be on, that part is for when I have to remove, modify, and refit the whole transfer case.

I really don't think I can do that bit (remove/replace) on my own.


:D :D :D lucky for me then ;)

hey cock

Disco300Tdi
2nd April 2007, 10:32 AM
It comes to those that wait.....:)

ladas
2nd April 2007, 06:37 PM
Well despite having to delay todays progress due to the drivers electric window buggered up - the spot welds on the regulator gave out - so spent most of the day doing a temporary repair on that ...............:mad:

However after that I got the bits I needed for the CDL actuator, yep despite the wise cracks - two bike brake cables - a little bit of a bracketing.............I also bought the adjustment ferules, and the cable retainers from the bike shop.

The actuator only needs 3 lbs of pressure to activate it, quite a lot less that the test I did on my sons bike, so the theory is that it should work.

I then rigged up - a temporary 'other end' and low and behold it works like a dream, or as a cdl actuator is meant to.

Still have to finalise the 'other end' - but I am looking at a converting a nice auto T bar, again with a bit of bracketing.

Pictures attached.

abaddonxi
2nd April 2007, 10:11 PM
Nice bit of work.

Just out of curiosity and ignorance:D, why not use a hood/heater rigid wire? I would have thought that pressure needed to switch the cdl is similar to that of the heater vent.

Cheers
Simon

disco_ute
3rd April 2007, 08:57 AM
ladas i have an original High Low cable from a 2000 TD5 in my garage that i no longer need PM me if you are interested. Also the cable they Use for CDl are monster thick! maybe 3 - 4mm in diameter. You will notice sometimes the CDL with be come hard to take out if any windup has occurred.

Mick

ladas
3rd April 2007, 09:11 AM
;)
ladas i have an original High Low cable from a 2000 TD5 in my garage that i no longer need PM me if you are interested. Also the cable they Use for CDl are monster thick! maybe 3 - 4mm in diameter. You will notice sometimes the CDL with be come hard to take out if any windup has occurred.

Mick

PM sent;)

WildOne
10th April 2007, 07:53 AM
Ladas,

How's the CDL conversion going, hav'nt heard anything new in awhile??

ladas
12th April 2007, 11:59 AM
Ladas,

How's the CDL conversion going, hav'nt heard anything new in awhile??

Slowly, what with the Easter break and all.:(

Mick sent me his 'spare' solid actuator cable - which arrived yesterday, and I am just making the mounting bracket to hold the 'cable' at the TC end, which is quiye straight forward and should be finished sometime tomorrow.:D

Just still having a quandry about where and how to mount the other end without making it all look a bit naff.:p

Picture of mounting plate - tomorrow - hopefully

ladas
16th April 2007, 08:18 AM
Well after a bit of faffing around, I abandoned the 'bicycle cable' route, I was supplied with a rigid actuator cable (not sure if it's the hi/lo or the diff lock cable - but it doesn't really matter)

I made a plate up, which still needs refining, rounding off etc.,, but it works.

I still have to work out the bit that goes inside the car. I am toying with either a push/pull or a pivoted lever.

Pics of latest bits.

dungarover
16th April 2007, 04:49 PM
I always say you're not wheeling hard enough if you aren't puting the CDL in :angel:

Trav

WildOne
15th May 2007, 03:12 PM
G'day Ladas,
This is a conversion i'm gonna be doing shortly, i've found a front output housing for $250. Does that sound right? What did you pay for yours?
How's your conversion going? No news in a long time, i'm watching with interest as i'm hoping you can offer me soom good pointers when i convert mine??
If you're not gonna install your front output housing i'll take it at a good price ;)

WildOne
15th May 2007, 06:21 PM
G'day Ladas,
This is a conversion i'm gonna be doing shortly, i've found a front output housing for $250. Does that sound right? What did you pay for yours?
How's your conversion going? No news in a long time, i'm watching with interest as i'm hoping you can offer me soom good pointers when i convert mine??
If you're not gonna install your front output housing i'll take it at a good price :wasntme:

ladas
15th May 2007, 06:30 PM
G'day Ladas,
This is a conversion i'm gonna be doing shortly, i've found a front output housing for $250. Does that sound right? What did you pay for yours?
How's your conversion going? No news in a long time, i'm watching with interest as i'm hoping you can offer me soom good pointers when i convert mine??
If you're not gonna install your front output housing i'll take it at a good price :wasntme:

Sorry Phill, but I have rooted my shoulder so most things are going to be on hold for a while until after I have an op.

You'll most probably beat me to it.

The front diff housing you bought - does it have a location for the high/low selector switch. The one I have - didn't - so I had to get it drilled and tapped. I just hope the positioning is spot on for the switch.

Otherwise ??????????????????

I still have another front housing - but again this does not have the tapping for the high/low switch, but if you want to make me an offer for it - send me a PM

With the D2 you must have the switch ------ it works in conjuction with the hill desent etc.,